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Sol-Ark 15K All in One Inverter Released.

manual is acceptable too.
There is always the option to use an interlock kit. They make them for 200 Amp panels but I am not sure you can get the secondary breaker larger than 100 Amp. If the 100 Amp leg were used when the grid was down that might be sufficient.
 
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Last question.. Solar manual says that the AC output max is 50A from batteries
Then another 62.5A of AC Power with PV.
Is that second AC power max combined from both AC coupled and DC coupled panels?
Should I assume that in a grid down situation with Solar, and Battery available I can only have 50A+62.5A of power available to run my home?

112.5A? Max for the Solark?

Or are there scenarios where you could start with AC coupled power input, then add battery power as input, then if grid goes down for some extended period and you wanted more power available in home and your AC coupled was maxed out, you could hook up DC solar directly to the Sol-ark 15K.

Can someone help me understand how the input and output power varies as a function of AC coupled, DC coupled and Battery power available, all three or just some combination.

I understand that for AC coupled solar, when batteries are full and grid is down it shuts down the panels until some amount of battery is used up, then turns them back on to re-charge them. It cannot gracefully power them down as it does with DC connected panels.

View attachment 102449

This is another instance where Sol-Ark's documentation could use some work.
Also, could you let us know where you got that spec sheet, and the name of the PDF? Because the info you show is different from the one currently on Sol-Ark's Web site here, which shows 15 kW output from PV on grid and 12 kW from batteries off grid. What the "PV" line doesn't say is that this number is for DC coupled PV that gets inverted to AC. Also, it doesn't say anything about the total output of the inverter being 15 kW. So, the max (inverted) output you're going to get from any combination of DC coupled PV and batteries is 15 kW. And if you divide that by 240 V, you get 62.5 A. Another note: in order to produce that 15 kW of inverted output, you can connect an actual rated 19.2 kW of (DC coupled) PV panels input to the (three) MPPTs (6500 W per MPPT). Anything above that limit gets "clipped". Now, you can hook up another (max) 19.2 kW of AC coupled PV panels (let's just say through the gen input for this example), and the "inverter module" circuitry (to coin a phrase) will add that 19.2 kW AC power to the 15kW AC that was the output of the actual DC-to-AC HF transformerless "inverter" to give a total output of the "inverter module" of 34.2 kW. Divide 19.2 kW by 240 V, and you get 80 A. So the (max) total output of simultaneous AC & DC coupled input to the Sol-Ark 15K is 34.2 kW and (this is the part I'm not exactly sure of) 142.5 A (62.5 from inverted DC and 80 A from added AC coupled PV). All of the above numbers except for the 142.5 A are directly from Sol-Ark documentation and/or Sol-Ark Support. Oh, and remember: technically, Amperage is current, not power. Power is measured in Watts.

"Or are there scenarios where you could start with AC coupled power input, then add battery power as input, then if grid goes down for some extended period and you wanted more power available in home and your AC coupled was maxed out, you could hook up DC solar directly to the Sol-ark 15K."

Absolutely. Just remember each of the max values I gave above. So, let's say your house uses lots of power. Let's assume that on an average day, your AC coupled panels - cranking out an actual 19.2 kW because you oversized the panels to produce the max that the MIs (MicroInverters) could handle - just barely covers your actual average daytime loads. If you add batteries, they have to be charged somehow, so in the "power hungry" case I just described, they would have to be charged by the grid (or charged by the panels while the grid handled the loads). In a more frugal case, say the 19.2 kW from AC coupled panels more than handles your daytime loads. Any extra will first go to charge the batteries, and if/when they get full, it will sell to the grid (if set up in the Sol-Ark configuration to do so). But back to the first (power hungry) use case. If the AC coupled panels barely cover your daytime loads (either because your house actually uses all of the max 19.2 kW max of the Sol-Ark 15K, or your AC coupled array is < 19.2 kW, but it still just barely covers daytime loads), then you can still add up to another 15 kW (inverted) output of DC coupled PV panels (and use up to 19.2 kW of rated PV panel input to produce that 15 kW output) so that the AC coupled panels handle the daytime loads and the DC coupled panels charge the batteries (which were hopefully sized big enough to last you from sundown to sunup - and then some). By default, the AC coupled panels will satisfy the loads first. If there is any excess, then it goes to charge the batteries, then sell-to-grid. By default, the DC coupled panels will charge the battery first. If there is any excess, then it gets inverted to satisfy loads, then grid.

