diy solar

diy solar

DC Air Conditioner (minisplit/rooftop/anything)



If they ever come down in price the mk2 pulls 10a of 24vdc and is suitable for something like a teardrop if it's well insulated and/or used at night.

Price is pretty nuts though tbh.
I have never seen a single positive review from a legitimate experience, even not considering price. To me it seems like a toy or best suited for a small doghouse. There are several other choices in this BTU range that suggest applications like use in a tent while camping, or outdoors at a picnic. You have to have poop for brains to think that would work.
I just finished putting a GE portable AC in my Honda Odyssey minivan, the one lowes sells for $300, 7100/5000 BTU. Running it off a generator for now, have lifepo4 and solar in the works. I went so far as converting it to dual hose operation and insulating the exhaust hose with semi rigid duct.
I tested it a few hours on a semi warm day, it does work and lowers the temp in the dark grey van. On a real hot day sitting in the sun Im sure Im gonna kick my own ass for pursuing a boondoggle. Both hoses vent out a wooden panel behind the driver in the sliding door, well sealed so the vans AC still works while driving.
 
I am not a manufacturer, but just a mediocre scientist with 13 years experience in Solar... please see to the other thread in this forum:


ACDC 12V/24V air conditioners are battery powered, but LiFePO4 batteries are not included because they are more expensive. When you run AC power by DC electricity, you don't need an inverter, which gives a boondocking and growth potential to your power system.

Regarding Amazon review on the ACDC 12V air conditioner, please check the previous link (since ACDC 24V is new on the market):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DHP82LG
Would there be any advantage in the 24v air conditioner vice the 12v air conditioner?? I'm guessing this item would cost $700-$800 on Alibaba.
 
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Would there be any advantage in the 24v air conditioner vice the 12v air conditioner??
Less current for the same wattage means smaller wires and usually cheaper devices.

But it's probably not worth it until your total system wattage reaches a certain point usually.
 
regular DC Motors usually have not as much torque as 3 phase AC Motors. That it something you need with a compressor. The Compressor has to overcome a valve or some sort of metering device.

For Fan - yes there is nothing which is really stopping a fan while ramping up. So a fan motor works perfectly with PWM DC.

Almost all electric cars have 3 phase AC motors for that reason. You can go PWM DC, but usually you need then a gearbox to get the motor into higher RPM for them to have sufficient torque.

I don't know if we are using the correct terminology here - maybe that 3 conductor "AC" motors are truly "pulsed DC" or however it's correctly called.

2 DC conductor go into a controller(inverter) - and 3 conductors go to motor. I don't know what exactly the power looks on those 3.
Even if you pulse dc its still not ac. every pulse needs to reverse polarity for it to be a/c.
 
Jesus.

That's really shooting for the stars. 100a max draw.

Variable speed is good though. Probably be a nice unit after the sticker shock.
That sticker shock is less than I thought it would be! For 20k BTU, im kind of impressed. Too bad its only 12v. Who wants to run 0AWG like 30 feet to their roof? Im guessing this is more for Sprinter Van's etc.
 
That sticker shock is less than I thought it would be! For 20k BTU, im kind of impressed. Too bad its only 12v. Who wants to run 0AWG like 30 feet to their roof? Im guessing this is more for Sprinter Van's etc.
Well. Yeah. The form factor is a huge plus.

I could actually stick that condenser underneath my tiny little mypod, for example. Or so says the listing anyways. If I fill the tongue box with batteries it would almost be worth it.
 
Lt.Dan

Here is the 48 volt version of the same unit.... https://www.premierproducts.net/order/premier-air/turbo-2-12v-and-48v.html
along with power usage and temp delta... and heat chamber test which I don't quite understand. Recpro is only selling the 12 volt version
That's awesome, with very nice graphs. I can't find very much information on actual running watts compared to other units!!

I sent them a long email with many questions, but it being Friday, I expect to not hear back until Monday.
 
That sticker shock is less than I thought it would be! For 20k BTU, im kind of impressed. Too bad its only 12v. Who wants to run 0AWG like 30 feet to their roof? Im guessing this is more for Sprinter Van's etc.
AWG 2 should be sufficient for 100A To be safe you can use AWG 1. no need for AWG 0

I've seen some people just use 2x 6 gauge parallel for easier handling.

Definitely not the easiest to wire, but I just saw a way - I can run the Wire inside the A/C ducting - at the front and the back of RV the ducts are terminating inside cabinets.

