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Looking for 48v dc light switch

dmpiowa

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Mar 23, 2022
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Hi, first post here. I am looking for a 48v dc light switch solution for our cabin. I know leviton (Model #: 12021-2I) is dc rated for 24v at 3 amps. I know that the the reason NOT to use a regular switch is because of dc arcing. I want to run off the batteries so I can turn the inverter off at night to save on battery draw. I can't find a 48v rated light switch so I can only think of two options.

1. Run a 48v to 24v dc converter and run the lights on 24 volts.

2. Use a SSR-40DD solid state relay that turns on with 12-24 volts to use the leviton switch and still provide 48v to the lights. I am already using a 48 to 12 volt dc converter (60 amp) to run my dc refrigerator.

Am I overlooking a better option?

Thanks, Dan
 
Would something like this work? Derated to 10% for DC current? That would make it rated for 60v DC?


This was the 24 volt switch I was talking about

 
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I wouldn't have any problem using a standard light switch for LED lights at 48V. If they are inverter based, the input has a capacitor to keep the voltage up for a very short time making the delta voltage small . If straight LED, the string of LED has a significant forward voltage also making delta voltage across the switch quite small.
 
If you're concerned about potentially shorting the circuit and the switch not being able to disconnect due to welding itself shut, you should be fusing this branch circuit anyway.
 
The light circuit will be fused. I will be using these lights.


There will only be 60 watts or less of led lights on the switch. My primary concern is the dc arcing in the switch pitting the contacts.

EfficentPV, would the 600v AC motor switch or the 24v DC switch be better for this circuit?
 
60 watts = 1.25 amps at 48VDC. You're not likely to have much of an arc with only 1 amp of draw.
 
I wouldn't have any problem using a standard light switch for LED lights at 48V. If they are inverter based, the input has a capacitor to keep the voltage up for a very short time making the delta voltage small . If straight LED, the string of LED has a significant forward voltage also making delta voltage across the switch quite small.
EfficentPV, would the 600v AC motor switch or the 24v DC switch be better for this circuit?
 
Am I overlooking a better option?
How about small inverter dedicated to just the lighting? Something like the Victron Phoenix or Exceltech XP. Not quite as efficient as a DC solution but certainly easier to manage in the long run.

I'd be reluctant to base my lighting on difficult to source DC light bulbs. I'll mention that the DC lights that I've played around with were unreliable and that their lighting quality was poor. YMMV
 
How about small inverter dedicated to just the lighting? Something like the Victron Phoenix or Exceltech XP. Not quite as efficient as a DC solution but certainly easier to manage in the long run.

I'd be reluctant to base my lighting on difficult to source DC light bulbs. I'll mention that the DC lights that I've played around with were unreliable and that their lighting quality was poor. YMMV
In terms of overall safety for your dollar, this sounds like a very good solution. You can stick with dirt-cheap ac switches and lights, you have overload protection built into a small inverter, and the idle draw for a good-but-small inverter will be minor.
Plus if you want to change your mind down the road and run everything off of your big inverter, you don’t need to replace anything.
 
Use RV 12 volt and regular snap switches or just wire the whole thing for standard 120 lighting and run it off a small inverter.

However, I don't know if any "tiny" 48 volt inverters exist.

Keeping the lighting 12v gives you access to the dizzying array of fixtures and bulbs that get used in the RV industry.

And yes, normal household snap switches are fine.
 
Leviton spec: Amperage : 3 A / Grounding : Self-Grounding / Voltage : 34 VAC/VDC
They are rated 3A at 34Vdc... man it's sure those will last forever if you switch 48V led light who pull fraction of Amps.
 
Use RV 12 volt and regular snap switches or just wire the whole thing for standard 120 lighting and run it off a small inverter.

However, I don't know if any "tiny" 48 volt inverters exist.

Keeping the lighting 12v gives you access to the dizzying array of fixtures and bulbs that get used in the RV industry.

And yes, normal household snap switches are fine.
I sound like a blue fanboy, but I post what I know. Victron has 250VA (200 watt), 350VA (300 watt), 500VA (400 watt) inverters in 48 volt if you would want to isolate the lighting to one small inverter. I have been thinking of something similar myself.
 
Let's play with the numbers:

250VA Victron Phoenix publishes 88% efficient, uses less than 3 watts in idle mode (ECO) and be bought for less than $100.

60 watts of AC lighting would need ~ 70 watts from the battery assuming an inverter efficiency of 85%

Assuming lights run 6 hours/day so 18 hrs. of inverter in ECO mode.

10 watts x 6 hours = 60 watt hours “wasted”
plus
18 hrs/day x 3 watts = 54 watt hours “wasted”

~114 watt hours wasted per day. Give or take that’s 25 extra watts of PV (feel free to double check all that)
 
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Are you sure about cold white?
Those color temperature are often not pleasant to the eyes (kind blue-white).
Warm white if generally desirable in a house/cabin.

Yes. Even "daylight" colors are too white/blue for living spaces to me. They're ok for storage and garage areas and the like but as close to incandescent as possible foe LED's in living spaces for sure.
 
I like 3000k-3500k for many living spaces. A little less yellow than incandescent 2700k but not blue. The 4500-6000k range for bath, garage, basement, etc.
 
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