diy solar

diy solar

Sorotec REVO II 5,5Kw / EASUN( AXPERT/POWLAND) IGRID VE II 5,5KW

44v nominal is low, but should be able to work.

So all you want to do is pump and dump.

You already have a dump system, your SMA.
Winter is coming, your DC solar panels aren't going to provide that much electricity.

Thinking outside the box, why aren't you using that system?

Solar panels are DC, your battery is DC, you only need a beefy buck or boost converter to simulate being solar panel.

I think it would work even without buck/boost. I have 16pcs of the 44V modules, so I could connect them in series to get like 200V which is fine voltage for PV input of SMA..

But there's some issues. First of all, it would always run at full power. For "pump and dump" this is fine, but perhaps I would like to limit the power sometimes? At summer it could be beneficial to charge at day time with solar, then use power that during night.. so full "off grid" even when running grid tied!

It's probably possible to make an adjustable current limiting device, but would be much easier to just buy a separate controller for the batteries.

Then the bigger problem, my SMA inverter and solar panels are located in my cold garage which is some 100m from my house. This garage is COLD during winter, can be -30C. :) It's not a good place for the batteries, they should be in much warmer environment. I have another "warehouse" in the yard which I keep warm, but that's too far away. But a separate battery box + inverter could be fitted there with no issues.
 
A current limiting device can be built or bought.

"Buy Separate controller for the batteries" will be just that

I am aware of one widely adopted field where current limiting devices are used (together with lithium battery): E-Bikes (and E-cars obviously)

10kwh is hardly "car material" and probably the investment will be too high.
Also playing with the higher voltages does have its own disadvantages.

For cost efficiency, probably the best choice.

1 kWh used to be around €/$ 0.20 2 years ago, depending where in Europe.
Now I hear people paying as high as 2 euro at peak..

I don't know if you can sell at the same price, say it's 50%, then that can be potential 300 a month with 10kwh battery.

You will have some conversion losses.

Batteries is normally the biggest investment, you already have them.
Keeping them at Operation temperature doesn't have to be a big problem.
10 cm of polyurethane foam and a few temperature controlled heating pads will Protect the cells when needed.
Those aren't the costs, or worth the hassle / danger of the 10kwh lithium bomb Inside your home

The Revo isn't cheap for its own power consumption.
Besides this, it's loud.
It can charge (from my head) 40A maximal via grid, 90A (theoretical) via solar or combined.
The 5500 solar is in reality 4400.
Consequently, the 40A probably will be close to 30A.
Keep in mind the loss of +3A for grid connection.
The +2A for being turned on..

30A is realistic the max you can charge
10kwh at 44v, 230Ah.

7.5 hours charging time.

Then the feed back to the grid.
In the first firmware version I got, there was a nice setting to do just this (!!!)
While living off grid, I thought it was a neat feature.

Sadly with the first update it wasn't available anymore.

As I don't have CT sensor attached, nor grid, it can be "hidden" for me now.

It makes sense that you should be able to tell the start time to dump the stored energy to the grid, not only excess power after the batteries are charged.

You need to contact ella@soroups.com for better explanation if this feature is still available, or not.

Still...
Roughly 8 hours to charge the battery.
4 hours to discharge.
With a switch it should be possible to turn the unit off when it isn't charging or discharge , to preserve the 250 watt own consumption.

If it's on 24/7 you are looking at 10kw power consumption just for being powered on.

I can not confirm this with my setup.
No grid,no constant drain of 160 watt due to this.

The 5500 watt unit does consume about 75-100 watt for just being turned on.
Just like the mppt eats the first 100 watt from solar, that is never seen again, for the whole daytime of charging.
If the panels produce high enough voltage, but not yet enough amperage, it will eat from the battery.

During a long lasting rain it might be better to turn off the connection to the solar panels to preserve energy.

