Rapid Shutdown (RSD) on the EG4 18Kpv

[Jarrett_Mccool]

Many thanks to Jarrett for the timely help , Had to swap a couple of wires around on the main board and power is now present

Yeah, we've had a few go out this way.

Luckily, it doesn't damage anything, and it just takes the two pigtail connectors being swapped.

Glad your RSD is working!!

 

[andyfromlc]

Something to consider:

The most likely reason you'd run your batteries down to the point where your inverter were to shutoff, would be due to a grid outage.
If that is the case, the grid isn't going to resolve the "dark start" issue for you, until it returns. Thus, you may still want to consider some "dark start" options that don't involve the grid.

IMO: "dark start" solutions that involve "grid" in the sentence, aren't a solution. chicken and egg scenario.

for dark start, you could add a 12v car battery or other connected to a 120v inverter to supply a 120vac source to the inverter, unless the AC source has to be synch'd to the grid ...that is down???

 

[n2aws]

for dark start, you could add a 12v car battery or other connected to a 120v inverter to supply a 120vac source to the inverter, unless the AC source has to be synch'd to the grid ...that is down???

Many inverters won't start from 120v input, they need 240v. specifically offgrid type inverters. (Though, some do, to be fair).
So this *may* work for some inverters. You'd want to test it, however.

But yes, there are a ton of ways to work around the dark start issue. The specific point I was trying to make is.. "dark start" implies there is no grid available. So any "dark start" plan that involves connecting to the grid in some way, isn't actually a dark start plan.

Not sure if I mentioned it in this thread or not, but.. my panels are connected to DC charge controllers. The "rapid shutdown" transmitter is powered from 12-24v dc. so, in my case.. in my case, I can take the transmitter to one of the follwing 12v sources

Primary option: powered by the 12v output of the inverter. If it's still up and running (not really a dark start)
Backups (actual dark start):
#1) Solar powered gate openers (I have 2, each uses 2 12v batteries)
#2) my portable ham radio setup (solar powered, and AGM batteries)
#3) 3 different vehicles with 12v sources

So in my case, I'd take the RSD transmitter, connect it to any of those sources, and the arrays would all wake up and start charging the batteries. When sufficient charge, inverter can start.

 

[Jdcarrol]

@FilterGuy

If I use the TS4-A-2F, And install them on the modules per requirements, do I need to do anything else besides place the PV wires into the PV inputs within the EG4 18KPV?

 

[FilterGuy]

@FilterGuy

If I use the TS4-A-2F, And install them on the modules per requirements, do I need to do anything else besides place the PV wires into the PV inputs within the EG4 18KPV?

Nope, the 18Kpv has an internal transmitter that takes care of the rest.

Note: in some jurisdictions, the RSD initiator will need to be 'readily accessible' and that is often not where the inverter is. In this case, you can install an external initiator with wires to the inverter.

 

[Punk9721]

@FilterGuy just finding I need RSD receivers per code in my county. I’m on nem 3.0 and already going to be a bit oversized for my overall needs, however I will be charging an EV so more power during that time would be great. But cost and Roi are a major factor and now I’m looking at at ~$700 increase for the tigo dual rsd or ~1350 for the tigo optimizers that’s not including tap and cca. Are the optimizers with the additional cost in your opinion?

 

[Quattrohead]

If you have shading issues go with the optimizers, if you like data go with the monitoring, if you like to save money go with the a2f modules.

 

[FilterGuy]

Are the optimizers with the additional cost in your opinion?

1) The optimizers don't make a large difference unless the panels are at different angles or there are shading issues.

2) I am not a data fiend, so the extra data collection with optimizers is not an advantage to me, but other folks love to have the data.

3) I like to minimize the amount of electronics baking in the sun. The optimizers add complexity over the RSD receivers, which means lower long-term reliability. However, I do not have any data on that and I have not heard of issues with the Tigo Optimizers so I am unable to quantify the issue in any way.

4) I am willing to pay extra for quality, but I am fundamentally a cheap bastard, so I would not spend the money on optimizers unless there is a clear need (shading or angle issues).

 

[fmeili1]

If you have shading issues go with the optimizers, if you like data go with the monitoring, if you like to save money go with the a2f modules.

I can recommend these Tigo TS4-A-2F modules (each can switch 2 PV panels). Just installed 21 of them for 40 large panels (460W bifacial) organized in 8 strings. Because of time constraints, I had them sit more than 14 month in my garage and over the last 4 weeks I've tested them all with the final PV panel layout on each panel - luckily all are working (at least over a couple of days pre-testing).

The wire planning and management is the hell because every Tigo TS4-A-2F will handle 2 PV panels. I was required to build a lot of custom length PV wire extensions to be able to connect everything - it depends on the size of the PV modules and their factory wire length. Good wire planning is a must! In case you would use a TS4-A-F (this model can only switch one PV panel), the wire management would have been a lot easier but with a higher component cost because in this case, you need one TS4-A-F for each PV panel.

One hint:
Because of noise reduction (communication between the Tigo transmitter and each TS4-A-2F module will be done by communication over powerline), Tigo recommend to twist the PV+ and PV- wires over the whole length! This will add a good amount of diameter for each PV wire twisted pair! In case you plan conduit for the PV wires, choose at least the nexct larger conduit diameter to have enough space to pull some of these PV twisted pairs through the conduit. I had to replace some of the already installed conduits later with bigger ones because I've missed this twisted pair hint in the manual at the beginning.