"I understand that for AC coupled solar, when batteries are full and grid is down it shuts down the panels until some amount of battery is used up, then turns them back on to re-charge them."

You forgot an important point. It should be "I understand that for AC coupled solar, when batteries are full and the loads are satisfied, if the grid is down, then it shuts down the panels until some amount of battery is used up or more load is applied, then turns them back on to re-charge the batteries and/or satisfy the loads." I believe I am remembering correctly that I was told that the Sol-Ark 15K is "smart" enough that it will use AC coupled panels to satisfy a (AC) load before inverting DC from batteries to satisfy it.

I hope this helps clarify things further.

P.S.: Before making any final design/purchase decisions, make sure you verify all of your assumptions (including any info supplied by me) with a Sol-Ark rep (preferably in writing).
 
I don't have a SolArk but from a high level viewpoint the AC coupled Solar can be considered pass through when the grid is up. It can be used instead of the grid for things like loads, relieving the inverter from that task. I agree it is important to verify assumptions and remember the limits are different if on grid or off grid.
 
I don't have a SolArk but from a high level viewpoint the AC coupled Solar can be considered pass through when the grid is up. It can be used instead of the grid for things like loads, relieving the inverter from that task. I agree it is important to verify assumptions and remember the limits are different if on grid or off grid.

I figure when you use the term "assumptions", you mean (in this case) @12kw_2021 (or just in general). I'm not accusing you of calling my information "assumptions", but I just wanted to reiterate to any other folks maybe coming in the middle of this thread that any product info I provide comes from official company documentation and/or from direct interaction with company Customer Support. Anything other than that will be qualified as such (as I did with the 142.5 A number).

We now return you to your regularly scheduled confusion...
 
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I figure when you use the term "assumptions", you mean (in this case) @12kw_2021 (or just in general)
i am not questioning your statements, The concept of questioning assumptions works for me because I sometimes make assumptions without checking them so an extra process of questioning has led me toward better decision making. You have helped clarify things on this subject by referring to the latest documentation.
 
There is always the option to use an interlock kit. They make them for 200 Amp panels but I am not sure you can get the secondary breaker larger than 100 Amp. If the 100 Amp leg were used when the grid was down that might be sufficient.
Honestly 100A is probably enough since our heat pump isn't fed from the main breaker. I also wouldn't need to have the meter pulled during installation if I just feed it with an interlocked breaker.
 
You may have to sell a kidney to pay for the 200A transfer switch.
That's why I figure an interlocked "generator" breaker on the main panel could bypass SolArk (main breaker 200A, backfeed 125A, pick which goes where.)
A separate "critical loads panel" could be similarly interlocked.

Interlocks are about $50 (for a stupid piece of sheetmetal), and branch circuit breakers about $135 (ouch!)

Hmm, suddenly 200A transfer switch isn't sounding so bad; found one for $500. Note this one is not snap-action, avoid switching under load.

 
You may have to sell a kidney to pay for the 200A transfer switch.
That's why I figure an interlocked "generator" breaker on the main panel could bypass SolArk (main breaker 200A, backfeed 125A, pick which goes where.)
A separate "critical loads panel" could be similarly interlocked.

Interlocks are about $50 (for a stupid piece of sheetmetal), and branch circuit breakers about $135 (ouch!)

Hmm, suddenly 200A transfer switch isn't sounding so bad; found one for $500. Note this one is not snap-action, avoid switching under load.