Living in Thailand, not a problem for me.
When I lived in Holland and a shower might me measured in days or weeks...
Especially during winter, the light is never enough to produce the 100 watt, and compensate for the many hours it was too low. There might be a small opening, less rain and gray.. not enough.

If I would be using the solar system there, I probably would make a light sensor and contactors setup to only connect with enough light.

I like your idea, even if it's not just for making money, re-use what you have available is good.

I have a different idea for you.
Perhaps you like it.
It's a bit the same as I do.

I have 43x panels (27x325 / 16x345w) way overkill on the many sunny days, but enough to last a week of rain with the 50kwh battery.

Little bit of wind turbines, that I need to change, as there isn't enough wind usually to even start them.

I have GPU's that do crypto mining to consume my excess energy, and are simply reduced or turned off when there isn't energy available.

Nvidia 3070 second hand will cost about 350 euro. And makes about 1.50 a day.
3.5kw energy per day.

3 cards, they will heat up the battery if you like :)
Even @ - 30c not a problem

Power supply, main board..
Lots of miners stopping (due to high energy price) should be fairly available.
Complete "mining rig" with power consumption of 10kwh per day (400-450w) should pay about €4-4.50 a day, with current low rates.
(The change to ETH 2.0 and different income streams are incorporated in this calculation)

Feeding back to the grid is something I have no experience with.
If you already have a setup that is capable of doing so, and your country pays a good amount of money for it, without too many restrictions..
Go for it.

In Thailand only a handful of brands and models paid enough Brown paper bags to be allowed, and even being allowed doesn't mean you can.
The grid is unstable, homes have normally max 10A power.
While it's cheap, 4-5 thb (€0.11-0.14) feeding to the grid (if you get permission) only gives 1 thb (€0.03) per kWh.

I don't know how long the power is cheap, how many hours you can buy at a low price, nor how many hours you can sell at a high price.

One Revo II 3.2 or 5.5 model can realistic charge 30A (on paper 40A) of 44v (or higher voltage, depending on your setup)

I don't know if it can discharge at maximal capacity to the grid.
In my memory of the first firmware I saw 2 years ago, it was the same as charging from the grid, 40A.

Even if it can do 40A, 1750w, about 6 hours for charge and 6 for discharge.

2 parallel units of 3.2kw would reduce the time, not sure if it will double the 160 watt for grid connection.

Again, Ella should be able to tell this

What does work is to use the additional stored energy for crypto mining:)
 
I have iGrid VE II 5.5 Kw and it is possible configure almost all settings programmatically via serial connection. So far, I haven't found a way to reconfigure PV capacity, Peak and Valley, CT sensor calibration. But I don't need change these values dynamically. Thus if you are able to communicate from Raspberry Pi with your iGrid VE II 3k (read values), it could be possible as well. I personally integrated my inverters into the smart home system and dynamically control all parameters including mode depending on the system needs. I haven't connected it directly to my Raspberry Pi but via intermediary components MAX232, ESP12F (own firmware on ESP 8266 implementing MQTT connection via WiFi with my MQTT broker running on Raspberry Pi). Raspberry Pi isn't in the RS232 cable limit distance to the inverters. The main brain of the system is in Raspberry Pi, but some critical functions like safety protection for system overloading is running locally in ESP 8266 to avoid failures in case that WiFi, MQTT or Raspberry Pi is not available. I've already burned many IGBTs, MOSFETs and driver circuits on the main board due to inverter overloads. I control turn off big loads, or at extreme case disconnect the whole home electricity from the inverter using big contractors.
Hi Dave,
i just bought an IGrid VE II 5.5kW Hybrid Inverter from EASUN.
How did you do serial connection (Terminal program ?, Local software ?)
Unfortunately i could not find any information about serial connection until now.
Thanks great for your help!
 
