Eg4 6000XP generator charging limits

[Hootis]

I am considering the EG4 6000XP for our 5th wheel. The system will have 10kwh of battery and 3600w of solar. We rarely are able to connect to grid power. We prefer to run a small generator (Honda EU2000i) infrequently for topping batteries when the weather won’t cooperate. The 5th wheel also has a built-in 4000w Kohler generator….single phase only. Does the 6000XP have a setting to limit the grid demand….in this case to 15 amps?

Another user said the 6000XP requires 240vac (both legs of split phase) to charge. Is this correct? If so….this inverter will likely not be appropriate for my use. Does anyone have another suggestion? My original plan was to use 2 Victron MultiPlus 3000 in a split phase setup…possibly with an autotransformer.

My loads are primarily single phase (microwave, refrigerator, water heater, etc.) and my only split phase load is a 2 ton mini split.

 

[G00SE]

You could use a chargeverter to your batteries instead of the AC in of the inverter
It does create an additional expense

 

[Hootis]

I am considering the EG4 6000XP for our 5th wheel. The system will have 10kwh of battery and 3600w of solar. We rarely are able to connect to grid power. We prefer to run a small generator (Honda EU2000i) infrequently for topping batteries when the weather won’t cooperate. Does the 6000XP have a setting to limit the grid demand….in this case to 15 amps?

You could use a chargeverter to your batteries instead of the AC in of the inverter
It does create an additional expense

Good suggestion!

 

[Zapper77]

I agree CV gives you a lot of flexibility.

The 6000XP requires a 240 generator.

 

[Vigo]

Another option, IF you can limit your ac-in consumption to avoid overloading the 2000w generator (not likely, sadly), is to run the generator output through a 'travel converter' (aka hand-portable small autotransformer) to step it up from 120 to 240. An appropriately sized one is about $100 on Amazon. But there are caveats to it, mostly that i doubt the inverter has a setting to limit the ac input.

I agree that the easiest thing is just to buy a 120vac to 48v charge source like a Chargeverter or some other 48v battery charger.

 

[Kylepharmd]

run the generator output through a 'travel converter' (aka hand-portable small autotransformer) to step it up from 120 to 240’

I think I have something like this now. I have the Honda 2000 little generator that I connect to the main panel of my house via a transfer switch when we have outages. At the generator I have a short cable that essentially divides the generator output into two legs (although they are in phase with each other, not like true split phase). We call it a ‘jumper’ here in Puerto Rico, but it sounds like the travel converter you mention. When we do this we just make sure to turn off any 220V appliance breakers on the panel to protect those appliances that need true split phase, but it allows us to use outlets/lights/etc on both legs of the house.

Currently no solar or batteries here, but I’m thinking about doing a solar/battery system with the 6000XP. What I’m wondering is if I can use the same converter to be able to charge the batteries through the 6000XP generator connection. The two questions I have are:

1. Does the 6000XP need to true split phase (with the legs at 180 deg. out of phase) or if the ‘jumper’ would be okay. I don’t think the manual really specifies, although it does obviously say you need more than 2000W…
2. That brings me to my second question - I could completely disconnect the load if needed when using the generator to charge the batteries. However, I’m not sure if the 6000XP would still try to pull too much current from the generator to just charge the batteries alone that it would overload the generator or something.

I realize the CV is probably the “better option”, but just wondering if I can avoid the additional expense for the time being.

 

[Zapper77]

1. Yes, it requires a true 240v (120v Split-phase)
2. See above.

Sounds like you would need a 120v charger.

 

[Zapper77]

I think I have something like this now. I have the Honda 2000 little generator that I connect to the main panel of my house via a transfer switch when we have outages. At the generator I have a short cable that essentially divides the generator output into two legs (although they are in phase with each other, not like true split phase). We call it a ‘jumper’ here in Puerto Rico, but it sounds like the travel converter you mention. When we do this we just make sure to turn off any 220V appliance breakers on the panel to protect those appliances that need true split phase, but it allows us to use outlets/lights/etc on both legs of the house.

Currently no solar or batteries here, but I’m thinking about doing a solar/battery system with the 6000XP. What I’m wondering is if I can use the same converter to be able to charge the batteries through the 6000XP generator connection. The two questions I have are:

1. Does the 6000XP need to true split phase (with the legs at 180 deg. out of phase) or if the ‘jumper’ would be okay. I don’t think the manual really specifies, although it does obviously say you need more than 2000W…
2. That brings me to my second question - I could completely disconnect the load if needed when using the generator to charge the batteries. However, I’m not sure if the 6000XP would still try to pull too much current from the generator to just charge the batteries alone that it would overload the generator or something.

