Changes coming to my RV ...

[cinergi]

Starting with a little teaser picture. I got something in progress on my existing build (which is a 3350 watt, 27 kWh, 10kVA system on a 5th wheel). Stay tuned

 

[Lt.Dan]

6kw Solar Array???

 

[cinergi]

6kw Solar Array???

Now THAT would be impressive on a 38' rig! Unless I had extendable 'wings'

I'll get 5k up there. Unistrut, FlexArmor, deleting the cassettes and going with indoor wall units ... LOTS of changes. Video when it's done.

 

[Bob B]

Now THAT would be impressive on a 38' rig! Unless I had extendable 'wings'

I'll get 5k up there. Unistrut, FlexArmor, deleting the cassettes and going with indoor wall units ... LOTS of changes. Video when it's done.

I'm curious why your going from Ceiling to wall units? Have you had issues with the ceiling cassettes?

 

[cinergi]

I'm curious why your going from Ceiling to wall units? Have you had issues with the ceiling cassettes?

Yes; they are 4-way (air blows in 4 directions) and the RV is so narrow that 2 directions bounce off the walls and go back into the intake (creates inaccurate temperature reading, wastes cooled air, etc). A wall-mount on a narrow wall will blow the air across the entire room -- much better. I'm also gaining a few things:
* more roof for solar
* no condensate pump (had problems with those, too -- plus water will go to the ground instead of the roof)
* more BTU (which I could have done with the ceiling cassette, too -- but now was the time to make the change); 12k for living area wasn't enough. Going to 18k.
* better temperature sensing (sensors are in the cassette intake -- wildly inaccurate especially while heating; although this can be overcome with wired thermostats)

The bedroom unit was ESPECIALLY bad performance given how small that room is; it would short-cycle (like literally run for < 30 seconds) which destroys the performance of the entire system (meaning: the living room would get warm because the LR performance suffered)

 

[Lt.Dan]

Do you have individual outdoor units? Or is it a multi head unit?

 

[jasonsele]

I got 4100 watts on my roof but used about every space I could.

 

[cinergi]

Do you have individual outdoor units? Or is it a multi head unit?

One 30k ODU, two IDU's (18 and 9) when done.

 

[cinergi]

I got 4100 watts on my roof but used about every space I could.

Looks like 10 410 watt panels? I previously had 10 335's in a similar configuration.

Now the ONLY penetrations on my roof are within a ~2' swath from driver side to passenger side -- plumbing vent, fan for bathroom, and cellular antenna mount / junction box.
I'll be dropping 10 490 watt panels up there - 89" long (41 inches wide) so it spans driver side to passenger side (96") quite well. I'm able to run the strut channels about 58" apart from each other which is exactly in the recommended location for clamping those panels.

 

[Lt.Dan]

So you are laying them width wise? Or 2x side by side, length-wise?

 

[cinergi]

So you are laying them width wise? Or 2x side by side, length-wise?

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(plumbing vent etc)
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[HRTKD]

That's going to be a cool build!

 

[Lt.Dan]

Can't wait! Why the decision to change? Just not enough pv to cover AC/ Heat loads?

 

[cinergi]

Can't wait! Why the decision to change? Just not enough pv to cover AC/ Heat loads?

It started as not having enough BTU for the AC and wanting to change to wall mount for airflow reasons. Then that meant I'd have more room on the roof. And then I got interested in the FlexArmor (lifetime rainproof roof - no way for water to get in with this stuff; and I've had leaks since nearly day 1). so it kinda cascaded from that.
In the summer I usually have just enough solar to keep up. In the winter, not even close. This will add 46% more power! Plus this will now be mounted via strut channel (flexibility to change stuff and service stuff), properly fused and combined, etc. And I'll use this opportunity to get my cellular antenna and related equipment where I want it.

You can see the white coolant lines for the mini split (which is why we had to pull the wall).

 

[HRTKD]

Are the horizontal boards OEM? If so, that's some quality work right there. The yahoos that made my trailer would have just stapled the horizontal boards to the studs.

Did the wall come off neatly? Meaning did you have to destroy it to remove it? I've found that internal panels, once removed, are useless and good luck trying to match it.

 

[Hedges]

RV not house ... this is what jumped out at me:



Although I always avoided them before, I'm warming up to the idea if AFCI breakers.

 

[HRTKD]

And then I got interested in the FlexArmor (lifetime rainproof roof - no way for water to get in with this stuff; and I've had leaks since nearly day 1). so it kinda cascaded from that.

What are the steps for your project? Flex Armor first or struts first? The reason I ask is a friend of mine has a similar roof treatment and the warranty is void if he drills into it. So the PV brackets or strut needed to go down first for him.

 

[cinergi]

What are the steps for your project? Flex Armor first or struts first? The reason I ask is a friend of mine has a similar roof treatment and the warranty is void if he drills into it. So the PV brackets or strut needed to go down first for him.

FlexArmor first. They have special bolts that they secure into the roof and then spray over ... so when they turn it back over to me, I have bolts coming up off the roof that I just lay the strut over and bolt down. The strut remains removable.

 

[Lt.Dan]

FlexArmor first. They have special bolts that they secure into the roof and then spray over ... so when they turn it back over to me, I have bolts coming up off the roof that I just lay the strut over and bolt down. The strut remains removable.

Gonna need a picture of that buddy.

 

[cinergi]

Gonna need a picture of that buddy.

Yup! I'm stalking the people here so I can get a picture when they have them