Giandel
- Thread starter Richc
- Start date
curiouscarbon
Science Penguin
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2020
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- 3,027
Thank you for responding. It is a 2200W model PS-2200KSC.dear @Richc, welcome to the forums
may i ask, which model you looking at?
model number or link to product will help us give accurate answer, thankyou
I have the 24 volt 3000 watt pure sine wave giandel inverter ( http://www.giandel.com/ProductView.asp?ID=41 ) and it’s works flawlessly with my lifepo4 battery.
Hmmm I am not sure tbh. Mine doesn’t have that option
Bud Martin
Solar Wizard
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- Aug 27, 2020
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To complete this adventure. Sunday I questioned if I could use a Giandel inverter with a Lithium battery (because the switch on the inverter only had “Gel” or “Lead/Acid“ none for Lithium) I emailed Giandel USA Sunday night with the question. Monday morning they emailed the information. Yes, the inverter can be used with Lithium batteries. The switch is for over charging voltage, not the type of battery. If over charge voltage is 14.4 V, set switch to “Gel”, if 15V, set to “Lead/Acid.” Thank you Elsa at Giandel USA! So, what is the over charge voltage for my Weize 100AH Lithium battery? I can’t find the information. So, I email Weize for the requested data. This morning (Tuesday) an email arrived with the information for my battery, 14.6V. Thank you Becky! So, within two days my questions were answere. Fantastic! Huge thanks to Giandel USA and Weize. I hope this may help others, especially “newbies” like me that are using this equipment.
Cajunwolf
Solar Enthusiast
Thanks for letting us know the result, many don't, and you end up with three pages with folks talking or bragging about anything but the original topic. While I'm here, I'm looking at the Giandel 3000w, PS-3000KAR, anyone has any thoughts?
Bud Martin
Solar Wizard
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- Aug 27, 2020
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Here is the review for the 24V version, it does not handle 6000W surge as claimed.
Cajunwolf
Solar Enthusiast
It was an interesting video, it shows it's a decent inverter, but I wouldn't trust his surge rest. The infrared images showed how many current chokepoints he had, especially the lousy splice between his cables and those supplied; use one or the other, dang. Also, his combiner board, why not just use two heavy bus bars instead, much more efficient.
Cajunwolf
Solar Enthusiast
Bud Martin
Solar Wizard
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- Aug 27, 2020
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As shown in the video, the unit went into OL (Over Load shutdown) when the AC load current went up to about 30A (120VAC * 30A = 3960W), so if you have choke point, then it should not go into overload because the choke point will limit the unit from reaching surge of 6000W (120VAC 50A) that it claims, it went into overload at only about 4000W.
I have a 3000 watt Giandel and am more than happy with it. Not sure of the model number but I bought it recently.Thanks for letting us know the result, many don't, and you end up with three pages with folks talking or bragging about anything but the original topic. While I'm here, I'm looking at the Giandel 3000w, PS-3000KAR, anyone has any thoughts?
Tim
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Cajunwolf
Solar Enthusiast
12 or 24 volts?
I have a 12 volt and have run my AC in my caravan with it which surprised me.
I have two seperate solar setups with manual transfer switches in the house. They power all lighting, washer, microwave, split ac unit. Fridges, etc.
Cajunwolf
Solar Enthusiast
I see; I'm powering a 1988 28-foot class C RV. I'm on the fence with inverters and voltage right now. It seems anytime you try to pull more than 2kw from a "single" 12-volt system, without monster cables, things get iffy. I just bought three 12v 200ah batteries, a great deal btw, and was looking at 3k to 4k of an inverter able to do at or near a 30 amp system if need be. I don't have to have it, but I would like to, and it seems that 24-volts would be a better way to go. I have a 6k BTU window unit (3.5 amps) and a rooftop unit. The rooftop, a 15k BTU Dometic (13.5 amps), is for when plugged into shore power, but I would like to run it on batteries while driving in hot climates like south Texas, for example. The window unit otherwise. I'm thinking that with panels and a spare alternator back charging the system while driving day or night should work; I'll have at least 1.5kw on the roof and 500w on top of my WJ Jeep while towing ground deploy when parked. I'm thinking of getting that 4th battery anyhow because of the price. Things will be going up, seriously, after the first. I was also wondering if the inverters could be hooked up in parallel. Anyhow, that was a brain dump, in case you're wondering.
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