diy solar

diy solar

Best LifePo4 charge controller settings known to man for Maximum Service life and Minimum battery stress!!! 5,000-10,000+ cycles?

Come on, I really believe that marine builds warrant more rigor than rv mobile and stationary builds, mainly because getting help when things break is usually harder. I believe @Goboatingnow is participating in good faith.

Dogmatic rejection and ridicule in response to design goals that happen to be difficult to implement with existing hardware options feels excessively regressive to me.

If someone wants to keep it simple, more power to them! It seems silly to insist that simple also implies optimal performance. Maybe optimal ease for operator/designer.

I been driving an electric car for three years now, and the BMS is very involved in the operation and protection and optimal charging and discharging, etc. and it's awesome.

Please stop ridiculing people who want to understand how to minimize degradation because a simple compromise is what others choose.

Don't care about 0.05 C trickle charging causing a small amount of extra wear? Ok! Don't engineer to address it. But arguing against the theory seems silly to me.

Cell Manufacturers themselves state to terminate charging after reaching eg 0.05C at end of CV phase. I have not actually seen a data sheet that specifically addresses low C rate charging after end of charge as being discussed here.

Please keep it civil! It is ok for different people in different situations to optimize for different goals and implement different solutions in hardware and software.

It is helpful to have a simple set of advice for newbies, and I still earnestly believe there is value in allowing people who are not averse to rigor to discuss the finer points.

Thank you all for the perspectives! I appreciate you all.
 
Well @toms, maybe he will be at least a little bit better at providing some justification (links, not just telling us we are stupid). I want to give him the chance though. I still believe (really, I do) that your long-baseline history using LiFePO4 should be useful to the rest of us. I'm just waiting for you to give us some useful (and with some backup) reasoning.
I tried my best to find references that closely aligned with information i received directly from the manufacturer of my cells, and a senior chemist at LGChem.
Sad this thread turned into something complicated when actually maintaining LFE is so simple.

Anyways I had to tear down my pack because I moved and haven't set it back up yet. Before I moved I tested the capacity of my pack which had been floating at 3.4 volts per cell for 8 months. I use the pack to power a UPS. Only lost a few ah's capacity.


It would be nice to see more people post their actual experiences rather than posting a bunch of research papers. Not knocking it but personally I am much more interested in real usage.
My “real life” experiment began in 2011. It is still ongoing so i can’t post conclusive evidence.

What i have found out via comparison of how i treated my cells vs others that have failed in the meantime is that charging your cell when it is full causes it to fail early.

As i have said plenty of times - there is absolutely no reason to ever charge a cell when it us full, and i wouldn’t recommend it.

Others think it’s a great idea, and have no long term experience of the effects.

My compromise is to “float” my systems at 54V.
 
Come on, I really believe that marine builds warrant more rigor than rv mobile and stationary builds, mainly because getting help when things break is usually harder. I believe @Goboatingnow is participating in good faith.

Dogmatic rejection and ridicule in response to design goals that happen to be difficult to implement with existing hardware options feels excessively regressive to me.

If someone wants to keep it simple, more power to them! It seems silly to insist that simple also implies optimal performance. Maybe optimal ease for operator/designer.

I been driving an electric car for three years now, and the BMS is very involved in the operation and protection and optimal charging and discharging, etc. and it's awesome.

Please stop ridiculing people who want to understand how to minimize degradation because a simple compromise is what others choose.

Don't care about 0.05 C trickle charging causing a small amount of extra wear? Ok! Don't engineer to address it. But arguing against the theory seems silly to me.

Cell Manufacturers themselves state to terminate charging after reaching eg 0.05C at end of CV phase. I have not actually seen a data sheet that specifically addresses low C rate charging after end of charge as being discussed here.

Please keep it civil! It is ok for different people in different situations to optimize for different goals and implement different solutions in hardware and software.

It is helpful to have a simple set of advice for newbies, and I still earnestly believe there is value in allowing people who are not averse to rigor to discuss the finer points.

