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diy solar

Blown fuse in AC disconnect?

Ha... 2 cents? More like 200 bucks! That was thorough. I have a bad optimizer and the installer wants to send a guy there to replace it. I will have them check this out and see what they say.

All Warning's will be needed!
 
Could the black conductor be moved to the left and the neutral/ground lug be moved? I really did not look to see if this is feasible or even correct?

New disconnect seems most logical.
 
If there is a spare pole, unused because this was a 3-phase disconnect, that is expedient.
Do I see a separate neutral contact, neat the pole? With ground bonded too? This thing is just your PV disconnect, not service entrance, so if ground bonds to neutral there, that can't be right.

If that was meant to be a switched neutral, doubt it is so easy to repurpose to "line". But neutrals could be joined in a suitable insulated connector. There is likely a screw grounding enclosure to same neutral/ground lug, so that would have to be removed.

This switch has one side pressure on the contact, which I find kind of odd. I'm used to seeing stationary contact squeeze to contact surfaces together onto moving one. A replacement switch, capable of more amps, should run cooler. Just make sure 40A fuse is available for it.

Like this:



@fromport - why do you say 8 awg isn't acceptable for 50A?
This chart says 55A 90C wire, 50A 75C wire:

 
If there is a spare pole, unused because this was a 3-phase disconnect, that is expedient.
Do I see a separate neutral contact, neat the pole? With ground bonded too? This thing is just your PV disconnect, not service entrance, so if ground bonds to neutral there, that can't be right.

This is not a PV disconnect.
this is AC disconnect with supply side hookup
So the wires to the top are going (unfused) to the metal between the meter and the main breaker on his main service panel.

In order to put this without power, you would need to pull the meter to work on this safely !



If that was meant to be a switched neutral, doubt it is so easy to repurpose to "line". But neutrals could be joined in a suitable insulated connector. There is likely a screw grounding enclosure to same neutral/ground lug, so that would have to be removed.

I don't think it is a spot where ground and neutral are connected, although the white wire sure is suspicious !

Screenshot from 2022-08-14 20-48-43.png
btw:
This Immediately takes out the plan to replace the "burned" switch contact with the "unused" one at the left.
THis is solely intented for a split phase setup with a neutral, this is not a 3 phase switch and the left one can not be used (imo) for anything else but switching "a neutral" wire.

This switch has one side pressure on the contact, which I find kind of odd. I'm used to seeing stationary contact squeeze to contact surfaces together onto moving one. A replacement switch, capable of more amps, should run cooler. Just make sure 40A fuse is available for it.
This would not be my kind of switch to use either.
I like contacts to wedged in between 2 pieces of brass instead of this setup.

@fromport - why do you say 8 awg isn't acceptable for 50A?
This chart says 55A 90C wire, 50A 75C wire:
I haven't searched on this forum but hasn't this been beaten to death yet?

Look at this detail of a photo of this setup:
Screenshot from 2022-08-14 20-50-42.png
it looks to me that part of this insulation has melted away, you can even see the triangle shape in the shadow in the back.

Now back to #8 with 55A rating.
Would you feel file with 2 x #8 wires in a 1/2" conduit ?
The op of this thread already mentioned ambient temp is "hot" , it is hanging in full sun light.
And your table description says
"Ampacities of Not More Than Three Current-Carrying Conductors in Raceway, Cable or Earth. Based on
Ampbient Temperature of 30°C (86°F)"

I am not afraid of wires melting, but the insulation melting and 2 wires starting to make a short
When that is a supply side hookup like this case, there is no fuse! the only current limitation is the transformer capability and the supply wires to this home.
 
I appreciate all the different looks and thoughts. I did see that insulation peeling back. The layer underneath is still intact. Is this a real concern?

Took some temps. Where blades meet at the top black was 160 f. Red was 158 f. The unfused leg was 116 f. Bottom of fues are the same temp. Tops the black is above the red by about 5 degrees.
 
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