diy solar

diy solar

Need "Smart-BMS" as replacement for ShunBin Pack

There will be no hammering of copper pipe, worst case I'll keep the heavy aluminium IF I can't get good 110 copper bar stock from the local metal shop.
Steve, I followed the link to the Ebay auction in your post above, and was scratching my head as to why you were opting for the nickel plated steel bars??? And then I read further down where you realized the error.

I have received several orders of tinned solid copper bars from Online Metals and from AFI, and have been very happy with the quality...


 
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"The Current RS232 <-> PC protocol info for the programmers out there. (I'm adding this into my Node-Red Solar Control project)"


Hi Steve,

I read that you use the BMS 8T and that your adding the PC protocol to your Node-Red-Solar Control project.
I'm very interested in how I can read the data of the RS 232. Can you give me a link where I can find this project?

Thanks
 
"The Current RS232 <-> PC protocol info for the programmers out there. (I'm adding this into my Node-Red Solar Control project)"
Hi Steve,
I read that you use the BMS 8T and that your adding the PC protocol to your Node-Red-Solar Control project.
I'm very interested in how I can read the data of the RS 232. Can you give me a link where I can find this project?
Thanks
Unfortunately I cannot make my app available as it contains proprietary Samlex Modbus protocol stack info in it which I have access to, due to having signed NDA's with Samlex which prevents disclosure. My first "touch it P.O.C." project was just getting to talk to my Midnite Classic Controller and pulling it's Modbus registers. It has no Samlex info in it, so you can look at that but WARNING... It is a "touch it" app meaning very rough, just get it going and see if it works test, It's semi documented and laid out here, may be worth a look if your interested.
http://midniteftp.com/forum/index.php?topic=4608.0

I believe I posted the RS232 info sheet into the Chargery Thread.

My project is based on a Raspi running Node-Red, Grafana & InfluxDB and was inspired by Andreas Spiess on YT
 
@Steve_S
Hi steve, you have been super helpful to me in the past, so, if you dont mind another 'newbie' question.... The system i'm currently working on really only needs the 100A version of the chargery BMS16T, however, with a view to future expandability, (other than cost implications) any downsides to getting the 600A version with the larger calibrated shunt and only running 100A through it. I'm assuming the 600A shunt will be every bit as accurate measuring 100A loads/20A charges going through it, as it would the specs it was designed for???
I simply love the fact that with this unit, the main load is running through the relay and not through the chargery module itself(only the balance/reference leads connected), thus heat issues should be non existant.....should mean longevity.
Thanks again.
 
You can use any size of shunt you want as long as it does now exceed 75mv. I personally use the Deltec 500A/50mv ones. The Amperage on the shunt is for the maximum load it can handle and does not affect the accuracy. The Relays on the other hand are also important as they have to handle the max load you can put through them. Again, it's one of those things that you should use care with... It is better to get ones that handle bigger loads and have a margin rather than to try and squeeze a few cents and nd up short & frying a relay.

I just do not like the type of shunt they provide, it has no backing or mounting / affixing method and they are not pure brass. I'm sure they work within spec but it is a personal "picky" thing. I did suggest to Chargery that they should offer a better quality shunt but I don't think they will.
 
You can use any size of shunt you want as long as it does now exceed 75mv. I personally use the Deltec 500A/50mv ones. The Amperage on the shunt is for the maximum load it can handle and does not affect the accuracy. The Relays on the other hand are also important as they have to handle the max load you can put through them. Again, it's one of those things that you should use care with... It is better to get ones that handle bigger loads and have a margin rather than to try and squeeze a few cents and nd up short & frying a relay.

I just do not like the type of shunt they provide, it has no backing or mounting / affixing method and they are not pure brass. I'm sure they work within spec but it is a personal "picky" thing. I did suggest to Chargery that they should offer a better quality shunt but I don't think they will.
Thanks steve, just as i thought, but great to have confirmation (y)
 
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You can use any size of shunt you want as long as it does now exceed 75mv. I personally use the Deltec 500A/50mv ones. The Amperage on the shunt is for the maximum load it can handle and does not affect the accuracy. The Relays on the other hand are also important as they have to handle the max load you can put through them. Again, it's one of those things that you should use care with... It is better to get ones that handle bigger loads and have a margin rather than to try and squeeze a few cents and nd up short & frying a relay.