Szia.
Van egy problémám, és nem találok megoldást.
valami ötletetek mi a baj?
nincs AC bekötve a bemenetre, mégis 468V-ot ír.
az akkumulátort 99,9 V-nak látja.
the attached picture shows the error
 

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Translation said:

f27szerviz wrote:

Hi.
I have a problem and I can't find a solution.
any ideas what's wrong?
there is no AC connected to the input, yet it says 468V.
it sees the battery as 99.9V.
 
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Looks like double the normal reading.

The "bus voltage" is 450v max, so that ain't it.

It's obvious not normal, but how are the voltages when you measure them with a multimeter?

Does it still function? Charging as it should, providing 220-240v AC?
 
Úgy tűnik, a normál érték duplája.

A "buszfeszültség" max 450V, szóval nem.

Nyilván nem normális, de milyenek a feszültségek, ha multiméterrel méred?

Működik még? Töltés ahogy kell, 220-240V AC biztosítva?
semmi sem kapcsolódik.
NINCS AC.
Így jött a gyárból.
fordított polaritású kondenzátor lett beépítve, kicseréltem és egy hétig tökéletesen működött.
ha véletlenül helyesen írja az adatokat, akkor minden jól működik
 

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semmi sem kapcsolódik.
NINCS AC.
Így jött a gyárból.
fordított polaritású kondenzátor lett beépítve, kicseréltem és egy hétig tökéletesen működött.
ha véletlenül helyesen írja az adatokat, akkor minden jól működik
Please reply in English.

If this is how you received it from the factory, and needed to fiddle with capacitors...
It's a warranty issue.

It should work right out of the box.
If there is any need for soldering or changing parts...

It is a "DOD" (dead on arrival)
But it will be a hassle to get a warranty claim after fiddling with it...
 
Please reply in English.

If this is how you received it from the factory, and needed to fiddle with capacitors...
It's a warranty issue.

It should work right out of the box.
If there is any need for soldering or changing parts...

It is a "DOD" (dead on arrival)
But it will be a hassle to get a warranty claim after fiddling with it...
sorry, I wrote in English, it just turned the pages for some reason.
I am constantly talking to easun power, at their request I tried to solve the dust problem, but they are not really ready to help since the 15-day customer guarantee on AliExpress went live.
unfortunately, it should be fixed now, because they won't be able to solve this problem.
Do you have a solution where the problem might be?
 
If you connect the 230V, f27szerviz, what does the device display?
if I want to turn it off, the fans spin pulsating and cannot be turned off.
 

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does not deal with AC in this case.
If that means you didn't connect anything to the left AC connector, try bridging the left AC connector. Then he is sure to have 0 V and should also display it. The better test would be to actually connect 230V~.
Another question:
The accumulator shows 99.9V. How much does a multimeter actually show on the accumulator.
 
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If that means you didn't connect anything to the left AC connector, try bridging the left AC connector. Then he is sure to have 0 V and should also display it. The better test would be to actually connect 230V~.
Another question:
The accumulator shows 99.9V. How much does a multimeter actually show on the accumulator.
463V is the same even if I bridge it in vain
if I connect the alternating current it is still 463V
the battery shows 99.9V, but currently 48V is connected there.
but the inverter still starts from that.

if I connect solar, it clearly shows its voltage.
but the other measurements are still wrong.
if I turn off the battery from the menu, it switches to 0.
 
463V is the same even if I bridge it in vain
if I connect the alternating current it is still 463V
the battery shows 99.9V, but currently 48V is connected there.
but the inverter still starts from that.

if I connect solar, it clearly shows its voltage.
but the other measurements are still wrong.
if I turn off the battery from the menu, it switches to 0.
Thanks, my device shows current and voltage values that are up to 20% higher than the multimeter. The built-in power switch also has incomprehensible effects on me. That's why I put extra switches on all inputs and outputs. In fact, the box consumes up to 160W, even when it has nothing to do.
AliExpress paid me back 10% because my batteries had too little capacity.
 
