pilotdrh
New Member
Ok this is my misunderstanding then, I’m going off what I’ve seen on the sunsynk videos.
So basically you're hijacking the gen start contact.
Ok this is my misunderstanding then, I’m going off what I’ve seen on the sunsynk videos.
Thank you so much I was missing the obvious I had never heard the term dry contact before. I’ve just tested and have no continuity on pins 7&8 with islanding mode disabled (the factory reset now allows me to change this setting) and with islanding mode enabled there is continuity between pins 7&8It's a dry contact. Does not provide voltage.
Thank you so much I was missing the obvious I had never heard the term dry contact before. I’ve just tested and have no continuity on pins 7&8 with islanding mode disabled (the factory reset now allows me to change this setting) and with islanding mode enabled there is continuity between pins 7&8
This is great thank you I am sorting it now,Dry contact provides continuity, wetted contact provides voltage. And then there is an a, b, and c contact among the most commonly used. And there is also the bell alarm contact.
This is great thank you I am sorting it now,
Just out of interest I want to not draw any grid power during the day when energy is expensive (I set time of use to charge at night)
Put peak grid shaving is limited to a minimum of 1000w. Is it possible to only use battery power and no grid at certain times of the day?
Yes do you have yours set to zero export to CT?I have my ToU set so the battery is available 24 hours. I do not have grid or gen charge checked on the ToU. If PV is not enough it draws from the battery. Battery is recharged via PV. I do not sell to the grid. All of my load is on the load port, none on the grid side. I stay grid tied for the surge capacity if needed. If the battery gets to the discharge limit on the ToU it will draw from the until PV gets high enough to carrybthe load and get the battery charged to the ToU setpoint, then it stops drawing from the grid.
Make sense?
Yes do you have yours set to zero export to CT?
My PV does not make enough at this time of year to run the house (I also have my entire house connected to load) only thing grid is connected to is the grid input on the deye.
So I want use the batteries to supplement the PV and No grid unless the batteries hit 20% SOC which should in theory never happen.
My day rate for electricity in 44p per KWh
I then set the inverter time of use to charge the batteries to 80% from 11:45 to 05:25 as then I pay 10p KWh.
This seems to kind of work although sometimes it draws from the grid and not the batteries.
I now have the earth neutral bond sorted! The relay is now energised taking from the load output and hijacking the dry contact gen relay to join the neutral when AC is connected. All tested and works as it should.
Many thanks for the joint effort from you guys.
Just leaving a bit of headroom for the solar if the sun comes out!I have mine set for zero export to load. Zero export value is set 0. I used to get load oscillations after the battery finished charging but that was fixed in Dec with a new firmware. I have 21 kWp of panels so I rarely have to pull from the grid.
Any special reason not to charge the battery to 100%?
I have mine set for zero export to load. Zero export value is set 0. I used to get load oscillations after the battery finished charging but that was fixed in Dec with a new firmware. I have 21 kWp of panels so I rarely have to pull from the grid.
Any special reason not to charge the battery to 100%?
Yes do you have yours set to zero export to CT?
My PV does not make enough at this time of year to run the house (I also have my entire house connected to load) only thing grid is connected to is the grid input on the deye.
So I want use the batteries to supplement the PV and No grid unless the batteries hit 20% SOC which should in theory never happen.
My day rate for electricity in 44p per KWh
I then set the inverter time of use to charge the batteries to 80% from 11:45 to 05:25 as then I pay 10p KWh.
This seems to kind of work although sometimes it draws from the grid and not the batteries.
I now have the earth neutral bond sorted! The relay is now energised taking from the load output and hijacking the dry contact gen relay to join the neutral when AC is connected. All tested and works as it should.
Many thanks for the joint effort from you guys.
this is exactly how I did it and it is currently working as intended. Nice one for making the diagram that will save a lot of people a lot of time!The documentation from Deye and SunSynk has done a pretty bad job in describing how to perform a Neutral to Earth/Ground bonding when the 16K Hybrid Inverter is operating in "Island Mode" (When GRID is disconnected) and needs N/G bonding.
Keith from SunSyn has posted a YouTube video that describe on how to wire up a N/G bonding, without a schematic and is difficult to implement.
