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Can you please look at my wiring diagram - looking for a 15A inline AC fuse/breaker?

Tomthumb62

Solar Wizard
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FINAL EDIT: I finally FOUND an inline breaker. It's AC/DC rated, here's the 15A version:

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EDITED to add: This is a homemade camp trailer. It has a DC fuse panel, but not one for AC. It originally had 1 single outlet that hooked up to an extension cord to shore power.

EDIT #2: Okay, so my google-fu is working better today. Is this the sort of thing I want (I think it might be): https://www.grainger.com/product/40...LIwzUd9zgYoIr8pOe3caAqgqEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

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So my main question is where can I find a simple in-line AC 15A fuse or breaker? In-line options seem to exist for DC but not AC. I don't want/need an entire breaker panel, I just want to protect two AC outlets. While each NEMA-15 outlet gives me two ports, 4 in total, I will never be using all 4 to draw power at once. Our AC needs are limited. The biggest draw will be the AC fridge, which I measure 600-800W on compressor startup and 50-80W running using a kill-a-watt meter. We will charge small electronics like phones and laptops and if battery storage suffices, possibly run a 100W electric blanket for about an hour/day during colder months. This is a recreational camp trailer but my wife will be living in it for a couple of months this summer as she visits family.

Also, since I've never run wire before for AC outlets and this is in a high-vibration situation, I assume I would NOT want to run solid copper wire through conduit, but rather flexible wiring such as used in vehicle DC systems in conduit would be preferable. I will be having an electrician friend look this over in person, but I want to make sure I'm coming to him with the right ideas to begin with, so I appreciate your input! And since I've never run through conduit before, is plain ol' 1/2" PVC pipe sufficient here? The wiring/conduit would go between a 1/4" plywood wall and 1/4" steel wall, with foam board and wool pile for insulation. Being such a small run, I envision I could run the wire by hand through the PVC, then glue the two 90-degree joints (joints not shown in diagram). Is there any danger using 90-degree joints here? 12/3 wire sufficient?

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Many connections like SCC, shore power charger and 12v house loads not shown for clarity.
 
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Bump to see if anyone has more ideas. I'd prefer a circuit breaker, but a fuse would suffice.

I read somewhere that an inverter doesn't need a circuit breaker or fuse as the Victron already has a fuse inside the unit, but since I'm not an electrician, I'd prefer to lean on the side of caution. I need just a single breaker here and I can't seem to find a simple way (without installing a panel designed for multiple breakers) to put a breaker in-line. The fuse holders I am finding don't have covers...I could wrap the whole thing in electrical tape, but that's just not very secure.

Why is it so easy to find DC in-line fuses (that are covered/protected) but AC ones are so difficult?!
 
I'm scratching my head, trying to remember if I've ever used an AC fuse. Nope. But the one you linked to seems legit.
Thanks for confirming I’m on the right track. I did find what I think is a box to hold two breakers, but being in a tiny trailer I don’t want wasted space!

I would think in the van life world, there would be a market for single ac breakers that could be installed inline like the DC ones, but I think many van folks don’t bother with fuses or breakers for their AC output.
 
do you have a converter in the camper (battery charger)
if yes........... make sure it is wired with it's own breaker to the #2 INPUT and only comes on while on shore power

most campers / RV use solid wire... just make sure it is well secured

think about adding a 12v Outlet + USB port on one panel
you won't need to turn on the inverter for phone charging
 
most campers / RV use solid wire... just make sure it is well secured

I’m reading conflicting info about this. Makes sense that the high vibrations of an rv could be rough on solid wire. I mean you never see solid wire in automotive wiring. But I’m new to this as well.

think about adding a 12v Outlet + USB port on one panel
you won't need to turn on the inverter for phone charging
Inverter will be on 24/7 for a fridge, but yeah I do intend to install such a 12v/usb outlet, good idea thanks.
 
One thing to consider: some models are auto breaker only (e.g. you can not manually throw the switch to open the circuit). Some have on/off switches that you can manually throw. Since you already have a 1 / 2 / Off battery switch, you probably don't need a manual breaker?
 
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