Help me Install 3 EG4 Mini Split Solar Heat Pumps

[MrM1]

THREAD INDEX: (Links Updated: 2/15/2024)

This is a long Thread, So I have added this Index​

Note: Click the Post Number to Follow the link. The Topic discussion will follow from that Post​

TOOLS USED FOR DIY A/C INSTALLS

Tools - 662​

THE INSTALL

General​

1st 24k - 5​

2nd 24k - 6​

12k - 139​

Nitrogen Testing​

1st 24k - 36​

2nd 24k - 117​

12k - 228​

Color Coding my Wire from Disconnect to Unit - 140​

Building a Window Valance - 312​

Wrapping with the PVC UV tape - 40​

Professionally installed by Professionals - 307 / 309​

Install Details / Links and What I used - 344​

How it all Worked Out - 309 / 615​

INSTALLING THE SOLAR

Array Layout - 393​

Array Install - 508 / 546​

Transition Boxes and Wiring - 490 / 572​

ELECTRICAL

Breakers - 3​

Color Coding my Wire from Disconnect to Unit - 140​

Critical Loads Panel Install - 191​

Amp Draw Unit On vs Off - 420​

THE APP

AirCon vs Smart Life - 257​

App Wish List - 466​

Deye Response to the App Wish List - 470​

How to Set AC LIMIT to Default On - 471​

THINGS I'VE LEARNED / HACKS / WORKAROUNDS

Things I've Learned About the Units - 413​

Amp Draw Unit On vs Off - 420​

Using Cloud Schedule to work around LP Shut Down - 561​

How to Set AC LIMIT to Default On - 471​

ISSUES AND CONCERNS (I've reach out to Signature solar about This)

Some (not all) Units Will not Reconnect DC After Clouds - 67 / 173 / 584 / 590​

Signature Solar is working with me on an MPPT solution for the one 24k - 633​

DEYE LINKS AND RESPONSE

Web Info not in my EG4 Manual - 77​

Deye Response to Wish List - 470​

How to Set AC LIMIT to Default On - 471​

Warranty Registration Link - 617​

SETTING UP APP SCENES

Wait? ... What? ... The App Has Scenes? - 748​

Testing Scenes - What Can you Do? - 757​

Thoughts on Scenes ... Powerful Automation Tool - 764​

Tap-To-Run ... A Great Automation Tool - 765​

​

**************
(Original 1st Post: 5/6/23)

Yup ... Got 3 of the EG4 Solar Mini Splits. A 12k BTU and 2 of the 24k BTU units. They are very nice and arrived nicely packaged from Signature Solar a week ago.

My plan is to run them on a total of 18 Solar Panels. 7 each for the two 24k units, and 4 for the 12k unit. These are REC TwinPeak2s 370w panels. The VOC for each is 47.8v (7 = 335v and 4 = 191v). I will use these units mostly on Solar (although I plan to connect them AC as well but leave the breakers off). They will cool the house thru the day, while my 2 heat pumps (3 ton and 2.5 ton) will pull night duty.

I am not an AC or HVAC tech, nor do I play one on TV ... but I am officially YouTube certified. I have been collecting tools etc but will probably let an HVAC person do the final inspection, pressure test and evac on the units for warranty etc. But I do enjoy doing as much as I possibly can myself.

Any way, any support and help and questions answered along the way will be appreciated. I probably will not shot a video of the install, just pics, but will probably produce a final video once the project is complete.

 

[MrM1]

So They arrive about 10 days ago on the Big Truck. He actually made 2 delivers to my house in 2 days ... once for the EG4s and once for the SanTan REC Solar Panels.



Packaged up nice. No damage. Great Shipping and Fast service from SS

 

[MrM1]

Going to need to do an breaker upgrade in my Sub Panel. The EG4 12k is 120v and the 24k is 240v. And my Sub Panel is already fully maxed out. The one empty space is actually a broken off tab in on the busbar, so it is not usable.



The 240v 40amp DP goes to my existing 2.5 ton heat pump. The panel is fed from a 60amp breaker from the main and 4 AWG wire.

