diy solar

diy solar

Help me Install 3 EG4 Mini Split Solar Heat Pumps

I'm thinking about buying a jug of r410a. All my systems have that.
Not a bad plan, I bought a little. If you dont use resale at a huge profit most likely!

The solaracdc.com Deye units already use R32 in Australia. Kinda wish SS was bringing those not the 410 units. R410 will go up just like R12, R22, etc. Keep in mind in a perfect world it *is* possible for HVAC to not leak - my puny 4 ton Geo Florida Heat Pump from 2002 is R22. Ironically DIY install by me - no leaks. When it finally vents should be replacement time...
 
Not a bad plan, I bought a little. If you dont use resale at a huge profit most likely!

The solaracdc.com Deye units already use R32 in Australia. Kinda wish SS was bringing those not the 410 units. R410 will go up just like R12, R22, etc. Keep in mind in a perfect world it *is* possible for HVAC to not leak - my puny 4 ton Geo Florida Heat Pump from 2002 is R22. Ironically DIY install by me - no leaks. When it finally vents should be replacement time...
With the r410a phase out at the end of 2022, I am surprised SS could sell the r410a units at all in 2023.
 
Let's build a Wish List for firmware updates

for the existing EG4 AC/DC mini splits. SS is asking. Then we can all submit the same list individual.

Power in numbers. ?
 
Wish List

1. App or Firmware Update so that the AC Limiter Stays on Between Cycles (aka turning the unit off and back on either manually, scheduled or because the mppt timed out due to lack of solar power resets the AC Limiter to OFF)

2. Same for the Head Unit "Light", Fan Speeds, etc. Right now, if the head unit light is off, when the unit powers off and you turn it back on, the "Light Off" setting is not remembered and it comes back on.

3. In some cases, the Unit seems to go to sleep and has to be physically restarted IF running on DC solar input only AND solar availability gets diminished below the input threshold of the MPPT.
- IF the sun goes behind clouds long enough for the MPPT to time out its search for solar power​
- In some cases, The Unit simply will not start back up and power back on once the sun come back out (when running on DC solar only: AC breaker off or not connected)​
-The unit times out, and ...​
- You have to physically turn it back on.​

4. The room temp and the set temp seem to diverge a good bit. Example: if the unit is set to 75F, it will run the compressor to about 73F and then not come back on until the room gets to about 77F

5. App Updates
- Cloud Scheduling (which you to set an On / Off time schedule): Would be nice if the scheduling could also include settings for​
  • Temp when the unit comes on so the User could set different temps for different times of day
  • Same for the AC Limit Function, Fan Speed, Head Unit Light, etc

What else does anyone else see / Wish for?
 
Definitely #1 numero-uno selectable ability to lock the Limiter on , probably an app update.

#2 I'll find out about that when I put a unit in my Bedroom soon huh? o_O:sleep: Didn't know that...also change word "Light" for "Display" as it should be.

#3 Yes, also waiting to see how you do with panels up. As discussed not a problem for me for some reason (I'm SPECIAL??)

#4 I think nature of the beast you have to pick a number for "swing" as an Engineer so it doesn't blow itself up starting and stopping every 2 seconds even if soft start / variable speed.

#5 Yes very obvious app updates..
 
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I know we already visited this once with Jedi of Electrical @timselectric , but Tim or others I know you probably haven't much read the spec sheet or manual for these. Why is it so "prominently " specified max Isc is whatever?? What possible reason could there be for this??

Per Jedi Tim, current is pulled not pushed. Same as plugging your 0.1 amp alarm clock into your 20A circuit??
I haven't read the specs. But you are correct that amps must be drawn. Having more available isn't an issue. Except in a short circuit situation. So, if in doubt. Fuse it at the safe limit.
 
I believe (if I understood correctly) @timselectric said that the unit would not draw any more power then it needed, so it did not really matter if I understood correctly

But I think the issue would come in in the case of a short circuit. Which is what ISC is for the panel rating

Edit*** - Cant Delete apparently so I will just edit, replied from a previous page. Looks like @timselectric just answered this right above. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. My understanding is the MPPT charge controller built into the mini split would cut it off at 12amps. Well I guess which part of their documentation you believe. The below chart in the manual is what I was going off of until I saw the other value mentioned in the spec sheet. Would having a 12amp (or lower) fuse somewhere between the panels and the unit maybe the solar disconnect maybe help take the need off off the short circuit protection in the unit itself?

1686779099695.png
 
I reached out to @Markus_SignatureSolar here on the forum with our Wish List Updates Request. Here is his very quick response back from the manufacturer (shared here with permission) . And it appears to be good news for the AC Limiter.

For my requests, see the post above

RESPONSE:

1.AC limiter always on
Run the unit cooling mode, set low air flow, set temperature 90 F degree, 8 times “Ac limiter button” within 10 seconds then hear 4 times “Di Di Di Di” sound, then AC limiter will always on. If want to cancel, do the same again.

2.Light status can not be remembered, because light is important to let customer know the unit is working or not. Already our side canceled the Power on Di Di sound.

3.If the solar is not good, for example morning time or cloudy days, the unit will try 3 times to start itself, 1st time 15 minutes after the unit off, 2nd time 45 minutes later, 3rd time 1 hour later, if both 3 times start itself failed within this 2 hours, then it will not try again, and will show LP(Low Power) on display. It is set to protect the air conditioner system from cloudy and rainy days, and will protect the compressor.