That one isn't service entrance rated so I'd need a 200A breaker between the meter and this transfer switch too
 
Ray of Sunshine.. I did as you suggested and went back to your post 408 and summary of the zoom call with Solark.
I will copy and paste what I thought was most relevant, but as you may have noticed my goal is to understand if I can edge my way to an "off grid" home using Solar, AC and DC coupled, Batteries, and the new 15Kw Sol-ark.
Your most recent post above (if the data can be confirmed by Solark as you and others have wisely suggested) indicates that when grid is not available, and the sun is shining I can have ~140A of power available 80A possible from maxed out (19.2Kw) AC Coupled solar that doesn't need to be inverted, and then the 62.5A from DC coupled Solar panels that are inverted and then the inverter is maxed out at 15Kw .

Here is your quote I will try to confirm with Solark
=========================================================
So the (max) total output of simultaneous AC & DC coupled input to the Sol-Ark 15K is 34.2 kW and (this is the part I'm not exactly sure of) 142.5 A (62.5 from inverted DC and 80 A from added AC coupled PV). All of the above numbers except for the 142.5 A are directly from Sol-Ark documentation and/or Sol-Ark Support.
========================================================

If this amount of current/watts is available daytime only, and 30Kw of batteries to run loads at night is also available, that sounds awfully close to an "off grid" I am ready solution.

Can I say Woo, Hoo?
:)

If this is true.. I am a little less cranky about all that extra money I spent on Enphase Micro Inverters, that when grid is down become completely shut off and worthless unless I go this direction with the Solark. (or other hybrid inverter solution)

I'm beginning to think of the Solark as a magic box that converts my Enphase, AC coupled Array to a daytime power generator that supplies my home power needs, and charges my batteries both on or off grid as the Solar array will run 24/7. (Night time solar anyone?) LOL.

That, (in my opinion) is pretty cool.. and makes me happy to spend the money on the Sol-Ark 15K solution.

Will let you know what I learn from the guru's at Sol-ark.. and hope to find a local installer to help me with my re-location of my 200A feed to my main panel to the option 3 diagram shared.

To answer the other question asked.. I had 3 or 4 of the Sol-ark Manuals open via browser, and may have inadvertently shared the spec sheet from the version I originally linked in my silly www search method earlier.

This one


Ok... So for a new product promised to be the "end all solution" I agree the datasheet/spec's need some clarification for max AC power available for all the different scenarios, DC Coupled Only, AC Coupled Only, Batteries.

But there is no question if you are converting DC to AC to use regardless of source (Solar, or Batteries) the Solark maxes out at 15Kw or 62A of power available.

Thank you very much for your kind replies/education.. this is fun.

I submitted a tech support request this AM to Sol-ark quoting the understanding of ~142A available in a grid down situation with both AC and DC coupled solar maxed out. Will share the reply and we can all learn from this thread
 
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Here is your quote I will try to confirm with Solark
=========================================================
So the (max) total output of simultaneous AC & DC coupled input to the Sol-Ark 15K is 34.2 kW and (this is the part I'm not exactly sure of) 142.5 A (62.5 from inverted DC and 80 A from added AC coupled PV). All of the above numbers except for the 142.5 A are directly from Sol-Ark documentation and/or Sol-Ark Support.
========================================================

If this amount of current/watts is available daytime only, and 30Kw of batteries to run loads at night is also available, that sounds awfully close to an "off grid" I am ready solution.

Can I say Woo, Hoo?
:)
Keep in mind that there is this thing called winter. It's not like you're going to see maximum, or even necessarily adequate production every day, week, month of the year, depending on your location. Though if you're able to pare down your consumption needs to a very low level, and will be comfortable with the lifestyle changes that may result, seasonal variability will be much less disruptive if you pull the plug on the grid.
 
I am setting up DC to DC with batteries, a STBY GEN and ATS.

I see the option of connecting the generator to either the ATS or the GEN input on Sol-Ark.

Pros and Cons?

I am thinking if I use the ATS connection for generator, I will have the option in the future to hook up additional PV with micro inverters to Sol-Ark via the GEN input.

Will the setting on the Sol-Ark allow me to only have generator start as needed (not enough power from PV and/or batteries) using it on the ATS connection when grid is down?
 
That one isn't service entrance rated so I'd need a 200A breaker between the meter and this transfer switch too

That may be; I didn't read the details.
In the SolArk schematic, 200A transfer switch was located after 200A fused disconnect at service entrance, so OK there.

