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Help me Install 3 EG4 Mini Split Solar Heat Pumps

Great Idea, I was trying to figure out where to get attention for that. This is really my only "complaint" personally with the product. I ran numbers, I am 2.9 Mwh under yearly avg use to date - with ONE SIMPLE PRODUCT connected to 7 panels.

Looking forward to your Solar installation/ upgrade :cool:
What wattage panels?
 
I think he has them mounted on the Sun
Canadian Solar 385W, lol - not bifacial. 25 degree tilt so it *is* blasting for Summer ☀️

The AC Limiter is on the remote too - the plug icon and "SE" ( Save Electricity ???)

And the app is WI FI - EDIT - yeah I'm sure Silverback you're correct connected back thru IOT.
 
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Canadian Solar 385W, lol - not bifacial. 25 degree tilt so it *is* blasting for Summer ☀️

The AC Limiter is on the remote too - the plug icon and "SE" ( Save Electricity ???)

And the app is WI FI - EDIT - yeah I'm sure Silverback you're correct connected back thru IOT.
I didn't realize AC limiter was on the remote
 
I used it in the winter, but I have the 24k. On VERY bad days, this would result in 300W Grid + 300W Solar, which was ok output.

As of June 1st I'm also turning AC grid back on (with Limiter, at least as frequently as I remember to TURN IT ON - as I said previously it has to be turned on EVERY. STINKING. DAY. lol - if someone finds a setting or way to make it permanent PLEASE SHARE :))

Reason for turning grid back on. I have had some clouds pass after 5 pm when I think the Sun is now BEHIND the panels. So, it has shut it off - it always restarts in my case, but it does appear the delay is 20 minutes - not so good. We'll try this and see how it compares.

MARCH-APRIL-MAY Spring I've done 100% off-grid with great success. Plan to do that again in Fall.
What do you set the limiter to when you use it?
 
12k BTU units on sale..(I personally bet that means DIY lineset Solar units inbound). Just a little more than non solar now..

SS told me all the units now come with pre-charged line sets.
 
SS told me all the units now come with pre-charged line sets.
Not all, they have both…
and the $999 sale on the OG model appears to be over for now.
 

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Not all, they have both…
and the $999 sale on the OG model appears to be over for now.
Well, I didn’t get his name. But the rep I spoke with said the AC/DC hybrids have it now.

Edit: His name was Weston A. If you recently ordered, maybe call and ask why you were not sent one with pre-charged lines.
 
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Hello MrM1,

I am new to this web site and have been reading your lengthy thread with interest, since I just ordered one of the 12k units for my garage. Yep, I saw them on sale at SS and got bitten by the shopping cart bug. I will probably start my own thread at some point as I do not want to crash yours, but I would like to know the specifics of what electrical safety products you used on the AC and DC side such as AC or DC ground fault/arc fault etc.

I am going to try to read up on the code before installation. One thing I have not seen any mention of, even in Will Prowse's review, is the use of rapid shutdown with these units. Even though it may not be required, I am thinking about adding it because the pictures and videos of DC arc fault fires scare the bleep out of me. Not to mention I have model airplane fuel and gasoline in my garage, so I told my wife if the garage ever catches on fire to run. So, I am all for putting every safety device I can think of in my installation.

Thanks for any tips on the electrical.

RDuke
 
Hello MrM1,

I am new to this web site and have been reading your lengthy thread with interest, since I just ordered one of the 12k units for my garage. Yep, I saw them on sale at SS and got bitten by the shopping cart bug. I will probably start my own thread at some point as I do not want to crash yours, but I would like to know the specifics of what electrical safety products you used on the AC and DC side such as AC or DC ground fault/arc fault etc.

I am going to try to read up on the code before installation. One thing I have not seen any mention of, even in Will Prowse's review, is the use of rapid shutdown with these units. Even though it may not be required, I am thinking about adding it because the pictures and videos of DC arc fault fires scare the bleep out of me. Not to mention I have model airplane fuel and gasoline in my garage, so I told my wife if the garage ever catches on fire to run. So, I am all for putting every safety device I can think of in my installation.

Thanks for any tips on the electrical.

RDuke
RSD is usually just used on roof installations for firefighters not to get shocked. Arc fault would be your circuit breaker. All new circuits were I live require arc fault CBs.

Also, Air conditioners require a disconnect switch close to the unit.
 
