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DIY 'Chargenectifier'

This is the link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003755306962.html

By the way, they should all be the same, just the default voltage is programmed. You can overwrite that through CAN and make a different voltage 'permanent'.
Great. Just went ahead and ordered the 50.0V model.

This should provide the 48V ‘battery keeper’ function I need without modification.

I’ll eventually want a ‘smart dumpload’ to absorb solar export but I’ve got plenty of time for that and I don’t know how much of a hairball controlling CANBUS from a PLC will prove to be (for me, that is).
 
By the way, for completeness: in case you don't get the adapter board with the CAN lines (I did with mine, but just in case) you can get one here:

Thanks. Remind me again what platform / controller you are using to communicate with CAN? A laptop?
 
Laptop, R-Pi and a Wyse 3040 to name a few. CAN USB adapter I use: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B0BQ5G3KLR or similar.
Thanks.

For real-time control of charge current, R-Pi would probably be best but that’s a platform I haven’t tried yet.

Laptop is great for reprogramming but not something I’d want to count on for industrial real-time control.

Pity no one sells a MODBUS to CANBUS converter (or a PLC that speaks CANBUS)…
 
There are some industrial modules like the GCAN-204 which you can then use from a PLC. I think it goes for around $200 or so on EBay.
Hmmm, worth considering, I suppose. May finally try to dive into the world of RPi and save the GCAN-204 as a fall-back solution…
 
Is there anything at all like this in 12V-land? It'd be amazing to have an affordable charger with programmable voltage/current--emphasis on affordable!

I asked in another thread, and someone suggested Victron Skylla, but it's about 5x what I'd like to pay. An RV converter on a smart wifi socket would almost fit the bill, but lacks a way to remotely control the charge current. 12V SPS like the Mean Well LRS-350-12 are affordable, but can only reach circa 14.2V, which isn't quite enough to achieve full output, especially when the battery is nearly full.

I wouldn't mind a bit of hacking and/or soldering. Any ideas?
 
Is there anything at all like this in 12V-land? It'd be amazing to have an affordable charger with programmable voltage/current--emphasis on affordable!

You can look for an Emerson/Vertiv NetSure R12-3000, which is a 12V version of the rectifier I have. That said, the pin-out is different, so not sure about an adapter/connector for it and not sure about the CAN interface. There should be other modules like this available on 12V...
 
You can look for an Emerson/Vertiv NetSure R12-3000, which is a 12V version of the rectifier I have. That said, the pin-out is different, so not sure about an adapter/connector for it and not sure about the CAN interface. There should be other modules like this available on 12V...

At first glance, that looks like an absolute steal @ $65 on eBay! But specs seem to indicate the output voltage maxes out at 13.2V (and non-adjustable high-voltage shutdown at 14V), which is basically useless for LFP. I'd assume the same issue would exist at 48V nominal... What chemistry are you guys using?
 
As far as I have tested, it accepts floating points just like the voltage. You could set 10.5% for example.
I will try to make some test set-up to get more details...
I’ll be in a position to know soon enough (~1 month?) but just thought I would check whether you’ve learned anything more for my planning purposes.

I purchased the 50.0V 3000W model.

In terms of the ‘10% to 121%’ range, I’m assuming 121% = 3000W (so 100% = 2479.34W) but would appreciate to understand whether you’ve had a chance to confirm that.

If that is correct and my 50.0V unit comes programmed for 100% power, that should correspond to 2479.34W or 49.6A max charging current @ 50.0V.

And by reprogramming from the default of 100% to the minimum of 10%, charge current can be reduced to a minimum of 4.96A (247.93W).

The other thing I wanted to clarify was this statement:

“upnorthandpersonal” said:
The output current is set in percent to the rated value of the rectifier from 10% to 121%.
These settings (voltage and current) can either be permanent, or while the command is repeated in a temporary fashion. That is, you can send a command, it will keep the settings of that command while you keep sending that command every couple of seconds or so. When you stop sending it, the original setting will be used after 30 seconds.

It sounds as though there are ‘base / default’ settings and ‘temporary / turbo’ settings for both voltage and current.

Do you know whether there are restrictions on changing the base / default settings such as only changing them when the unit is not charging or is powered off?

My unit should come preprogrammed for 50.0V and (I’m assuming) 100% and I can use it as is to ‘keep’ my 48V battery floating at 50.0V (or above) overnight.

Overnight load averages 333WDC, so if I am unhappy with any instability I see charging at 100% / 2479.34W / 50A I can change the default setting for 13.5% / 334.7W / 6.7A.

During daylight hours when I want to use the charger to absorb excess export into the battery, I will need to increase charge voltage to 57.6V (or whatever the max is) and modify the ‘temporary / turbo’ charge current settings in real time to absorb the required AC power.

Charge current settings will be modified in under 30 seconds, so I don’t need to worry about timing out to default / base setting.

But I’m curious if you have an opinion as to whether it’s going to make more sense to continuously use both temporary charge and voltage overwrites throughout this daytime ‘absorb AC’ phase or it would be better to change the ‘permanent’ voltage setting twice per day and only modulate the temporary / turbo charge power % setting in real-time?
 
It takes floating values, so the example I used (10.5%) works.
Temporary values are valid for 30 seconds. You need to repeat the CAN message, e.g. at 15 second intervals to maintain the temporary value. If you want to set a new value that is 'fixed', i.e. is maintained even after power off, you just change a single byte in the command (0x21 for temporary, 0x24 if fixed - check the code)
 
I've been watching this topic for a while. Hoping to try something similar with the R24-3000 units (just ordered two) for my 24v system since it will be significantly cheaper (like a 10th the cost) compared with adding more Victron Multipluses ( or is that "Multii"? "Multiply"? :LOL:) for faster generator charging.