But I have a plan to add in the 3 EG4 units.

 

[MrM1]

Thank Goodness for Quad Breakers. I added two 15/20db/15s and one 15/40db/15. This gave me plenty of space for both the 24s and the 15k AND gave me one extra space I did not have. (Note: the EG4s are not wired yet)

 

[MrM1]

OK ... so on to the install.
So far, I have the two 24k head units and condenser units installed. Communication lines and drains are coming together.

First I did the Living Room 24k unit



And outside ... a wall rack rated for 350 lbs. (NOTE: I also added a 3rd piece of UniStrut to support the bottom of the rack)

 

[MrM1]

And the second 24k unit for the west facing glass wall lake view Florida Room. (yes in Florida - LoL).



And outside

 

[MrM1]

OK ... so my first question. I had to run the line set out the side of the unit in the Florida Room. Notice in the close up, I only had 9 inches from the corner, and I needed the line set connections to be inside the room and not in the wall.



BUT ... to get the connection that close to the Unit, I had to get a little creative with the bending of the Line Set inside the EG4 24k.

NOW ... I was using a 1/4" Easy Bend Mandrel inserted in the line to make the bend (Yes I bought the Kit). So Yes, the 1/4" mandrel was in the line way past the bend ...

But it still did not come out perfect. No Kink ... but the 1/4" might have ovaled a little. The pic looks worse than it really is, but how bad is this?





Will this be a problem?
There is no kink, and the tube is smooth, Its just a little misshaped.

 

[Bluedog225]

Following. Hope it goes well.

Just an opinion. I don’t think the slight oval will matter much. A kink I would worry about.

 

[SolarScott]

If it's not kinked, and when you pressure test and no leaks, you should be good. It will not be moving around anymore, so I don't see how it could ever develop a leak. I think you are gonna love it. My 24K is keeping my house at 66 degrees or so during the day when I'm not there. All running off my main three EG4 6000's. Haven't added panels yet, so far don't need them. If I ran the oven, water heater and well pump and all house lights, T.V.'s and computers, it might start cutting it close. If that is the case, I will add the panels. I ran mine to a transfer switch that I had purchased before I installed my system that I did not use on the main system. This way I can run off my main solar system or the grid if needed. I think I am going to get my son a 24k unit and panels to run it, even though his heat pump is fairly new. I think it will pay off in less than two years and definitely keep his house cooler. Man, there is nothing like coming home to a deep freeze house and knowing it is not costing a dime to keep it that way.

 

[SolarScott]

Harbor Freight has a vacuum pump for $150 and gauges for$65....if you had a source for nitrogen bottle locally, it might be the way to go...don't know how this affects warranty? My AC guy neighbor did mine for $120.....I do tractor work for his garden so he treats my right.

 

[SolarScott]

Going to need to do an breaker upgrade in my Sub Panel. The EG4 12k is 120v and the 24k is 240v. And my Sub Panel is already fully maxed out. The one empty space is actually a broken off tab in on the busbar, so it is not usable.

View attachment 148058

The 240v 40amp DP goes to my existing 2.5 ton heat pump. The panel is fed from a 60amp breaker from the main and 4 AWG wire.

But I have a plan to add in the 3 EG4 units.

I don't know what the laws are like where you live, but when I started my system I decided to replace the entire panel. It was 35 years old and had some burnt lugs. Bought two panels, one for the 240 volts loads and one for most of all the others. With breakers to back feed my solar into it, with lock out devices. It only took me most of a day to unwire every thing and wire it all back up. It seems like you are short on space. Do you have a guy who might sign off your work after you do it if required? Thank God I live in a place where they don't have a lot of say inf what you do with your own property.

 

[MrM1]

Yeah ... I was just to lazy to replace my sub panel. That was the plan ... but ... well ... ummm .... Quad Breakers Whoot Whoot !!!!

