Good luck with that. 4 weeks and still waiting on the one I ordered from Amazon.
Sixtysix 280ah Cells from Deligreen
- Thread starter ArthurEld
- Start date
Good luck with that. 4 weeks and still waiting on the one I ordered from Amazon.
is their a problem with made in china sticker?
ArthurEld
Solar Wizard
Lol, the biggest problem is that nobody else had them on theirs. And mine were right in the middle on top.
I peeled them off
Before
I have 16 configured as four 12 volt battery's going to common busbar powering a 3,000watt low frequency inverter, runs my AC like a champ. You will love them
ArthurEld
Solar Wizard
I did the discharge test and the results were ok but I have a couple cells in this group that are pretty bad.
The BMS capacity shows 262Ah but the capacity tester shows 271Ah. All I know for sure is none are very accurate.
I'm going to swap the position of the two worst cells with the two best cells and give them one more chance.
If I get the same results I'll swap out the worst ones.
I ordered an MPP Solar 3048LV-MK+wifi module all in one. I'm tired of playing with capacity testers and power supplies.
I had ordered a 3000W inverter and I was going to order an auto switchbox but the cost is getting up there.
And this all in one has a better reputation as far a I can tell.
The BMS capacity shows 262Ah but the capacity tester shows 271Ah. All I know for sure is none are very accurate.
I'm going to swap the position of the two worst cells with the two best cells and give them one more chance.
If I get the same results I'll swap out the worst ones.
I ordered an MPP Solar 3048LV-MK+wifi module all in one. I'm tired of playing with capacity testers and power supplies.
I had ordered a 3000W inverter and I was going to order an auto switchbox but the cost is getting up there.
And this all in one has a better reputation as far a I can tell.
Did you use a electrical grease between the terminal and buss bar ? Oxidation will happen depending on time and amp draw.
Aluminum and copper have different expansion rates to temperature. Use " scotch bright to polish " any oxidation on the aluminum terminal to
remove the oxidation from the time from manufacture . Oxidation = Resistance It's there even if you can't see it.
JimJr
Aluminum and copper have different expansion rates to temperature. Use " scotch bright to polish " any oxidation on the aluminum terminal to
remove the oxidation from the time from manufacture . Oxidation = Resistance It's there even if you can't see it.
JimJr
ArthurEld
Solar Wizard
It's a temporary setup but I did clean and scuff up the terminals and my busbars are tinned.
I'll use some dielectric anticorrosive grease when I put it together for use.
I'll use some dielectric anticorrosive grease when I put it together for use.
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
Dielectric grease is not NoAlox or OxGuard.
only a very tiny bit needs to be on the cell contact face, never on the threads (it will skew the torque & stripping threads is HI-RISK! NO Gobs.
With Tinned or nickel-plated busbars it's not needed, they will not corrode. IF you are Marine (SEA) then all should be done to Marine Spec. which entails all the electrical components as Sea Water & Humidity is killer.
only a very tiny bit needs to be on the cell contact face, never on the threads (it will skew the torque & stripping threads is HI-RISK! NO Gobs.
With Tinned or nickel-plated busbars it's not needed, they will not corrode. IF you are Marine (SEA) then all should be done to Marine Spec. which entails all the electrical components as Sea Water & Humidity is killer.
Granted the tin or nickle plated will help with corrosion , but the add resistance . Nickle is 22% continuity and tin is 15%.
Can you please post a source? My busbars are tin plated and while I was parallel top balancing, to make sure I had good connections, I checked to see if there was any voltage between the cell terminals and the busbars. There wasn't any.
Electrical Conductivity of Materials - Blue Sea Systems
Electrical Conductivity of Materials - Blue Sea Systems
Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance
www.bluesea.com
JimJr
Volt differences will show up under a load
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
Hence why systemic calibration is a necessity yet most don't want to pay attention to it. Every connection, link, even the wire itself all affect the volt readings and with Lithium Based batteries it's not to be ignored. The differential in voltage reading from battery terminal to SCC & Inverter/Charger terminals all have to be "normalized".
Thanks. All I know is there was no resistance between the busbars and the cell terminals, and the cell terminals are made of aluminum. My cells are now in series and I will take a closer look at it when I have the time. I don't think using tin plated busbars is effecting the capacity testing of the cells. Some people have tested single cells after having them is series because if a weak cell. And the weak cell still comes up up shy of 280ah's. I could understand this being a problem if using tin busbars...but these are tin plated.Electrical Conductivity of Materials - Blue Sea Systems
Electrical Conductivity of Materials - Blue Sea Systems
Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance
JimJr
Volt differences will show up under a load
ArthurEld
Solar Wizard
These two cells have tested lower capacity than the rest twice. I'm giving them one more chance but most likely the two worst will go with the batch of lowest capacity. I have two spares which will be the absolute worst ones.
For my other batteries I will pull out the ones the BMS identifies as bad and capacity test those to verify.