Hello MrM1,

I am new to this web site and have been reading your lengthy thread with interest, since I just ordered one of the 12k units for my garage. Yep, I saw them on sale at SS and got bitten by the shopping cart bug. I will probably start my own thread at some point as I do not want to crash yours, but I would like to know the specifics of what electrical safety products you used on the AC and DC side such as AC or DC ground fault/arc fault etc.

I am going to try to read up on the code before installation. One thing I have not seen any mention of, even in Will Prowse's review, is the use of rapid shutdown with these units. Even though it may not be required, I am thinking about adding it because the pictures and videos of DC arc fault fires scare the bleep out of me. Not to mention I have model airplane fuel and gasoline in my garage, so I told my wife if the garage ever catches on fire to run. So, I am all for putting every safety device I can think of in my installation.

Thanks for any tips on the electrical.

  • RDuke
Electrically for the 12k

AC side
  • System will never pull more than about 1,300 watts
  • on the AC side I used 12 AWG 12/2 Romex with ground (overkill ~ you could use 14/2)
  • On the spec plate (side of the evaporator) it calls for a 15 amp breaker
  • I have a 15 amp breaker in the main panel that is specific to that panel (Eaton panel)
  • Grounded on the home ground back to the main panel where you will find the only Neutral/Ground bond

DC Side in the Attic
  • I will use 10 AWG solar wire on the Roof with MC4 connectors
  • Once the DC solar wire enters the attic I will transition to stranded 12/2 MC cable. DC code inside a living structure calls for metal conduit or MC cable
  • I will transition from the Solar wire to MC using Dinkle DK6N DIN rail terminal blocks rated for 50amps and 600v UL listed
  • The transition will be in metal boxes and this will start the metal MC runs
  • All 3 solar arrays will come together in a single Midnite solar 3 20 amp DC breaker box in the attic modified so that each breaker is NOT paralleled but independent from each other. both the Positive and the Negative from each array will be independent from each other in this box. From there I have run MC 12/2 out to each of the 3 EG4 units thru the attic to the eves

AC and DC Disconnects at the unit
  • I used a 16 amp AC Din Rail breaker (single pole)
  • I used a 20 amp DC DIN Rail breaker (double pole / one for positive one for negative)
  • Both are placed in a 6 space Exterior mount DIN Rail box
  • All wiring from the 2 disconnect breakers then transitions to 12 AWG THHN each color coded for AC and DC
  • Ran it all ... including the outside to inside Air Con control wire thru 3/4" Liquid Tight as a whip
  • The ground to the Evaporator is only on the AC side and the ground of the MC at the Disconnect is not connected
12k.jpg 24k.jpg


Array Grounding
  • Each of the 3 Air Con arrays will be grounded via solid ground wire and transition to the MC 12/2
  • When the grounds go into the Midnite Solar metal breaker box, from here they will leave the MC 12/2 as it runs on out to the Air Con disconnects (not grounded there)
  • Each Array ground will be combined into one 8 AWG and run to my house Array ground rod (8 ft copper into the ground)
  • This keeps all DC array grounds out of the house grounding system
  • BUT ... to keep from creating a ground loop or 2nd grounding system, the array ground rod is connected to the Whole House Main Ground Rods x2 (6 ft apart from each other) via an 8 AWG cable ran from the array rod to the Whole house Grounding rod system.

    Hope this helps
Interested to see your outcome and how you set up the Rapid Shut down. Will there just give a quick shut off point, or will the rapid shut down you plan to use also detect Arc Faults and automatically shut down the array?
 
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RSD is usually just used on roof installations for firefighters not to get shocked. Arc fault would be your circuit breaker. All new circuits were I live require arc fault CBs.

Also, Air conditioners require a disconnect switch close to the unit.
I need to look into those. Did not know DC Arc Fault breakers existed
 
10awg Solar for the 12k BTU because it's on hand, or ??? Not much price difference 10awg vs 12awg anyway, but I'll need more wire for my next units...
 
10awg Solarfor the 12k BTU because it's on hand, or ??? Not much price difference 10awg vs 12awg anyway, but I'll need more wire for my next units...
Yeah that's how I saw it. 10 or 12 is not much more expensive than 14 so why not
 
And DC from the panels too now.
Quick Google search ... but I must admit I am wiped out (been on the roof installing ridge cap and getting ready to replace all screws in metal roof under where the array will be) ... but I am not finding DC Arc Fault breakers. If you come across them, link here. Especially if they are DIN rail
 

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