Thank you all for the perspectives! I appreciate you all.
@curiouscarbon, I have to say that you seem to be one of the kindest people on this board, and I don't just mean in this thread. I really appreciate your "glass is 99% full" attitude. No kidding. Thanks for being you.

Here's the reason that so much of what @Goboatingnow has posted bothers me. He's relatively new here (not an issue by itself), does not even have an operational system (only a "test" system, which - again - by itself is not a problem), but he has been making statements that go against what nearly everyone here with real systems believes, and he is doing it in a thread that could easily be a good source of information for new users. He says that "DoD ( depth of discharge) is the major cause of in-cycle degradation, that’s clearly set out in all the scientific papers" which makes LiFePO4 sound no better than Lead Acid, and none of us believe that. I posted one scientific paper that specifically says that DoD is a factor, but is much less significant than calendar time and temperature. He then posts a different scientific paper which doesn't even support his assertion.

Many of us use a float voltage, below the settled end of charge, to power loads from solar while there is solar. Because it is below the settle voltage after charge, the battery actually discharges a bit before the solar float takes over for the load. According to my BMS and my Victron Shunt, the battery SoC for the rest of the sunny day stays at around 98%. To say that this is a terrible thing and will ruin the cells, without providing a shred of evidence, is irresponsible. If he said something like "float should only be used at a point where the cells are not at 100% SoC" that would be fine. But nope, he just says float is terrible and that if you want to use it you should not use LiFePO4 (actually, he just says Lithium).

I've built a sailboat system, and I used the same knowledge and rules I used for our cabin. Although the boat is currently docked a thousand miles away, I can monitor it with VRM (Victron Remote Management), and I can see that the battery sits at 98% or 99% SoC much of the day. I'm not worried.

Someone reading his posts that go unchallenged can make some really bad decisions. And that can be especially unfortunate in a thread like this one. If he can somehow prove that the hundreds (thousands?) of us here are wrong, I'll be happy to accept it.
 
MPPT charger with float voltage configured low enough that some discharge happens, I use also, and enjoy the "power assist" "feature" it enables. And 100% agree that setting float to eg 3.35 Volt per cell or something will allow some discharging to avoid the dreaded High SOC SEI Degradation being discussed.

Temperature of LFP cells, specifically exceeding 30-35 celsius, is my personal "number one avoid" thing besides exceeding or holding at near 3.65V for extended time.

Especially charging at or above 30 Celsius.

I too feel that the effect of low C rate charging may be overemphasized, and seek to better understand it. It is still relatively low priority to me.

Maximizing solar yield is more important to me than avoiding low C rate charging, as long as time spent at or above 3.45 Volt per cell is generally avoided.

Thanks again!
 
Shout out to @Philtao for uploading this resource regarding degradation of cells with regard to cell material temperature:


I think cell temperature related to "calendar aging" is very important. More significant than Low C rate charging (at mid-SOC) is my guess, but nothing to substantiate this.

High C rate charging of LFP at > 35 celsius seems to be a huge killer of these cells.

High Temperature Cells, and Charging High Temperature Cell, would be my personal two big no-nos to caution newcomers.
 
something like "float should only be used at a point where the cells are not at 100% SoC" that would be fine
?? great takeaway
I'd add the well-known risk of charging near or below 0°C.
absolutely! BMS should always disconnect at or near 0 Celsius, "near" due to common systematic error in measurement location etc.

ideally charger should stop trying when it becomes that cold too, but many chargers are not able to receive a message from BMS saying "too cold! no charging now!" and act on it. that, or, there is not an easy standard to transmit that message/signal.
 
MPPT charger with float voltage configured low enough that some discharge happens, I use also, and enjoy the "power assist" "feature" it enables. And 100% agree that setting float to eg 3.35 Volt per cell or something will allow some discharging to avoid the dreaded High SOC SEI Degradation being discussed.

Temperature of LFP cells, specifically exceeding 30-35 celsius, is my personal "number one avoid" thing besides exceeding or holding at near 3.65V for extended time.

Especially charging at or above 30 Celsius.

I too feel that the effect of low C rate charging may be overemphasized, and seek to better understand it. It is still relatively low priority to me.

