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EG4 Chargeverter

My first guess would have been that one of the modules was not plugged in. But I can see two green lights in the picture.
Maybe it's partially plugged in?
 
Nope.

With the breaker off:
I press enter, which takes me to the voltage and amperage menu, I press down to get to amperage, I set it to 90 from 45 by pressing up, I press enter, it stays 90, i press esc, it goes back to main screen, I press enter again, which takes me back to the voltage and amp menu. Voltage is saved, amperage is back to 45.

With breaker on:
Same as above except when I press enter after setting it to 90 and press escape, the charger screen shows it charging at 45
Look back on this thread about 20 pages. I had the same issue where the main screen only indicated half of what I programmed the current at. I checked the boards as Timselectric suggested and found one module had popped out of the plug and needed to be pushed back in.
 
I have a SolArk 12k, but I bought a Chargeverter to experiment (ten dollar word for play) with. I was wondering if anyone has any opinions of using this vs. just using the built in SolArk Grid input (I'm off grid). The SolArk is fine for my Honda 240v genset, but it does sometimes trip the overload if I have high load applied. I've never been able to get current limiting to work...
 
I have a SolArk 12k, but I bought a Chargeverter to experiment (ten dollar word for play) with. I was wondering if anyone has any opinions of using this vs. just using the built in SolArk Grid input (I'm off grid). The SolArk is fine for my Honda 240v genset, but it does sometimes trip the overload if I have high load applied. I've never been able to get current limiting to work...
The chargeverter solves this problem perfectly.
 
Look back on this thread about 20 pages. I had the same issue where the main screen only indicated half of what I programmed the current at. I checked the boards as Timselectric suggested and found one module had popped out of the plug and needed to be pushed back in.
Thank you! You saved me a month of time dealing with SS support! Turn out I had the same exact issue, one of the modules was just an 1/8" out compared to the other, i could see it by looking through the vents. Both lights were on the modules even though one wasn't fully in!

I fixed it by pushing the module in through the vent with some scissors. Now it's happily charging at 90+ amps.

FYI @BenFromSignatureSolar add this to your support's knowledge base so people don't waste time.
 
Thank you! You saved me a month of time dealing with SS support! Turn out I had the same exact issue, one of the modules was just an 1/8" out compared to the other, i could see it by looking through the vents. Both lights were on the modules though I even though one wasn't fully in!

I fixed it by pushing the module in through the vent with some scissors. Now it's happily charging at 90+ amps.

FYI @BenFromSignatureSolar add this to your support's knowledge base so people don't waste time.
Glad that worked out for you. That and how to wire 120V are the only calls we really get on the chargeverter. We probably would have had you take the top off rather than push scissors through the fins, but I'm glad you got it fixed!
 
Is there nothing but slot grip/tension holding the modules into the slots?
 
I have a SolArk 12k, but I bought a Chargeverter to experiment (ten dollar word for play) with. I was wondering if anyone has any opinions of using this vs. just using the built in SolArk Grid input (I'm off grid). The SolArk is fine for my Honda 240v genset, but it does sometimes trip the overload if I have high load applied. I've never been able to get current limiting to work...
Are you using the Gen Limit function of the SolArk?
 
There is a retainer bracket. But it's too flimsy for today's shipping Hazzards.

The shipping hazards being employees/contractors that don't give a crap and have no sense of pride in their work.

Some of the stories about how Amazon treats it's delivery people though, I could see how accidents would happen from overwork. UPS/FedEx though, minimal excuses for their behavior.
 
Generator port is outside the house, and wired directly to the Sol-Ark. I haven't decided if I want to hard wire the AC to the CV, or install a gen plug inside so I can tap the power. I'll put a 30 amp DPDT switch to disconnect the gen line to the Sol-Ark when I use the CV.

1) DC is hardwired, so will need to disassemble if I want to use it somewhere else.
2) AC plug forces me to consciously think about turning on the CV. Maybe add another switch for the CV if I hardwire.
3) Plugs cost a lot (so does 30 amp DPDT switch). I heard there may be something against code (prevents plugging in 2 generators?)

Any thoughts?
 
The bracket needs a redesign. Either thicker metal or use L angle or C channel stock.
 
Are you using the Gen Limit function of the SolArk?
I have tried to use that, but I'm not sure it works if the generator is hooked up to the Grid input. I use the Gen output as a dump load to test sand battery i'm playing with.
 
LOL... not a wooden chop stick, scissors.. LOL.. I love this place. (just playing with you) Where else but here would we all know that was ok as wel're all smart enough to not do it plugged in. Go make me some toast will ya. :)
I use a fork for the toaster ?
 
So far so good....... great packing, not sure what others are winging about (as in winj, not WING like chicken)... haven't hooked it up yet.... waiting on my fire insurance increase to kick in.. HA.. joking.... too busy but looks good...
A zip file?
 
A zip file?
Very observant, not one but two.. the file names may give you a hint... (PS we can't upload movies but we can upload zips.... starting to come into focus?)... (yea I know... I'll save you typing it "what a bitc*", trust me, it's one of my best features. ?)
 
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