I realize the CV is probably the “better option”, but just wondering if I can avoid the additional expense for the time being.

With a 2,000 watt generator...you would be limited to 24-30 amps DC charging. You can buy the 18 Amp 48v charger. Honestly buying the CV would provide greater flexibility

 

[Kylepharmd]

Yes, it requires a true 240v (120v Split-phase)

Great - thanks for confirming!

 

[JasonHaws]

I agree CV gives you a lot of flexibility.

The 6000XP requires a 240 generator.

When I called Signature Solar regarding the input voltage they said I could connect 120v or 240v split phase and referred to the manual that shows Nominal AC Voltage of "120-240". Is that incorrect? If so, do you know why that wouldn't work? I ONLY plan on running single phase loads as my RV doesn't have any split phase demands.

 

[Zapper77]

When I called Signature Solar regarding the input voltage they said I could connect 120v or 240v split phase and referred to the manual that shows Nominal AC Voltage of "120-240". Is that incorrect? If so, do you know why that wouldn't work? I ONLY plan on running single phase loads as my RV doesn't have any split phase demands.

I'll go test this now. Crossing fingers ?. Hoping for no smoke!

 

[JasonHaws]

I'll go test this now. Crossing fingers ?. Hoping for no smoke!

You are the BEST!!!! If it doesn't work, I'll be forced to add a Chargeverter to the equation.

Also....just subscribed to your youtube channel!

 

[Zapper77]

You are the BEST!!!! If it doesn't work, I'll be forced to add a Chargeverter to the equation.

Also....just subscribed to your youtube channel!

Sorry, didn't work. Inverter only sees 60v per leg, which is below the threshold to connect. I tried single leg in the past with the same results. I'll throw the video up on YouTube in a few minutes.

 

[JasonHaws]

Sorry, didn't work. Inverter only sees 60v per leg, which is below the threshold to connect. I tried single leg in the past with the same results. I'll throw the video up on YouTube in a few minutes.

Ok. Last try...Does the XP have an option to change the EPS Voltage to 120V Single Phase? If it does, would that change the outcome?

 

[Zapper77]

Ok. Last try...Does the XP have an option to change the EPS Voltage to 120V Single Phase? If it does, would that change the outcome?

Two settings. 120/240 and 120/208.

The inverter expects to see a voltage difference of 200-250 between L1 and L2. When the voltage is outside of that range the grid/gen connection are disconnected.

 

[JasonHaws]

Two settings. 120/240 and 120/208.

The inverter expects to see a voltage difference of 200-250 between L1 and L2. When the voltage is outside of that range the grid/gen connection are disconnected.

Thank you for that information!

 

[HighTechLab]

I tested the same thing (feeding 120v only) and had the same result. When we called EG4 they said it's 120-240 meaning split phase and not a range.

Please also be sure you understand the below thread before installing the 6000XP in a mobile application:

EG4 6000XP Neutral-Ground Bonding

Let's start with a snip from the EG4 6000XP manual. What I'm getting at here, is a lot of people, including @Will Prowse in his latest video (8:03) are mistaken on how the 6000XP handles neutral and ground bonds. The inverter does NOT dynamically bond. This means that if you plan to put an...

diysolarforum.com

 

[ChrisG]

I tested the same thing (feeding 120v only) and had the same result. When we called EG4 they said it's 120-240 meaning split phase and not a range.

Please also be sure you understand the below thread before installing the 6000XP in a mobile application:

EG4 6000XP Neutral-Ground Bonding

Let's start with a snip from the EG4 6000XP manual. What I'm getting at here, is a lot of people, including @Will Prowse in his latest video (8:03) are mistaken on how the 6000XP handles neutral and ground bonds. The inverter does NOT dynamically bond. This means that if you plan to put an...

diysolarforum.com

Probably getting too complicated but couldn't you use a Victron autotransformer to step up 120v from gen to 120/240 split phase and use as input?

 

[HighTechLab]

Probably getting too complicated but couldn't you use a Victron autotransformer to step up 120v from gen to 120/240 split phase and use as input?

Not in mobile applications. NEC 551.20(E) outright bans it.

 

[ChrisG]

Not in mobile applications. NEC 551.20(E) outright bans it.

Ah, I see. Seems to protect camp ground electrical systems from overload but the power 'stand' is still fuse or breaker protected to 30a or 50a. Not sure how an autotransformer can pull more than the breaker will allow.