I just do not like the type of shunt they provide, it has no backing or mounting / affixing method and they are not pure brass. I'm sure they work within spec but it is a personal "picky" thing. I did suggest to Chargery that they should offer a better quality shunt but I don't think they will.

Are you sure that the caliber of the shunt does not impact the precision of its current mesurement? It's my understanding that a "x A / y mV" shunt is basically a very low resistor that will provoke a "y" mV voltage drop when "x" amps go through it. As the relationship between current and voltage drop is linear, it is then this voltage drop that is measured by the Chargery BMS to infer the current. So if the electronics that is dedicated to the shunt can measure the voltage with an accuracy of +/-1 mV for instance (I don't know what the real value is for the Chargery), this means that a shunt rated at 100A/75mV will allow to measure the current with an accuracy of (100A/75mV)*(+/-1mV) = +/-1.33A. If instead you use a 500A/50mV shunt, you will get an accuracy of (500A/50mV)*(+/-1mV) = +/-10A. So I believe that accuracy decreases quite substantially with the rating of the shunt.

Also I'm not convinced that it would be bad to occasionally have currents going through the shunt that are higher than its rating. The shunt itself should handle it quite easily even though it might then dissipate more energy than a higher-rated shunt would have (remember it's just a very low resistor, and higher-rated shunts have lower resistance). It's more on the electronics side that I would be concerned, but I doubt that the measurement circuit of the BMS would not handle a ponctual overvoltage, especially since we're talking about millivolts here... Maybe it won't measure it correctly but if it's just transitory current peaks at the start of some loads for instance I don't think it matters. However I cannot back this up with experimental results, I actually don't see how I could produce a current higher than 100A yet ^^

So personally I went with the 100A shunt with the Chargery, to try to have the most accurate measurement, plus I don't expect to often cross 100A as it will ben installed on a 48V battery pack.
 
I'm running 24V system here and I have exceeded 100A, not often but it can happen with a 4kw Inverter. My Midnite E-Panel uses a 500A/50mv shunt to monitor the whole system input/output. As for the Chargery, it has to be calibrated to the new shunt and once done it seems quite accurate, I can't say for other BMS' as there is too many varieties. Just my personal thing, but I prefer to have a larger shunt and no worries of over amping.

There are multi-mode battery monitors like Will uses in his videos that come with Hall sensors, both pass-through and clamp-over types from various vendors, if used ina stationary application they should be pretty good and no need for a break in the wiring for them either. It's unfortunate that Chargery does not offer a Hall Sensor or Shunt option.
 
Are you sure that the caliber of the shunt does not impact the precision of its current mesurement? It's my understanding that a "x A / y mV" shunt is basically a very low resistor that will provoke a "y" mV voltage drop when "x" amps go through it. As the relationship between current and voltage drop is linear, it is then this voltage drop that is measured by the Chargery BMS to infer the current. So if the electronics that is dedicated to the shunt can measure the voltage with an accuracy of +/-1 mV for instance (I don't know what the real value is for the Chargery), this means that a shunt rated at 100A/75mV will allow to measure the current with an accuracy of (100A/75mV)*(+/-1mV) = +/-1.33A. If instead you use a 500A/50mV shunt, you will get an accuracy of (500A/50mV)*(+/-1mV) = +/-10A. So I believe that accuracy decreases quite substantially with the rating of the shunt.

