diy solar

diy solar

Designing heating and cooling for a new build.

If you have wood, and need the heating requirements in winter: wood gasification burner coupled to radiant with a large buffer tank. It probably doesn't get as cold there as it does where I am, so you can use a lot less wood or last longer on a full buffer. If you then have excess solar, you can use the heat pump (geothermal or air based) coupled to the same buffer tank. The good thing with having a wood option: I case of an emergency (imagine: all power down) I could run my entire heating system off of a couple of lead acid car batteries for days.

Of course, a regular high efficiency wood stove (or even better, a masonry fireplace) would be good to have too in addition. No power required, and the built in oven in mine allows for cooking food in case things go very very wrong...
 
If you have wood, and need the heating requirements in winter: wood gasification burner coupled to radiant with a large buffer tank. It probably doesn't get as cold there as it does where I am, so you can use a lot less wood or last longer on a full buffer. If you then have excess solar, you can use the heat pump (geothermal or air based) coupled to the same buffer tank. The good thing with having a wood option: I case of an emergency (imagine: all power down) I could run my entire heating system off of a couple of lead acid car batteries for days.

Of course, a regular high efficiency wood stove (or even better, a masonry fireplace) would be good to have too in addition. No power required, and the built in oven in mine allows for cooking food in case things go very very wrong...
I understand advantages of wood. But I’m looking for the convenience of not having to deal with it as I am getting older. I’ll probably over build with PV and batteries. The area I’m looking at rarely gets below freezing.
 
I have sawed, split and carried enough firewood for a lifetime in my earlier life ^^
I will not touch the stuff again for my part.
Water heating and solar power: Welcome :cool:
 
I completed a 2500 sq ft house in west Arkansas near Ft Smith about a year ago. I installed a Water Furnace 4 ton Geo Thermal HVAC system with 2 zones. It works great with a Sol-Ark 15K, 6.5 KW solar array, and 15KWH batteries. I think Arkansas does not get cold enough to be worth the expense of radiant flooring. The HVAC has variable speed compressor and fans; it starts with low current draw and ramps up slowly to heat and cool the house. so it works great with an inverter. It is a heat pump; it really works by moving heat back and forth between the 4 wells in the ground which are around 60 degrees all year round and the house. Since the house is generally set around 70 degrees you only have about a 10 degree difference between ground and house. A rather small amount of energy is required to move this small amount of heat. I generally see around 10 amps being required to run the HVAC. These numbers move around depending on the conditions, but the system has proven itself cheap to operate with little added complexity. It is also very quiet.

The tax credits pretty much made up the difference in cost between ground and high efficiency air sourced systems. Drilling the wells for the water loops was really biggest cost difference between ground and air sourced systems, but as I said the tax credits pretty much took care of that. The drilling of 4 200 ft wells took a couple of days, but drilling company brought in a rigg that did the job in about 2 days. Another thing to consider is that there are no components sitting outside in the weather so less over all wear and tear.
 
I completed a 2500 sq ft house in west Arkansas near Ft Smith about a year ago. I installed a Water Furnace 4 ton Geo Thermal HVAC system with 2 zones. It works great with a Sol-Ark 15K, 6.5 KW solar array, and 15KWH batteries. I think Arkansas does not get cold enough to be worth the expense of radiant flooring. The HVAC has variable speed compressor and fans; it starts with low current draw and ramps up slowly to heat and cool the house. so it works great with an inverter. It is a heat pump; it really works by moving heat back and forth between the 4 wells in the ground which are around 60 degrees all year round and the house. Since the house is generally set around 70 degrees you only have about a 10 degree difference between ground and house. A rather small amount of energy is required to move this small amount of heat. I generally see around 10 amps being required to run the HVAC. These numbers move around depending on the conditions, but the system has proven itself cheap to operate with little added complexity. It is also very quiet.

The tax credits pretty much made up the difference in cost between ground and high efficiency air sourced systems. Drilling the wells for the water loops was really biggest cost difference between ground and air sourced systems, but as I said the tax credits pretty much took care of that. The drilling of 4 200 ft wells took a couple of days, but drilling company brought in a rigg that did the job in about 2 days. Another thing to consider is that there are no components sitting outside in the weather so less over all wear and tear.
Curious, did they run it through your hot water tank too? They did mine and claim it really helps. Just bought a massive 188gal tub and it fills up 3/4 before running out then heats up pretty fast.
 
