Yes. The BMS is pretty big. Always the BMS that goes bad. If you check the voltage on each of the cells, they are all at the same voltage. I have not seen a bad bank in these. It is always the two sets of positive/negative wires that show bad voltage. I never smell anything burned or see any signs of short on the board. The SCC and the inverter portion works great along with all the inputs and outputs. When you change the BMS out.... Connected to the display portion you will see two ribbon cables. Since one of the ribbon cables goes to the battery.... The part that goes to the battery on the old BMS has four wires. The two on the outside are labeled “+” and “-“. (As shown on the other end that plugs to the display. I just put a ring terminal on those two wires and attach then to the main board where the screws are holding the positive and negative wires to the inverter. (Red/Black wire). Then everything will work no problem. Voltage of the battery will be shown on the display correctly.
Future battery upgrades/replacements
- Thread starter ecwashere
- Start date
I have no idea what is bad on the BMS. I don’t have the electrical know-how to figure it out. If you figure out what it is then let me know. I really do wonder what is wrong with that BMS. They seem like a very nice unit with those three temperature probe/thermistors.
Well, I get voltage on all resisters, but the fets don’t pass it through. I doubt I am capable of surface soldering replacements...
Brewman
Solar Enthusiast
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It's so fun...not
So I am guessing not worth fixing. Then again replacement BMS is so cheap on eBay so probably not worthwhile to do since this seems to be a common issue with these BMS's. Probably the same thing will happen again later.
Yeah, but I want one with temp monitoring while charging... like the original one.
Fire bad...
Fire bad...
Ok, I put in a 20A BMS, it’s working great.
300WATT would be 25A at 12v, so as long as I don’t load up the inverter, it should be fine.
If not, it’s SUPER easy to swap in a larger BMS.
I ordered 4 60A BMS, should be here sometime in July...
THANKS!
300WATT would be 25A at 12v, so as long as I don’t load up the inverter, it should be fine.
If not, it’s SUPER easy to swap in a larger BMS.
I ordered 4 60A BMS, should be here sometime in July...
THANKS!
My bet is the processor that engages the fets is defective... and I have ZERO diagnostic skills in that area...
Everything else seems to work when the BMS is bypassed, and the batteries are shielded on all 4 sides by fiberglass if something goes wrong...
Now I just need to find a charger connector for it.
It looks like a standard connector, and it’ll charge on 12 or 24V, so I can tie it to my solar array.
Greek to me
Brewman
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Huntron Trackers - Circuit Board Test and Troubleshooting
Current Huntron Tracker product line includes the Tracker 2800, Tracker 2800S and Tracker 3200S
www.huntron.com
Well, I got one working, and in an attempt to make a neater job, I tried wiring in place...
Bad idea.
I blew the bms I was working on, shorted main negative to a resistor on the bms...
Oh well, back to the drawing board...
It looks great though...
Bad idea.
I blew the bms I was working on, shorted main negative to a resistor on the bms...
Oh well, back to the drawing board...
It looks great though...
Yeah, I guess I'm waiting until july when my ordered bms boards arrive to fix the other ones.
At least I have one up and running.
I'm looking at the case, and there is a spot molded in the case to put in an xt60 socket.
I think that will allow for a better charging port.
I need to get some connectors now.
At least I have one up and running.
I'm looking at the case, and there is a spot molded in the case to put in an xt60 socket.
I think that will allow for a better charging port.
I need to get some connectors now.
I am charging through the ac connector for now, and it seems to work great.
Ok, when it hit 12.6V, the light came on... and it wouldn’t turn off... only dim.
Odd.
Cells went up to 12.6 fine.
Odd.
Cells went up to 12.6 fine.
Awesome! Did you get a BMS with temperature or just a standard BMS?
If you look at the casing where the charging port is.... The inside has two terminals. I solderer two wires to that and the other end to an XT-60. Drilled a hole to the case and mounted it. The way I have it the original charging port is still working but I have the option to use the XT-60 instead. It will charge UP TO 24 volts. So a 24V array will not work because it will be over on the voltage.
I completely unsoldered the original BMS and put the new BMS in it's place. Just needed some wire to go from the battery to the new BMS. The red and black wiring on the original BMS I reused on the new BMS to go from the input/output and also hacked the ribbon cable from the original BMS so I can get the display to turn on and show the voltage.
Use multimeter to check on the battery itself for the voltage. On one of my BMS it was faulty and so while it will charge the batteries, it didn't stop the charging after it was full. The light stayed on as a way to "bleed" off the extra power.
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