Maximizing solar yield is more important to me than avoiding low C rate charging, as long as time spent at or above 3.45 Volt per cell is generally avoided.

Thanks again!
One of the things that bother me or makes me think "no :poop:" is when reading a white paper like the one posted just some posts ago about charging and temps with the effects on the inards of the cells material. Now maybe it just me but I don’t use or would have my batteries/ cells in temps that are 135f or -4f or have the abilty to charge at 1C (500a in my case). I suppose because most of the studies are for EV where high C charging is a common routine. So showing bad things happen at those temps/ charge rate is a must plus got to show something for grant money if received.

Whereas most of us here are that are using SOLAR as the main charging source don’t see hign C rates but low C rates. I suppose the question is what does a person consider "low" C rate on their batteries.

My system will top around 75a+/- (solar) now take away some constant loads and it puts it more like 60-65a for a couple hours. So using 75a on 500ah battery is only .15C charge rate which is pretty low and that's at the top end which is very rarely. All of this only happens as we know if the sun cooperates. If a hold over charge is needed I'll use a 2200w generator for 2 hours and set the incoming current to 15a and charge at a 100ah that is only .2C once again pretty low. Is there harm being done, maybe...detrimental??? Only time will tell, it's been 6.5 years now using it everyday in conditions from cell temps of 35-40f in coldest conditions to 80-95f in warmest conditions but the norm is 50-70f most of the time.

Like you mentioned maximizing solar yield is important to my lifestyle and probably to others using it as the main charging source for daily needs/ wants. For my lifestyle 1,280w system takes care of those needs probably 95% of the time, I actually had my system wired in for 2 more panels (320w @ 160w panels) but didn't want to give up the space on the 5th wheel roof if I didn't have too.

I can say this that when we added solar/ lfp back in early 2016 there wasn't alot of info out there so it was trial by error that I used from others that I found on some boating forums and off grid fourms but still the info was hit and miss. Everone had settings that worked for them... I settled in at bulk (CC) to 14.1v absorb (CV) 6 minutes, it can't be turned off with my Magnum remote, then float 13.6v (CV).

Having safe guards in place is most important. The inverter is set at 12.0v for low voltage in 6.5 years it has never been triggered even at 25% SOC drawing 175a for 4 minutes making breakfast.

All of the other safe guards are through the EMS (energy management system)
There are seven alarms:
- Over voltage (highest cell is over 3.8V after a 3 second delay)
- Under voltage (lowest cell is below 2.8V after a 30 second delay)
- Over current (current exceeds 10C for 10 seconds)
- Over temperature (highest cell exceeds 150°F or 65°C)
- Under temperature (lowest cell is below 32°F or 0°C, charging is not allowed)
- Ground fault (There is a high voltage leakage greater than 2mA to the chassis pin)
- Unmanaged cells (The programmed number of cells does not equal the number of cells read)

goboatingnow was making a point and it seemed as "Float" is the end of life for batteries but not having true experience in "my" use and others use leaves a debatable conclusion. Plus not specifically stated how float is used leaves alot of interpretation.

It really comes down to picking your poison from ALL information available and having an open mind to information that might not be in some white paper.
 
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---ORIGINAL TITLE----​

Best charge controller settings to achieve 10%-90% usage on lifepo4 ?​


EDIT-UPDATE and the ANSWER to this question. . . This post is a accumulation of all the great and wonderful information given to me by all the great people on this thread. I consolidated all of this into this post and is the result of many hours of research and consulting with the people of this forum. Again thanks every body!!!!! This would not be possible with out you guys. if you believe i missed something or want to amend something please comment on this thread but please do so in a way that can be consolidated and added to this post , . . this is really not my post per say but an accumulation of the knowledge of the people of this forum and thread. .



