diy solar

diy solar

Soft starter well pump coming soon

Deveak

New Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2021
Messages
89
Just want to preface with I’m not being paid, influenced or affiliated with the company.

I was looking for soft starters last week and found a few videos on a new company that makes plug in soft starters. A lot of RVers are talking about it or promoting it more likely. Either way I called them and got ahold of the engineer that designs them. He said in the next few weeks they will be launching soft starts for well pumps, power tools and refrigerators.

In the case of well pumps both 115 and even 230 two wire pumps which really helps me. Just pulled a 1 hp 2 wire pump I can no longer start because my generator broke. Fairly cheap, they run about 300-340.

Absolutely opens up a ton of cheap options. Instead of spending 1200+ on a Grundfos I can buy a cheap vevor pump and one of those for about 500 and I can swap in cheap pumps in the future. I really like separate pieces of equipment, cheaper in the long run when it comes time to replace. Active controls is the company.

Not sure how they do it, the plug in version supposedly is fine with electronics but I wouldn’t risk it. Saw a video of them testing it on a whole RV and all the appliances including the microwave ran fine.

Do your research and YMMV but I’m mildly excited. Partially cures the age old problem of over sizing the inverter and losing efficiency when you do.
 
No names? No links?

Tease!

I've been pondering how to get soft start involved in my well pump for a while now, not finding anything that really works with a 240v 3-wire that costs less than a Groundfoss that I can't afford and the 300ft of pipe for it.
 
I think a decent soft-start function for induction motor needs 3-wire. Have to apply good phase shift to starting winding, can even operate as VFD.

2-wire I think would work only for brush-type universal motor. That's just a speed control like the trigger on some tools.
 
No names? No links?

Tease!

I've been pondering how to get soft start involved in my well pump for a while now, not finding anything that really works with a 240v 3-wire that costs less than a Groundfoss that I can't afford and the 300ft of pipe for it.
Thought I did mention it but it’s Active Controls soft starts.
 
I think a decent soft-start function for induction motor needs 3-wire. Have to apply good phase shift to starting winding, can even operate as VFD.

2-wire I think would work only for brush-type universal motor. That's just a speed control like the trigger on some tools.
I specifically asked about 2 wire pumps and was told it would work. Don’t know much about soft starts to tell. I might end up getting a 3 wire pump anyways. I only have two wires that go to the bottom of the hill so I will need to build a system down there to power it but it seems like three wire pumps have less starting current. I prefer to have less equipment down hole.

Maybe with a three wire and a soft start I can go big. Like 1.5 hp.
 
Not finding anything for a 3-wire deep well pump soft starter anywhere. :cry:

Not sure if it’s the 115 or 230, no specs listed but it looks like it’s out now.

Probably the 115, he said the 230 comes out later.
 
The Microair page says A/C and pumps.

I think these are 3-wire connection, going to the start/run capacitor as well.

I've heard that slow ramp up of a deep well pump can be damaging because it runs on water bearings. Caveat DIYer.
 
The Microair page says A/C and pumps.

I think these are 3-wire connection, going to the start/run capacitor as well.

I've heard that slow ramp up of a deep well pump can be damaging because it runs on water bearings. Caveat DIYer.
How does the grundfos differ than? It doesn’t seem to suffer from its soft start?

If the bearings are different it would help when looking for other pumps with similar designs.
 
Grundfos is a 3-phase motor and VFD. Some are PV direct.

A thread on the forum mentioned short lifespan of some Grundfos, and somebody (vendor?) blamed it on grit. But another guy mentioned slow starting with water bearings.

I'd rather start the pump less often and fill a tank. But variable speed to match consumer usage is a feature to make plumbing and pump system simpler.

So I don't know if it suffers from premature bearing wear due to this or not. Products could be engineered for the application, or marketed for it. I don't have a well pump, so I'm just acting as a sponge for information I think I comprehend.
 
Grundfos is a 3-phase motor and VFD. Some are PV direct.

A thread on the forum mentioned short lifespan of some Grundfos, and somebody (vendor?) blamed it on grit. But another guy mentioned slow starting with water bearings.

I'd rather start the pump less often and fill a tank. But variable speed to match consumer usage is a feature to make plumbing and pump system simpler.

So I don't know if it suffers from premature bearing wear due to this or not. Products could be engineered for the application, or marketed for it. I don't have a well pump, so I'm just acting as a sponge for information I think I comprehend.
In my application than I don’t think it would be a huge issue. I fill a tank. So it’s going to be one start a day or every other day.
 
Single phase induction motor water pumps have a high initial startup mechanical load. They do not benefit as much with a Microair type softstarter/capacitor boost.

Water pumps already have the boost starter capacitor, typically with a centrifugal switch to disengage them after motor spins up.

The only benefit is the soft start voltage ramp up, which can only be limited amount because the motor must carry the initial mechanical load.

Most water pumps do not have run capacitors. A proper sized run capacitor will increase run torque and improve power factor during run period, lowering run current on motor.
 
Single phase induction motor water pumps have a high initial startup mechanical load. They do not benefit as much with a Microair type softstarter/capacitor boost.

Water pumps already have the boost starter capacitor, typically with a centrifugal switch to disengage them after motor spins up.

The only benefit is the soft start voltage ramp up, which can only be limited amount because the motor must carry the initial mechanical load.

Most water pumps do not have run capacitors. A proper sized run capacitor will increase run torque and improve power factor during run period, lowering run current on motor.
What about running without a check valve?
It may take a bit to get water to the surface but I’m not filling a house, just a tank.
 
You are required by code to have a check valve, for many reasons. You don't want to contaminate the well source from the surface in addition to the mechanical needs of the pump to function

Here is one of the top Google hits about this
 
Check valve + vacuum breaker.
that way motor starts up with no head.

Put a filter on the vacuum breaker so it doesn't suck everything down the pipe.
It should also be a design that expels air until water reaches it, not just a check valve letting in atmosphere. Otherwise all that air gets compressed into your system. (not such a big deal with a tank.)

A plumbing setup acting as unloader could do it too, but that would be down the hole.

("Priming" isn't an issue for a submersible pump, only for a suction pump!)
 
Check valve + vacuum breaker.
that way motor starts up with no head.

Put a filter on the vacuum breaker so it doesn't suck everything down the pipe.
It should also be a design that expels air until water reaches it, not just a check valve letting in atmosphere. Otherwise all that air gets compressed into your system. (not such a big deal with a tank.)

A plumbing setup acting as unloader could do it too, but that would be down the hole.

("Priming" isn't an issue for a submersible pump, only for a suction pump!)
In my case it would have a breather, going to a tank with a breather and an external fill line I dump tank water into, so two open outlets for air. I don’t have code enforcement, it’s a fairly low quality well I don’t consider potable. We filter all of our water.

I’d manually fill it with a switch, 20 minutes of run time and off for several days.

If I ran with no check valve would the water backwashing damage the pump? No water means zero head on start. It’s a very high head situation, 250 ft head from the static water line to the house.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top