diy solar

diy solar

Sixtysix 280ah Cells from Deligreen

I reread Steve's post and he's talking about working with separate cells.
That only makes sense to me for matching.

And I am losing interest in matching.

But I think it makes sense to discharge all cells completely before top balancing.
I am still working out how to charge and discharge using .2C to .5C.
 
ArthurEld said:
What do you think causes the resting voltage effect? I didn't say is because I am guessing.
Click to expand...

Take a look at the discharge curve.

They live in the flat part between the knees.

That’s my guess. The lack of memory effect is a fact.
 
JoeHam said:
Take a look at the discharge curve.

They live in the flat part between the knees.

That’s my guess. The lack of memory effect is a fact.
Click to expand...

Now that I have the facts I can move on.

My charge limits will be on the straight line between the knees.

Time to play with my new toy that I mounted on the wall above my workbench.

1607281030031.png
 
I was thinking about making up cables as well. I think this is a very good idea. I am working on the wood and threaded rods to tighten it all together as I slowly progress along. 32 280Ah batteries are a physical challenge to move about and support at 380 plus pound pack weight! I am working with 16 at a time but still 190 plus pounds. reinforcing the shelf also.
 
I got tired of rearranging cells and I have 4 batteries so the cables will be used a few times.

Charging/discharging serial works better but when I top or bottom balance I need to switch to parallel to get the knees

I just got some selves to hold my batteries. They claim to hold more weight than my batteries.
But it hurts me to imagine the top shelf giving way and sending all 4 of my batteries crashing to the ground.
 
michael d said:
yes, I bought 6 3/8 inch x 36-inch threaded rods and washers nuts to make compression ends to keep the cells together when charging and discharging them. today I will work on the plywood and threaded rods to make up the compression jig. I am thinking about adding some old angle iron from bed frames outside the ends of the plywood for a little more reinforcement. standard procedure -- make it stronger than you need. thanks for the info -- I will be working on it daily if the wife does not tie me into other honey doo's.
Click to expand...
If something goes wrong there is tremendous expansion force . I now doubt that it can be stopped economically . I would put some steel on and try to get something holding the centers. There are 5 stainless 3/8ths rods holding that and it just buckled out . All the force went on the edges .Its 5/8ths nylon cutting board. Suprisingly the cells still work fine.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20201202_103730.jpg
    IMG_20201202_103730.jpg
    69.8 KB · Views: 59
Last edited:
Bob Steel said:
I'm wondering where this chart was obtained . Its pretty right I think top and bottom but not so sure about the green bit.It emphasises however that 20 to 80% state of charge is 0.100 volts. 100 millivolts on a single cell. Hard to pick with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
that chart was sent to me from the vendor from China who sold me the 2nd batch of 32 Lishen 272Ah 3.2v cells. the Electrodacus balances to 3 decimal places and my 1st 2P8S 24-volt bank has a resting delta between cells of 8-10mv.
today it is snowing so no real production in the snow I think I am getting about 10 watts when I sweep the snow off the 2 250 watt panels but was getting 440 watts when the sun was shining 2 days ago. this vender said you should up an insulating sheet between the cells so I am looking at .030" plexiglass to fit that part.
I bought a more accurate multimeter but it only does 2 decimal places. the second photo shows a 36mv delta while charging on the 26th of december.
 

Attachments

  • 20201228_104256.jpg
    20201228_104256.jpg
    93.4 KB · Views: 4
  • 20201226_131318.jpg
    20201226_131318.jpg
    89.7 KB · Views: 4
Last edited:
Steve_S said:
Gee wiz people.

Buddy heaters are meant for camps, and various uses and do work well but NOT INDOORS with a closed up building !
Carbon Monoxide FOLKS ! They are not direct vent, as they run & burn the LPG, they emit the usual humidity that results from LPG Burning but also CO2 which you cannot smell or see but will kill you if it get's too high.

Kerosene IS nasty stinky but at least, it forces you to open a window or two to keep fresh air coming in.

BTW: LPG appliances can be converted to use BIOGAS quite easily as their jetting is almost perfect (unlike Natural Gas which is high pressure).
BioGas Generators can easily be DIY'ed or even inexpensive retail units can be purchased.
BiopGas can work in just about every climate, they even have some running 7/24/365 in the Northwest Territories ! so Cold is NOT an excuse.
Click to expand...
Sorry, but I guess I should get rid of my gas range and dryer (hot water heater and normal furnace too?) The gas dryer probably vents outside, don't really know, I do know the hot water heater and furnace do. That said, I watched my grandmother and grandfather use a an unvented natural gas floor heater for at least 30 years for their two story house. You didn't want to stand on the metal grate when it was cranked, but it really didn't need to be cranked. Like everything in life (and invented by man), some common sense is needed. I have used my big buddy heater indoors when it was -20 outside, and it never set off the carbon monoxide detector. We should probably ask them to remove this phrase from their website? "With the Oxygen Depletion Sensor (ODS) and accidental tip-over safety shut-off, you can be sure that you will enjoy years of comfortable indoor safe heat."