BEST SOLAR SETTINGS [SO FAR] FOR MAXIMUM LIFE 5,000-10,000+ cycle life


PREFACE The Best settings possible are actually to run from 14%-90% SOC and this has little to due with voltage [besides staying out of the high and low voltage knee] however this is not possible with out a columb meter,or even better a charge controller that operates off of this principle. . Most charge controllers are designed for lead acid and being that the case we have to enter in voltage numbers numbers, so even tho this is not the ideal way to go about it, its the only way for most of us with cheaper and/or older charge controllers. . Here best voltage numbers possible known by the great contributors of this group to achieve the maximum service life possible and put the batteries under as little stress as possible.

BULK/ADSORB 3.45-3.52 [heavily debated] but universally agreed no higher than 3.52 for max service life [3.52 is what victron recommends for max service life
[lower voltage= slower charge times IE [C rate] which is Good but potentially longer in absorb phase which is Bad]
[Higher voltage=faster charge times which is more stressful on cells, BUT less time in absorb phase which is good ] 3.5v-3.52 seems to be a good compromise fast and slow charge times NOTE: Lower voltages means charge rate will be reduced at high SOC and it will be harder to reach 100%. which is great if your shooting for less than 90% state of charge. !!!IMPORTANT NOTE: While the above mentioned data is recommended for minimum stress on the cells it is important that the voltage you set activates your BMS, to keep your cells balanced, if not your BMS becomes useless and will never actually balance , most BMS activate around 3.4 VERIFY at what voltage your BMS activates at . if you are not sure, it just may be better to higher voltage to ensure that its activated[Will Prowse goes all the way to 3.6v OR another option is to keep an eye on it and make sure the cells stay balanced.

FLOAT 3.35
3.35 volts is a good float voltage for high reserve capacity and minimal cell
degradation [3.35 is not really debated if maximum service life is the goal 3.4 if you want a little bit more reserve. Also 3.4 is recommended by many OEMS, however according to some data at 3.35 the cell is not really in a state of stress while anything higher than this it is. . your choice a little bit more conservative or a little bit more reserve ]

CUT OFF 3.1V [but a more ideal verifying the cut off voltage is is to run down battery pack under average load you will be running and then take note of what cell voltage drops off first, once the first cell drops off in voltage , measure the total pack voltage and set low cut off voltage to that measured total pack voltage.
NOTE: In certain high load situations you may get get voltage drop causing the system to "cut off" and shut down under high load even if its not necessarily towards the end of your desired capacity. . , if this is the cause. you may have to set the cut off lower voltage. . 3.1 is a conservative number 3.0-2.9 is recommended for high load situations, but remember this post is all about having the data to make educated choices if your goal is maximum service life and achieving a balance between functionality and maximum service life

OTHER NOTES:
TEMPERATURE-
"""storage at high State of charge and high temperatures promoted such severe losses that the cells in question were unable to recapture capacity that they had lost reversibly""".DO NOT STORE IN HIGH SOC especially in HIGH HEAT, i dont have all the data yet but it seems operating under 32F or over 100F could/will causes damage[especially under 32] as a good precaution in short if your not comfortable the batteries are not comfortable, [this is a super generic but a safe conservative recommendation] As solutions to this conundrum people will run thermostat controlled heat pads and heat blankets for the winter [search the forum] and use water tanks/pads or ac for high temp operation [search the forum] .

VOLTAGE LOSS Every connector in your system as well as wire length attributes to a certain amount of resistance and which results in voltage loss. in other words If you set the charge controller to 3.5 volts the battery may only see 3.2 due to this voltage loss You have to adjust the controller to compensate for the loss. you may also have different losses for different components in your system depending on where there located for example inverter is on a longer length of cable than where the charge controller is located.

