Camper van system questions

[Pathfinder75]

I'm at the design phase for a new camper van system. Van is a Mk8 Ford Transit Euro 5. I want to build a system that is semi full time, as in I would like to be able to live in it for a few weeks at a time while working, but will fall back to my house when I'm not. I have a quite limited budget for the whole thing. Initially looking at this kit. But I want the ability to upgrade it in the future, so add a second battery and probably a second DC-DC Charger.

2x 410W panels
2x 30A Epever DuoRacer MPPT
1x 300Ah DIY LiFePO4 battery (probably using Fogstar B Grade Cells)
1x Sterling 1260 DC-DC Charger

When more money available:
1x Epever 1500W Inverter
1x Victron 30A AC battery charger (3 output version)
A second 300Ah DIY LiFePo4 battery
Possibly another DC-DC Charger.

The system will need to run, lights, usb sockets, a small computer (DC input and not all the time), TV, various chargers, 12V diesel heater, water pumps and when spare power a 12V 300W immersion heater.

I don't have money for expensive Victron kit and initial budget will be around £1000-1200 for the panels, MPPT's, Battery and DC-DC Charger. I have a lot of wires and other parts left over from previous builds.

Will that work?

 

[grizzzman]

I'm at the design phase for a new camper van system. Van is a Mk8 Ford Transit Euro 5. I want to build a system that is semi full time, as in I would like to be able to live in it for a few weeks at a time while working, but will fall back to my house when I'm not. I have a quite limited budget for the whole thing. Initially looking at this kit. But I want the ability to upgrade it in the future, so add a second battery and probably a second DC-DC Charger.

2x 410W panels
2x 30A Epever DuoRacer MPPT
1x 300Ah DIY LiFePO4 battery (probably using Fogstar B Grade Cells)
1x Sterling 1260 DC-DC Charger

When more money available:
1x Epever 1500W Inverter
1x Victron 30A AC battery charger (3 output version)
A second 300Ah DIY LiFePo4 battery
Possibly another DC-DC Charger.

The system will need to run, lights, usb sockets, a small computer (DC input and not all the time), TV, various chargers, 12V diesel heater, water pumps and when spare power a 12V 300W immersion heater.

I don't have money for expensive Victron kit and initial budget will be around £1000-1200 for the panels, MPPT's, Battery and DC-DC Charger. I have a lot of wires and other parts left over from previous builds.

Will that work?

You will likely be using the Sterling a lot. If that is acceptable then yes.

 

[mikefitz]

Will that work

The Epever and a Victron Smart100/30 cost the same, the Victron is far superior to the Epever.
Sterling 1260 is not easy to set up and in practice the output is nowhere near 60 amps. Find another £50 and consider a Victron Orion XS.

probably using Fogstar B Grade Cells

Usually good value but you may have to set charge voltage lower than default charger settings, ease of user setup of charge profile is useful.

Victron 30A AC battery charger (3 output version)

There is no way to configure the outputs seperatly, thus whatever charge profile you set, applies to all outputs, and the 30 amps is shared between outputs. If your lithium batteries are in parallel a single output charger is prefered

Possibly another DC-DC Charger.

60 amps is about the safe limit to avoid undue stress on the alternator.

Recomended alternative,
2 off 410 panels
1 off Victron Smart 100/50
300 Ah battery , if possible go for Fogstar grade A
JBD BMS 200 or 300 amp Fogstar
1 off Victron Orion XS
1 off Victron Smart Shunt. Battery monitor ( this also communicates battery volts and temperature over the Bluetooth VE bus built into Victron products).
If engine battery maintain charge is a necessity then consider,

Ablemail AMT12-2 Battery Maintainer

<p>The AMT12-2 Trickle Charger has been designed to keep a vehicle’s starter battery charged and protected from damage during prolonged perio...

www.roadpro.co.uk

AC battery charger, single output Victron IP22

With you modest electrical load I don't think you need to consider a future battery update.

Don't dismiss Victron products, the cost difference is less than you think. The performance, ease of user programming, data storage, and 5 year warranty is an advantage.

 

[Pathfinder75]

Yeah it's fine.

Would more panels be better? I can probably add in a third 410w panel without too much issue. I have the roof space. I'm not really bothered with skylights. For air flow I will use the Maxxair dome vents.

Shore power/EHU will be available too. But the amount of time I will have that possibility is limited, but will probably drop on camp sites occasionally to refill water, empty toilet and charge everything back up. But this is primarily going to be an off grid van.

The DuoRacer was picked because I have two (separate) Lead Acid batteries that will need charging/maintaining. One is the Vehicle Battery and the other is a secondary system that will allow heater pad usage on the Lithium when temperatures are below 0C and to run lights and heating (it's also the failover if the main system dies, so at the bare minimum I will have power for usb, lights and heating). One of my side plans is to drive to Nordkapp next year and do some walking. From what i understand the Lithium isn't going to be happy with temperatures below 0C (and maybe much lower). I'm not against the Victron 100/30, I just couldn't work out how to do it and keep the cost low enough. I already run a 30A DuoRacer on my current system with a 80Ah LiFePO4 battery and with all likelihood would take it over on to the next build.

I haven't really dismissed Victron, I just can't afford it on this build. Total budget is maybe £3000-4000, then as funds become available I will add more upgrades like a Surejust calorifier system, compressor fridge, spin dryer. Initially it will be quite basic, but usable.

 

[HarryN]

Large panels like that are cheaper per watt, but a real PITA to mount up on top of a van roof. Consider instead to use ~ 200 watt size. Maybe you can find some used.

It will be easier for you and generally more reliable if you start out with a 24 volt battery pack and try to use 24 volt components rather than 12 volt.

There are only a handful of configurations where one battery can output enough power continuously to run a 1500 watt inverter. Watch also the charge rates.

At least 50% of the LiFe batteries sold here in the US of that capacity could not keep up with your inverter / charge rate plan. That is why 2 battery configurations are common.

If you build it as a 24 volt system, then it might be possible to just use one one solar charge controller.

Budget wise, you will need to choose between doing solar or battery to battery charging in your initial build up as you are only capturing about 1/2 of the detailed cost.

 

[Pathfinder75]

Panel wise I intend to run it like I did on my last Transit and put the panels straight across from side to side. They are roughly 1.8M by 1.5M and I mount with L brackets and bolts. I've done it that way for three vans so far and it works for me. Roof space is about 1.8M wide and 4.3M long.

Reasoning for not using 24V was I would have to buy Orion Converters for all my 12V items. I have nothing that uses 24V. I understand the reasoning for using 24V and if I didn't already have a load of 12V kit i probably would have gone that way. But if I do 24V i add in conversion losses which may or may not actually be a problem and I also have to buy new things that run on 24V.

Since the battery is a DIY build I can tailor the BMS side of it to the spec of the system. The cells have a max discharge of 1C/300A, so coupled with a 250A BMS, would it not suffice for the 125A the Inverter needs?

Charging wise I could change to Orion chargers and start with one 30A and then add a second one later. One 30A is about the same price as the Sterling 60A. This system is aimed primarily at more solar charging as I will mostly be sat at one location for a few days and not driving around.