Looking for one controller that puts out 120v/220vac.

[Jim Burrow]

Well powers has done tons of recordings on All-In-One inverter/controllers but it would take hours to rewatch all of them again. So, I would like to ask a question of these controllers.

I’ve been using the MPPT 2424lv for two years, but I need to get a different one because to use the 2424lv I have now, I had to modify my home sub electrical box by slitting it into two sections and removing the 220 volt and connecting the 120vac output into the panel.

The park I live in is having an inspection and one of the things they are looking at is if the electrical sub panel has been tampered with. So, I’m looking for a good all-in-one controller that puts out both 120v/220vac without having to parallel two controller to get the 220vac. That way I can connect it to my sub panel without any modifications.

All the controllers that I’ve looked at either require an external Auto Transformer or requires connecting two controllers in parallel to get the 220vac.

My research on these auto transformers like the one by Growth, have problems with electrical balance and heat as they only have one coil, and they tape into the one coil to get 120/220 vac. – not good!

Does anyone in this group have any recommendations of a good controller/inverter that has the transformer inside it to deliver both 120/220vac output without having to parallel two controllers. – My home is only using on the average 350 watts per hour and up to 900 watts when the house heater comes on.

 

[mopat]

Since you're familiar with the LV2424 have you considered their LV5048 or LV6048?

 

[Jim Burrow]

Since you're familiar with the LV2424 have you considered their LV5048 or LV6048?

 

[Jim Burrow]

No, I haven't, I will look into those now. I just watched a YouTube video one the Growatt 12kW Split Phase Off-Grid Inverter | SPF 12000T DVM - Signature Solar.
It looks like it will do what I want although perhaps an over kill. but it is only $2,000

 

[iamrich]

or requires connecting two controllers in parallel to get the 220vac.

I was going to suggest adding another LV2424. That would get you 240 with the least amount of expense, but honestly none of the MPP stuff is UL listed (only very few are even UL "certified"). Is the inspector going to go for that?

 

[sunshine_eggo]

No, I haven't, I will look into those now. I just watched a YouTube video one the Growatt 12kW Split Phase Off-Grid Inverter | SPF 12000T DVM - Signature Solar.
It looks like it will do what I want although perhaps an over kill. but it is only $2,000

Keep in mind that the larger units will burn more idle power. The 12kW Growatt is a monster and burns at least 160W 24/7.

 

[Jim Burrow]

I was going to suggest adding another LV2424. That would get you 240 with the least amount of expense, but honestly none of the MPP stuff is UL listed (only very few are even UL "certified"). Is the inspector going to go for that?

No having to controllers is not an option as I need to keep it clean and as little components as possible. In reality, I only need 220vac for my air conditioner. Right now my 220vac air conditioner is connected directly to the utility meter via a master switch, which the air conditioner repairman recommended. But doing that, the park inspection person will not like that as I removed the 220vac from my subpanel.
Having a controller like the LV6548 or the Growth 6000T which put out both 120vac and 220vac, I can have the 220vac in my subpanel. The only problem is that I would need a controller that can handle the A/C surge current.
Watching Will Powers video on the LV6048/LV6584, looks like they would work and are $600 cheaper that the Growatts.
This group has given me ideas to think about to replace my LV2424.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

No having to controllers is not an option as I need to keep it clean and as little components as possible. In reality, I only need 220vac for my air conditioner. Right now my 220vac air conditioner is connected directly to the utility meter via a master switch, which the air conditioner repairman recommended. But doing that, the park inspection person will not like that as I removed the 220vac from my subpanel.
Having a controller like the LV6548 or the Growth 6000T which put out both 120vac and 220vac, I can have the 220vac in my subpanel. The only problem is that I would need a controller that can handle the A/C surge current.
Watching Will Powers video on the LV6048/LV6584, looks like they would work and are $600 cheaper that the Growatts.
This group has given me ideas to think about to replace my LV2424.

You are embarking on a whole 'nother level here.

A/C units use lots of power and have mega surge. I would not have confidence in either LV unit you referenced. What is the LRA rating of your A/C unit?

 

[acdoctor]

For clarity, you mentioned park. Is this a RV park?

 

[iamrich]

Having a controller like the LV6548 or the Growth 6000T which put out both 120vac and 220vac, I can have the 220vac in my subpanel. The only problem is that I would need a controller that can handle the A/C surge current.

Biggest issue is that these units have a big idle draw. As long as you have the panels to cover that you should be ok. I took a long look at the 6000T (especially because of the price point), but in the end I felt the LVX6048 was a better deal because I can add to it if for some reason it is not enough, and the N/G setup is simpler to me.

To give you an idea, my head is already spinning thinking about the idle draw the two LVX6048s I just ordered are going to have. I am thinking 6kwh a day just to keep the inverters running. I will likely end up with a 15kw array, so during the day (assuming the sun comes out) will be no issue, but I will burn 3-4kwh of battery just sitting there each night

 

[Jim Burrow]

You are embarking on a whole 'nother level here.

A/C units use lots of power and have mega surge. I would not have confidence in either LV unit you referenced. What is the LRA rating of your A/C unit?

You are right, but I'm crossing that there is a controller that could handle the A/C surge current of 22 amps and study current of 15 amps. The LRA is 105. I will most likely end up doing what I'm doing right now and that is have the 120vac A/C independent of the house load via a controller. But it would be nice not to have to modify my sub-panel.

If I go that route, there will be no need for a controller that puts out 220vac. I will just need a bigger 120vac controller as my LV2424 cannot handle any current greater than 22 amps without turning itself off for a minute.

