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Sol-Ark 15K All in One Inverter Released.

It would need airflow. Any blocking of vents would reduce that. Column above/below vents allows convection, which will be smoother and more effective without baffles in the way. I wouldn't think a dongle would matter much.
 
Hedges said:
It would need airflow. Any blocking of vents would reduce that. Column above/below vents allows convection, which will be smoother and more effective without baffles in the way. I wouldn't think a dongle would matter much.
Click to expand...
Hello

Agree about needing airflow.. and top and bottom and far right edge will have plenty, its just the L side where the dongle is, that I have limited space.

I spoke with another expert, and he said the 2 inch gap required L-R from the unit is from the edge of the Metal box, since the dongle extends 1.25 inches, a 2 inch clearance will not interfere with that , and I can install/remove the dongle from that gap. So.. plan is to leave a 3 inch gap beyond the metal case, which exceeds the requirement, but doesn't include the 1.25 inches of the dongle (or more like 4.25 inches,) which is space I really don't have on my basement wall , in the logical area to install the solark, and transfer switch.

One of the youtube installers stated that Solark promises that you don't need the transfer switch, as the "pass through" of the 200A service will continue to work if the solark goes down hard or becomes inoperative.

Not needing the transfer switch would simplify my install, but I keep coming back to a nightmare scenario where the solark is dead, or needs to go somewhere for service, and my main 200A feed for my entire home will need to be disconnected, and re-connected to bypass the solark and feed my mains panel. I found a brand new 200A transfer switch online for $50, and I am going to go ahead and install it, then if/when anything bad happens , wife, or future owner can just flip that switch, and the main panel is back direct connected to the grid.

Thanks for your reply.. and now I just need to find a local electrician to help me install the main fused 200A cut off switch code requires to feed the solark. Wish me luck with that, I call, leave messages, with a clear statement of what kind of help I need, and very few electricians, answer the phone, or call back.. just endless messages.

CPU

I
 
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12kw_2021 said:
Thanks for your reply.. and now I just need to find a local electrician to help me install the main fused 200A cut off switch code requires to feed the solark. Wish me luck with that, I call, leave messages, with a clear statement of what kind of help I need, and very few electricians, answer the phone, or call back.. just endless messages.
Click to expand...

Do you have a way to disconnect power yourself for installation of cut-off switch? Or does that require yanking meter?
In either case, could still be DIY if you're qualified to operate a torque wrench. (I've taken to rotating wire back and forth under terminal while repeatedly torquing screw, until strands settle fully.)
Normally, being without power until utility returns to reconnect would be inconvenient, but if SolArk is able to supply house at that point, not such a big deal.
Transfer switch (or I used smaller interlocked "generator" breaker in main panel) would connect inverter to main panel and house while waiting for their return.

$50 for 200A transfer switch sounds great.
I got a 200A heavy duty disconnect for that price. My only transfer switches are breaker interlocks.
 
The front cover is slightly less than 18 1/4” wide.

The dongle sticks out 1 1/4” from that on the left side.

The latches on right side need about 2 1/4” to open.

So to give a little extra room for my hands, I’m installing mine with 3” on both sides.

No vents on sides, just top and bottom. I think they recommend at least 6” clearance there.
 
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Hedges said:
Do you have a way to disconnect power yourself for installation of cut-off switch? Or does that require yanking meter?
In either case, could still be DIY if you're qualified to operate a torque wrench. (I've taken to rotating wire back and forth under terminal while repeatedly torquing screw, until strands settle fully.)
Normally, being without power until utility returns to reconnect would be inconvenient, but if SolArk is able to supply house at that point, not such a big deal.
Transfer switch (or I used smaller interlocked "generator" breaker in main panel) would connect inverter to main panel and house while waiting for their return.

$50 for 200A transfer switch sounds great.
I got a 200A heavy duty disconnect for that price. My only transfer switches are breaker interlocks.
Click to expand...
Hello

My current home has the meter on outside wall, with the feed to my main panel in basement through cement in plastic PVC pipe. So exterior the only way to disconnect is to pull the meter, and make the electric company cranky.

In the basement there is room for some Polaris lugs that could be attached to the existing 4/0 aluminum wires , problem is they would be live, fed from the meter outside.

I've sent emails to the tech support at the local electric company and they don't give any answers about what would happen if I just disconnected my main panel breaker switch to ensure no power flowing then pulled the meter outside to work on the wiring inside.

One electrician says he's coming over today (no time or planned visit time shared, so I guess I just sit here all day waiting for him to show up whenever the mood strikes him)..... Sheesh..

Guess I shouldn't bash folks who are smart and work with electricity, but it would be nice if they operated with a little more courtesy to paying customers . (Of which they all have an overload presently).

I understand that the solark has passthrough.. just that the 15K is a brand new , complex box.. and if/when it fails I will need to do something to get it replaced/repaired... guess if I went with a replace always strategy I could just let it sit installed, broken and the power passthrough working and house up and running off 100% grid. Then when the new unit arrives the install should leave my home unpowered for only 1 day, using the main power disconnect to remove all downstream power to work on the replacement install. But since the transfer switch is in my house and was so inexpensive.. I am just going to install it, and label clearly so wife or future owners will know what to do to operate house if solark dies completely.

