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Help me Install 3 EG4 Mini Split Solar Heat Pumps

I actually think the best use of this system may be to supplement a working standard ducted split system. Will make it run less.. for “free”
This would be true in some cases. To just get a cheap AC powered mini split and run it off grid via an inverter / battery bank set up. And this was indeed my original plan when I was only going to buy 1 9000 BTU unit for my bedroom. But with my small (but very robust) Schneider 4000w inverter, adding 3 mini splits was just out of the question. The Solar AC option was my only solution short of buying the much coveted Schneider XW Pro. (which is probably in my future anyway at some point)
 
You have a different Green Solar Graphic than I have. Mine looks like Cell phone signal bars. Production Date of 10/22
 
You have a different Green Solar Graphic than I have. Mine looks like Cell phone signal bars. Production Date of 10/22
REALLY?!!! Plot thickens. That of course GREATLY increases the probability yourself and @Hcap are on different (maybe not better..) firmware than I...
 
Wait ... Are you really just a couple inches or less off the ceiling?

Now I don't feel so bad ?

How does it preform?
 
REALLY?!!! Plot thickens. That of course GREATLY increases the probability yourself and @Hcap are on different (maybe not better..) firmware than I...
Yeah.

I won't know now til I install the array. I took the temp array down yesterday b4 it killed the grass.
 
I actually think the best use of this system may be to supplement a working standard ducted split system. Will make it run less.. for “free”
This is exactly why I am watching this thread. I have a three ton water source heat pump that is rated around 22 SEER, but I have been looking for ways to solarize it. It looks like the best bet for me is a 9K BTU in the bedroom and maybe a 12K BTU in the living room. I would just tell the mini splits to try to stay two degrees colder than the main unit and let them do their thing.
 
This is exactly why I am watching this thread. I have a three ton water source heat pump that is rated around 22 SEER, but I have been looking for ways to solarize it. It looks like the best bet for me is a 9K BTU in the bedroom and maybe a 12K BTU in the living room. I would just tell the mini splits to try to stay two degrees colder than the main unit and let them do their thing.
Except so far the EG4 does not come in a 9k solar version
 
This is exactly why I am watching this thread. I have a three ton water source heat pump that is rated around 22 SEER, but I have been looking for ways to solarize it. It looks like the best bet for me is a 9K BTU in the bedroom and maybe a 12K BTU in the living room. I would just tell the mini splits to try to stay two degrees colder than the main unit and let them do their thing.
You have learned the Jedi ways Padowan. That is 100.0% what I'm doing, though for summer I need to add the 12k for bedroom. My water source heat pump is so old only 16 SEER single stage....used to be the Sh!t...in 2002.
 
Wait ... Are you really just a couple inches or less off the ceiling?

Now I don't feel so bad ?

How does it preform?
Misleading photography skills. However I think not that important. I keep seeing a PIONEER ad where unit is clearly closer to ceiling and corner than their specs.

Also, for outdoor units, all brands i think, everyone specs 12" to wall. Only one problem, no one makes a bracket that achieves that.

20230522_112257.jpg
 
Also, for outdoor units, all brands i think, everyone specs 12" to wall. Only one problem, no one makes a bracket that achieves that.
My bracket gives me 10". I could have pushed it to the edge for 11".
I don't think it's a problem. Because being on a wall bracket adds air flow from the bottom also.
And all of the distance requirements are there to provide enough air flow.
 
I
This is exactly why I am watching this thread. I have a three ton water source heat pump that is rated around 22 SEER, but I have been looking for ways to solarize it. It looks like the best bet for me is a 9K BTU in the bedroom and maybe a 12K BTU in the living room. I would just tell the mini splits to try to stay two degrees colder than the main unit and let them do their thing.
I have a bunch of Schneider gear on one property and love it. I may move it to this other property. However for now on the other property I have a zoned split system and it just can’t keep up for the main living room and kitchen. I need to spray foam the house. There isn’t enough blown in -in the attic. Spray foam is about $12k. I have 40 panels in my shed. For a couple thousand I could put up the 12 or 24k.. and it would lower my electric bill and I can put off the spray foam. Seems like a no brainer. Would love to hear that the solar only operation was working flawlessly.
 
