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Charging a DIY battery from EV charger

was thinking that I could get a 220v to 24v or 48v power supply to feed another MPPT to them.
I am not sure how MPPT would be used here. It is an algorithm to find optimum power from solar panels. I have used power supplies to charge batteries and the important issues are being able to control current, voltage and to shut off at the end of the Constant Voltage (Absorb) stage. You do not want to trickle charge Lithium so turning of at the end of a charge cycle is important. I used a voltage triggered relay but that did not give me a Contant Voltage stage for balancing.
 
Anyone here knows how to build a charging system for 48V lifepo4 battery bank via type2 EV charging station? I would like to be able to by electricity from these charging stations to my camper van battery bank when needed. Is it just a AC to DC charger that knows how to communicate with the charging station? I'm talking about these 11-22kWh AC charging stations, not fast DC charging stations.
 
Anyone here knows how to build a charging system for 48V lifepo4 battery bank via type2 EV charging station? I would like to be able to by electricity from these charging stations to my camper van battery bank when needed. Is it just a AC to DC charger that knows how to communicate with the charging station? I'm talking about these 11-22kWh AC charging stations, not fast DC charging stations.
Getting AC power from type 2 charging station is quite easy, there is even ready made cables that you can use for that

In addition to that you need enough large 48v charger, for example 6x 2000W (2 chargers per phase) would give you max 12kW to charge your 48v battery. Another option would be 3x3000W chargers totalling 9kW, ie 3x something like this https://eauto.si/metron-shop/product/uni-batt-charger/
 
Getting AC power from type 2 charging station is quite easy, there is even ready made cables that you can use for that

In addition to that you need enough large 48v charger, for example 6x 2000W (2 chargers per phase) would give you max 12kW to charge your 48v battery. Another option would be 3x3000W chargers totalling 9kW, ie 3x something like this https://eauto.si/metron-shop/product/uni-batt-charger/
What about the communication with the charge station? Isn't there some short of handshake so the station knows how much current it should give?
 
What about the communication with the charge station? Isn't there some short of handshake so the station knows how much current it should give?
AC charging is more straightforward, charge station is just glorified relay that either turns the AC on or off. (AC charge station doesn't adjust it's output current or voltage, it is either on or off)
Charge station tells maximum possible current with pilot signal pwm and charger inside the car obeys that.

Most chargers are capable at least of 11kW so if you stay below that you don't need to care much about the pilot signal pwm.
 
AC charging is more straightforward, charge station is just glorified relay that either turns the AC on or off. (AC charge station doesn't adjust it's output current or voltage, it is either on or off)
Charge station tells maximum possible current with pilot signal pwm and charger inside the car obeys that.

Most chargers are capable at least of 11kW so if you stay below that you don't need to care much about the pilot signal pwm.
So the charger is enough? Can this be so simple?
 
So the charger is enough? Can this be so simple?
You need 2 resistors, one switch and diode. Or ready made cable like I linked earlier.
 
You need 2 resistors, one switch and diode. Or ready made cable like I linked earlier.
Thanks Matti. I'll look into this.
 
I don't know if the DC fast charging protocols go as low as 48 volts, so that might be a limit as well as your battery capacity.
Level 2 is the equivalent of 100 Amps at 48 volts. That size charger is going to be expensive. How many Amps at 48 volts can your batteries accept?
Had to look this up: DC fast charging goes down to 50 volts so it is itsy bitsy bit too much for 48v system. Maybe juust barely doable for 16S Lifepo4 bank.
17S lifepo4 bank would match and voltage is still under maximum input voltage of for example Victron 48V gear
 
What would I require with my battery set up to accept EV charging with a step-up step- down variable voltage charger power converter that comes with a J1772 connection. It has 4 plugs 2 of which are 240v. Is it too inefficient compared to fast DC?
 
DC fast charging goes down to 50 volts so it is itsy bitsy bit too much for 48v system.
Every 48v battery charges past 50v, so i don't see an inherent issue there.


a step-up step- down variable voltage charger power converter that comes with a J1772 connection. It has 4 plugs 2 of which are 240v.

Could you.. post a link or at least a pic of this thing? ?
 

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My contact is Muneeb 1 385 355 evse.
Support@evseadapters.com
The only person I know that has done this is:
Stokeloafvan.com
They also make a 5,000 version.
My next question would be does anyone know how the Delta Pro does it? They claim charge in 1.7 hours I believe.
 

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That doesn't say a whole lot without knowing how big the battery is or how full it was when you started charging. Just the other morning I charged my Tesla in less than an hour.
:cautious:
Assume near empty and 3600w
 
Nothing unusual about charging a 3600 Watthour battery in 95 minutes. That would be a little over .5C. Not much work for a J1772 interface.
 
My contact there (Socal) is Muneeb 1 385 355 evse. Support@evseadapters.com.

Ok so that thing is a portable center-tap autotransformer aka 'travel converter' with a J1772 receptacle as its power cord, and i guess (i hope?) the j1772 has whatever little resistor spoofs in it to make the EVSE turn on.

But.. that autotransformer is a pretty low power device. I've got two such things and have become familiar with them.