4.Normally for the solar inverter air conditioner keep the actual room temperature only 2 F degree gap from the set temperature without unit compressor shut down. If the room actual temperature reach or very close to the setting temperature then compressor speed very low and with very few consumption, just keep the temperature no rise no drop. If the unit will shut off and temperature gap will reach 2F with the set temperature, it means the room is too small for the unit. For example if the room is 20 square meter but installed a 24K, then very fast the house will cool and even the lowest speed of compressor and cooling will cool the house to be low, then compressor will shut down if the gap reach 2F degree.

5.App Schedule function this is Auxiliary Functions, for details upgrading we need to step by step checking, temperature schedule is very good point of this unit for sure, we will check if we can improve our unit to be smarter
 
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Note: for the AC Limiter "Always On" Hack, I am finding you need to
1. Turn the unit on
2. Set in cool mode
3. Set to 90F
4. Set Fan to low (all as described above)
5. In the App turn off ECO mode (might also be on the remote, not sure)

But then...
6. (this made it work for me) Set the unit in AC Limit. Wait for the limiting to begin taking effect.
7. Then press the AC Limit button on the remote 8 times in 10 seconds
8. AC Limiter will remain on

Note: if you switch back and forth between the app and the remote when setting this up, when you start to tap the AC Limit button 8 times on the remote , it will default to the settings of the remote and will mess up the programing.

Also Note: Some Steps can be done with the App, but pressing the AC Limit Switch must be done on the Remote
 
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You're going to love that hack, not having to run around and BEEP the limiter on them all. To Deye's credit even with the Limiter OFF I have noted it does nicely prioritize Solar when strong Solar is available.

We might should have asked for a clarification on Isc, is 10 or 12A correct.

Just FYI , the solaracdc.com Australia R32 units have a different Isc listed, but they do differ slightly on model numbers:
 

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Just thought I'd chime in regarding the EG4 24k BTU unit.

Finished my DIY installation last month. 8 used 260 W Trina panels from Santan mounted E-W on two BrightMount kits from Signature Solar.

Rob, I'm just a little north of you, latitude-wise, in Marion County.

The split unit has no problem cooling my 1,100 square foot house although as others have noted it's taking a little patience figuring out the remote settings and how the unit is designed to cycle.

I had some shipping damage issues with Signature, which they efficiently resolved. The panel pallet from Santan was well packaged and efficiently delivered. All 10 panels arrived undamaged and as described. They all produce very close to the same voltage.

Earlier there were some comments about keeping panels clean. I have very hard water here. I wait until the panels are wet with dew or rain then wipe them down with a long-handled foam squeegee.

I appreciate all the comments. Wouldn't have attempted this without all the freely given advice here and on Will's YouTube channel.
 
Rob, I'm just a little north of you, latitude-wise, in Marion County.
Welcome, Don. They must be selling quite a few of these!! I am surprised at another member from KS, much less neighboring County!

So you are a true E-W arrangement?? Should be fantastic for Summer-Cooling. The thought has crossed my mind of the potential benefits of being able to run the units more hours per day like that :unsure::) - perhaps also a SE - SW arrangement...??
 
Up date on the AC Limite Lock function the Manufacture revealed to us recently

Note:
If you set the EG4 AC/DC unit to AC Limit "Always On" ... you Cannot turn it Off or control it at all via the remote or app. It is Locked On. You must go back thru the Lock steps to set they unit back to default to get On/Off control of the AC Limit Feature.

In some (of my) use cases, being Locked "Always On" is not problem. But in my bedroom 12k I want control of that. So my two 24k units will be set to Locked, and my 12k will be set as factory default

I have been using the Locked feature for a few days now. Works perfectly (well unless you think not being able to manually turn AC Limit on and off is a problem for your use case). But if it is a setting that you want ON all the time, "Always On" might be for you.
 
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In some (of my) use cases, being Locked "Always On" is not problem. But in my bedroom 12k I want control of that.
Yeah I thought the same, for when my Bedroom units go up. Perhaps in the future APP updates we desire can set a schedule.

So for the record 300W = "12k BTU on limiter" is not enough Cooling for the bedroom or its just more complicated than that?? General all mini split question here, does anyone know is output linear BTU / Watt, or proportionally lower/higher at reduced wattages??
 
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Yeah I thought the same, for when my Bedroom units go up. Perhaps in the future APP updates we desire can set a schedule.

So for the record 300W = "12k BTU on limiter" is not enough Cooling for the bedroom or its just more complicated than that?? General all mini split question here, does anyone know is output linear BTU / Watt, or lower/higher at reduced wattages??
I have seen a Max - ish output in watts for the 12k to be just under 1000w so far.

I can tell you with both the 12k and the 24k units, they will demand different power loads simply based on time of day, sunlight direct / indirect on the condenser, and out side temp ... REGARDLESS of room temp and set temp. In other words, you could set it for 75 in a 77 degree room, and the power draw would be different at 9pm vs 2pm in full sun

That said, I have seen the 12k be as hi as nearly 1000w and in AC Limit, as low as 199w at 11pm when the unit is set to 76 and the room is 75. At that setting, running in AC Limit mode all night, Keeps the room at 73F and slides up and down in power usage from 0 watts to 200 watts.
 
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