I was completely shocked at the retail big box prices of 200A fused cut off switches (Required for solark per code), and the transfer switch. Folks need to add $900-1200 to the price of the inverter just for those pieces of hardware, not including wire , conduit, and other incidentals.
 
Danke said:
The front cover is slightly less than 18 1/4” wide.

The dongle sticks out 1 1/4” from that on the left side.

The latches on right side need about 2 1/4” to open.

So to give a little extra room for my hands, I’m installing mine with 3” on both sides.

No vents on sides, just top and bottom. I think they recommend at least 6” clearance there.
Click to expand...
Hi, thanks.. I need to edit my earlier post, I misread the dimension and it is only 1.25 inches extended, not 1.77 as I stated.
 
12kw_2021 said:
Hello

My current home has the meter on outside wall, with the feed to my main panel in basement through cement in plastic PVC pipe. So exterior the only way to disconnect is to pull the meter, and make the electric company cranky.

In the basement there is room for some Polaris lugs that could be attached to the existing 4/0 aluminum wires , problem is they would be live, fed from the meter outside.

I've sent emails to the tech support at the local electric company and they don't give any answers about what would happen if I just disconnected my main panel breaker switch to ensure no power flowing then pulled the meter outside to work on the wiring inside.

One electrician says he's coming over today (no time or planned visit time shared, so I guess I just sit here all day waiting for him to show up whenever the mood strikes him)..... Sheesh..

Guess I shouldn't bash folks who are smart and work with electricity, but it would be nice if they operated with a little more courtesy to paying customers . (Of which they all have an overload presently).

I understand that the solark has passthrough.. just that the 15K is a brand new , complex box.. and if/when it fails I will need to do something to get it replaced/repaired... guess if I went with a replace always strategy I could just let it sit installed, broken and the power passthrough working and house up and running off 100% grid. Then when the new unit arrives the install should leave my home unpowered for only 1 day, using the main power disconnect to remove all downstream power to work on the replacement install. But since the transfer switch is in my house and was so inexpensive.. I am just going to install it, and label clearly so wife or future owners will know what to do to operate house if solark dies completely.

I was completely shocked at the retail big box prices of 200A fused cut off switches (Required for solark per code), and the transfer switch. Folks need to add $900-1200 to the price of the inverter just for those pieces of hardware, not including wire , conduit, and other incidentals.
Click to expand...
Can get the recommended fusible disconnect for significantly cheaper from this site.

SQUARE D D224NRB 200A-240V RT SW | Gordon Electric Supply, Inc.

SqD D224NRB General Duty 200A 240V 2-pole 3-wire Fusible Safety Switch. Nema 3R enclosure.
www.gordonelectricsupply.com www.gordonelectricsupply.com
 
Note that the transfer switch, unless it is fused, doesn't provide the over-current protection probably required before SolArk.
For most residential applications we have a main breaker rated 22k AIC. (The branch breakers are rated 10k AIC).

I happen have underground service to meter and 200A breaker before anything else, which makes all this easier.

Getting all your ducks in a row and then having utility shut off power seems like the way to go.
Cutting their security wire and yanking meter may work, may expose to causing a short without OCP which would be bad. Company probably doesn't approve.
 
Hedges said:
Cutting their security wire and yanking meter may work, may expose to causing a short without OCP which would be bad. Company probably doesn't approve.
Click to expand...
Meh electricians cut them all the time and pull the meter to do their work.
Eventually the electric company will do an inspection and see it. Once you tell them you had an electrical emergency and your electrician removed the meter to fix the issue they pretty much just put on a new seal and leave.
 
RayofSunshine said:
As much as it pains me to say it, you can get it even $45 cheaper (with free delivery) from Amazon.
Click to expand...

Hope the one they ship is the correct part number, not the lower amperage one shown in photo.
(Pretty common for wrong photo to be shown in ads.)

I see a couple used on eBay for less:

www.ebay.com

d224nrb: Search Result | eBay

Buy and sell electronics, cars, fashion apparel, collectibles, sporting goods, digital cameras, baby items, coupons, and everything else on eBay, the world's online marketplace
www.ebay.com
 
Hedges said:
Note that the transfer switch, unless it is fused, doesn't provide the over-current protection probably required before SolArk.
For most residential applications we have a main breaker rated 22k AIC. (The branch breakers are rated 10k AIC).

I happen have underground service to meter and 200A breaker before anything else, which makes all this easier.