This would allow choice of 200A straight through from grid, or 200A pass through SolArk from grid, supporting largest loads. More than the 125A into a single panel you would get using interlocked branch circuit breaker as transfer switch.

Adding a generator, could rewire so this switch selects between grid and generator feeding SolArk, with interlocked breakers at transfer switch. Alternately, a smaller switch selecting between generator and GT PV feeding generator input of SolArk; have to change configuration in that case. Yet another, generator feeds battery charger.
 
Keep in mind that there is this thing called winter. It's not like you're going to see maximum, or even necessarily adequate production every day, week, month of the year, depending on your location. Though if you're able to pare down your consumption needs to a very low level, and will be comfortable with the lifestyle changes that may result, seasonal variability will be much less disruptive if you pull the plug on the grid.
Hello
I understand/agree with your winter point.. I think some gov www site predicts 4 solar hours/day where I live, and 2 in winter. Fortunately I don't spend much time at the home in winter so needs/loads are fairly small. I just like the general idea of "hardware" insurance for grid down situations, and to repeat having $20K of Enphase inverters and pretty Solar sitting and shining in my backyard doing exactly nothing in a grid down situation is not something I want to live with.
 
Ray of Sunshine.. I did as you suggested and went back to your post 408 and summary of the zoom call with Solark.
I will copy and paste what I thought was most relevant, but as you may have noticed my goal is to understand if I can edge my way to an "off grid" home using Solar, AC and DC coupled, Batteries, and the new 15Kw Sol-ark.
Your most recent post above (if the data can be confirmed by Solark as you and others have wisely suggested) indicates that when grid is not available, and the sun is shining I can have ~140A of power available 80A possible from maxed out (19.2Kw) AC Coupled solar that doesn't need to be inverted, and then the 62.5A from DC coupled Solar panels that are inverted and then the inverter is maxed out at 15Kw .

Here is your quote I will try to confirm with Solark
=========================================================
So the (max) total output of simultaneous AC & DC coupled input to the Sol-Ark 15K is 34.2 kW and (this is the part I'm not exactly sure of) 142.5 A (62.5 from inverted DC and 80 A from added AC coupled PV). All of the above numbers except for the 142.5 A are directly from Sol-Ark documentation and/or Sol-Ark Support.
========================================================

If this amount of current/watts is available daytime only, and 30Kw of batteries to run loads at night is also available, that sounds awfully close to an "off grid" I am ready solution.

Can I say Woo, Hoo?
:)

If this is true.. I am a little less cranky about all that extra money I spent on Enphase Micro Inverters, that when grid is down become completely shut off and worthless unless I go this direction with the Solark. (or other hybrid inverter solution)

I'm beginning to think of the Solark as a magic box that converts my Enphase, AC coupled Array to a daytime power generator that supplies my home power needs, and charges my batteries both on or off grid as the Solar array will run 24/7. (Night time solar anyone?) LOL.

That, (in my opinion) is pretty cool.. and makes me happy to spend the money on the Sol-Ark 15K solution.

Will let you know what I learn from the guru's at Sol-ark.. and hope to find a local installer to help me with my re-location of my 200A feed to my main panel to the option 3 diagram shared.

To answer the other question asked.. I had 3 or 4 of the Sol-ark Manuals open via browser, and may have inadvertently shared the spec sheet from the version I originally linked in my silly www search method earlier.

This one


Ok... So for a new product promised to be the "end all solution" I agree the datasheet/spec's need some clarification for max AC power available for all the different scenarios, DC Coupled Only, AC Coupled Only, Batteries.

But there is no question if you are converting DC to AC to use regardless of source (Solar, or Batteries) the Solark maxes out at 15Kw or 62A of power available.

Thank you very much for your kind replies/education.. this is fun.

I submitted a tech support request this AM to Sol-ark quoting the understanding of ~142A available in a grid down situation with both AC and DC coupled solar maxed out. Will share the reply and we can all learn from this thread

"...If this amount of current/watts is available daytime only, and 30Kw of batteries to run loads at night is also available..."

