I agree with a lot of the responses here.
The first step it always to calculate your true energy usage. How many Kilowatt Hours do you use in a typical month, for each month of the year. Use the last 12 months of electric bills to get a good starting point.
Also on your electric bills, does it list many fixed fees? In my case there are a few taxes and a minimum monthly fee of $11 if I use no energy, but if I do use up to $11 worth, it does not change the bill. Ideally, it would be cool to snag those $11 worth, but it's not easy.
In most cases, the grid is by far the cheapest backup power source. About 90% of the time, my 6,800 watts of solar panels produces all the power and energy my house needs. But those other 10% of the time, I have to pull power from the grid. Large surge currents also come from the grid in my setup. But that won't be practical to do unless you get a net energy deal. And that might end up costing you more. I think your best bet would be to do it all behind the meter with zero export. Have solar panels charging up batteries that can run the house loads for 2 days. Most of the time, the batteries will get topped off before sun down, and you run off the batteries until the next morning. But if you use too much power and/or have poor sunlight, the battery will run down to a shut down level and at that point, it will revert you back to grid power. When the sun comes back up, it starts charging the batteries again, and once they are back into a safe level, you go back to running off the batteries.
Do you have land space for a ground mount solar array, or will the panels go on the roof of the mobile home?
Ground mount may not need permits and will have much easier safety rules. Putting them on the roof could be a major problem. You would need to check with your local building codes. Solar panels mounted on top of a living space have the most strict requirements. If you need to tilt them up, you will also need to worry about wind loading. Screwing them into a sheet metal roof may not be strong enough.
And lastly, I do want to comment on the "safety" of a 48 volt system. I have worked on equipment with up to 480 volt 3 phase feeds. So when I started working on my "48 volt" battery bank, I didn't even think about it, it's just batteries, right?
I know they were capable of hundreds of amps, so I was still very careful with tools, and during the build, I only ever touched one terminal at a time, so it went very smooth with no shocks. But after the system was up and running well over a year, my BMS unit shut down the battery bank. I was still able to connect to the bluetooth and it was reporting 2 cell groups at zero volts. But when I measured everything with my meter, it all seemed fine. It turned out one of the balance sense wires had failed. So when it tried to measure the voltage of the cell on either side of the lead, it got a zero reading.
To make the story a bit shorter, I had to trace and repair the failed lead, in 110F (43C) heat. I was wearing a short sleeve shirt and was quite sweaty. Like a fool, I didn't put on my insulating gloves. The battery was disconnected, so my kneeling on the ground while touching one balance lead at a time was not an issue, but while I was holding one lead on the meter, my fore arm brushed the bare tab of another cell in the string.
I am still not sure how many cells I was across, but it was probably in the 30 to 40 volt range (full battery can reach 58 volts). From my fingers to my for arm, my muscle spasmed hard and my whole arm did a hard tingle, similar to the battery on your tongue, multiplied 5 times over. I was able to drop the meter lead and pull my arm back from the other cell pretty fast, but my entire arm ached for a few hours. The sensation was worse than the last time I remember hitting 120 volts AC. A 48 volt battery system is no joke. It may be less likely to make a decent connection, but if you do, it can be bad news. Since then, I always wear my "low voltage" rubber gloves if I am working near the cells and terminals. I do have a real pair of Class "0" gloves, but they are just plain impossible to use for delicate work as they are rated to 1,000 Volts. The ones I use for 120 volt home wiring and now on my battery system are not officially rated as insulating gloves, but they are fine to about 200 volts. They are a little thinner and lighter than class "00" 500 volt gloves.
Must stop digitally heat-testing my LFP connections, then 