For my other batteries I will pull out the ones the BMS identifies as bad and capacity test those to verify.
ArthurEld
Solar Wizard
I changed my mind about retesting the two weak cells. I switched them out.
I arranged my cells a little different. Now I can work on 2 batteries at the same time.
I arranged my cells a little different. Now I can work on 2 batteries at the same time.
yes, I am working toward the redundant system. I had a power outage 1x for 3 days and used a kerosene heater to keep from freezing. the kerosene heater backfired in the middle of the night when we were all under blankets trying to stay somewhat warm. it blacked everything in the house with soot and essentially all of the clothes were ruined even by going to the dry clearers with the specialty cleanup crew. $10000 dollars damage. had insurance but I prefer to not be without power and learn from my dumb mistakes of 30 years past.
I can recommend a big buddy propane heater as a backup (be sure and buy the hose to adapt it to a tank instead of the 1 lb bottles). Works as well as kerosene, doesn't smell, and propane stores pretty much forever. Since I also have a dual fuel champion generator, I keep a couple of the 30 lb bottles filled (20 lb is the normal grill size, you can get 40 lb and larger as well, but there are laws about transporting them to be filled, and 30 lb is much more manageable). Just thought I'd throw that out there, since I've used a kerosene heater as backup as well, but the smell was just too much for me.
Generator I use.
Propane heater I use
Adapter hose for propane heater
heavy-impact
New Member
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The Buddy heaters are very good quality and easy to use but the ones that mount directly on top the propane cylinder are much cheaper and compact. Better still is a propane kitchen stove since you can still cook, heat water for bathing and heat the house. My two front stovetop burners are 17,000 and 18,000 btu. I'd rather eat a green fly than use a kerosene space heater. Those things stink like hell and are extremely dangerous.
ArthurEld
Solar Wizard
I'm in Florida but it has been cold the last few days.
I used cheap heaters that screwed on to the top of propane tanks in my garage in NY. It worked pretty good.
I have reliable grid, a generator and four 48V 280Ah batteries. I'm probably ok
I used cheap heaters that screwed on to the top of propane tanks in my garage in NY. It worked pretty good.
I have reliable grid, a generator and four 48V 280Ah batteries. I'm probably ok
michael d
off-grid solar pilgrim
I guarantee you I will never use a kerosene heater inside the living quarter ever again. once was enough. the only time I ever used kerosene since that disaster was in a garage while we worked inside to insulate, electrify and sheetrock it. but as others have said the kerosene heaters are quite smelly and dangerous. never use kerosene heaters unattended and best not to use at all. I have since used propane space heaters if needed. I do believe that solar electricity with storage batteries is going to be the only way to go. my intent is to get off all the propane and go with all solar-generated electricity. I have 64 280ah batteries in route right now to add to the battery bank. propane hot water heater. Never use kerosene heaters in your house--- bad bad bad. I continue setting up the solar power shed for the big uninterruptible power supply. All in the building (solar power shed) next to the house for safety reasons. it is routinely getting down to 20 degrees every night now and the solar power shed is maintaining 68 degrees with one 150 watt heat lamp bulb. it will be less when I am finished and I will put the supplemental heat on a thermostatically controlled circuit with a snap disc on at 40 off at 60 degrees for winter use. I have a blue flame propane heater for backup in the house. still pushing for total off-grid with the solar electric though. I consider the propane as a grid source as you have to keep buying it from the corporate government-supported fossil fuel suppliers.
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
Gee wiz people.
Buddy heaters are meant for camps, and various uses and do work well but NOT INDOORS with a closed up building !
Carbon Monoxide FOLKS ! They are not direct vent, as they run & burn the LPG, they emit the usual humidity that results from LPG Burning but also CO2 which you cannot smell or see but will kill you if it get's too high.
Kerosene IS nasty stinky but at least, it forces you to open a window or two to keep fresh air coming in.
BTW: LPG appliances can be converted to use BIOGAS quite easily as their jetting is almost perfect (unlike Natural Gas which is high pressure).
BioGas Generators can easily be DIY'ed or even inexpensive retail units can be purchased.
BiopGas can work in just about every climate, they even have some running 7/24/365 in the Northwest Territories ! so Cold is NOT an excuse.
Buddy heaters are meant for camps, and various uses and do work well but NOT INDOORS with a closed up building !
Carbon Monoxide FOLKS ! They are not direct vent, as they run & burn the LPG, they emit the usual humidity that results from LPG Burning but also CO2 which you cannot smell or see but will kill you if it get's too high.
Kerosene IS nasty stinky but at least, it forces you to open a window or two to keep fresh air coming in.
BTW: LPG appliances can be converted to use BIOGAS quite easily as their jetting is almost perfect (unlike Natural Gas which is high pressure).
BioGas Generators can easily be DIY'ed or even inexpensive retail units can be purchased.
BiopGas can work in just about every climate, they even have some running 7/24/365 in the Northwest Territories ! so Cold is NOT an excuse.
