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Revo II tripping breakers when 2 or more are in use

I like to make things really simple.

As we are getting confused with the system here.

There is no L1 and L2.
Just N and L.
Ground? Just there for additional safety, it's not really used to feed any current.

Please remove the 4 left wires going into the Revo II.
Those are not used (for now)

The only thing that we need to be sure if is the power output of the Revo II.

Please remove (from left to right) the ground, Load, Neutral and ground from the next set.

If all is correct, you have 6 wires left.

Going from left to right:
AC Load AC Neutral,
Solar DC + and -
Battery DC + and -

What might me confusing:
neutral is not - it's 0.
Load is 240v

Now when we start with the minimal set of wires, we start to build up from there.

This should work perfectly.
I can not say if your electrical appliances will like it.
It highly dependents if they are suited for outside USA grid.

Not split phase, just good old 240 on one leg, 0 on the other.

You need to be sure.
Absolutely sure.

Your house doesn't need grid.
So, please turn off the main breaker from the house.
As there is no electricity, it's also safe to disconnect the ground.

Again, ground is not used.
It's additional safety if you happen to electrocute yourself.
The special safely breaker measures the leaking current to the ground, and when it's above threshold, it stops all power.

It is totally NOT used for any + or - AC or DC power.

So, just 6 wires.
2 x AC, 4 x DC.
Yes, in theory, the Revo II (not capable or able to be modified for split phase systems) can run without battery.

For reasons mentioned before, going to do parallel setup is not advisable, what if the panels from the master receive less then the slaves, way to less so it needs to stop..
Your slaves no longer have guidance, and might get out of sync.
60hz , one needs to go just a tad faster or slower then the other and you have collision.
There is something that makes the Hz.
It's not naturally there, it's created.

For starters, just one unit, parallel wiring can be there, (the "VGA" and red/black twisted cable) it doesn't interfere.

When you turn it on, it will give 240 volt, 60Hz out of the 2 wires.

When you measure, it doesn't matter what way , it's always 240v
There is no + or - to see.
(If you do, your meter is on DC setting, not AC)

images (43).jpeg

Please see here for more explanation

Before you are going to feed your home with electricity, you should measure the power socket.

I don't know split phase that somehow seems to use ground.
To be sure I would measure all 3 outputs on every possible connection on DC and AC setting.
(Low power setting, probably 20v DC and 200VAC)
All reading should be 0.00

Only then we are sure that there is only coming electricity from the Revo II, and nothing and nowhere else.

This is just to confirm what power the Revo II is providing.

I'm 100% sure it will give 240v.
No + or -, that's only used for DC.

One leg, the neutral, you can hold with your hand.
I will not advise to test this with bare hands, but use your multimeter and measure from the soil to the neutral.
It should give -0.00 reading
(It does on my cheap meter)

Ow it's time to connect your home with the Revo II.

Be advised, all appliances that are not build to be used outside USA system will probably be fried.
Smoke
No longer working.
Do NOT blain me if that happens.
Use the manuals to confirm if they can be used for "Europe system".

One thing that is safe, is a glowing light bulb not led or other technical complicated stuff, just your good old light bulb.

You can use this to confirm functionality.

After this, it's just the question what do you want?

240 volt is not just 240 volt.
There are 2 incomplete systems that provide 240 volt.
One with +120 and - 120 and an other that have 240 and 0
0 is N or neutral.
No negative 120 volts, just 0.

You can use Google to get deep understanding between the 2 systems.
Using 50 and 60 Hz is also not going to work at the same time.
Just as much as the +/-120 to make 240 and plain 240 is not going to work.

Congratulations ?
You just finished your Revo II installation.

When you have installed the battery (your 4* 16 LiFePO4, in parallel so it is seen as one large battery), you can start building them up onto parallel mode. All 4 or 5, depending on your plans.

Now you have 4 or 5 X 5.5kw Revo II ready to take on the loads of your home.

You have confirmed that all your appliances are compatible.

You now flip the switch to make connection to your home.

Mind you, the main breaker of the house is still turned off.
Best to remove the 2 wires out, just to be absolutely sure.
The ground wire is disconnected at its base, This is the location where the grid enters your home.

You are disconnected, cut off from the grid.

