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Help me Install 3 EG4 Mini Split Solar Heat Pumps

MrM1

I'm Here, But I'm Not All There
Joined
Mar 1, 2021
Messages
2,420
Location
N. Central FL
THREAD INDEX: (Links Updated: 2/15/2024)
This is a long Thread, So I have added this Index​
Note: Click the Post Number to Follow the link. The Topic discussion will follow from that Post​

TOOLS USED FOR DIY A/C INSTALLS
Tools - 662

THE INSTALL
General​
1st 24k - 5
2nd 24k - 6
12k - 139
Nitrogen Testing​
1st 24k - 36
2nd 24k - 117
12k - 228
Color Coding my Wire from Disconnect to Unit - 140
Building a Window Valance - 312
Wrapping with the PVC UV tape - 40
Professionally installed by Professionals - 307 / 309
Install Details / Links and What I used - 344
How it all Worked Out - 309 / 615

INSTALLING THE SOLAR
Array Layout - 393
Array Install - 508 / 546
Transition Boxes and Wiring - 490 / 572

ELECTRICAL
Breakers - 3
Color Coding my Wire from Disconnect to Unit - 140
Critical Loads Panel Install - 191
Amp Draw Unit On vs Off - 420

THE APP
AirCon vs Smart Life - 257
App Wish List - 466
Deye Response to the App Wish List - 470
How to Set AC LIMIT to Default On - 471

THINGS I'VE LEARNED / HACKS / WORKAROUNDS
Things I've Learned About the Units - 413
Amp Draw Unit On vs Off - 420
Using Cloud Schedule to work around LP Shut Down - 561
How to Set AC LIMIT to Default On - 471

ISSUES AND CONCERNS (I've reach out to Signature solar about This)
Some (not all) Units Will not Reconnect DC After Clouds - 67 / 173 / 584 / 590
Signature Solar is working with me on an MPPT solution for the one 24k - 633

DEYE LINKS AND RESPONSE
Web Info not in my EG4 Manual - 77
Deye Response to Wish List - 470
How to Set AC LIMIT to Default On - 471
Warranty Registration Link - 617

SETTING UP APP SCENES
Wait? ... What? ... The App Has Scenes? - 748
Testing Scenes - What Can you Do? - 757
Thoughts on Scenes ... Powerful Automation Tool - 764
Tap-To-Run ... A Great Automation Tool - 765
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(Original 1st Post: 5/6/23)

Yup ... Got 3 of the EG4 Solar Mini Splits. A 12k BTU and 2 of the 24k BTU units. They are very nice and arrived nicely packaged from Signature Solar a week ago.

My plan is to run them on a total of 18 Solar Panels. 7 each for the two 24k units, and 4 for the 12k unit. These are REC TwinPeak2s 370w panels. The VOC for each is 47.8v (7 = 335v and 4 = 191v). I will use these units mostly on Solar (although I plan to connect them AC as well but leave the breakers off). They will cool the house thru the day, while my 2 heat pumps (3 ton and 2.5 ton) will pull night duty.

I am not an AC or HVAC tech, nor do I play one on TV ... but I am officially YouTube certified. I have been collecting tools etc but will probably let an HVAC person do the final inspection, pressure test and evac on the units for warranty etc. But I do enjoy doing as much as I possibly can myself.

Any way, any support and help and questions answered along the way will be appreciated. I probably will not shot a video of the install, just pics, but will probably produce a final video once the project is complete.
 
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So They arrive about 10 days ago on the Big Truck. He actually made 2 delivers to my house in 2 days ... once for the EG4s and once for the SanTan REC Solar Panels.

RnL.JPG

Packaged up nice. No damage. Great Shipping and Fast service from SS

IMG_20230425_162534~2.jpg
 
Going to need to do an breaker upgrade in my Sub Panel. The EG4 12k is 120v and the 24k is 240v. And my Sub Panel is already fully maxed out. The one empty space is actually a broken off tab in on the busbar, so it is not usable.

IMG_20230429_171939~2.jpg

The 240v 40amp DP goes to my existing 2.5 ton heat pump. The panel is fed from a 60amp breaker from the main and 4 AWG wire.

