sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
Yes cooler than 25C,,, this screenshot shows 17C;
Ah... missed that.
VE Smart Network; I do not know what that is, but they are “networked together” so the MPPT reads the BM712 for temp, volts, & whatever else that software does. No “Internet” @ the Cabin other than our phones.
VE.Smart network is the means by which the BMV feeds the MPPT the voltage, current and temp data.
“Expert Mode” settings I will screenshot next time I am @ the Cabin & post them.
Want to check your absorption method/time. Since you leave it unattended for days at a time, adaptive is probably appropriate, but for days you're there using it more heavily, you probably want to go to a manual absorption time based on the Rolls calculation and/or tail current.
Regarding Utilization / Harvest; So much depends upon the weather & the last few days have not been Stellar for Harvest. Still, I think you are correct & the solution will be as you suggested @ the start of this thread;
1) Twin the battery bank in Parallel 2S2P ( 12vdc @ 500Ah )
I would do this as step #2.
2) Over panel to boost amps not volts; If the Sun is shining best harvest is 10am to 2pm, but I might be able to morning face & afternoon face a couple of added strings. I currently have 6 ( slightly mismatched ) 100W panels 600W 3S2P ( 60v @ 10a ). If I add panels, would I be better off with new 6 350W? 2S3P east south west. So 700W each string hoping for 70v @ 10a & 3 strings ?![]()
If you're adding to the same MPPT, you need to match Vmp. If you're adding to a new MPPT, or completely replacing all the panels, whatever works best. Since you're on 12V, there's no need to drive the PV voltage any higher than you are as long as you stay within PV input current limits.
If those 350W are readily available, that's the way to go.
Then I would use those 6 - 100W on something else.
Of course, I could buy a new MPPT that handles bigger volts, watts, amps if I twin the batteries & consider Rolls 50amps “recommended” 50x2=100amps “recommended” ,,, or 87.5x2= 175amps max.
The rolls manual also mentions a minimum of 10% of the C20 rate:
![1719519776940.png 1719519776940.png](https://diysolarforum.com/data/attachments/225/225091-dcf337d981d7e5536d5313990112e431.jpg)
(also noted the tail current)
So for 500Ah, I'd make sure you can deliver 50A or more earlier rather than later, so the staggered E S W strings would help you work towards that.
Now I understand that Farmer’s Quote;
Make Hay when The Sun’s Shining !!
********
Them farmers are smart.
On another note - Economics (Canadian Version)
I paid about $400 for that new Fridge. A same size 12vdc “solar” Cabin Fridge would cost me $2,000 to $3,500 approximately. It already had the inverter ( albeit I could have sold it ,, not my favourite activity - selling off my stuff ). Solar “tech” seems to keep getting better & cheaper.
If my 120vac Fridge craps out after a 2 year warranty, chances are I can buy another for $400 rather than another $3000 for a 12vdc. I am more of a 12vdc purest, but the economics don’t support that ( in my case ).
You're preaching to the choir... I'd never spend that kinda money for the "advantage" of 12V. We paid about $400 for a 10cu-ft Magic chef that uses about 0.8kWh/day @ 60W.