Back to the Revo II.
If all settings are OK, you start by connecting the master to your home.
Yes, flipping the breaker that disconnected the Revo II from your home.
Next step is to confirm the settings on the second unit.
It should be slave.
If so, it is OK to connect this with the other by flipping the breaker to contact.

It it thinks it's a master also..
You have magic smoke.

Assuming that after being warned a few times, you do confirm that it's correct, it is indeed a slave, and you now have maximal 2 * 5500 watt loads, provided that your battery and solar arrays are capable.

Next step is to add the third unit, on the same way, and after confirmation, the 4th.

You are a happy puppy.
You have "European style" electricity at your home and all your appliances are still working!!
yeey!!!

Now again the sad news.
Your 240v from the grid (+ 120v and - 120v) is not compatible with the 240v from the Revo II (240v- 0v)

If you would insert the wires back into the main breaker from the house.
(Please fire do turn off the Revo's, as those wires ar HOT, charged, life, power , electrocution danger)

You make connection between 2 incompatible systems.

You are still safe.

The main breaker is off.
The Revo's are off.

If you like to see a whole lot of fireworks....
You turn on the Revo II, all of them.
All your home electric things work.
Now turn on your main breaker that gets electricity from your grid....

Please do use special gloves and suit up, it will give many sparks.

If you are lucky the breaker won't even go on.
If you are not so lucky you make enough sparks for the next 10 Christmas....and blacked out the block.
Plus fried the 4 Revo II.

I know.
It's hard to understand that there can be 2 types of 240 volt.
Just as crazy as driving on the left or right lane is different in many countries...
You can get away with driving on the wrong lane.. quite some time.
It's not to be advised.
Your car works perfect.
So do all the other cars.
And yet....
Driving the " wrong" lane will get you into an accident sooner or later.

This is similar.
You are lucky to got away with mis using the "Europe style" in USA style.
Misusing is accidental.
Abusing is intended.

The Revo II is not intended for USA market.
It can do 240v, 60Hz, and is great to use in off grid situation.

Off grid, not connect to and for sure not feeding grid.
That would be abuse.

If you want to use?
Sure.
Use conversion system.

Like for the car I wrote about.
Left or right driving...
It will adjust the things you do to meet the rules and regulations on the road.
Like a smart Tesla who accept you want to drive on the left lane, bit makes sure you stay on the right lane....

It would put your inside of the car into VR, let you see your version of reality on the windows, and while you are sure you think you are driving on the left lane (your windshield aka monitor shows you) the car lets you navigate on the right lane, showing all obstacles along the way, correcting you when you want to pass, but won't show you.
Miracles...
Or scifi.

Well....
The Revo and your grid aren't that smart.
They just need conversion box.

They don't see eachother.
They do NOT connect directly with eachother.

For them, the other doesn't exist.
Only the conversion box.
And that one is compatible with both systems, doing the translation for them.

I'm still surprised how you didn't end up in a fountain of sparks yet!
And that they are "all" still functional.

What is wrong with the spare unit?
Replacement parts are available.

What was the error message you wrote about, blaming the Revo II for something?
What it if just informed you about the mishap?
Wrong settings / setup?
I have many, many events in the log, no errors.

Obviously, that error message is important!
It probably would confirm what we have been writing since the start.

Two incompatible systems that where as by wonder able to work together without getting damaged quickly.
 
Your installer known his trade...
I wouldn't be able to get it to work without smoke..
And after the smoke clears....
It still won't work.

I remember talking in June about the Revo II.
And how it was going to be used 100% off grid.

Even have massive LPG generator that wouldn't start for some reason.
(I hope you got it running now)

The company who built it wasn't able to provide with charging profile...neither for lead acid or LiFePO4...
Probability just LPG motor with bad ass 48v generator.
No settings/; intelligence, just spit out 48v always or burn the generator :)

That was fun chasing down that information.....
How people can have no idea what they are building and selling.. (or their HQ sales department)
I was amazed.
For the engine of the generator, all top notch, generator it's self also.
Pictures look wonderful.
Type of system a hospital would buy to get backup energy.
Why they don't know that basic jnfo???

Anyways, that's a side step.

To my knowledge it was supposed to be used off grid, no grid for miles and miles around that area.

For grid connection....
DON'T!!

Please.

Use the conversion box to make both systems compatible.

It will not work safely.
It will stress both systems, till one of them stops.
If it's the grid, you are responsible for brownout.
Probably you would damage the Revo II fist.
 
