System “crashes” when the sun comes out.

[Ste66]

Hi, I’m new to solar.
I’m converting a boxer and have put x2 100w panels on the roof. I have a fuse board with just lighting and water pump connected. All going through an mppt charge controller.
My issue is that the system seems to be working ok but as soon as the sun comes out the load fails (lights off etc).
I originally thought it was the charge controller so I upgraded…
Please help.. thank you.. Ste.

 

[Kenny_]

I think we're gonna need (a lot) more detail on your system, wiring, setup, components, etc....

 

[SamDeleted]

Have you got a battery?

 

[SeaGal]

I’m converting a boxer...

What is a boxer? ?

... this could be a fun guessing game for Advent Twenty questions, anyone?

 

[Texas-Mark]

but as soon as the sun comes out the load fails (lights off etc).

Where are they connected? If connected to the "load" port of your CC, it may be set to turn off as soon as solar is available.
As others said, we need more info on all of the components and how you have it wired.

 

[TomC4306]

All going through an mppt charge controller

This is not intended to run stuff.
Hence the name, charger.
Implies that it requires a battery.

 

[SamDeleted]

What is a boxer? ?

I think he's doing a Peugeot boxer van. I did a tranny once, never a boxer

 

[mikefitz]

Peugeot boxer van.

Promaster in US.

as soon as the sun comes out the load fails (lights off etc).

This implies there is a battery in the system. My guess is that you have loads connected to the load output of the solar controler. This load output may be programmed 'dusk till dawn'. Either connect loads direct to battery via a fuse or reprogram load output.

Typical small system. Battery monitor shunt optional.

 

[Ste66]

I think we're gonna need (a lot) more detail on your system, wiring, setup, components, etc....

Hi, thanks for reply.
Sorry I was vague… as I said, I’m new to this.
The 2 x 100 panels are connected to a 120ah , 12v battery. Fuse board with led lights, water pump.
All through a 60amp mppt CC..
When I press “load on” button on CC the light flash on and off or don’t come on at all.. the voltage indicator on my usb cluster flashes 888.
Hope this helps folks..
Thank you all for replies…Ste.
See pics..

 

[SeaGal]

What current are you drawing & what gauge wires are those? They don't look that big, though pic may be deceiving?

Also, use of crimped ring connections would be better than bare wire under washers.

 

[OzSolar]

Also, use of crimped ring connections would be better than bare wire under washers.

Agreed. Those need to go and I'll add that many RV's have burned to the ground because of such wiring methods.

 

[Texas-Mark]

A few observations. That is not a MPPT charge controller and no way it's rated for 60 amps. Cheap made in China PWM controller that is often misrepresented as MPPT and inflated current rating. Next, the "load" output is designed to power maybe a couple of amps at best (i.e. a couple of lights). As noted by another poster, you really need to power your devices directly off the battery.

 

[mikefitz]

Sorry I was vague… as I said, I’m new to this.

Did you bother to read my suggestions and look at the diagram in post #8 ?

The solar controller you have is often used to control lighting with the load outputs so the lights operate during darkness. As soon as the daylight causes an Input from the solar panels the controller turns off the load.

Either use the programming option to have the load output 'on 24 hours' or connect the 12v system to the battery direct.

It's OK being new to van conversions and 12v electrics, we all started out with not much knowledge.

Your solar charge controller is not true MPPT but should give resionable performance, consider up grading in the future. It's showing 13.5 volts, so some power from the panels is charging. At this time of the year , low sun angle and possible shading, it won't be high. Refer to the setting for showing current on the display, to see the charge current.

Issues that need to be tided up.

Any positive cable connected to the battery positive needs a fuse, suitable for the cable and whatever is on the end of that cable.
It seems most things are connected via the fuse distribution box. You need the appropriate fuse for each circuit, using 40 amp fuses in each location is wrong. You need a master fuse at the battery, as close as practical to the positive terminal, suggest 50A fuse and fuse holder, ( this assumes a lead acid battery)

Midi Link Fuses

Midi link fuses used for protecting larger current circuits in automotive, marine and leisure applications. Available in current ratings from 30A to 150A.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

The blade fuses in the fuse block will be in the range 5 to 20 amps depending on circuit.

Tidy the cables and use eye crimp connections where needed. Secure cables to relief strain on connections. Secure battery.

Tidy the stuff on the roof, 4 mounting brackets per panel, two per long side, at least two mounts per panel through bolted. Due to roof curvature it's easier to mount longitudinally .
The cable entry through roof does not seem fixed on a flat surface. The loose cables on the roof will 'slap' when driving, fix in place, perhaps under the panels.

Unless you already have a multimeter buy one. The best and most useful test meter for 12v systems in a meter with current clamp, example,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/MAXRIENY-M...8-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

[Ste66]

Did you bother to read my suggestions and look at the diagram in post #8 ?

The solar controller you have is often used to control lighting with the load outputs so the lights operate during darkness. As soon as the daylight causes an Input from the solar panels the controller turns off the load.

Either use the programming option to have the load output 'on 24 hours' or connect the 12v system to the battery direct.

It's OK being new to van conversions and 12v electrics, we all started out with not much knowledge.

Your solar charge controller is not true MPPT but should give resionable performance, consider up grading in the future. It's showing 13.5 volts, so some power from the panels is charging. At this time of the year , low sun angle and possible shading, it won't be high. Refer to the setting for showing current on the display, to see the charge current.

Issues that need to be tided up.

Any positive cable connected to the battery positive needs a fuse, suitable for the cable and whatever is on the end of that cable.
It seems most things are connected via the fuse distribution box. You need the appropriate fuse for each circuit, using 40 amp fuses in each location is wrong. You need a master fuse at the battery, as close as practical to the positive terminal, suggest 50A fuse and fuse holder, ( this assumes a lead acid battery)

Midi Link Fuses

Midi link fuses used for protecting larger current circuits in automotive, marine and leisure applications. Available in current ratings from 30A to 150A.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

The blade fuses in the fuse block will be in the range 5 to 20 amps depending on circuit.

Tidy the cables and use eye crimp connections where needed. Secure cables to relief strain on connections. Secure battery.

Tidy the stuff on the roof, 4 mounting brackets per panel, two per long side, at least two mounts per panel through bolted. Due to roof curvature it's easier to mount longitudinally .
The cable entry through roof does not seem fixed on a flat surface. The loose cables on the roof will 'slap' when driving, fix in place, perhaps under the panels.

Unless you already have a multimeter buy one. The best and most useful test meter for 12v systems in a meter with current clamp, example,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/MAXRIENY-Multimeter-Resistance-Continuity-ACM91/dp/B0BY3Y855J/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=2IXMCB8MYUMLP&keywords=dc+clamp+meter&qid=1701532207&sprefix=dc+clamp+meter,aps,124&sr=8-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Thank you so much for your time… I will re-model the whole set-up and start again…
Really appreciate it…Ste.