stupid question

[Steve_S]

The Midnite is pretty much plug and play.
You have to buy the breakers and install them but other than that just connect your battery.

The class T fuse at the battery.

Now that isolates the battery.
I suppose you could put Anderson or something similar for a quick disconnect.

Just finished another system install using a Midnite Baby BigBox and their latest Polarized Breakers and VOILA a GOTCHA ! Not a Good One either !
They made a "slight" change with the breakers and they no longer have "grabber" ridges in the clamp so they don't "bite" the wire to hold it. It's NOT an "end of world" thing by any means BUT makes fiddling around tougher cause you CAN pull the wiring free even when tightened down well.

A penny pinching thing ? Does not make sense... Why remove the Grabber ridges...

One thing that is FINALLY catching on in North America is the use of DINrails and boxes that support them... Old Hack in Europe & Asia and has taken forever (so it seems) to get to NA but they are here now... ANY DINRAIL box can serve... There are also a lot of bits that can use DIN without needing a box at all... IE "Marettes" are finally finding Retirement in North Ameria too ! That only took 20 some years to catch up...

 

[HRTKD]

A penny pinching thing ? Does not make sense... Why remove the Grabber ridges...

More contact surface?

 

[Steve_S]

More contact surface?

They are pretty much smooth inside now... I have a couple of older ones in stock that have a more defined "ridge" inside that actually grabs the wire and holds it from slipping out. Same amount of surface, no difference. Maybe an "off" batch ?

 

[Nobodybusiness]

Looked up the Midnite lithium battery combiner enclosure. Boy they are pricey for a simple metal box with some bus bars. https://www.midnitesolar.com/productPhoto.php?product_ID=686&productCat_ID=9&sortOrder=1&act=p I also do not like the lack of isolation for pos and neg. I would want a insulating barrier dividing the two to help prevent any chance of short during wiring. I also would prefer a non metal enclosure.

However it is close to the concept if other components such as the fuse holders, disconnect breaker and also the Anderson connectors were incorporated. Perhaps some company will market one. Of course the Chinese will than make a cheap knock off version and flood the market.

Yea it’s pretty expensive.
The only value add to the box is pre cut slots for the breakers.

We have the 1000 amp one.

 

[davy]

my brother-in-law bought a power queen 12v lifepo4 200ah (200a bms). He will use this with a 2000w inverter. Should he install a class T fuse here?or just a mega fuse?

 

[ricardocello]

One thing that is FINALLY catching on in North America is the use of DINrails and boxes that support them... Old Hack in Europe & Asia and has taken forever (so it seems) to get to NA but they are here now... ANY DINRAIL box can serve...

I love the inexpensive availability of DIN rail plastic boxes on Amazon and elsewhere for things like DC breakers, network gear, industrial power modules, etc. None of them are listed to UL or other North American standards, of course (sometimes CE or IEC though).

I've had to get creative to put a DIN rail WaveShare network module and Carlo EM530 energy meter in a standard North American electrical 6"x6"x4" junction box, but I still need to cut a custom front panel cover for it.

The day Lowe's or Home Depot start selling DIN rail boxes and accessories, you will know that it has truly caught on.

 

[HRTKD]

my brother-in-law bought a power queen 12v lifepo4 200ah (200a bms). He will use this with a 2000w inverter. Should he install a class T fuse here?or just a mega fuse?

My preference is a Class T fuse downstream from the battery.

 

[davy]

My preference is a Class T fuse downstream from the battery.

thx.what size?also 200A?