But I have a plan to add in the 3 EG4 units. ;)
 
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OK ... so on to the install.
So far, I have the two 24k head units and condenser units installed. Communication lines and drains are coming together.

First I did the Living Room 24k unit

IMG_20230504_141223~2.jpg

And outside ... a wall rack rated for 350 lbs. (NOTE: I also added a 3rd piece of UniStrut to support the bottom of the rack)

IMG_20230506_131538~2.jpg
 
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OK ... so my first question. I had to run the line set out the side of the unit in the Florida Room. Notice in the close up, I only had 9 inches from the corner, and I needed the line set connections to be inside the room and not in the wall.

FR closeup.jpg

BUT ... to get the connection that close to the Unit, I had to get a little creative with the bending of the Line Set inside the EG4 24k.

NOW ... I was using a 1/4" Easy Bend Mandrel inserted in the line to make the bend (Yes I bought the Kit). So Yes, the 1/4" mandrel was in the line way past the bend ...

But it still did not come out perfect. No Kink ... but the 1/4" might have ovaled a little. The pic looks worse than it really is, but how bad is this?

IMG_20230504_193839.jpg

IMG_20230504_193836.jpg

Will this be a problem?
There is no kink, and the tube is smooth, Its just a little misshaped.
 
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If it's not kinked, and when you pressure test and no leaks, you should be good. It will not be moving around anymore, so I don't see how it could ever develop a leak. I think you are gonna love it. My 24K is keeping my house at 66 degrees or so during the day when I'm not there. All running off my main three EG4 6000's. Haven't added panels yet, so far don't need them. If I ran the oven, water heater and well pump and all house lights, T.V.'s and computers, it might start cutting it close. If that is the case, I will add the panels. I ran mine to a transfer switch that I had purchased before I installed my system that I did not use on the main system. This way I can run off my main solar system or the grid if needed. I think I am going to get my son a 24k unit and panels to run it, even though his heat pump is fairly new. I think it will pay off in less than two years and definitely keep his house cooler. Man, there is nothing like coming home to a deep freeze house and knowing it is not costing a dime to keep it that way.
 
Harbor Freight has a vacuum pump for $150 and gauges for$65....if you had a source for nitrogen bottle locally, it might be the way to go...don't know how this affects warranty? My AC guy neighbor did mine for $120.....I do tractor work for his garden so he treats my right.
 
Going to need to do an breaker upgrade in my Sub Panel. The EG4 12k is 120v and the 24k is 240v. And my Sub Panel is already fully maxed out. The one empty space is actually a broken off tab in on the busbar, so it is not usable.

View attachment 148058

The 240v 40amp DP goes to my existing 2.5 ton heat pump. The panel is fed from a 60amp breaker from the main and 4 AWG wire.

But I have a plan to add in the 3 EG4 units. ;)
I don't know what the laws are like where you live, but when I started my system I decided to replace the entire panel. It was 35 years old and had some burnt lugs. Bought two panels, one for the 240 volts loads and one for most of all the others. With breakers to back feed my solar into it, with lock out devices. It only took me most of a day to unwire every thing and wire it all back up. It seems like you are short on space. Do you have a guy who might sign off your work after you do it if required? Thank God I live in a place where they don't have a lot of say inf what you do with your own property.
 
Ok so I got a guy bring me some Nitrogen tomorrow, but I had this new 3.5 cfm pump and gauges and just wanted to see if it would pull a vac. I ran the pump for 40 minutes with only the low side connected. The pump pulled things down to -27+/-. I closed the valve and turned off the pump. After 1 hour .... nothing has moved. Still at -27+/-

I know I am supposed to leak test with nitrogen, But what are the benefits if any beside the hi pressure leak test. I mean, if it held a vac for 2-3 days, would that be enough, or is there some other benefit to the nitrogen besides hi pressure leak test (I mean obviously besides the hi pressure bubble testing)