Inside the ducts would be even easier to run a thinner wire - since it's cooled :p
 
AWG 2 should be sufficient for 100A To be safe you can use AWG 1. no need for AWG 0

I've seen some people just use 2x 6 gauge parallel for easier handling.

Definitely not the easiest to wire, but I just saw a way - I can run the Wire inside the A/C ducting - at the front and the back of RV the ducts are terminating inside cabinets.

Inside the ducts would be even easier to run a thinner wire - since it's cooled :p
2 ga is still a decent amount of wire, plus the cost of the wire!

If I had to run 2ga all the way to my back ac, from my battery compartment, thats probably a good 50-55 feet, now thats a lot of wire!!

But if the 48v model works out, then I'll only need to run 10ga/8ga, which is much much cheaper and easier!
 
2 ga is still a decent amount of wire, plus the cost of the wire!

If I had to run 2ga all the way to my back ac, from my battery compartment, thats probably a good 50-55 feet, now thats a lot of wire!!

But if the 48v model works out, then I'll only need to run 10ga/8ga, which is much much cheaper and easier!
when you spend $3-5k on a A/C and Batteries to run it - spending $50-100 additional for wires shouldn't be the issue :p

I would love a 24V or 48v system,
 
when you spend $3-5k on a A/C and Batteries to run it - spending $50-100 additional for wires shouldn't be the issue :p

I would love a 24V or 48v system,
Man. I keep looking at trying to cram 1800w on top of a trailer to run a mini split and inductive cooktop (future project I want to do with my girlfriend) and everything just keeps coming back to 24-48v being the cheapest option altogether, including running a bigger inverter for said mini split.

Especially when you consider how much roof space it takes up that could just be solar panels instead lol
 
FWIW I bought a nomadic 4000 48V unit (they don't even sell it anymore). Probably the worst possible experience possible with the A/C, but OK-ish support from nomadic.

Quick summary (The meh)
  • The "48V" unit is actually a 24V with a stepdown
  • Its loud as fuck
  • It doesn't have an eco-mode or anything like it
  • The fan always stays on (drawing ~3-5A from my 48V pack) when the AC is on. Even when target temp is reached (compressor does turn off though)
  • The included installation bracket was for the 3K unit
  • One of the fiberglass cover drill holes doesn't allign with the bolt, so I had to re-drill it myself
The ugly
  • The unit has a strong + loud electrical buzz, I am 90% sure its the stepdown, but it could be from the compressor. I can hear this over the fan
  • The unit DOES NOT DRAIN built up condensation, and ended up spewing a massive amount of water into my van, over my inverter an other stuff after about 75 minutes of use. You can feel on the drain ports a strong vaccuum, keeping the water from leaving. As soon as I turn off the fan tons of water comes rushing out. I worked with the nomadic guys on many fixes, included drilling additional drain holes, drilling more airflow holes in the coil box, etc. This was never resolved.
    • This is in mild ~80 degrees PNW weather. Not even in Florida.
The good
  • It blows a lot of air?

After the ~5th time in 2 weeks it spewed water in my van (even with me trying to turn it off hourly for ~5 minutes to allow it to drain) we decided to just take up their offer on a full refund, and are going to try a different AC.

In summary I would heavily not recommend the 4000 unit, which I doubt they sell anymore. I personally am not willin to try the 3000 due to the issues with this unit. For now I will just buy a dometic RTX 2000, and re-evalute the DC airconditioner market in a year or something.
 
Do you mind copying me or sharing the email. My email is rob at rwl. NET
I am very likely buying two once I get a little more info.
I am conversing with them through email now, but I'll try and just share all the information on here for everyone to have. So far, this is a very nice unit.
 
I am conversing with them through email now, but I'll try and just share all the information on here for everyone to have. So far, this is a very nice unit.
Wow, they actually got back to you? I have two emails, a phone call, and questions to a member in another thread to someone that claims to say “my company”, please reach out, and nothing in response.
But, you are right, it does seem to have some good specs and I have found Coachman Galeria videos that seem to prove it to be quiet. Not sure on the power consumption because in the videos, they say ‘ look at the low draw! But the solar is on’
Damnit , turn the solar off and show us what the unit is drawing!!!!!
All a moot point for me as as much as I would like a 12 volt native system, it won’t fit between my solar panels, skyline, and roof vents.
recpro.com seems to only be selling the 12 volt version. It comes from premierproducts.net They have a 48 volt version on their site but they are the ones that have been unresponsive to me.

I think I’m back to a mini split
 
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