I think you meant 30 kWh, right? I say this because of the reminder of the 12 kW max output of the inverter from batteries.

This brings us to another important point. If you want to maximize your energy capacity, you should consider the use of a "smart (electrical) panel". Some examples are Span, Lumin, Savant, and Leviton. If you need a new main panel anyway, Span would be a consideration. If you are keeping your main panel (or even if you aren't) one option you should consider for your application is the (not released yet - should be in the next few months) Sol-Ark Smartloads 14 panel. It is a separate box (not a critical loads panel) that connects to and works with your main panel. It removes the need for a critical loads panel because it prioritizes up to 14 of any of the circuits in your main panel. Retail cost is $3100, which is competitive with other smart panels. And it also has something the others don't: AI that learns how you use your energy to prioritize and schedule use (you have the choice to implement the recommendations or not). You can also chain multiple SmartLoads 14s to cover 28 circuits, 42, etc. There are YouTube videos that reference it (including the now infamous Tom Brennan Alt-E Conference webinars from late Jan, 2022, where you have to ignore his claims of doubling the output of your current setup just by adding micros). Who knows: if you are building your system before they release it, you might be able to convince them to let you be a beta site for the Smartloads 14 (especially if you're purchasing a 15K). Even if you can't include it in your initial build, you can always add it later. Just make sure to plan for it when laying out your locations, connections, conduit, etc. I'd recommend you do some research on it quickly so you can include any questions on it with the current (no pun intended) interactions you are having with them re: the 15K inverter.

Assuming you get the answers you want from Sol-Ark, I'd say you might be allowed a conditional "Woo-hoo!"... :)

"I'm beginning to think of the Solark as a magic box that converts my Enphase, AC coupled Array to a daytime power generator that supplies my home power needs, and charges my batteries both on or off grid..."

Yes, it does a lot of things, and in particular helps those that want to be able to maximize their current AC coupled panels, while transitioning to a greater off-grid use case. Just remember that charging the batteries this way is inefficient (2 inversions), and you will see even greater benefits when you add your DC coupled PV panels which will charge the batteries much more efficiently.

"But there is no question if you are converting DC to AC to use regardless of source (Solar, or Batteries) the Solark maxes out at 15Kw or 62A of power available."

Yes, but just remember the lower limits (12 kW, 50 A) from batteries only at night. The SmartLoads 14 is especially useful here.

"Thank you very much for your kind replies/education.. this is fun."

Glad to help. After being a sponge for over a year, it feels good to actually be a contributor.

"I submitted a tech support request this AM to Sol-ark quoting the understanding of ~142A available in a grid down situation with both AC and DC coupled solar maxed out. Will share the reply and we can all learn from this thread"

Looking forward to your post of responses from Sol-Ark. Just remember that the situation is daytime, high noon, no clouds, and/or PV panels oversized to allow for less-than-ideal-theoretical conditions (which may be what you meant by "maxed out").
 
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I just noticed that in the new version of the manual they say to use both sets of battery terminals if you want to use the full 275A
 
Just hit the 'Tube:

He makes really good videos but they have almost nothing to do with the Inverter itself. It's another one of his dozens of Ground Mount Videos where he focuses almost all of the content around the Ground Mount. I don't think I even saw the Sol-Ark wiring or the LCD Screen. He definetly is not giving away any information to people who might want to DIY a system.
 
"...If this amount of current/watts is available daytime only, and 30Kw of batteries to run loads at night is also available..."

I think you meant 30 kWh, right? I say this because of the reminder of the 12 kW max output of the inverter from batteries.

