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diy solar

BYD BMS

Conclusion:

Molex Micro-Fit 3.0
430251000 10POS 3mm Molex Micro-Fit 3.0
or
1729521001 Micro-Fit TPA Receptacle Housing WITH Micro-Fit Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Retainer

Molex
4303000001 12" PRE-CRIMPED Molex Jumper Wires
or Crimp your own wires
Micro-Fit 3.0 Crimp Terminal, Female


TE Connectivity AMP Connectors
1318772-2 12POS 2.2MM Tyco Electronics Header
1318745-2 32POS 2.2MM Tyco Electronics Header

Dupont Wires
Female to Female Jumper Cables

The Male to Male jumper cables, sort of work, but are very loose. If you are comfortable with them, you do not need the TE connectors.

The Molex connector on the BYD fan panel:
The connector has pretty much no standard on the backside. I have 3 different ways it is wired on my BYD batteries. Use the jumper cables to the outside panel.

The only thing that is standard, is the fan 24V position on the far left.
24V R B B B B
24V R B B B B
or
24V B B B B R
24V B B B B R
(
nevermind this, just look at the pictures a few posts after this)

It's just a color and a connector. Connect the jumpers so the Molex Connector on the outside is
_ 7 5 3 1
_ 8 6 4 2


Wires on the battery side on my BYD's are the same for all 8.
- - - 7 5 3 1 ---------
- - - 8 6 4 2 ---------
In fact, would this package work well in my case and keep things simple for me? It is this the same basic thing, correct?

 
The pack inside the TE is no different than what Big Battery is selling. It is the exact same very used battery.
 
Yes, I know, thats wh
The pack inside the TE is no different than what Big Battery is selling. It is the exact same very used battery.
Yes, I know, that's why I want to parallel 2 to meet my needs for about the same dollar amount. I don't need their pretty box or their limited BMS... I'm willing with your help to do the work.

What do you think about my questions about the BMS that you used but for my size system, and the wiring harnesses necessary?
 
I have a 4 pack on one BMS now (I am bypassing the BMS, but it is monitoring the cells), it's kaput for current flow
. The BMS wiring really doesn't matter, it's all just "signal" wire, it will work. The disadvantage with trying to use one BMS on two packs, you are only monitoring one pack.

If you do what DavePoz did and parallel each cell to the other packs cell, then you have monitoring on each cell, and passive balancing on each cell. It still works great and you still have good monitoring.
Screenshot (22).png
 
I have a 4 pack on one BMS now (I am bypassing the BMS, but it is monitoring the cells), it's kaput for current flow
. The BMS wiring really doesn't matter, it's all just "signal" wire, it will work. The disadvantage with trying to use one BMS on two packs, you are only monitoring one pack.

If you do what DavePoz did and parallel each cell to the other packs cell, then you have monitoring on each cell, and passive balancing on each cell. It still works great and you still have good monitoring.
View attachment 10149
Okay, great to know, thank you, Jason.
Do you think I can just buy the eBay link option I attached earlier this morning? It is only rated for 100a but I will have probably less than 20a. Will their BMS/LCD with wiring kit work, or do I need to try and find all the exact parts you used?
 
Okay, great to know, thank you, Jason.
Do you think I can just buy the eBay link option I attached earlier this morning? It is only rated for 100a but I will have probably less than 20a. Will their BMS/LCD with wiring kit work, or do I need to try and find all the exact parts you used?
I think it will work fine.
I bought the 300 amp ones, I doubt they really can handle that.
But in the end, I am only putting at most 15 amps through the BMS regularly. I did a peak test once and it was 94 amps, that's just under 24 amps on the BMS.
 
anyone has instruction for how to install the chargery bms on the byd battery pack?
 
I just hooked up my BMS8T. I used the connector on the original defunct BMS that came with the BYD. Cut the connector off the motherboard and soldered on the Chargery wire. Works great, no need to order any extra cables or connectors. Protect the delicate wires with a big blob from a glue gun.

P_20200430_094822.jpg
 
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This is the original BYD BMS Im talking about that shipped with the bare unit. Unscrew the motherboard and cut out the connector with wire snips. Carefully clean and trim the leads and then solder on your BMS leads using the layout shown earlier in this thread.

bP_20200430_094930.jpg
 
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I've found you can test the Chargery in your lab using a standard laptop 12v DC charger I had lying around that had the correct size barrel connector. Plug it in and set the switch to battery. When the screen comes on change the cells to one and press start. It then boots up as normal. You can then test it / set it and update the firmware without going to your solar shed and attaching it to a giant battery..