I

I have a bunch of Schneider gear on one property and love it. I may move it to this other property. However for now on the other property I have a zoned split system and it just can’t keep up for the main living room and kitchen. I need to spray foam the house. There isn’t enough blown in -in the attic. Spray foam is about $12k. I have 40 panels in my shed. For a couple thousand I could put up the 12 or 24k.. and it would lower my electric bill and I can put off the spray foam. Seems like a no brainer. Would love to hear that the solar only operation was working flawlessly.
Get the 24k
 
Sorry for the partial hijack but it's relevant (I think)
I got to thinking, sometimes that's scary...
Say someone would wire up a 48s or greater pack and use one of these BMS's( https://heltec-bms.com/product/helt...stem-can-rs485-for-3-2v-lifepo4-battery-pack/ ) connected directly to the EG4 minisplit MPPT (I know the subject has been beaten to death in other scenarios...) and also run a paralleled array very close to the chosen battery voltage... I know....

Would it go up in smoke? Would the minisplit run? Would the batteries charge from the panels and then continue working off batteries under clouds or darkness?
 
Sorry for the partial hijack but it's relevant (I think)
I got to thinking, sometimes that's scary...
Say someone would wire up a 48s or greater pack and use one of these BMS's( https://heltec-bms.com/product/helt...stem-can-rs485-for-3-2v-lifepo4-battery-pack/ ) connected directly to the EG4 minisplit MPPT (I know the subject has been beaten to death in other scenarios...) and also run a paralleled array very close to the chosen battery voltage... I know....

Would it go up in smoke? Would the minisplit run? Would the batteries charge from the panels and then continue working off batteries under clouds or darkness?
If the solar voltage was higher than the battery voltage. Then the battery should charge. If the battery voltage is higher than the solar. Then the solar would drain the battery. (A diode would fix that)
Either way, the mini split should be happy. Until the battery and solar voltage is too low.
 
Ok so all my solar cabling for all 3 units is now permanently installed in the Attic. Now to mount the solar panels on the roof ... All 18 370w panels ... And connect up the attic DC Beakers.

All AC & DC disconnects are installed at the units
 
Question:
Does any one know , is there a way to tell the room temp from the head unit or remote? The only place I can find room temp is in the app.
 
Not that I'm aware of? Speaking of indicated room temp BTW...since the sensor is integral with the indoor unit - and I assume this to be true of any mini split - it's influenced by indoor discharge temp, so seems to be programmed with overshoot ( or you could setup the sensor with a false or "expected" offset just as well, but Deye seems to have chosen the "true" temp approach..)

Example. Set Heat to 80. It will run to 84 or such on its indicated room temp in the app, since due to the local proximity of discharge to sensor this would presumably result in a actual room temp of 80 (?)
Vice versa for Cool...set temp 66 may show sensed temp 62..

Making any sense??
If anybody has more knowledge on this let me hear your thoughts. There has been a lot of general mini split discussion on the board lately :) :cool:
 
Not that I'm aware of? Speaking of indicated room temp BTW...since the sensor is integral with the indoor unit - and I assume this to be true of any mini split - it's influenced by indoor discharge temp, so seems to be programmed with overshoot ( or you could setup the sensor with a false or "expected" offset just as well, but Deye seems to have chosen the "true" temp approach..)

Example. Set Heat to 80. It will run to 84 or such on its indicated room temp in the app, since due to the local proximity of discharge to sensor this would presumably result in a actual room temp of 80 (?)
Vice versa for Cool...set temp 66 may show sensed temp 62..

Making any sense??
If anybody has more knowledge on this let me hear your thoughts. There has been a lot of general mini split discussion on the board lately :) :cool:
I have seen this too. Either its intentional or the temp sensor is wildly inaccurate.

Another seemingly oddity. I use and external indoor wireless temp sensor. If you set the head units temp to 75. It is Will cool down to 73 (at my wireless sensor). Then the compressor will turn off.

BUT ... It Does not come back onto to keep the room at 73. It stays off til about 75 , so the room fluctuates a good bit. I go to sleep at 73 and wake up at 4am too warm because the compressor hasn't been on, humidity is not being removed and the room temp never got high enough thru the night to trigger the compressor to come back on.

But this is not an issue in the day and I assume won't be in summer. Only now when outside over nite Temps are 70 ish.
 

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