For one thing, the 3000 written on the front, is a watt number for a short duration. If you look at whatever the specs say about 'continuous' loads, it's probably about ~1250w for that thing. At that rate you are not much better off than pulling up next to a building with a regular nema 5-15 outlet on their exterior wall and just plugging into that (other than you actually pay for permission with a charging station..). The ratings have to do with heat buildup. If you actively cool the thing you can go higher. But then you get to the next problem with those..

The receptacles on the front panel. You cannot take 3000w out of any single one of them without melting the receptacle's plastic housing and having your plug get stuck in it and be all nice and discolored when you finally rip it out.

I dont remember seeing what charge rate you are trying to achieve but if you go this route, I would honestly plan on hardwiring your own connector AND doing some kind of active fan cooling if you plan to charge at >1500w for any length of time.

I'm actually using a 5000w version of this type of appliance as the autotransformer providing neutral/120v for my whole house, BUT i am hardwired out of it and added cooling. I also have a 3000w version in my RV that i pretty much only use at <1500w.

Bottom line, though.. EVSE already passes through 240v. If you aren't using the 120v/neutral functionality of this transformer device, it has no reason for existing in your plan and is just costing money and adding failure points.
 
Ok so that thing is a portable center-tap autotransformer aka 'travel converter' with a J1772 receptacle as its power cord, and i guess (i hope?) the j1772 has whatever little resistor spoofs in it to make the EVSE turn on.

But.. that autotransformer is a pretty low power device. I've got two such things and have become familiar with them.

For one thing, the 3000 written on the front, is a watt number for a short duration. If you look at whatever the specs say about 'continuous' loads, it's probably about ~1250w for that thing. At that rate you are not much better off than pulling up next to a building with a regular nema 5-15 outlet on their exterior wall and just plugging into that (other than you actually pay for permission with a charging station..). The ratings have to do with heat buildup. If you actively cool the thing you can go higher. But then you get to the next problem with those..

The receptacles on the front panel. You cannot take 3000w out of any single one of them without melting the receptacle's plastic housing and having your plug get stuck in it and be all nice and discolored when you finally rip it out.

I dont remember seeing what charge rate you are trying to achieve but if you go this route, I would honestly plan on hardwiring your own connector AND doing some kind of active fan cooling if you plan to charge at >1500w for any length of time.

I'm actually using a 5000w version of this type of appliance as the autotransformer providing neutral/120v for my whole house, BUT i am hardwired out of it and added cooling. I also have a 3000w version in my RV that i pretty much only use at <1500w.

Bottom line, though.. EVSE already passes through 240v. If you aren't using the 120v/neutral functionality of this transformer device, it has no reason for existing in your plan and is just costing money and adding failure points.
Thanks for the wakeup call Vigo. They sell a 5000 too but I Ssume the heat problems and inefficiencies are the same. I'm curious about how you use the 3000 in your rv.
 
Ok so that thing is a portable center-tap autotransformer aka 'travel converter' with a J1772 receptacle as its power cord, and i guess (i hope?) the j1772 has whatever little resistor spoofs in it to make the EVSE turn on.

But.. that autotransformer is a pretty low power device. I've got two such things and have become familiar with them.

For one thing, the 3000 written on the front, is a watt number for a short duration. If you look at whatever the specs say about 'continuous' loads, it's probably about ~1250w for that thing. At that rate you are not much better off than pulling up next to a building with a regular nema 5-15 outlet on their exterior wall and just plugging into that (other than you actually pay for permission with a charging station..). The ratings have to do with heat buildup. If you actively cool the thing you can go higher. But then you get to the next problem with those..

The receptacles on the front panel. You cannot take 3000w out of any single one of them without melting the receptacle's plastic housing and having your plug get stuck in it and be all nice and discolored when you finally rip it out.

I dont remember seeing what charge rate you are trying to achieve but if you go this route, I would honestly plan on hardwiring your own connector AND doing some kind of active fan cooling if you plan to charge at >1500w for any length of time.

I'm actually using a 5000w version of this type of appliance as the autotransformer providing neutral/120v for my whole house, BUT i am hardwired out of it and added cooling. I also have a 3000w version in my RV that i pretty much only use at <1500w.

Bottom line, though.. EVSE already passes through 240v. If you aren't using the 120v/neutral functionality of this transformer device, it has no reason for existing in your plan and is just costing money and adding failure points.

Well stated. I'm curious why nobody has suggested their J1772 to NEMA 6-50 Adapter? It's only $80, while the transformer in the step down units are much more expensive and provide failure points as you mentioned. Since the J1772 to 6-50 Adapter is simply 240V out, it allows you to connect any charger you have experience using, and keeps the 50Amp current capability.

Am I missing why this wouldn't be a good solution?
J1772 to NEMA 6-50 Adapter: https://www.evseadapters.com/products/j1772-to-nema-6-50-adapter/
 
My contact is Muneeb 1 385 355 evse.
Support@evseadapters.com
The only person I know that has done this is:
Stokeloafvan.com
They also make a 5,000 version.
My next question would be does anyone know how the Delta Pro does it? They claim charge in 1.7 hours I believe.
We've dissected a Delta Pro...I'm surprised that port doesn't catch on fire. The cable gauge is abysmal!
 
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