So, I may end up having to rip my Solar system out and hid it every time the California Department of Housing and Community Development (hcd) come by and do an expectation. And put the electrical system back to the default wiring every time until the expectation is over.
I live in a 1250 sq.ft. Manufactured home in a Mobil Park. The good news is that they don't come by that often. the last time was about 10 years ago. Being retired and 77, I may not see another inspection.

 

[Jim Burrow]

For clarity, you mentioned park. Is this a RV park?

It is a Mobil home Park. I live in a 1250 sq.ft. Manufactured home. The wife and I are retired and downsized 9 years ago. But the park has inspections by the California Department of Housing and Community Development (hcd) every now and then. But not frequent. That last time to my understanding was about 10 years ago.
So that being the case, this may be the only time I will have to rip out my solar system and put the electrical sub-panel back to the default wiring. But once the inspection is over, I will get a bigger controller that can handle the whole house load except for the A/C which I will probably do what I am doing now and that is to have the 220vac A/C independent of the controller and connected via a master switch of course, directly to the Utility line from the meter.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

You are right, but I'm crossing that there is a controller that could handle the A/C surge current of 22 amps and study current of 15 amps. The LRA is 105. I will most likely end up doing what I'm doing right now and that is have the 120vac A/C independent of the house load via a controller. But it would be nice not to have to modify my sub-panel.

Surge of 22A? Plan for LRA.

105A * 240V = 25.2kW

I really think you should just get a small split phase and keep the A/C on grid.

 

[Jim Burrow]

Surge of 22A? Plan for LRA.

105A * 240V = 25.2kW

I really think you should just get a small split phase and keep the A/C on grid.

Yep, it sure is looking that way. It's no problem though to do it that way. With respect to inspectors of hour manufactured homes in this park, they give us a 6 week notice to clean things up for the inspection. It only takes me 30 minutes, 45 tops to rip out my solar and put the electrical sub-panel back the way it was before I tampered with it.

 

[Jim Burrow]

I have been looking for an off-grid controller/inverter to replace my MPPT LV242 that I can connect to Utility to the input of the controller and the output of the controller will connect to my house electrical sub-panel without any modifications to it. Hence, I want the controller to be split phase, 120vac and 240vac.

I just watched a good YouTube video on the 12kw growatts controller/inverter by Average Joe.

What I'm looking for is a controller that I can run all my 120vac appliance including the microwave (1800w). Although this Growatts controller looks like it could handle my A/C 240vac, 15a unit (3360 watts, after surge) I think I will be better off not having the A/C go through the controlller/inverter and keep it connected to the grid directly as I'm doing now.

Here is a link to average joe YouTube video for anyone else looking for what I'm looking for.

12kw Growatt Inverter Operational Check/Review!!

 

[iamrich]

Growatt 12kw is 50a (240v) and has a big ass transformer. It could likely run your whole house (AC included) as long as you have the panels and batteries to support it. I am pretty sure you could just run the power from the meter through a 100a breaker, feed it directly into the Growatt, and then have that feed the whole panel. I am pretty sure that is what Ian at Watts247 is using on his house.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

I have been looking for an off-grid controller/inverter to replace my MPPT LV242 that I can connect to Utility to the input of the controller and the output of the controller will connect to my house electrical sub-panel without any modifications to it. Hence, I want the controller to be split phase, 120vac and 240vac.

I just watched a good YouTube video on the 12kw growatts controller/inverter by Average Joe.

What I'm looking for is a controller that I can run all my 120vac appliance including the microwave (1800w). Although this Growatts controller looks like it could handle my A/C 240vac, 15a unit (3360 watts, after surge) I think I will be better off not having the A/C go through the controlller/inverter and keep it connected to the grid directly as I'm doing now.

Here is a link to average joe YouTube video for anyone else looking for what I'm looking for.

12kw Growatt Inverter Operational Check/Review!!

At 11:45 in your video, it gives you the idle power consumption - 160W. 160W * 24h = 3.84kWh

From above:

Keep in mind that the larger units will burn more idle power. The 12kW Growatt is a monster and burns at least 160W 24/7.

3.84kWh is 3X Battleborns of capacity - just to turn it on. IIRC, your panel position is suboptimal, and you can't tilt your panels favorably. Assuming you COULD tilt them favorably, you'd need about 800W of solar just to feed what the inverter burns every day.

And did you hear how loud it is?

You might want to reach out to Ian @ watts247 to see if he has any suggestions for you.

 

[racegunz]

You might consider switching your AC to a mini split, they have one now that runs on direct solar panel input! I have a LVX6048 and 120 ampHR of 48 vlt battery and it runs my 28,000 btu mini split day and night in AC mode no issues without Grid hook up at all. I doubt it would run it in heat all night but you are in Cali so maybe not an issue for you.

 

[iamrich]

You might consider switching your AC to a mini split, they have one now that runs on direct solar panel input! I have a LVX6048 and 120 ampHR of 48 vlt battery and it runs my 28,000 btu mini split day and night in AC mode no issues without Grid hook up at all. I doubt it would run it in heat all night but you are in Cali so maybe not an issue for you.

What else are you running off the LVX6048? I have two of them coming for my house being built and am very curious to see any pics or details.

 

[racegunz]

I have a critical load panel and back feed the surplus to the house/grid. I run the minisplit and when needed a lathe and Mill. The mill main quill will not start without battery as the surge is too high. Basically the system will run my shop and in an emergency I could wire it up to feed the house circuit. I have 5.6 KW of panels and a 120 amp hr 48 vlt battery. I am thinking about expanding to a parallel set up but not sure as I don't have much room left for panels.
See here for my ongoing issue,https://diysolarforum.com/threads/mpp-solar-lvx-6048-fault-code-8.39544/
just today I missed the replacement inverter delivery from Watts 24/7, I hope this fixes the fault when switching to battery while on Grid.