It is. (or 2x 6 awg) regardless It's a good answer and more to the point put me back on track. I was simply overzealously testing my new toy The intended use is in the RV since I was planning a 2200ish watt max and bought enough battery for that ... so the battery is 100a max continuous it's an impossible test, wiring aside, if the shop vac is pulling anything over 2400 ( it clearly is ) the BMS will cut it off anyway. So I am getting the correct response from the inverter. I am not really interested in investing more $$ in battery + cabling since my 2000 watt gen set does just fine but we were looking for some QUIET power, boondock use, and some solar/inverter practice for doing the house -- it looks like it will have no problems with that.Yea, I believe the recommendation is #2 AWG for the 24V 3000. Using the right cable size, and tight connections is super critical for these inverters.
kWh Capacity: | 3kWh |
Ah Capacity: | 120Ah |
Cell Configuration: | 8S |
Max Continuous Discharge Current Amps: | 130 |
Max Continuous Power Watts: | 3328 |
Max Discharge Peak Current Amps: | 350 (6 Seconds) |
Max Charge Current Amps: | 100 |
I use a fuse and a disconnect - no breaker. When I was building my system finding a rated breaker was a challange. however since then there are some inexpensive alternatives that would work.
125A. However I run 48v but also 2 units in parallel. Batteries - buss bar - fuse - disconnect - feeds.to.invertersWhat size fuse did you use? The only size breaker close to 125A is 120A that I can find that is a surface mount style.