HOW TO RESOLVE use a good quality meter . . .measure the terminals at the battery pack , measure the terminals at the controller or inverter, subtract the difference and add this difference to your charge controller or inverters settings. [when testing for charger controller you want to be under charge, for inverter you would want to be under discharge]. measure and test again to ensure this was sufficient compensation

STORAGE, batteries should be stored at about 40% SOC if going to be in storage for long periods of time. . high SOC storage causes premature cell degradation

DON'T BE AFRAID to use the battery at 100% if needed, calendar aging [definition, loss of capacity due to time alone] [thanks will for this input] also plays a role in long term degradation so if even if you baby these cells to the max, with old age you will still loose capacity. .so these numbers above are to baby the cells, but it is perfectly okay to use full 100% soc when you need it , when taken into consideration that the effect that calendar aging has on the battery. Its is a balance between the battery is loosing capacity on its own due to aging and you babying or not babying the cells , because of calendar aging some say who cares and just use it at 100% at all times , however that defeats the purpose of this post of attempting achieve maximum service life. . but it definitely doesn't hurt to use it when you really need it. .
Balance--(run batteries to a high SOC to trigger a good balance on your BMS 4 months or so, -as a maintenance. think of as a equalization ]

A great read by Joey on taking care of your cells https://diysolarforum.com/resources/how-charging-works-in-the-context-of-lfp-batteries.233/download
END POST


______________________________________________________________________________
ORIGINAL OPENING POST


i have spent about 6 hours reading thru google and and almost every relevant search result this website has as well as youtube. . and and my brain is on information over load. . I have a simple question, but i can only seem to find complicated answers and debates between people. I have several charge controllers and all in one units i will be setting up soon for family members and im looking to find what are the best settings to achieve a usage of between 10%-90% SOC on lifepo4 batteries. . . from everything i read it seems this is the safest for long term reliabilty [10-15 years or more if possible] . . but cant find info how to set the settings to achieve this .. . . . as we all know almost all charge controllers are designed for lead acid, so we are stuck with programming such parameters and have to make do with float and absorption settings. . what im looking for is the approximate voltages settings on a per cell basis for the following

bulk
absorption
float
low voltage cut off


also any other settings you recommended changing for lifepo4. .
should these numbers be different when under load?
any other considerations when using mpp units ?

the most straight forward answer i found was wills on his site, [ https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/diy-lifepo4-solar-battery.html ]
however his recommendations were based on 100% SOC which i prefer not to use since were looking for extra long life with this batteries ,so i prefer to stick to 80% however his post was the most straight forward answer of the 6 hours i have been searching online . . essentially looking for same answer but with 80% in mind. .
Information to having one package it might take a while for each one to become familiar with every nuance here but if it does it does
 
---ORIGINAL TITLE----​

Best charge controller settings to achieve 10%-90% usage on lifepo4 ?​


EDIT-UPDATE and the ANSWER to this question. . . This post is a accumulation of all the great and wonderful information given to me by all the great people on this thread. I consolidated all of this into this post and is the result of many hours of research and consulting with the people of this forum. Again thanks every body!!!!! This would not be possible with out you guys. if you believe i missed something or want to amend something please comment on this thread but please do so in a way that can be consolidated and added to this post , . . this is really not my post per say but an accumulation of the knowledge of the people of this forum and thread. .



BEST SOLAR SETTINGS [SO FAR] FOR MAXIMUM LIFE 5,000-10,000+ cycle life


PREFACE The Best settings possible are actually to run from 14%-90% SOC and this has little to due with voltage [besides staying out of the high and low voltage knee] however this is not possible with out a columb meter,or even better a charge controller that operates off of this principle. . Most charge controllers are designed for lead acid and being that the case we have to enter in voltage numbers numbers, so even tho this is not the ideal way to go about it, its the only way for most of us with cheaper and/or older charge controllers. . Here best voltage numbers possible known by the great contributors of this group to achieve the maximum service life possible and put the batteries under as little stress as possible.

BULK/ADSORB 3.45-3.52 [heavily debated] but universally agreed no higher than 3.52 for max service life [3.52 is what victron recommends for max service life
[lower voltage= slower charge times IE [C rate] which is Good but potentially longer in absorb phase which is Bad]
[Higher voltage=faster charge times which is more stressful on cells, BUT less time in absorb phase which is good ] 3.5v-3.52 seems to be a good compromise fast and slow charge times NOTE: Lower voltages means charge rate will be reduced at high SOC and it will be harder to reach 100%. which is great if your shooting for less than 90% state of charge. !!!IMPORTANT NOTE: While the above mentioned data is recommended for minimum stress on the cells it is important that the voltage you set activates your BMS, to keep your cells balanced, if not your BMS becomes useless and will never actually balance , most BMS activate around 3.4 VERIFY at what voltage your BMS activates at . if you are not sure, it just may be better to higher voltage to ensure that its activated[Will Prowse goes all the way to 3.6v OR another option is to keep an eye on it and make sure the cells stay balanced.