Thanks, my device shows current and voltage values that are up to 20% higher than the multimeter. The built-in power switch also has incomprehensible effects on me. That's why I put extra switches on all inputs and outputs. In fact, the box consumes up to 160W, even when it has nothing to do.
AliExpress paid me back 10% because my batteries had too little capacity.
I currently suspect the circled module, but I don't understand it that much.

it worked for me after repair for more than a week in island operation.
a whole household.
yesterday morning he went crazy again.
I have another one like this, it has been working for more than 1 year with 50% load 0-24 in.
 

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Maybe you can swap the suspected module between the two devices?
I thought about it, but I dare not let it get damaged.
it works continuously.
mining machines are constantly being used.
 

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I'm surprised that the defective unit still providing AC power.

Bus overvoltage 01 usually is a dead inverter.

Easun isn't Sorotec.
They are thieves,lyers and cheaters, who promises anything to pass the deal.

I bought hybrids from them, one apparently defective,and charged my (new) 16x deep cycle 200Ah lead acid with 78v..
That took a month before it killed the bateries...
While I was able to return, I lost 50%,and obviously the $5000 on lead acid ...

In short, you are screwed.
MPPT is functional, do is the display module
Changing parts yourself is already a "no go zone" for warranty, and you should habe opened a dispute directly on AliExpress when it wasn't working correctly.

If you payed by credit card, and have all communication where Easun asks you for repair, you might get lucky via them to get refund.

They helped me with the Alibaba purchase, sadly I still lost Import charges, and return shipment costs.
Collateral damage of the 16 batteries wasn't covered....

Your display, communication board and MPPT might be worth something on eBay, other parts probably fried.

Knowing how EASUN works, they just shipped out a known dead unit, as they really don't give a "peep".??

You can contact ella@soroups.com for a new main board, it won't be cheap.

Or buy not OEM but from Sorotec them selves.

If it's a software bug, you can update the display firmware to nr. 15, it's a few posts (pages) back in this thread.

Unless you are mining bitcoin, it's dead anyways..
GPU mining, my 3070 did at best (may 2021) 8 bucks a day, now about $0.25..
While we live off grid, and it's only consuming energy "left over", for under a dollar a day it's not worth the additional effort for cooling and such.

Airconditioning needs to work more, here in hot Thailand.
Obviously some noise, fans wearing, etcetera.
Running the mining cards isn't free, even when the electricity is "free"

(27 X 325w, 16x345w poly panels, 50kwh lifepo4, 3 Sorotec Revo II was quite an investment)

The 25 cents (at +200w, 24hrs,. 5kwh per day) isn't even enough to cover the additional cycles on the lithium battery (!)

Anyway, that is a totally different situation :)

Try your credit card company to see if they can help.
Or buy new main board from Sorotec.

Again, warning for anyone who thinks about buying EASUN... Don't.
Their cheaper price comes with a lot of headache and additional costs.

Sorotec never will be the quality as Victron, then again, you don't pay 2500 for only the inverter, 500 for mppt, and 1000 or so for the additional toys needed...

$500 Vs 4000...
(Rough figures)
 
I currently suspect the circled module, but I don't understand it that much.

it worked for me after repair for more than a week in island operation.
a whole household.
yesterday morning he went crazy again.
I have another one like this, it has been working for more than 1 year with 50% load 0-24 in.

I have a few controller boards spare, and willing to send one to you for free.
That is, you pay for the transport, I'm not Santa)

They can't be updated (Sorotec doesn't release the firmware) so they are older versions, what might give other issues.

You might need to downgrade the display firmware to be a good match, but it should at least be functional without the crazy errors.

Transport from Thailand globally is about $45
FedEx via shipment broker, and usually arrives within 10 days.

Exact price I can look if you are interested.
EMS (normal post office) takes 3-4 weeks (or a lot longer) and is the same price.

PM me if you are interested.
I will find the latest version for you in my pile ?
 
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