Not to be a pain, but if it is -20 outside, and your power dies, don't hesitate to fire it up. Certainly beats burst pipes.
 
Bob Steel said:
If something goes wrong there is tremendous expansion force . I now doubt that it can be stopped economically . I would put some steel on and try to get something holding the centers. There are 5 stainless 3/8ths rods holding that and it just buckled out . All the force went on the edges .Its 5/8ths nylon cutting board. Suprisingly the cells still work fine.
Click to expand...
that is quite a bulge on the whiteboard. right now I am using 2 rods on each of the outsides and 2 rods down the middle so 2, 2, and 2 for a total of 6 3/8 steel rods. I am looking for a plastic pipe to put over the threaded rods to take away the abrasive threads from the blue vinyl/shrink-wrapped Lishen cells. thanks for sharing that picture. my 16 cells are wired 2p8S in a block style. 8 on each side so the flow goes down one side and back up the other side. it is a 24-volt configuration. I put red tape on the positive end and a Dymo label on top of the red tape to prevent connection mistakes.
The main positive and main negative end up on the same end of the battery bank. 272Ah x 3.2V x16cells= 13,926.4Wh capacity.
 
Bob Steel said:
If something goes wrong there is tremendous expansion force . I now doubt that it can be stopped economically . I would put some steel on and try to get something holding the centers. There are 5 stainless 3/8ths rods holding that and it just buckled out . All the force went on the edges .Its 5/8ths nylon cutting board. Suprisingly the cells still work fine.
Click to expand...
wow...eye opener
 
michael d said:
right now I am using 2 rods on each of the outsides and 2 rods down the middle so 2, 2, and 2 for a total of 6 3/8 steel rods. I am looking for a plastic pipe to put over the threaded rods to take away the abrasive threads from the blue vinyl/shrink-wrapped Lishen cells.
Click to expand...
www.homedepot.com

UDP 3/8 in. I.D. x 1/2 in. O.D. x 20 ft. Clear Vinyl Tubing T10007008 - The Home Depot

Everbilt clear vinyl tubing is BPA-free and manufactured using FDA approved food grade compliant materials. The crystal clear and non-toxic tubing is great for low pressure applications such as beverage
www.homedepot.com
 
Bob Steel said:
If something goes wrong there is tremendous expansion force . I now doubt that it can be stopped economically . I would put some steel on and try to get something holding the centers. There are 5 stainless 3/8ths rods holding that and it just buckled out . All the force went on the edges .Its 5/8ths nylon cutting board. Suprisingly the cells still work fine.
Click to expand...
If you would have kept that from bulging, I imagine at least one vent would have blown.
 
ArthurEld said:
No I have not. I will check into it.
I bought it from MPP Solar and it is the newer version that comes with WIFI.
But I will check to see what I have and what is available. Thanks
Click to expand...
look here coulomb is the expert on those machines myself i have a axpert vm 3 3k 24v no firmware available bummer
powerforum.co.za

How to update firmware on an Axpert

Hello, Could someone point me out to the right software to update firmware on this inverters, there are quite a few good firmware versions out there which seems interesting to test. Thanks for your help,
powerforum.co.za powerforum.co.za
All axpert inverters have the same bug doesn't matter witch type coulomb is patching the firmware manually, for 48v types
what you have is a axpert.

Voltronic Power Product List

voltronicpower.com voltronicpower.com
unpached OEM firmware can be found here
watchout what you flash NO warranty any more
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

shadowmaker
I can't read this lifepo QR code. Can you?
Replies
6
Views
401
gotbeans
gotbeans
L
Higee 280AH cells made in April 2023 - compression/fixturing or not?
Replies
4
Views
196
Luk88
L
S
deligreen bms increases voltage
Replies
3
Views
230
st2121
S
jasonhc73
46165 Sodium Cells
Replies
0
Views
259
jasonhc73
jasonhc73
B
Battero Tech BT280 3.2V 280Ah LiFePO4 Cells - US$55.00 _ GobelPower.com
Replies
7
Views
643
Paul_in _Berkeley
P
Back
Top