Will report back when I make progress...
 
Ok, one of them arrived (the one I ordered from that Aliexpress seller). I've not tested it extensively, but it seems to work fine. Voltage output is correct as per the selected one on the store. I'll hook it up to a battery soon-ish, and start playing with the CAN interface.

What's the heat on these units like? Are runnings for a prolonged time?

I'm looking to run 4 of these and always run my inverters in SBU mode, using the rectifiers as grid feed in, get's around a few problems for me.
 
Considering that these are highly efficient and intended to use in data centers, they don't produce a lot of heat. Now, I've only run it for some hours during testing at pretty high load (80%+) and they remain cool (in part because of the fan - very noisy, but lots of airflow). Only next winter I will be able to do a prolonged test (12 hours or so continuous at close to 100% load).
 
Considering that these are highly efficient and intended to use in data centers, they don't produce a lot of heat. Now, I've only run it for some hours during testing at pretty high load (80%+) and they remain cool (in part because of the fan - very noisy, but lots of airflow). Only next winter I will be able to do a prolonged test (12 hours or so continuous at close to 100% load).
Have you ever measured charging efficiency?

If you do get around to doing any characterization this winter, I’m also interested in whether charging efficiency increases or decreases as charge power is reduced.

I need to charge at 333W overnight but have the choice of either running at 333W for 12 hours continuous or at 3kW for an 11.1% / 6.7 minute duty cycle out of every hour (or anything in between).
 
These rectifiers have a peak efficiency of 95.5%. The datasheet has a graph which shows efficiency vs power and shows that efficiency drops at lower power output:


Max efficiency sits around 70% load or thereabout.
Fantastic, thanks.

89% efficiency at 10% up to 95.5% efficiency between 60-70%.

If 100% = the full 3000W and not 2500W (3000W @ 120%), that means optimal efficiency between 1800-2100W and charging at that power with a ~16% duty cycle might be worth it to reduce inefficiency losses by half.

But even 90% efficiency at 11% / 333W is no worse than the average charger, so the additional complexity may not be worth it…
 
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Hoping to try something similar with the R24-3000 units (just ordered two) for my 24v system

I received the units and today I started looking into what it might take to hook them up.

Sadly they have these fairly esoteric connectors:

1688146829079.png

The R24-2500 units on Ebay have this sticker on them and I'm guessing the pinout is the same:

1688146893094.png

As for trying to actually source those connectors, I opened one of my units up and found the following numbers on the connectors:
  • 3 pin (AC in) connector: SCED TP950H
    1688147252293.png
  • 9 pin (DC out / data - only 8 pins are populated) connector: JONHON CZ35A-9T
    1688147214982.png
I think the AC in connector can be found on Alibaba here, but I haven't found a source for the DC/data connector yet.

Anyone got any tips?
 
I received the units and today I started looking into what it might take to hook them up.

Sadly they have these fairly esoteric connectors:

View attachment 155134

The R24-2500 units on Ebay have this sticker on them and I'm guessing the pinout is the same:

View attachment 155135

As for trying to actually source those connectors, I opened one of my units up and found the following numbers on the connectors:
I think the AC in connector can be found on Alibaba here, but I haven't found a source for the DC/data connector yet.

Anyone got any tips?
As you progress on your quest, let me know if you find several connectors cost about the same as one. I’m ready to purchase 2 in a bulk buy with you (and may even buy enough to have one extra for you if that’s all you want).

Often, with these very cheap and very light component orders from AliExpress, shipping cost dominates (whether visible or not) so the price for 3-4 is not much more than the price for one…

Actually, just realized you have a 24V unit which will have higher DC current than my 48V unit, so I should hold off on acquiring any DC connectors until I receive my unit (may be different than yours).

AC connector should be identical though, so my offer still stands there…
 
As you progress on your quest, let me know if you find several connectors cost about the same as one. I’m ready to purchase 2 in a bulk buy with you (and may even buy enough to have one extra for you if that’s all you want).

Often, with these very cheap and very light component orders from AliExpress, shipping cost dominates (whether visible or not) so the price for 3-4 is not much more than the price for one…

That's a nice thought, but I'm skeptical the pricing vs shipping cost would work out to be extreme enough to justify the time/effort of forwarding them on. I'll keep it in mind though. :)

Actually, just realized you have a 24V unit which will have higher DC current than my 48V unit, so I should hold off on acquiring any DC connectors until I receive my unit (may be different than yours).

AC connector should be identical though, so my offer still stands there…

Yeah, I think the DC/data connector is different for the R48-#### units...


From a little searching it seems like the R48-4000 unit has this connector:

1688154064333.png

Which looks similar to this one on Alibaba. (The power connector looks similar though.)


While the R48-3000 unit seems to have this connector:

1688154104097.png

Which you can get an adapter for here or here.
 
That's a nice thought, but I'm skeptical the pricing vs shipping cost would work out to be extreme enough to justify the time/effort of forwarding them on. I'll keep it in mind though. :)



Yeah, I think the DC/data connector is different for the R48-#### units...


From a little searching it seems like the R48-4000 unit has this connector:

View attachment 155168

Which looks similar to this one on Alibaba. (The power connector looks similar though.)


While the R48-3000 unit seems to have this connector:

View attachment 155169

Which you can get an adapter for here or here.
I’ve got the R48-3000 on the way, so thanks for this - I’ll pick up one of the adapters on eBay if one is not included.
 

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