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Turn off all Revo inverters except the master.
Connected to grid, measure voltage on the panel L1 to L2, L1 to Ground (or neutral), L2 to Ground (or neutral)
Then disconnect from grid and take those measurements again.
Then connect a lightbulb between L1 and Ground (or neutral) and take the measurements again.


Gonna have to go to town and buy another light. Cant find the old as havent used it in years. But the initial readings before the bulb test to drain the capacitors is

L1 to l2 248
L1 to ground 122.7
L2 to ground 125.5


Grid turned off and off PV off
L1 to L2 .13
L1 to ground .129
L2 to ground .125

Gonna have to do it over again when i get another light
 
What will be interesting with with PV on but grid disconnected, so the inverter produces power.
(PV off isn't very interesting)

What I'm trying to figure out is if the output circuit has anything grounded, like midpoint of 240VAC to produce 120/240V split phase.
Or, if it just makes a floating 240V
 
What will be interesting with with PV on but grid disconnected, so the inverter produces power.
(PV off isn't very interesting)

What I'm trying to figure out is if the output circuit has anything grounded, like midpoint of 240VAC to produce 120/240V split phase.
Or, if it just makes a floating 240V

Got rain moving in again tomorrow but I'll try again and get enough current going.
 
What will be interesting with with PV on but grid disconnected, so the inverter produces power.
(PV off isn't very interesting)

What I'm trying to figure out is if the output circuit has anything grounded, like midpoint of 240VAC to produce 120/240V split phase.
Or, if it just makes a floating 240V


FINALLY got an email back from the Sorotec guy. This is what he said. Guess I'll be looking to buy a transformer. Have no clue which ones I Need. I guess a 25kw?

Thanks for your information



Please note that the output voltage of our inverter can only be 240V.

They suggest you add a transformer because the transformer can change the output to 120V



Kind regards

Eurus
 
I guess this is what I need?

1) Lots of power dissipated, and lots of reactive power (inductance) the inverter would have to drive.

2) You indicated you have only a few 120V loads. Take an inventory of that, which will show how much transformer you need.
Probably a lot less than 25 kVA. And a lot less than $3000.

Depending on wattage, I saw some suitable toroids (more efficient) on eBay for $250 to $600.
 
1) Lots of power dissipated, and lots of reactive power (inductance) the inverter would have to drive.

2) You indicated you have only a few 120V loads. Take an inventory of that, which will show how much transformer you need.
Probably a lot less than 25 kVA. And a lot less than $3000.

Depending on wattage, I saw some suitable toroids (more efficient) on eBay for $250 to $600.
Or keep 2 of the existing units for 240v. and buy a couple of 3kw growatts for the 120v. They can have half the PV array and connected to the same battery means they are able to charge/discharge the same pack if they have access sun. Just use the existing units to sell back to the grid and drive the 240v loads.

Dont have to fuss with transformer
 
1) Lots of power dissipated, and lots of reactive power (inductance) the inverter would have to drive.

2) You indicated you have only a few 120V loads. Take an inventory of that, which will show how much transformer you need.
Probably a lot less than 25 kVA. And a lot less than $3000.

Depending on wattage, I saw some suitable toroids (more efficient) on eBay for $250 to $600.

What I'm running now is not what I will be running in the future. I'm not even running my heat/air unit on the house or in the shop. Both are 4.5 ton units. I also have welders, plasma cutters. air compressors etc. When I had those 3 Revo II units running I started flipping breakers on and using some stuff and I saw current go up over 15,000 watts I decided not to turn on the last few things on. That is why I'm running 4 of the 5.5kw units.

I don't know what I can get away with. I might look into buying a used one as I'm sure they are much cheaper but take a chance on getting a bad unit as well.
 
Or keep 2 of the existing units for 240v. and buy a couple of 3kw growatts for the 120v. They can have half the PV array and connected to the same battery means they are able to charge/discharge the same pack if they have access sun. Just use the existing units to sell back to the grid and drive the 240v loads.

Dont have to fuss with transformer

I'm not sure how I would wire this up as I have these units all going to a subpanel. I'm not sure how or why when I use a multimeter I'm getting 124volts off of each leg coming out of the inverter.
As I have said before when I turn on just 1 inverter going into the subpanel it works fine I'm running appliances in the house like the fridge and a couple of freezers, microwave and some lights.
checking the subpanel it all reads just fine on the multimeter
 
A/C welders, air compressors - most larger equipment is 230V so doesn't need the transformer. If 115V they will.