Any way ... here are the numbers on one of the two 24ks ... the first one to have the lines connected

guage(1).jpg
 
Ok so I got a guy bring me some Nitrogen tomorrow, but I had this new 3.5 cfm pump and gauges and just wanted to see if it would pull a vac. I ran the pump for 40 minutes with only the low side connected. The pump pulled things down to -27+/-. I closed the valve and turned off the pump. After 1 hour .... nothing has moved. Still at -27+/-

I know I am supposed to leak test with nitrogen, But what are the benefits if any beside the hi pressure leak test. I mean, if it held a vac for 2-3 days, would that be enough, or is there some other benefit to the nitrogen besides hi pressure leak test (I mean obviously besides the hi pressure bubble testing)

Any way ... here are the numbers on one of the two 24ks ... the first one to have the lines connected

View attachment 148118
I don't believe there is a benefit it it's not leaking....I think it is a requirement for the warranty though.
 
I've installed 2 mini splits. Not EG4 but they're basically all the same. I bought a vacuum pump and gauge on Amazon and after assembly, just pulled the line set down to zero on the gauge and turned off the pump. Let it sit for an hour and verified the gauge was still at zero...good enough.

One thing the Pioneer distributor recommended was this sealing goop on the flares. Not sure if it's needed or not but one unit has been in service for both heating and cooling for 7 years, the other for 5 years without an issue.

 
The reason for the nitrogen pressurized leak test.
If there is a leak. Pulling a vacuum can pull contaminants into the system through the leak.
Leak testing under pressure, does not do that.
That being said, I only pulled a vacuum. And luckily there were no leaks. If you have already verified that you don't have a leak. The nitrogen would be a pointless step, now.
 
The reason for the nitrogen pressurized leak test.
If there is a leak. Pulling a vacuum can pull contaminants into the system through the leak.
Leak testing under pressure, does not do that.
That being said, I only pulled a vacuum. And luckily there were no leaks. If you have already verified that you don't have a leak. The nitrogen would be a pointless step, now.
Good to know info there.
 
The reason for the nitrogen pressurized leak test.
If there is a leak. Pulling a vacuum can pull contaminants into the system through the leak.
Leak testing under pressure, does not do that.
That being said, I only pulled a vacuum. And luckily there were no leaks. If you have already verified that you don't have a leak. The nitrogen would be a pointless step, now.
Thx @timselectric

yeah vac is holding
 
I've installed 2 mini splits. Not EG4 but they're basically all the same. I bought a vacuum pump and gauge on Amazon and after assembly, just pulled the line set down to zero on the gauge and turned off the pump. Let it sit for an hour and verified the gauge was still at zero...good enough.

One thing the Pioneer distributor recommended was this sealing goop on the flares. Not sure if it's needed or not but one unit has been in service for both heating and cooling for 7 years, the other for 5 years without an issue.

yup used Nylog Blue on the flaring tool to make the flare, on the threads, on the mating surface and behind the flare to make the nut spin free.
 
What pressure is used for pressure testing? 200? 400? A quick google showed 600psi.
That is 600 psi inside the lines, not 14 psi on the outside. Pretty drastic difference.

But, if you are confident in your flares and seals a vacuum test is likely good enough
 
What pressure is used for pressure testing? 200? 400? A quick google showed 600psi.
That is 600 psi inside the lines, not 14 psi on the outside. Pretty drastic difference.

But, if you are confident in your flares and seals a vacuum test is likely good enough
on the EG4 install video from Signature Solar, they said pressure tested it to 500 psi with the nitrogen.
 
Hey you've been busy - that all looks great.

So as I understand it, both Scott and yourself envision these units for "maximum flexibility" of running off solar inverter (panels/battery), grid, or direct dedicated solar??
 
Hey you've been busy - that all looks great.

So as I understand it, both Scott and yourself envision these units for "maximum flexibility" of running off solar inverter (panels/battery), grid, or direct dedicated solar??
Correct.

I will run the two 24k units solar only. They'll be grid connected with a bypass to the inverter as well. But my inverter is a mere 4000w ... And it has other priorities. But could b there if I need heat or cool in a grid down situation.

The 12k WILL also run solar thru the the day, have a grid connection, but will be on the inverter full time. It will be in my bed room.
 
Correct.