P_20200430_101558.jpg
 
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THE BMS that Will reviewed, and I recommended is now a DO NOT BUY.

About 3 months of use and 1 of the MOSFETs failed, the monitor still works fine, however you cannot pass current through the BMS.
About 5 months of use a 2nd MOSFET failed.
And now exactly 6 months of use, all 4 have failed.

I do not put them under heavy stress, usually only 5 to 8 amps! These are labeled 320 amps.

2.13 kW of off grid sun today feeding my house and batteries
IMG_20200604_135728851.jpgIMG_20200604_135724849.jpg
The monitor and the screens and Bluetooth still work.
Just zero temperature low voltage, high voltage, or spread protection. The LV5048's are the only protection for the bulk/float/and low voltage disconnect.
IMG_20200604_135659332.jpg IMG_20200604_135644263.jpg IMG_20200604_135600189.jpg
I am now running what is called a "Diagonal" setup.
IMG_20200604_135620598.jpg

THESE BMS ARE AKA "ANT-BMS" bought from ICGOGO.

DO NOT BUY.
 
If your talking about the BMS units they supplied with the BYD boxes, I returned mine after 1 blew up immediately, I now use Chargery. Same price, but so much more functionality.
 
If your talking about the BMS units they supplied with the BYD boxes, I returned mine after 1 blew up immediately, I now use Chargery. Same price, but so much more functionality.
I have no idea what was put into the "all in one" box along with the BYD. See the first post in this thread, that is the BMS I have.
 
Based on Will recommendation I purchased 4 with monitors and none of them output more than 21v on my multimeter from my BYD 24v system and appear not to feed energy to my inverter or charge from my solar panels. I rebooted them and used the 3-5V power on method per the manual - got the beep that it started. How do I connect to each one with Bluetooth if they all have the same ANT-BMS identification? And where do I get the software, (lost my previous smartphone).
 
I started with a cheap $30 16s active balancer. It worked for a while but I noticed it didn't have enough time to do any meaningful balancing. I ordered me a jkbms 2s-24s 1A balancer.
This jkbms has a Bluetooth app which shows everything and also has a low voltage cutoff. But that was not enough for me as I would still have to go near in my case the garage to see what was happening and this jkbms is intelligent enough to balance all the way from low voltage to high and starts balancing as soon as the difference is 0.005v which is what I set. It was fun watching do its thing when I was close enough to the garage but I had to be close so I worked with jblance and dmcinc and added the functionality into my pi setup for monitoring the entire setup and I am very happy
I can check the setup any time from anywhere.
Not sure if I can attach a short video
 
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Based on Will recommendation I purchased 4 with monitors and none of them output more than 21v on my multimeter from my BYD 24v system and appear not to feed energy to my inverter or charge from my solar panels. I rebooted them and used the 3-5V power on method per the manual - got the beep that it started. How do I connect to each one with Bluetooth if they all have the same ANT-BMS identification? And where do I get the software, (lost my previous smartphone).
 
Looks good, can you send me a link to the device you used and what cable you need? I will add it to my public library of supported devices.
Did they send you a protocol document?
Thanks .. Joe.

I started with a cheap $30 16s active balancer. It worked for a while but I noticed it didn't have enough time to do any meaningful balancing. I ordered me a jkbms 2s-24s 1A balancer.
This jkbms has a Bluetooth app which shows everything and also has a low voltage cutoff. But that was not enough for me as I would still have to go near in my case the garage to see what was happening and this jkbms is intelligent enough to balance all the way from low voltage to high and starts balancing as soon as the difference is 0.005v which is what I set. It was fun watching do its thing when I was close enough to the garage but I had to be close so I worked with jblance and dmcinc and added the functionality into my pi setup for monitoring the entire setup and I am very happy
I can check the setup any time from anywhere.
Not sure if I can attach a short video
 
Looks good, can you send me a link to the device you used and what cable you need? I will add it to my public library of supported devices.
Did they send you a protocol document?
Thanks .. Joe.

 
Looks good, can you send me a link to the device you used and what cable you need? I will add it to my public library of supported devices.
Did they send you a protocol document?
Thanks .. Joe.

Would this work on MPP Solar LV2424? If so, I just need to get the pi set up and a usb to serial adapters? Have you considered using prometheus/graphna/docker and package them into a container?
 
It should really well for all the mpp units with data output from a serial interface.