With an auto-transformer, two 120V windings in series (or a 120V to 120V isolation transformer, which can be wired in series), it only has to be half the load you plan to drive. A 3000 VA transformer with two, 120V windings in series can take in 6000VA at 240VAC and put out 6000VA at 120VAC. That's an imbalance of 6000VA between the 120V leg which is loaded, and the 120V leg with no load.

Most eBay sellers are good at taking back something that was faulty, even if the sale was "no returns".

Outback sells a transformer for this purpose. I got a 9000VA toroid on eBay that had come from a UPS. Small ones are sold for travelers. Many choices available, just need to determine what capacity you require.

Whether using a transformer to generate 120/240V split-phase or a different inverter, just send it to a new sub panel. That avoids the problem of having an imbalanced load on the other panel.
 
I'm not sure how I would wire this up as I have these units all going to a subpanel. I'm not sure how or why when I use a multimeter I'm getting 124volts off of each leg coming out of the inverter.
As I have said before when I turn on just 1 inverter going into the subpanel it works fine I'm running appliances in the house like the fridge and a couple of freezers, microwave and some lights.
checking the subpanel it all reads just fine on the multimeter
Is this while connected to grid? Or after turning off the breakers which feed your inverters from the grid, and having the inverters produce power from PV and/or battery?
 
Is this while connected to grid? Or after turning off the breakers which feed your inverters from the grid, and having the inverters produce power from PV and/or battery?
I've tested with the grid power but not with the PV array. Its been rainy and cloudy the last several days so maybe I'll have enough sun tomorrow to test it.
But I have tested it before with the PV array going and the grid power hooked up but it wasn't using any power from the grid and 100% solar and it tested 124 on both legs but I didn't turn breaker off from the grid. Don't know if that makes a difference or not.

I can understand it all with both legs testing 240volt on each leg but I'm not getting that I'm getting 124v
 
it tested 124 on both legs but I didn't turn breaker off from the grid. Don't know if that makes a difference or not.

I can understand it all with both legs testing 240volt on each leg but I'm not getting that I'm getting 124v
As previously said, the grid pulls the N side "down" so it "looks" like 120v split phase. However as soon as you shut down the grid it will no longer have a 120v leg.

How would you wire up a 120v panel? Just create a sub panel and run the 120v loads off it. I created a "critical loads" panel which is 120v only that my dual growatts power.
 
The rep told me that I would have to have a min of a 25kw transformer.
I just emailed him back asking is their some way I can convert it over to US specs or ship it back to them and have them do it.
 
The rep told me that I would have to have a min of a 25kw transformer.
I just emailed him back asking is their some way I can convert it over to US specs or ship it back to them and have them do it.
I dont see how they would do it. a true split phase unit has 3 (or 4 if you count ground) output connectors on it.
Here is the output from a "true" split phase 12kw growatt
20200625_1112091-scaled.jpg


In order to do the same the units would have to have hardware physically added to the units. The internal PCB's are likely not configured for this. To turn a singe phase unit into a dual phase unit is NOT just a software hack.
 
I dont see how they would do it. a true split phase unit has 3 (or 4 if you count ground) output connectors on it.
Here is the output from a "true" split phase 12kw growatt
20200625_1112091-scaled.jpg


In order to do the same the units would have to have hardware physically added to the units. The internal PCB's are likely not configured for this. To turn a singe phase unit into a dual phase unit is NOT just a software hack.

Mine also has 6 like yours does 8 in total counting the pv input. Ya I wasnt referring to a hack but a new inverter or a modified one that I could do or them.
 
I'm wondering whether the 240V single phase unit (which we think OP has) uses a 2 pole relay to isolate both hots from the grid ... or just a 1-pole for "L" and assumes "N" is grounded. That's going to make a big difference in use as a grid-backup system.
 
Mine also has 6 like yours does 8 in total counting the pv input.
This response seems to indicate your still not picking up Hedges and I have been trying to put down since the first of this post. A single phase output inverter does not equal a dual phase output inverter.

20201119_164638-jpg.28029
is never going to be dual split phase
 
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