diy solar

diy solar

I dont trust this RELIABLE inverter

So What do I need then?

This would work:


Essentially a re-branded Sigineer that's essentially identical to an AIMS inverter (Sigineer makes AIMS).

3kW continuous and 9kW surge. Downside is the aforementioned 40-50W continuous drain. These aren't particularly efficient, but they kick the crap out of surge loads. Neighbor uses the 6kW/24V version to run his 3hp Grundfos pump 700' down.
 
This would work:


Essentially a re-branded Sigineer that's essentially identical to an AIMS inverter (Sigineer makes AIMS).

3kW continuous and 9kW surge. Downside is the aforementioned 40-50W continuous drain. These aren't particularly efficient, but they kick the crap out of surge loads. Neighbor uses the 6kW/24V version to run his 3hp Grundfos pump 700' down.
I've seen many thus style. Is the shape a give away to it being a transformer lf inverter. Are these modified sine usually?
 
If you're repeatedly initiating overloads that cause full or partial shutdowns, probably.
It hasn't ever shut down while initiating a load. What happens is the output sags enough that the first unit that's running shuts off just the compressor and eventually comes back on without a problem. I think if I were to have the bigger one on first I might have a problem with it never starting up.
If they were both 5000btu units at the 5amp 500w draw range it probably wouldn't drop out on the one. I hate these modern ac units. They run 5 mins before kicking on every time turned off. One even has wifi and no app that's supported anymore from 2019 or 2220. I have a older 10,000 btu that just kicks on right away. No waiting. But it's too inefficient and draws a ton on start. Then we have a portable one that sucks. I could try that instead. It claims to have a rotary motor
Added 2 more panels for clouds today . Almost 14kwh in 24hrs..
20220710_160550.jpg 100 and cloudy. Storms might be near20220710_161159.jpg20220710_161027.jpg
 
According to the manual, If i'm not mistaken, the outlet is not rated for more than 10 or 15A (total, for both of them). You should use the other contacts and you're own cable / outlets.

I do have a 3000W/48V version, running the whole house with it non stop since half a year so far.
 
According to the manual, If i'm not mistaken, the outlet is not rated for more than 10 or 15A (total, for both of them). You should use the other contacts and you're own cable / outlets.

I do have a 3000W/48V version, running the whole house with it non stop since half a year so far.
I would like to jump to 48v
 
BTW, the Hot and Neutral of the two NEMA 5-15R outlets are reversed from the output terminals.
They are do not use 14ga wires on those two NEMA 5-15R PCB to the main board, the wires for the terminals are also not 10ga.
I have the 1500W and 3000W units, both of them are reversed.
 
BTW, the Hot and Neutral of the two NEMA 5-15R outlets are reversed from the output terminals.
They are do not use 14ga wires on those two NEMA 5-15R PCB to the main board, the wires for the terminals are also not 10ga.
I have the 1500W and 3000W units, both of them are reversed.
So the neutral is hot?
 
If you Ohm out the AC outlets HOT and AC output terminal HOT, you will find that it has high resistance that is because they did not wire the unit correctly.
BTW, no power to the unit and no load connected while checking the resistance.
Even the newer model is still wired wrong.
 
If you Ohm out the AC outlets HOT and AC output terminal HOT, you will find that it has high resistance that is because they did not wire the unit correctly.
BTW, no power to the unit and no load connected while checking the resistance.
Even the newer model is still wired wrong.
So did you just switch the wires?
 
Hmmm, good to know, will check mine.... Eventually (I never use the outlets anyway)
 
The wires from the main board are soldered to the NEMA outlet PCB assembly, so I just made 3 new wires (L, N, and Gnd) for it and switch the L and N.
I would have to see it inside but would think you could just switch the wires from the board so it looks normal. What colors do they use the goofy yellow red green?
 
I did the rewire because the wires look to be like 16ga, I could have switch the quick connectors on the main board and be done with it or you can just re-label the L and N on the outlet terminals.
 
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