I haven't tried a docker container yet. When the system is stable, I want to try it out for sure. Stay tuned.

Would this work on MPP Solar LV2424? If so, I just need to get the pi set up and a usb to serial adapters? Have you considered using prometheus/graphna/docker and package them into a container?
 
The first thing to do is connect to Bluetooth.
If you only have one, then skip this:
  • Scroll down until you get to "Bluetooth MAC Address"
    • Change it to anything "1 - 65535"
On the MainView tab press "FE-LI Param", it doesn't really matter, but it made me feel like I did something important.
Pres Param1 tab.
Put in the settings, 1 by 1.
  • You have to press SET after every item you change. I press SAVE also. (Again, I don't know if SAVE actually does anything, but it made me happy)
Here are my "safest" settings I can think of:
View attachment 8303View attachment 8302View attachment 8301View attachment 8300
(High Res Screen Shots)

I am basing these settings off of using the flat part of the LiFEPO4 discharge curve. Feel free to experiment though. My settings stay in the flat 80%, and avoid the legs.


Hi Jason, thanks for taking the time to document the ants bms parameters. They have been an extremely helpful guide for a newbie like me! I'm setting up a 24v 8s 190ah lifepo4 battery bank for my campervan aka RV)

The only parameter I'm not sure about from your parameters screen shots is the "Total voltage reference value" where you have put 65535N.
However in the BMS parameters instructions excel document, it says its looking for a voltage range of 3300-3400v for that parameter.

I've entered 3400N for this parameter but don't really understand it or if it's correct. Do you have any idea?

Also please see my parameters which I have based on your guidance and some of my own estimates for the temp cut offs and alarms.
 

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Conclusion:

Molex Micro-Fit 3.0
430251000 10POS 3mm Molex Micro-Fit 3.0
or
1729521001 Micro-Fit TPA Receptacle Housing WITH Micro-Fit Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Retainer

Molex
4303000001 12" PRE-CRIMPED Molex Jumper Wires
or Crimp your own wires
Micro-Fit 3.0 Crimp Terminal, Female


TE Connectivity AMP Connectors
1318772-2 12POS 2.2MM Tyco Electronics Header
1318745-2 32POS 2.2MM Tyco Electronics Header

Dupont Wires
Female to Female Jumper Cables

The Male to Male jumper cables, sort of work, but are very loose. If you are comfortable with them, you do not need the TE connectors.

The Molex connector on the BYD fan panel:
The connector has pretty much no standard on the backside. I have 3 different ways it is wired on my BYD batteries. Use the jumper cables to the outside panel.

The only thing that is standard, is the fan 24V position on the far left.
24V R B B B B
24V R B B B B
or
24V B B B B R
24V B B B B R
(
nevermind this, just look at the pictures a few posts after this)

It's just a color and a connector. Connect the jumpers so the Molex Connector on the outside is
_ 7 5 3 1
_ 8 6 4 2


Wires on the battery side on my BYD's are the same for all 8.
- - - 7 5 3 1 ---------
- - - 8 6 4 2 ---------


I am looking for the connector on the outside of the byd battery. The 10 pin connector. I want to make sure that is what you used before I order a bunch of them. I plan on interfacing with the bms via canbus and make my own bms using this data. Also am putting on a 5 amp balance system hoping to get the absolute most power from the packs.

Really appreciate your hard work on these. Can someone please verify that this 10 pin molex micro-fit 3.0 is what is used on the byd packs.
 
I am looking for the connector on the outside of the byd battery. The 10 pin connector. I want to make sure that is what you used before I order a bunch of them. I plan on interfacing with the bms via canbus and make my own bms using this data. Also am putting on a 5 amp balance system hoping to get the absolute most power from the packs.

Really appreciate your hard work on these. Can someone please verify that this 10 pin molex micro-fit 3.0 is what is used on the byd packs.
This bypasses the onboard BMS/Canbus, but yes you can use that connector to connect to the onboard canbus thing that nobody knows how to use.
 
This bypasses the onboard BMS/Canbus, but yes you can use that connector to connect to the onboard canbus thing that nobody knows how to use.
Thank you that was what I needed to know. There is actually a forum member who has done some legwork for the canbus communications. He was able to decode the cell voltages through canbus. He didn't have a full system. I'm fairly certain I'll be able to also decode the temperatures. My plan is to make a bms with a esp32 reading the information from the batteries and an external cell balancer.

This is a link to the information on the canbus.
 

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