 

[MrM1]

Ok so I got a guy bring me some Nitrogen tomorrow, but I had this new 3.5 cfm pump and gauges and just wanted to see if it would pull a vac. I ran the pump for 40 minutes with only the low side connected. The pump pulled things down to -27+/-. I closed the valve and turned off the pump. After 1 hour .... nothing has moved. Still at -27+/-

I know I am supposed to leak test with nitrogen, But what are the benefits if any beside the hi pressure leak test. I mean, if it held a vac for 2-3 days, would that be enough, or is there some other benefit to the nitrogen besides hi pressure leak test (I mean obviously besides the hi pressure bubble testing)

Any way ... here are the numbers on one of the two 24ks ... the first one to have the lines connected

 

[SolarScott]

Ok so I got a guy bring me some Nitrogen tomorrow, but I had this new 3.5 cfm pump and gauges and just wanted to see if it would pull a vac. I ran the pump for 40 minutes with only the low side connected. The pump pulled things down to -27+/-. I closed the valve and turned off the pump. After 1 hour .... nothing has moved. Still at -27+/-

I know I am supposed to leak test with nitrogen, But what are the benefits if any beside the hi pressure leak test. I mean, if it held a vac for 2-3 days, would that be enough, or is there some other benefit to the nitrogen besides hi pressure leak test (I mean obviously besides the hi pressure bubble testing)

Any way ... here are the numbers on one of the two 24ks ... the first one to have the lines connected

View attachment 148118

I don't believe there is a benefit it it's not leaking....I think it is a requirement for the warranty though.

 

[Brett V]

I've installed 2 mini splits. Not EG4 but they're basically all the same. I bought a vacuum pump and gauge on Amazon and after assembly, just pulled the line set down to zero on the gauge and turned off the pump. Let it sit for an hour and verified the gauge was still at zero...good enough.

One thing the Pioneer distributor recommended was this sealing goop on the flares. Not sure if it's needed or not but one unit has been in service for both heating and cooling for 7 years, the other for 5 years without an issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Technologies-RT201B-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B008HOSQQQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=HHIWWREGN3XG&keywords=mini+split+flare+sealant&qid=1683426276&sprefix=mini+split+flare+seal%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-2

 

[timselectric]

The reason for the nitrogen pressurized leak test.
If there is a leak. Pulling a vacuum can pull contaminants into the system through the leak.
Leak testing under pressure, does not do that.
That being said, I only pulled a vacuum. And luckily there were no leaks. If you have already verified that you don't have a leak. The nitrogen would be a pointless step, now.

 

[Lt.Dan]

The reason for the nitrogen pressurized leak test.
If there is a leak. Pulling a vacuum can pull contaminants into the system through the leak.
Leak testing under pressure, does not do that.
That being said, I only pulled a vacuum. And luckily there were no leaks. If you have already verified that you don't have a leak. The nitrogen would be a pointless step, now.

Good to know info there.

 

[MrM1]

The reason for the nitrogen pressurized leak test.
If there is a leak. Pulling a vacuum can pull contaminants into the system through the leak.
Leak testing under pressure, does not do that.
That being said, I only pulled a vacuum. And luckily there were no leaks. If you have already verified that you don't have a leak. The nitrogen would be a pointless step, now.

Thx @timselectric

yeah vac is holding

 

[MrM1]

I've installed 2 mini splits. Not EG4 but they're basically all the same. I bought a vacuum pump and gauge on Amazon and after assembly, just pulled the line set down to zero on the gauge and turned off the pump. Let it sit for an hour and verified the gauge was still at zero...good enough.

One thing the Pioneer distributor recommended was this sealing goop on the flares. Not sure if it's needed or not but one unit has been in service for both heating and cooling for 7 years, the other for 5 years without an issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Technologies-RT201B-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B008HOSQQQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=HHIWWREGN3XG&keywords=mini+split+flare+sealant&qid=1683426276&sprefix=mini+split+flare+seal%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-2

yup used Nylog Blue on the flaring tool to make the flare, on the threads, on the mating surface and behind the flare to make the nut spin free.

 

[400bird]

What pressure is used for pressure testing? 200? 400? A quick google showed 600psi.
That is 600 psi inside the lines, not 14 psi on the outside. Pretty drastic difference.

But, if you are confident in your flares and seals a vacuum test is likely good enough