This brings us to another important point. If you want to maximize your energy capacity, you should consider the use of a "smart (electrical) panel". Some examples are Span, Lumin, Savant, and Leviton. If you need a new main panel anyway, Span would be a consideration. If you are keeping your main panel (or even if you aren't) one option you should consider for your application is the (not released yet - should be in the next few months) Sol-Ark Smartloads 14 panel. It is a separate box (not a critical loads panel) that connects to and works with your main panel. It removes the need for a critical loads panel because it prioritizes up to 14 of any of the circuits in your main panel. Retail cost is $3100, which is competitive with other smart panels. And it also has something the others don't: AI that learns how you use your energy to prioritize and schedule use (you have the choice to implement the recommendations or not). You can also chain multiple SmartLoads 14s to cover 28 circuits, 42, etc. There are YouTube videos that reference it (including the now infamous Tom Brennan Alt-E Conference webinars from late Jan, 2022, where you have to ignore his claims of doubling the output of your current setup just by adding micros). Who knows: if you are building your system before they release it, you might be able to convince them to let you be a beta site for the Smartloads 14 (especially if you're purchasing a 15K). Even if you can't include it in your initial build, you can always add it later. Just make sure to plan for it when laying out your locations, connections, conduit, etc. I'd recommend you do some research on it quickly so you can include any questions on it with the current (no pun intended) interactions you are having with them re: the 15K inverter.

Assuming you get the answers you want from Sol-Ark, I'd say you might be allowed a conditional "Woo-hoo!"... :)

"I'm beginning to think of the Solark as a magic box that converts my Enphase, AC coupled Array to a daytime power generator that supplies my home power needs, and charges my batteries both on or off grid..."

Yes, it does a lot of things, and in particular helps those that want to be able to maximize their current AC coupled panels, while transitioning to a greater off-grid use case. Just remember that charging the batteries this way is inefficient (2 inversions), and you will see even greater benefits when you add your DC coupled PV panels which will charge the batteries much more efficiently.

"But there is no question if you are converting DC to AC to use regardless of source (Solar, or Batteries) the Solark maxes out at 15Kw or 62A of power available."

Yes, but just remember the lower limits (12 kW, 50 A) from batteries only at night. The SmartLoads 14 is especially useful here.

"Thank you very much for your kind replies/education.. this is fun."

Glad to help. After being a sponge for over a year, it feels good to actually be a contributor.

"I submitted a tech support request this AM to Sol-ark quoting the understanding of ~142A available in a grid down situation with both AC and DC coupled solar maxed out. Will share the reply and we can all learn from this thread"

Looking forward to your post of responses from Sol-Ark. Just remember that the situation is daytime, high noon, no clouds, and/or PV panels oversized to allow for less-than-ideal-theoretical conditions (which may be what you meant by "maxed out".
Hi.. Yes I just got 30Kwh of Lifep04 cells delivered yesterday from the 1650 battery group in Georgia. I also got my very high tech dewalt metal yellow rack to stack the two 48V batteries on. Sorry for the typo.

I've heard about smart panels, and find it interesting, but I think I need to get all the current hardware I have purchased up and running first, but I will be sure to leave some room adjacent to my main panel.

Now if I could just find an electrician to help move the main 200A feed to my main breaker, and install the wires to the Bypass switch, and fused switch.

I'll let you know what reply I get from Solark.... and understand that my usage at night needs to be under 50A load.

And yes maxed out solar is "over paneled" and yes I understand that going from DC to AC, then back to DC to charge batteries is not ideal, and fully agree a mixture of AC and DC coupled panels appears to be optimum for this inverter.

Thanks again for sharing.
 
Getting the rest of my balance of system stuff in and about to commence installing my 15K and SOK batteries.

So considering everything we’ve learned in this thread, I have two questions:
  1. I have 18.3kw of solar going through 3x SMA Sunny Boy 6kw. My current idea is to keep one of the Sunny Boys and DC couple the other ~12kw to the Sol-Ark. Would you:
    1. LEAVE ALL THE SUNNY BOYS AND AC COUPLE. KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!
    2. Get rid of all that German stuff and DC couple everything even though your panels can easily blow through 15kw.
    3. Go with your current plan, kdub. That's the best.
  2. My power company requires a second meter as a production meter. With an all-in-one unit, this becomes redundant to the main bi-directional meter and will no longer tell the poco how much AC power I'm actually adding to the grid. I've got a call in to them, but hell, who knows when they'll decide to call back. How would you guys handle it?
Can't wait to start install. I'll provide lots of pictures and notes as I progress.
 
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