diy solar

diy solar

Solar panel mounting on RV

What size plus nuts did you use? I am torn between 1-20 and 5/16-18. Did you use the well nuts at all. I have 4 10 foot strips of painted unistrut (figured it might be more rust resistant). My roof pitches from front to rear on one side of the divide and from rear to front on the other side. I plan to mount all my panels behind the divide so don't think water drainage will be much of an issue. I had planned to use double sided butyl tape along the whole strut channel for extra grip. with up to 6 plus nuts per strip am thinking I may not need the butly tape at all other than help sealing at the points where the plus nuts are mounted and the strut channel is bolted down but will prolly run the butyl tape whole length.
Here is what I ordered. I didn’t use the Rivet Nuts.
 

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Firetodd,

I just join this forum and found you. I am interested to get Victron MultiPlus-II 12/3000/120-50 2x120V Inverter/Charger until I saw videos about MPP LV6548 by Will Prowse and then found you here. I believed that LV6548 is very simple and cheaper. If you would start all over then which one would you pick Victron or MPP LV6548? Thank you for all of your input here!!!

DFGolf19
 
It's been awhile since I've been on the forum. I'll be shortly mounting panels as well as other equipment on top of my new truck. Before getting started I wanted to read some of the posts on the Vehicle Solar Mounting System thread to get some ideas. My plan is to mounted everything using 80/20 aluminium. It for sure will be easier than what I just saw. I can't seem to find anyone else who has used It? Am I just not looking in the right place? A little help would be appreciated.
 
Firetodd,

I just join this forum and found you. I am interested to get Victron MultiPlus-II 12/3000/120-50 2x120V Inverter/Charger until I saw videos about MPP LV6548 by Will Prowse and then found you here. I believed that LV6548 is very simple and cheaper. If you would start all over then which one would you pick Victron or MPP LV6548? Thank you for all of your input here!!!

DFGolf19
LV6548 adds a lot more complexity because its 48v nominal. So you have to figure out how to power your 12v side still.

It's been awhile since I've been on the forum. I'll be shortly mounting panels as well as other equipment on top of my new truck. Before getting started I wanted to read some of the posts on the Vehicle Solar Mounting System thread to get some ideas. My plan is to mounted everything using 80/20 aluminium. It for sure will be easier than what I just saw. I can't seem to find anyone else who has used It? Am I just not looking in the right place? A little help would be appreciated.
I'm guessing people dont use 80/20 because it isnt cost effective? What do you gain over regular aluminum unistrut?
 
I'm guessing people dont use 80/20 because it isnt cost effective? What do you gain over regular aluminum unistrut?

That's what I was going to suggest. I can pop over to Home Depot and pick up their version of unistrut that is in stock. When I was looking to build a cabinet out of 80/20, the local stock was sketchy and expensive.
 
Home Depot and pick up their version of unistrut
Dawn dishwashing soap and water wash, a can of self etching primer, and some semigloss gray will keep those going for years btw. I’m averse to rust stains.
 
Firetodd,

I just join this forum and found you. I am interested to get Victron MultiPlus-II 12/3000/120-50 2x120V Inverter/Charger until I saw videos about MPP LV6548 by Will Prowse and then found you here. I believed that LV6548 is very simple and cheaper. If you would start all over then which one would you pick Victron or MPP LV6548? Thank you for all of your input here!!!

DFGolf19
The multiplus II is amazing and powers both legs. But for me, the simplicity of a one box does it all was a big plus. I did add the Victron 48/12 converter to charge my “house” lead acid battery. If money was no object Victron is top notch. But I love my LV 6548!
 
LV6548 adds a lot more complexity because its 48v nominal. So you have to figure out how to power your 12v side still.


I'm guessing people dont use 80/20 because it isnt cost effective? What do you gain over regular aluminum unistrut?
First if I'm correct unistrut at Home Depot isn't aluminum. It's galvanized steel and it rusts. 80/20 is aluminium, its far better product, it comes in 12' lengths, and many sizes and shapes. The available black anodized material is great looking and I think adds something to vehicle. It's easy to work with and the stuff can be configured and modified to make unlimited changes. Since 80/20 has multiple tracks, other things like awnings, Panel tilt racks, storage boxes, wiring or anything else can be incorporated in/onto the same sections. I would definitely agree 80/20 is bit more money but cost isn't everything. I know it'll look really nice on the 70K truck I just bought!
Take a look at some of these builds, and tel me what ya think? https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/threads/lets-see-those-80-20-roof-rack-builds.88684/

Hay man ...........HAGD
 
First if I'm correct unistrut at Home Depot isn't aluminum. It's galvanized steel and it rusts. 80/20 is aluminium, its far better product, it comes in 12' lengths, and many sizes and shapes. The available black anodized material is great looking and I think adds something to vehicle. It's easy to work with and the stuff can be configured and modified to make unlimited changes. Since 80/20 has multiple tracks, other things like awnings, Panel tilt racks, storage boxes, wiring or anything else can be incorporated in/onto the same sections. I would definitely agree 80/20 is bit more money but cost isn't everything. I know it'll look really nice on the 70K truck I just bought!
Take a look at some of these builds, and tel me what ya think? https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/threads/lets-see-those-80-20-roof-rack-builds.88684/

Hay man ...........HAGD
First I would never buy unistrut at Home Depot, thats like buying a cheeseburger at Taco Bell.... I can get 20' sticks of aluminum unistrut from my local electrical supplier, or my sheet metal supplier for $3-4/foot. It's also one of those things that most likely will never be seen underneath all of the solar panels.

I put galvanized unistrut on top of my $100k 5th wheel over a year ago. No rust yet.
 
aluminum unistrut from my local electrical supplier, or my sheet metal supplier for $3-4/foot.
I’d buy at that price. I guess I need to look around more.

Unistrut is handy.

Buying galv steel unistrut is ridiculously expensive considering some other formed-metal things are so much less money per pound. From my retail-side exposure 50-70% profit is built into the non unistrut branded items. The efficiency of the local lumberyard or local hardware store from 30-50 years ago has been lost to stock holders and mega retailer's “overhead” with 50-100% profit expectations VS the local company I worked for in 1985 where 10% was ok and 20% was over the top and we still had good medical coverage.

When I looked into aluminum strut at my local electrical house it was $75 for 10’
Maybe contractor accounts get it for less?
 
I've recently become familiar with an aluminum salvage yard. There is a crap-ton of aluminum at this place. Almost all of it is brand new, uncut lengths. But there is a shorts/cut-off section that I scrounge through. Next time I'm there I'm going to ask about aluminum strut.
 
I can get 20' sticks of aluminum unistrut from my local electrical supplier, or my sheet metal supplier for $3-4/foot.

Must be nice. I shopped around I think 3 or 4 different electrical supply houses in my area... not one carried aluminum strut of any brand/flavor. The ones that were willing to special order it for me... let's just say it was literally half the price for me to order the four 10 ft sticks I needed direct from McMaster-Carr, and that's *with* exorbitant shipping prices for an oversize/length shipping tube.

If I'd been willing to go with the weight of regular steel strut from the box stores or the electrical supply houses, it'd be different story.
 
The multiplus II is amazing and powers both legs. But for me, the simplicity of a one box does it all was a big plus. I did add the Victron 48/12 converter to charge my “house” lead acid battery. If money was no object Victron is top notch. But I love my LV 6548!
Firetodd,

Can you explain to me how you connect L1, L2, N, and GND into the LV6548 inverter? I saw a lot of youtube showing L1, N, and GND in the LV6548. Thanks!!!
 
Battery is being rebuilt and upgraded:
 

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