Getting all your ducks in a row and then having utility shut off power seems like the way to go.
Cutting their security wire and yanking meter may work, may expose to causing a short without OCP which would be bad. Company probably doesn't approve.
Click to expand...
Hedges... The plan is to follow the Schematic that Solark includes in the manual , fused disconnect switch first in line from meter to home, then the transfer switch (no fuse) then the 15K solark. Engineer 775 has shown this exact setup so I am pretty sure as long as the transfer switch is downstream of the fused disconnect I will meet code. Let me know if you disagree.. and thanks for the caution. I considered just cutting the security wire, but unless I have a licensed electrical contractor, who tells me it's ok to do that, then executes, I agree my local power company would not be happy. I have 200A service into my main panel with a main panel breaker, but according to the solark manual I STILL NEED a fused 200A cutoff switch to meet code if I intend on sending the main feed direct to the solark. Not sure why that is the case but I guess the solark is a more complex box when compared to a simple box with main circuit breaker, then branch feed circuit breakers to the house outlets.
 
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Meter --> breaker --> panel has protection.
Meter --> SolArk --> anything else would not be protected (if SolArk doesn't incorporate 22k AIC OCP.)

Meter --> disconnect --> fuse makes everything downstream good.
 
12kw_2021 said:
Hedges... The plan is to follow the Schematic that Solark includes in the manual , fused disconnect switch first in line from meter to home, then the transfer switch (no fuse) then the 15K solark. Engineer 775 has shown this exact setup so I am pretty sure as long as the transfer switch is downstream of the fused disconnect I will meet code. Let me know if you disagree.. and thanks for the caution. I considered just cutting the security wire, but unless I have a licensed electrical contractor, who tells me it's ok to do that, then executes, I agree my local power company would not be happy. I have 200A service into my main panel with a main panel breaker, but according to the solark manual I STILL NEED a fused 200A cutoff switch to meet code if I intend on sending the main feed direct to the solark. Not sure why that is the case but I guess the solark is a more complex box when compared to a simple box with main circuit breaker, then branch feed circuit breakers to the house outlets.
Click to expand...

From the Schematic on page 11, if one uses a generator transfer switch, there is no separate fused disconnect.
 
Little reminder. When adding the disconnect after the meter, it should be bonded, and bonding removed from your main panel.
 
I think most of those large generator automatic transfer switches are service entrance rated
 
Isn't he using a mechanical 200A transfer switch?
I'm sure it can take utility grid fault current for the length of time needed for OCP to clear (my 30A disconnect can), but need 200A OCP somewhere between meter and SolArk.

Maybe SolArk was assuming "Generator Transfer Switch" included OCP.
 
Has anyone bought a wiring trough for this yet? I'm assuming it needs to be 12" deep.
 
Danke said:
diysolarforum.com

DIY Trough

Just looking at wire troughs, they seem expensive. Are people making their own? Is wood a bad idea? Wanting one 6’ wide and 12” deep.
diysolarforum.com diysolarforum.com

ex: https://www.gordonelectricsupply.co...-Strt-Sect-Hc/6777909?text=F1212G60H&lsi=true
Click to expand...
Just a note to those buying the wireway or trough.. as shown in the linky above , there are no "end caps" included, and my local graybar location wanted $60 each for the 12x12 square endcaps, others wanted $50 each. I bought 2 on ebay for $12 each. So.. take your time and look around. And yes the 15K Solark extends 12 inches from the wall and you need a 12x12 wireway if you want a nice/neat set of conduit exiting the bottom of the solark into your wireway.
 
12kw_2021 said:
Just a note to those buying the wireway or trough.. as shown in the linky above , there are no "end caps" included, and my local graybar location wanted $60 each for the 12x12 square endcaps, others wanted $50 each. I bought 2 on ebay for $12 each. So.. take your time and look around. And yes the 15K Solark extends 12 inches from the wall and you need a 12x12 wireway if you want a nice/neat set of conduit exiting the bottom of the solark into your wireway.
Click to expand...

$12 is good deal, I bought from Gordon Electric Supply for $20. $220 for the trough.
 
Hedges said:
I don't think their drawing is correct, probably an oversight.
All the other drawings show "fused disconnect" between SolArk and meter.
Putting a transfer switch there doesn't eliminate need for OCP.

Click to expand...
Hello.. I am following the layout on page 9 (diagram 3) with a manual fused 200A disconnect connected to the grid input, then on to the manual 200A transfer switch, with the now fused input grid power daisy chained from the top of the transfer switch, back out and on to the solark per diagram 3. The middle (always on) portion of the transfer switch goes to the input of my main 200A breaker panel, then the solark load feed goes into the bottom of the manual transfer switch. Normal operation with Solark is switch down, everyone happy. Some problem occurs and I need to remove the solark for service or replacement and the manual switch goes up, and the fused 200A input grid power is directly fed to my main panel , and the solark can be removed.. just need to recall that the grid input on the solrak in this layout is always live, unless the manual fused shutdown is tripped off. Note that I don't plan any generator install, as my array of enphase solar panels will be connected to the gen input for ac coupled operation.
I have also updated my plan/layout to include two 250 foot runs of 10/2 UF-B wire suitable for direct burial in the trench with my 4/04/0/2/0 Al AC feed wire that will feed all of the enphase AC power to the house. PVC conduit pricing is out of site , so I am going the direct burial route for future DC panel expansion, and the two 10/2 runs will support 15-20 more 400W panels fed DC direct into the solark MPPT controllers to supercharge my existing array in future.

1659269914960.png
 
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