Also I'm not convinced that it would be bad to occasionally have currents going through the shunt that are higher than its rating. The shunt itself should handle it quite easily even though it might then dissipate more energy than a higher-rated shunt would have (remember it's just a very low resistor, and higher-rated shunts have lower resistance). It's more on the electronics side that I would be concerned, but I doubt that the measurement circuit of the BMS would not handle a ponctual overvoltage, especially since we're talking about millivolts here... Maybe it won't measure it correctly but if it's just transitory current peaks at the start of some loads for instance I don't think it matters. However I cannot back this up with experimental results, I actually don't see how I could produce a current higher than 100A yet ^^

So personally I went with the 100A shunt with the Chargery, to try to have the most accurate measurement, plus I don't expect to often cross 100A as it will ben installed on a 48V battery pack.
@astronom
Thanks for that astronom, i was thinking of that totally differently. I had thought, in the 100A shunt, that each 75mV difference/drop would give 1333 points of reference and each one would equal 0.075A
In the 600A shunt, each 75mV difference/drop would give a total of 8000 points of reference and each one would equal 0.075A (same accuracy).
In the 500A shunt, each 50mV difference/drop would give a total of 10000 points of reference and each one would equal 0.05A (greater accuracy)

Guess i still have a lot to learn :eek:
 
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Much depends on the bit count & voltage limits of the analog to digital converter (ADC). The sensor I'm currently experimenting with is 16 bit .256v (256mv) max that gives a precision of 0.0011444a (1.1ma) for a 500a 75ma shunt.
A 100mv shunt would offer even more precision.

For reliable service from the shunt you should not pass > 50% of its amperage rating or heat may alter its characteristics.
 
I recently purchased a ShunBin 24/400AH LFP ( <- the thread) pack, upon investigation, I determined that the BMS is too dubious "for my liking" and with no temp monitoring, no info and no way to know what it is doing, not interested. I also wanted to have a Battery Monitor to be able to see the state of affairs within the pack. Will has a video with a Bluetooth equipped 8-16S Smart BMS which is particularly interesting and at a good price point. OK, I'm feeling pinched with the pack purchase. But I would prefer PC / RaspberryPi access to the monitor/bms and there are a few out there. Of course there is TinyBMS and I also found this one which is quite a complete "Kit" and also at a reasonable price.

There is also the version from Will's Video for 24V up to 300A, including LCD display, Bluetooth and the harnesses etc.

I was looking at Daly BMS but they do not seem to have a 24V 100A / 150A smart BMS that can also talk PC, that I could find.
If anyone has suggestions for known good Smart BMS that would do the job, much appreciated. One which won't break a stressed budget, ;)


The Pack is 16 LFP Cells setup as 8s - showing it's provided BMS.
pack-view-jpg.2697
RE: the Balance 1.2A Chargery BMS16T 2S - 16S LiPo lifepo4 LTO Li-ion Battery BMS Smart and the
8S 10S 24S Lifepo4 li-ion Lipo LTO Battery Protection Board Bluetooth Smart BMS



Thanks. These are just the kind of options I want to examine as I get ready to purchase for a DIY 24v 280 Ah or 560Ah battery set. Was considering Daly 200 Amp common pole for the 280Ah, for the simple & durable impression I have of em (just from studying) . I am now leaning into: I want to see the specifics of each 3.2v cell; not only to learn more on my 1st DIY LifePO4 effort, but also for the adjustments options that I might later use to protect my investment. Wow to the info. you are sharing here . I will mark and study this threads. Thanks ;+) Bill
 
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I too had a challenge picking a suitable BMS for my ShunBin 400ah batteries. Currently using Orion BMS2 Jr capable of 16s control. Found setup a challenge due to lacking information from the battery manufacturer. This Orion BMS will give information overload on your batteries and power usage also will allow multiple redundancies for your pack control. I find this essential to protect the bank and the wife. Now most of you will find me crazy placing batteries next to our bed and on the wife's side to boot. But it was the best and most practical location in our motorhome, and the escape window is on my side anyway so all's good.?
24v 400ah Victron 5000VA system & Color Control GX running on canbus. 20200307_130630.jpg
 
Looks Good. I hope to further update my newbie knowledge of BMS options and LifePo4 options by grounding in hands on knowledge while dialing in my 1st ever DIY 24v 280 Ah build. I have thoughts that I will be building other sets afterwards. Still crossing my fingers on my recent xuba purchase (8 * 280 Ah cells) being shippped DDP via sea route to my California door. Independent Energy Options get my double thumbs up.
 
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