It's said Picture means a thousand words. So here we are, below is a picture of how to wire up a Neutral/Ground bond using a standard "Normally Open" contactor.
1. The example uses a 16 bucks din-rail "Normally Open" type Contactor available on Amazon.
2. Connector 7,8 a dry contact for Generator signal control line, will be used as the control signal for "Island Mode"
3. In the "Advanced Function" menu, CHECK the "Signal Island Mode".
4. When the #3 is enabled, the port 7,8 will be enabled to ON state when the GRID is UP. It will be OFF when GRID is DOWN.
5. You can use a multi-meter set to TONE TEST to confirm a continuality tone when GRID is up. NO tone when GRID is down.
6. In the diagram below, I will be using the EU standard wire color code. L=Brown N=Blue G=Green
7. A "Normally Open" type Contactor is used in this example.
8. Wire 7 to A2 (Neutral return)
9. Wire 8 to Neutral on the LOAD L,N input.
10. Wire N to R2 of the contactor
11. Wire G to R1 of the contactor
12. Wire L to A1 of the contactor.
Here's how this schematic works. When the GRID is connected and the "Signal Island Mode" is enabled in the Advanced Function menu. The port 7,8 signal will power the Contactor via A1 (Live) and A2 (Neutral return), which in turn will keep the R1 and R2 of the contactor "OPEN" and disabled N/G bonding. When GRID power is lost, power to the A1 & A2 will be lost and become "OPEN". The coil of the contactor will be CLOSED and R1 & R2 will be energized and bond the Neutral and Ground wire. When GRID Power is restored, which will take a minute. A1 & A2 will be ON once again and will disable R1 & R2; the N/G bond will be disconnected.
Hopefully, this will help the DIYer in the 230V world. In the US, the Neutral to Ground bonding is always enable by NEC code at the main entrance panel and don't have to worry about this. ?
View attachment 136766
Posted my setup, If you have a spare few mins I'd appreciate if you could cast your eye over it, if you see anything stand out as incorrect please don't hold back.The 16K was purchase with the idea of replacing the pair of Parallel Deye 8K Split phase with 51.2KW of LFP Battery backup. When I initially sized up the LFP battery based on 3 days of backup on the assumption of 3 days of cloudy days. With the 2022 Heat Wave, the battery run out of juice and I've to pull power from the GRID on multiple days. I toy with the idea of building a massive Clean Solar based Backup Generator. I hated those noisy and dirty gas based generator. I start testing by wiring the 16K to the LOAD output of the 2 Parallel Deye 8K and see if it will provide the correct frequency to the GRID input of the 16K. And sure enough it runs flawlessly since early on when I started posting on this forum. Now that I have completed the LOAD stress test on the 16K and again it perform flawlessly working under heavy load. I finally have help to mount the super heavy 16K onto the wall and complete the final wiring. Just in time for a week of continuous rain in the normally Sunny Southern California. This past Monday, the 51.2KW battery bank will drawn down to 25% SOC and stop discharging and instead start pulling power from the "GRID INPUT" provided by the 16K with 107.52KW LFP Battery bank. It works flawlessly and I don't have to flip the 200A breaker on the main panel. With the 107.52KW LFP battery, I'll be able to charge the EV at full 48A in about 5 hours from 35% to 85% whenever I need instead of breaking the charge over a couple of days using Solar.
Overall, this project has met all my expectation and works flawlessly as designed. From the get go when I first installed solar, I have decided NOT to have it Grid-Tie as I've plan to used LFP battery to store the excess energy produced from the PV system instead of Net-Meter with the GRID. The California CPUC were in the process of updating the current NEM 2.0 to 3.0 extreme changes to the GRID provider credit for excess energy feedback. Besides, the plan will be changed to TOU (Time-Of-Use) rate where it will double the rate from $0.26KW to $0.56KW between 4-9PM and a higher NON-USAGE rate. I'm glad on my decision to be Energy independent, just this week, more than Eighty Thousands families lost power during this extreme "Atmospheric River" phenomenal that hit California a second time.