FLOAT 3.35
3.35 volts is a good float voltage for high reserve capacity and minimal cell
degradation [3.35 is not really debated if maximum service life is the goal 3.4 if you want a little bit more reserve. Also 3.4 is recommended by many OEMS, however according to some data at 3.35 the cell is not really in a state of stress while anything higher than this it is. . your choice a little bit more conservative or a little bit more reserve ]

CUT OFF 3.1V [but a more ideal verifying the cut off voltage is is to run down battery pack under average load you will be running and then take note of what cell voltage drops off first, once the first cell drops off in voltage , measure the total pack voltage and set low cut off voltage to that measured total pack voltage.
NOTE: In certain high load situations you may get get voltage drop causing the system to "cut off" and shut down under high load even if its not necessarily towards the end of your desired capacity. . , if this is the cause. you may have to set the cut off lower voltage. . 3.1 is a conservative number 3.0-2.9 is recommended for high load situations, but remember this post is all about having the data to make educated choices if your goal is maximum service life and achieving a balance between functionality and maximum service life

OTHER NOTES:
TEMPERATURE-
"""storage at high State of charge and high temperatures promoted such severe losses that the cells in question were unable to recapture capacity that they had lost reversibly""".DO NOT STORE IN HIGH SOC especially in HIGH HEAT, i dont have all the data yet but it seems operating under 32F or over 100F could/will causes damage[especially under 32] as a good precaution in short if your not comfortable the batteries are not comfortable, [this is a super generic but a safe conservative recommendation] As solutions to this conundrum people will run thermostat controlled heat pads and heat blankets for the winter [search the forum] and use water tanks/pads or ac for high temp operation [search the forum] .

VOLTAGE LOSS Every connector in your system as well as wire length attributes to a certain amount of resistance and which results in voltage loss. in other words If you set the charge controller to 3.5 volts the battery may only see 3.2 due to this voltage loss You have to adjust the controller to compensate for the loss. you may also have different losses for different components in your system depending on where there located for example inverter is on a longer length of cable than where the charge controller is located.

HOW TO RESOLVE use a good quality meter . . .measure the terminals at the battery pack , measure the terminals at the controller or inverter, subtract the difference and add this difference to your charge controller or inverters settings. [when testing for charger controller you want to be under charge, for inverter you would want to be under discharge]. measure and test again to ensure this was sufficient compensation

STORAGE, batteries should be stored at about 40% SOC if going to be in storage for long periods of time. . high SOC storage causes premature cell degradation

DON'T BE AFRAID to use the battery at 100% if needed, calendar aging [definition, loss of capacity due to time alone] [thanks will for this input] also plays a role in long term degradation so if even if you baby these cells to the max, with old age you will still loose capacity. .so these numbers above are to baby the cells, but it is perfectly okay to use full 100% soc when you need it , when taken into consideration that the effect that calendar aging has on the battery. Its is a balance between the battery is loosing capacity on its own due to aging and you babying or not babying the cells , because of calendar aging some say who cares and just use it at 100% at all times , however that defeats the purpose of this post of attempting achieve maximum service life. . but it definitely doesn't hurt to use it when you really need it. .
Balance--(run batteries to a high SOC to trigger a good balance on your BMS 4 months or so, -as a maintenance. think of as a equalization ]

A great read by Joey on taking care of your cells https://diysolarforum.com/resources/how-charging-works-in-the-context-of-lfp-batteries.233/download
END POST