Yes, the HVAC is connected to the water heater. Some of the excess heat produced by HVAC is pumped into the water heater. To take the max advantage of this feature you need to consider the hot water heater you use. I decided to go all electric for my house so used a Rheem Marathon 105 gallon high efficiency hot water heater (well insulated as well). It works well, there is excess heat generated in both winter and summer, so the hot water heater seldom kicks on except when taking a shower. During spring and fall when HVAC is not being used much it turns on more often.
 
Yes, the HVAC is connected to the water heater. Some of the excess heat produced by HVAC is pumped into the water heater. To take the max advantage of this feature you need to consider the hot water heater you use. I decided to go all electric for my house so used a Rheem Marathon 105 gallon high efficiency hot water heater (well insulated as well). It works well, there is excess heat generated in both winter and summer, so the hot water heater seldom kicks on except when taking a shower. During spring and fall when HVAC is not being used much it turns on more often.
Sweet glad it's working well. I actually recently picked up one of those Rheem marathon eclipse 75 gals for a vacation property I haven't installed yet. Seems like a great unit since all plastic and super insulated.
 
Yep, so no glass liner to crack, plastic outside so no rust and serious insulation. Works great it draws 4.8 KW when it on though, still easily with capacity of the solar system I have.
 
Hey Oz, Im probably not to far from you. Yea, not allot of deep soil in the Ozarks for putting in ground loops.
I'm south of Joplin. Yes, you'd certainly want to do a geotech of your site before trying to install a slinky loop. I know a guy that started to home build one not that far from me and ended with his loop just inches deep in many places. Backhoe couldn't bust the rock up but he chose to march forward anyway. It was a failure, sadly.

The tax credits pretty much made up the difference in cost between ground and high efficiency air sourced systems. Drilling the wells for the water loops was really biggest cost difference between ground and air sourced systems, but as I said the tax credits pretty much took care of that.
Do you mind sharing the pricing (rough is fine)? Your experience differs from mine but it could be a regional thing.

For me Geo was almost 3x times more than conventional HP. $23 vs $8k. ~$6,900 tax credit didn't even come close to making up the difference for me until Obama did the ARRA program which paid for 50% PLUS the federal tax credit on the FULL amount. I ended up with less than $4k in my GEO, a 2 ton 2 stage system that rarely needs 2nd stage for my high mass 2500ft2 ICF home.

The well's alone for mine cost $15k. That was almost 15 years ago and regulations have only tightened down since then. Several well drillers were shut down by the state for repeated violations leaving only a few and they are 6 months to a year out.

From my view point, you could buy several mini-splits today and then again in 10 years plus a lot of solar panels for that kind of money.
 
To add to my earlier input... One of the things many people forget is that while it makes good sense to plan the SIZE of your system for the coldest days (you don't ever want to be cold in your own home), it may not make sense to plan the TYPE of system around that. I know folks who complain about the cost of their minisplit running when it's -15F here, and yes, it is a lot more than when it's 20F or 25F. But even here in Maine (midcoast/central) we get only a few days - now, often as little as ~72 hours spread over the winter - of sub zero weather each year. So for the vast majority of the time, and certainly overall, the minisplit is the clear winner for anything other than wood heat, which as others have noted is a giant pain in the rear, or geothermal, which had a vey large upfront capital cost that can take up to three decades to recoup, if ever. If you do the math, the cost of capturing, concentrating, and moving heat (what a mini split actually does) is almost always lower than burning something to generate it, and then having to distribute that heat. Wood is still cheaper if you do the math, but I doubt that will remain the case for much longer, and if you already have enough PV installed, it's not the case at all.

Re: infloor radiant (often hydronic) heat, it's fantastic to feel that heat on your toes, and it's very efficient in terms of distributing heat. But in a high-performance building (great air sealing, very well insulated), the rate of heat loss from the building is almost always so low that the floor doesn't need to give off much heat. The result is that it feels essentially like room temperature, rather than warm. It's still great as a heat distribution method, but you don't normally get that wonderful "warm toes" feeling. Also, for the person who said their radiant heat was excessively expensive, this is almost always a result of an uninsulated (or at least very poorly insulated) slab. That's a design/builder problem, as failing to insulate a slab in all but the warmest US climate zones means you are using the earth as a heat sink, and your HVAC is now trying to warm the earth itself. There is no good fix for that other than turning it off and installing another type of heat.