On closing of this thread, will this works for you ? It really depends on, how comfortable are you at working with electrical system without much hand holding. If you're not comfortable, your best bet is to have a licensed electrician and spend some bucks with the folks in Plano, TX. Since my initial system were permitted, I've not concerned adding the 16K to the mix. Most of the folks that critique the Deye 16K being not UL listed and hence "dangerous" to be installed. Yet some have posted pics of cheap Chinese Battery that are not UL listed or DIY battery with cheap BMS. Though the 16K is not UL listed, it was certified by CE and TUV world wide standard world similar to UL 1741 specification. Most of the components used in the 16K are UL certified and you'll see UL logo on those component. Besides, it will pass UL 1741 test if one is willing to fork 40K for the compliance test with UL Lab as it's half brother the 15K did. The 15K is the same sh*t in a different cloth and some hand holding. Unlike like before where calls will be answered by a support dude in Plano, TX, it goes to voice mail and you'll have to wait for a call back. The Growatt transformer is UL 1741 listed. Besides, I have followed NEC code and apply best practice relating to safety.
Good luck and be safe ?
Neutral from Autotransformer Balanced Load 11.98A ~ L1-19.9A - L2-7.94A
View attachment 137239
I'm totally Net-Zero and Carbon Neutral on my Energy consumption. ?
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Fully charge to preset 85% SOC by the Deye 16K in about 5 hours. ?
View attachment 137240
Oh well, I have to pay $5 bucks for less than min. usage. Duh ?
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All, those who have ordered from alibaba, could you please share DM the vendor/URL for both the 16KW inverter and the transformer? Appreciate your help..
Maybe contact the Idiot:All, those who have ordered from alibaba, could you please share DM the vendor/URL for both the 16KW inverter and the transformer? Appreciate your help..
Here's how I intend to wire up for Split-Phase 120V~240V 60 HZ application.
View attachment 121002
16K LOAD output L N wired to the Victron 100A Autotransformer L N 100A double pole circuit breaker
View attachment 120996
Victron 100A Autotransformer ?
Earlier this year, there's a big discussion about installing of the Growatt ES500 with SolarEdge 5KW Autotransformer and the issues of Ground Bonding issues. Questions of Losing the Neutral when the Autotransformer is down and damages that will be cause to all 120Vs circuit breaker on the LOAD panel, suddenly becoming 240V and damage/frying to all 120V connected appliance. There were suggestions of using 2 Autotransformer and using relays to monitor the Neutral line and so on. Just a complex mess and no real solution to the problem when loosing the Neutral wire.
Well, in my application, with a larger 24K Autotransformer load balancing the LOAD output of the Deye 16K's 16KW, The LOAD panel will be wired directly from the Victron's output L1, L2 and N terminals. As such if the Victron or the Deye 16K is down, all circuits on the LOAD panel will be down automatically, period. No damage will be caused to both the 240V and 120V circuits. The Victron has a built in Earth/Ground relay, allowing for Neutral to Ground bonding. Simple and Elegant solution to a Chicken or an Egg problem ???
Here's how I intend to wire up for Split-Phase 120V~240V 60 HZ application.
View attachment 121002
16K LOAD output L N wired to the Victron 100A Autotransformer L N 100A double pole circuit breaker
View attachment 120996
Victron 100A Autotransformer ?
Earlier this year, there's a big discussion about installing of the Growatt ES500 with SolarEdge 5KW Autotransformer and the issues of Ground Bonding issues. Questions of Losing the Neutral when the Autotransformer is down and damages that will be cause to all 120Vs circuit breaker on the LOAD panel, suddenly becoming 240V and damage/frying to all 120V connected appliance. There were suggestions of using 2 Autotransformer and using relays to monitor the Neutral line and so on. Just a complex mess and no real solution to the problem when loosing the Neutral wire.
Well, in my application, with a larger 24K Autotransformer load balancing the LOAD output of the Deye 16K's 16KW, The LOAD panel will be wired directly from the Victron's output L1, L2 and N terminals. As such if the Victron or the Deye 16K is down, all circuits on the LOAD panel will be down automatically, period. No damage will be caused to both the 240V and 120V circuits. The Victron has a built in Earth/Ground relay, allowing for Neutral to Ground bonding. Simple and Elegant solution to a Chicken or an Egg problem ???
Mine has been flawless. Had issues with the batteries but the Inverter is spot on.Hey misterbubbacat how is the inverter holding up? any issues at all?