I will run the two 24k units solar only. They'll be grid connected with a bypass to the inverter as well. But my inverter is a mere 4000w ... And it has other priorities. But could b there if I need heat or cool in a grid down situation.

The 12k WILL also run solar thru the the day, have a grid connection, but will be on the inverter full time. It will be in my bed room.
Quite an achievement to do it all yourself!

How much do they draw from solar or grid if you run 24k unit off solar (in amps please).

Thanks
 
Well it's held vacuum pressure for 12 hours now at - 27 +/-

So I'm guessing a nitrogen leak test is not necessary?

My only concern, I've seen some videos (not many) and read a few random comments how nitrogen is needed to remove extra moisture for 410a? ?
 
Quite an achievement to do it all yourself!

How much do they draw from solar or grid if you run 24k unit off solar (in amps please).

Thanks
Don't know yet. Will take me a week or two more to connect AC power and several more weeks b4 I can install the solar panels.

Busy week at work this week.

But I'll keep you posted.
 
read a few random comments how nitrogen is needed to remove extra moisture for 410a?
Nitrogen is flowed during brazing to stop oxidization of the copper, which turns into black flakes that can block orifices.
It can also be used as a cheap non toxic and dry throw away pressure testing gas, but not necessary if you vacuum the lines good.
 
What pressure is used for pressure testing? 200? 400? A quick google showed 600psi.
That is 600 psi inside the lines, not 14 psi on the outside. Pretty drastic difference.

But, if you are confident in your flares and seals a vacuum test is likely good enough
I think this. I read HVAC guys said nitrogen pressure will find leaks that vac test will not.

I know other guys mentioned they mostly had prior automotive AC experience as do I. I have NEVER heard of anyone doing a nitrogen pressure test on Auto AC, only vac test FWIW...
 
Hey you've been busy - that all looks great.

So as I understand it, both Scott and yourself envision these units for "maximum flexibility" of running off solar inverter (panels/battery), grid, or direct dedicated solar??
My 24K is running off my main battery/panel system. I have the panels to run it direct now, just need to get them hooked up. I also wired in a transfer switch that I had laying around so I can run off grid if needed. So far, I have had the capacity to just run off my main solar system. Get that house down to 65-66 degrees during the day when I'm working and then turn it off or down as the sun hides behind the horizon. If I try to run my well pump and sprinkler booster, water heaters, clothes dryer, etc and the wife decides to cook, something will have to give.....that is where I hope the direct panels will come into play.
 
Get that house down to 65-66 degrees during the day when I'm working and then turn it off or down as the sun hides behind the horizon.
Yes. It was 95 Freaking degrees here in KS yesterday. It takes awhile still for the house temp to creep up at night from 65. Then you tickle it at 2AM or whatever with a couple Kwh not a big deal, no external heat load then.
 
Well it's held vacuum pressure for 12 hours now at - 27 +/-

So I'm guessing a nitrogen leak test is not necessary?

My only concern, I've seen some videos (not many) and read a few random comments how nitrogen is needed to remove extra moisture for 410a? ?
The vacuum pulled everything out. Including any moisture.
You are good to go.
 
I think this. I read HVAC guys said nitrogen pressure will find leaks that vac test will not.

I know other guys mentioned they mostly had prior automotive AC experience as do I. I have NEVER heard of anyone doing a nitrogen pressure test on Auto AC, only vac test FWIW...
I've got the same experience. I spent 10 years and worked up to master tech before getting out of that crap industry.

I had heard it recommended to do nitrogen pressure tests, but never done it. I thing automotive AC, which mostly seals with o-rings in grooves, has to seal better due to vibrations. I've never seen a flare fitting on automotive AC.

I can't say the nitrogen test is needed, in my opinion, it's just how tolerant you are for the chance of a leak/confident in your flares.
 
Good. As the EPA tightens their thumbscrews wasn't hard to google and find reference to Nitrogen pressure test even in cars :unsure:

Since R410a is already on phase-out makes me kind of wish these were R32 units like Deye is sending to Australia/ Solaracdc.com.au

I guess if it never leaks doesn't matter?
 
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