Finally, in the US, air to water heat pumps (mini splits) still cost considerably more than air to air versions of the same basic technology. So while air to water is more efficient in terms of heat storage and distribution, the recent improvements in the performance of air to air heat pump technology, combined with the upfront cost differences between these two types of units, can be difficult to overcome. One of my best friends is an HVAC wholesaler for multiple top tier brands, and as we plan our new home he is very clearly steering me to air to air mini splits. We can install anything, but for a home with great sun exposure, good air sealing and insulation, and a decent amount of PV, the math says air to air mini split from a proven, reliable manufacturer.
 
First priority is a tight house with good insulation and vapor barrier
I agree with the tight house comment... This is a plan/technique that pays dividends forever. I built a new house last year and used foam insulation with a conditioned attic. Granted, my climate here in Central Texas is more extreme on the hot side, and obviously way less extreme on the cold side so it may be different in Arkansas, but my AC/Heat pumps (17 seer variable speed) don't work very hard to keep the house comfortable. I don't regret installing solar but dropping $20k (DIY) on solar to dodge my $100 electrical bill doesn't seem to make as much sense as it did when I planned it out based off my old house's power consumption. On the other hand, with the 30kwh of battery backup I never know when the grid is out, so I love that aspect.
 
Re: infloor radiant (often hydronic) heat, it's fantastic to feel that heat on your toes, and it's very efficient in terms of distributing heat. But in a high-performance building (great air sealing, very well insulated), the rate of heat loss from the building is almost always so low that the floor doesn't need to give off much heat. The result is that it feels essentially like room temperature, rather than warm.
Story time: When we first moved into our new (built and designed by me which may good or bad) high efficiency house with radiant in floor my family commented that they thought the floors would be warmer. Like any good dad I bypssed the outdoor reset that was doing a great job of satisying all the spaces with 88f degree water. I turned it up to 105 and left for work. When I came home the family were all in shorts complaining about being too hot and had even cracked a few windows. That was the end of that. LOL Our floors aren't warm per se but they certainly aren't cold which is very nice.

For most, radiant in floor is a luxury since you still need complete cooling system. Some talk about pumping cool water in the floor but that's not possible in many climates since you still have a system to dehumidify.
 
For most, radiant in floor is a luxury since you still need complete cooling system. Some talk about pumping cool water in the floor but that's not possible in many climates since you still have a system to dehumidify.

If you have a sealed modern house you'll need an HRC/ERC system anyway, which serves that purpose.
 
OK, as far as insulation, regular fiberglass or pay the extra for a professionally done sprayed foam?
 
OK, as far as insulation, regular fiberglass or pay the extra for a professionally done sprayed foam?
Spray foam is definitely better, if it fits in your budget.
It insulates an helps with the air tight sealing.
 
OK, as far as insulation, regular fiberglass or pay the extra for a professionally done sprayed foam?
Fiberglass bats are the dumbest insulation ever, spray foam is the way to go whether you can afford it or not because you really can't afford not to use it.
 
OK, as far as insulation, regular fiberglass or pay the extra for a professionally done sprayed foam?
The best solution is external insulation. I would recommend looking at Matt Risinger's videos on the perfect wall system and some other info on the subject. https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDYh81z-RhxgCk1qJD6AJktVHZH7-BLSR

There are a lot of things out there, but an R9 exterior insulating sheathing board plus rockwool in the wall studs is about as good as it gets.
 
If you have a sealed modern house you'll need an HRC/ERC system anyway, which serves that purpose.
I have never heard of HRC/ERC. Google didn't help.

Perhaps you are referring to HRV/ERV? Those can help with high indoor humidity in the winter but as far I know (which isn't far) they aren't dehumidifiers nor can they move humidity from inside a house when it's already more humid outside than inside.

Or maybe you're referring to something else entirely?
 
Perhaps you are referring to HRV/ERV?

Yes, typo - too tired...

Yeah, if you're dealing very with high humidity, you need a dehumidifier. However with an ERV (not HRV) you do exchange humidity in cooling dominated climates, making the air you pull in less humid. An ERV pre-cools the incoming air.
 
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