Simple wiring diagram for work/camper van

[klempak]

Can you please check my wiring diagram? I am using this van mostly for work however during summer I do occasional fishing trip.

My usage is modest. I have tried Ecoflow Delta (1kwh) this summer and with my 355W solar panel never dropped below 65% and by 11am I was back to 100%, therefore I am expecting that 200ah or 280ah will be more than enough to keep me going even if I go for longer trips.

My main goal is to remove battery every time I get back home from my trip so I can use van for work. I would probably use Anderson connector to easily connect the battery. All Victron stuff will be kept in the van permanently. I do not expect to use inverter (at least for now) and I do not feel I need to install Orion DC to DC charger as my solar panel should keep my battery charged. However I would like to use battery charger in case of emergency.

Thank you for your help.

 

[ianganderton]

Where are you based?

A 200-280Ah battery should be at least a couple of days cover on the loads you’ve currently got listed

I used the victron Lynx power In converted to a non smart distributor (explorist life has a good video). It will save you some bucks

If you are going to move your battery around a lot I’d suggest it’s in a good case. My 200Ah battery isn’t lead acid heavy but it’s also not lightweight at 20kg

Make sure you have a good reliable & solid way of strapping it down. Movement puts a lot of stress on the terminals.

I created this spreadsheet to help me calculate loads etc. you might find it useful for helping with fusing and wire sizing

Van CALCS

Power Audit Van Conversion -- Electrical loads Estimate Calculations based on 24 hr period. 1 - Electrical Loads: Inverter Item,Usage,Time (min),Wattage,Energy (W),Peak Amps,% of use,Ah,Notes Laptop,240V,1,275,45,206,4,15%,17 Toaster,240V,8,1000,0,83,0%,0,12 minutes is about 6 slices of toast so...

docs.google.com

This is my system, pretty similar in size to yours

 

[klempak]

I am in US. I actually purchased Victron Power In but did not want to create confusion for others in my wiring diagram. Good point about battery case, I am thinking about getting SOK 200ah battery in metal case and strap it down with Snaplocs cart strap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K9VIY0C?tag=kitco079-20&geniuslink=true

Thank you!

​

 

[ianganderton]

I went with a prebuilt 200Ah battery. They have got cheap enough now that it doesn’t make much sense of the time & risk cost of a diy build.

My Build Questions - Camper Van 480W Solar 12V 200Ah LifePo4

All loads off the charge controller? You need your feed directly off the battery or lynx, The max load will be within the 40A its rated for and I'm trying to keep cables as short as possible while oversizing them where possible too. By having them of the load terminals my understanding is it...

diysolarforum.com

 

[John Frum]

Can you please check my wiring diagram? I am using this van mostly for work however during summer I do occasional fishing trip.

My usage is modest. I have tried Ecoflow Delta (1kwh) this summer and with my 355W solar panel never dropped below 65% and by 11am I was back to 100%, therefore I am expecting that 200ah or 280ah will be more than enough to keep me going even if I go for longer trips.

My main goal is to remove battery every time I get back home from my trip so I can use van for work. I would probably use Anderson connector to easily connect the battery. All Victron stuff will be kept in the van permanently. I do not expect to use inverter (at least for now) and I do not feel I need to install Orion DC to DC charger as my solar panel should keep my battery charged. However I would like to use battery charger in case of emergency.

Thank you for your help.

No inverter?

The largest load is less than 100 amps to the dc fuse block.
Suggest you put a victron battery protect on the dc distribution circuit.
That will give low voltage and administrative disconnect.

You won't need a disconnect for the battery circuit because ever other circuit will have a means of disconnect.
4/0 is extreme overkill for the battery circuit
4 awg with a 150 amp mrbf fuse will be plenty

Very stange to have 8 awg out to the panel.
The panel wires are probably 10 awg

If you do a diy battery with a smart bms you don't need a shunt.

 

[John Frum]

I am in US. I actually purchased Victron Power In but did not want to create confusion for others in my wiring diagram.

Explorist life has some good video about how to add fuses to the lynx power-in.

 

[John Frum]

I just looked up the panel and 10 awg will be fine all the way from the panel to the solar charge controller.

https://www.nanosun.cz/datasheets/LG355N1C-V5.pdf

 

[klempak]

I just looked up the panel and 10 awg will be fine all the way from the panel to the solar charge controller.

https://www.nanosun.cz/datasheets/LG355N1C-V5.pdf

Great thank you!

 

[klempak]

Explorist life has some good video about how to add fuses to the lynx power-in.

Yes I saw both videos, and already got hardware for turning power-in into fuse holder, thank you!

 

[kbeefy]

My first van build had very similar loads and did great on 100ah for Spring/Summer/Fall. The only time I felt I needed more was when it was below freezing and I was running my heater, the solar input was low as was my battery capacity. More insulation would have gone a long ways also.

Like @ianganderton, I crunched the numbers and a cheap 200ah prebuilt battery made more sense than DIY. I got a 200ah Ampretime for $585.
Just Eve 280ah cells were going to cost almost that much. I sacrificed some capacity and will deal with the lack of no low temp charge cutoff.

You designed a simple system and I think it will work great. Easy enough to add a DC-DC charger in the future if you feel the need.

 

[klempak]

My first van build had very similar loads and did great on 100ah for Spring/Summer/Fall. The only time I felt I needed more was when it was below freezing and I was running my heater, the solar input was low as was my battery capacity. More insulation would have gone a long ways also.

Like @ianganderton, I crunched the numbers and a cheap 200ah prebuilt battery made more sense than DIY. I got a 200ah Ampretime for $585.
Just Eve 280ah cells were going to cost almost that much. I sacrificed some capacity and will deal with the lack of no low temp charge cutoff.

You designed a simple system and I think it will work great. Easy enough to add a DC-DC charger in the future if you feel the need.

Thank you for your feedback! My goal is to have simple system however with easy upgrades thats why I am gong with lynx distributor (converted lynx power-in) . I am leaning towards prebuild battery as well. The main reason why I was considering the DIY battery was the form factor, it would be more less the same size as SOK 200ah.
I am hoping if someone can double check my wire sizes and fuse sizes, as I am not 100% sure. Also would there be any benefit to add another blue sea 6006 switch between the Smart charger and Lynx distributor?

 

[kbeefy]

I dont think an additional switch would be necessary, the charger would only be active while plugged into shore power. Easy enough to unplug the charger if necesary.

 

[tvpierce]

I created this spreadsheet to help me calculate loads etc. you might find it useful for helping with fusing and wire sizing

Van CALCS

Power Audit Van Conversion -- Electrical loads Estimate Calculations based on 24 hr period. 1 - Electrical Loads: Inverter Item,Usage,Time (min),Wattage,Energy (W),Peak Amps,% of use,Ah,Notes Laptop,240V,1,275,45,206,4,15%,17 Toaster,240V,8,1000,0,83,0%,0,12 minutes is about 6 slices of toast so...

docs.google.com

Great spreadsheet! I'll be using it to calculate my system usage.

Thanks for sharing it.