______________________________________________________________________________
ORIGINAL OPENING POST


i have spent about 6 hours reading thru google and and almost every relevant search result this website has as well as youtube. . and and my brain is on information over load. . I have a simple question, but i can only seem to find complicated answers and debates between people. I have several charge controllers and all in one units i will be setting up soon for family members and im looking to find what are the best settings to achieve a usage of between 10%-90% SOC on lifepo4 batteries. . . from everything i read it seems this is the safest for long term reliabilty [10-15 years or more if possible] . . but cant find info how to set the settings to achieve this .. . . . as we all know almost all charge controllers are designed for lead acid, so we are stuck with programming such parameters and have to make do with float and absorption settings. . what im looking for is the approximate voltages settings on a per cell basis for the following

bulk
absorption
float
low voltage cut off


also any other settings you recommended changing for lifepo4. .
should these numbers be different when under load?
any other considerations when using mpp units ?

the most straight forward answer i found was wills on his site, [ https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/diy-lifepo4-solar-battery.html ]
however his recommendations were based on 100% SOC which i prefer not to use since were looking for extra long life with this batteries ,so i prefer to stick to 80% however his post was the most straight forward answer of the 6 hours i have been searching online . . essentially looking for same answer but with 80% in mind. .
I tend to believe....if my battery bank is 400AH and my peak charging is hardly 40A.
Stress to the battery should be almost zero and I should always recharge it to 100% whever possible
 
What price precision?

All these voltage numbers are sweet. When dealing with LFP, where 100mv (0.1v) differences are trigger levels for the various extended-life strategies are discussed, what are you using to measure / confirm them with?

The front panel of your cheap inverter?

My CBA-IV which has a forward voltage drop of 300mv (typical for a diode). Oh NO! Instead of cycle testing down to 2.5v, in reality *at the terminals* it is 2.8V !!

Has Andy done likewise with his custom charger/discharger and made for that small discrepency? And if so, with what?

If you get to this level, you better have only *ONE* house standard for measuring voltages that hinge on repeatable super-accuracy, and apply compensations for those devices that don't line up to it.

Which means you are going to pony up for a high-end multimeter, like a Fluke, (or other reliable brand) and not one from the hardware store. But people are reluctant to do that, and all these magic potions that rely on this thread's precision mean SQUAT if you don't.
 
Has Andy done likewise with his custom charger/discharger and made for that small discrepency?
I thought it had voltage sense leads.
But of course those should be validated/calibrated to a reference.
I've heard him say the words "point of truth" so I suspect he is familiar with the concept.
 
He may be familiar with the concept, but has he vetted it at least once to a *singular* house-standard to make sure he doesn't have a bad sample, and is relying solely on the fact that it has sense leads and not tested it? We don't know, or at least I haven't seen him prove it - maybe I've missed it. I'm sure he has, but things happen.

But this isn't about him - just a warning that when we get to this minute level of detail concerning voltages and lab-like long-term strategies, then you need a single house standard to make sure all else lines up to it. Otherwise, it's all paper-talk. :)

A common trap at this level of precision is tolerance creep. Say you have 3 voltage measuring devices daisy chained along the way. You verified that the first device agrees with your Fluke at 13.6v. Great. The other two devices don't need to be checked because they also agree with the first one, but you didn't put the Fluke on it. They all read 13.6, so I'm good to go. Maybe not due to tolerance creep!

One day you put the Fluke at the end of this chain, and find that you are in actuality at 13.4v! That might be a go/no go deal for your plan. Tolerance creep was the culprit.

Most diy'ers aren't going to go to such details, which puts all the talk into the non-practical realm.
 
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That's great. No voltmeter snobbery here. (Well, there is a limit).

Just make it your singular house-standard in your battery installs to have the final say and keep daisy-chained tolerance creep from less accurate displays and so forth from fooling you.

The gist of it is that if one is going to talk about .1v differences on paper and in threads for life-extending techniques, then you have to followup with nearly as much precision with the real-world hardware, which often lies to you - hence the need for a house-standard.

OR, shoot for a more general practical approach, and the need for this thread disappears. :)
 
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Please help me understand...
When my Li battery is in float, the charge current is 0. How will this damage the cells?
Its depends on the voltage.
The lower the voltage the less effect on the cells.
Holding the cells at or above full resting voltage is where the concern lies.
 
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