You meant well.Sorry about that I misread the post....
I was very fixated on inverters for the last few months while doing my due diligence research for my own system. Figures I ended up with the best.
You meant well.Sorry about that I misread the post....
FWIW I tested my Reliable 2500W inverter with my house breaker panel. Per above the Reliable manual states “if the house neutral is combined with the ground, connect the black wire with it. Do not connect the inverter yellow wire (ground) with the black wire (neutral).”Some Reliable inverters have a "floating" neutral which measures 60V hot-ground and 60V neutral-ground. Hot-neutral will measure 120V.
I was planning to purchase the 3000W 48V model that has a much larger case. But the 2500W model was around $100 less, and considering I will likely never load over 1800W bought it instead. The rare time my frugality has actually paid off.I believe they only used this method on some of their larger inverters to save money. Even with this issue, I've had no problems with the inverter.
I was planning to purchase the 3000W 48V model that has a much larger case. But the 2500W model was around $100 less, and considering I will likely never load over 1800W bought it instead. The rare time my frugality has actually paid off.
Otherwise would make an interesting test on your 5000W bonding the neutral with with an inline fuse since mine also has the 60-0-60 issue.
I was planning to purchase the 3000W 48V model that has a much larger case. But the 2500W model was around $100 less, and considering I will likely never load over 1800W bought it instead. The rare time my frugality has actually paid off.
Otherwise would make an interesting test on your 5000W bonding the neutral with with an inline fuse since mine also has the 60-0-60 issue.
Not a crapshoot though if you buy an inverter that meets the U.L. (or ETL) standards.My 3000w 48v WZRELB does not have the problem. It’s about 5 years old.
Others have it. A total crapshoot.
Risk you run when you rate watts per dollar as more important than everything else. I get it, solar power ends up being a lot more expensive than a naive impression can conceive of. Once the cost of batteries are finally accepted, the urge to reduce costs elsewhere are very strong. And one metal box looks much like another.Not a crapshoot though if you buy an inverter that meets the U.L. (or ETL) standards.
I bought a "Accurate Tools" 3000 watt inverter on ebay for a little over $200. It of course had (unbeknownst to me such a problem even existed) the bonding issue. It was a perfectly good inverter otherwise, and I sold it for $170 on the list of craigs. I figure I paid $30 for 'tuition" to learn about this. Oh well. Bought an AIMS for $350 (2000 watt this time - all I really need) that is UL listed, so I should be done with this problem.Risk you run when you rate watts per dollar urchase as more important than everything else. I get it, solar power ends up being a lot more expensive than a naive impression can conceive of. Once the cost of batteries are finally accepted, the urge to reduce costs elsewhere are very strong. And one metal box looks much like another.
I understand. I am building a solar system into a van conversion RV. I would be very vexed if this system ever failed to work.If I were using the system daily I would have no problem spending double+ for areliabledependable inverter. The Reliable inverter works (or at least tested) as intended, and I hope to never use it. My inverter is only for grid-down, and haven't needed it since Hurricane Ike in 2008 that knocked out power for 10 days. Never lost power with Hurricane Harvey in 2017.
Then again I am writing this as not one but two hurricanes are headed my direction....
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Other than grid-down its only a really fun educational toy. I probably have only $800 total invested in my 4x100W panels, tilt-mount, SCC and 2500W inverter. Batteries came with the 48V golf cart so I consider as no additional cost.
I agree, 24V is heavily used on boats so you have a lot more options. If you are doing a large residential system then 48V makes fantastic sense. 24V is pretty optimal if your inverter is 2000W to 3000W.Also if you are building a 48V or higher system there are not many affordable options. I first had an industrial UPS that was bulletproof except for not liking the higher battery voltage when connected to solar panels.
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Risk you run when you rate watts per dollar as more important than everything else. I get it, solar power ends up being a lot more expensive than a naive impression can conceive of. Once the cost of batteries are finally accepted, the urge to reduce costs elsewhere are very strong. And one metal box looks much like another.
That is good feedback. I lost confidence when I saw reports that you needed to derate these kinds of inverters by 3 to 1 and even 7 to 1 factor in one case when powering inductive loads like a microwave oven.Even with this Live Grounding issue. I'm still very satisfied with the inverter. The inverter has a really great surge capacity, and the output voltage stays betweedn 118v - 122v, even while powering 3000+ watts. I've had it running a 12,000 BTU, 5,000 BTU, Air Conditioners, a refrigerator, dehumidifier, while making coffee or using the microwave, during the day, voltage stayed nice an constant, even during the surges when the AC's are starting.
But I guess time will tell when it comes to the longevity of these "generic" inverters.
And I don't expect it to ever let me down.
If I can get 15 years out of it I will be delighted. Heck if I last 15 years I will be delighted.Oh, it will, sooner or later. Nothing lasts forever.
Also, many folks get by with a 2k inverter for a 900 watt microwave. No direct experience yet, but that’s my plan.