The power in doesn't have any of the electronics and doesn't have the hardware (nuts and bolts) to support fuses. I understand you can get the nuts and bolts and disassemble it to add support for fuses. It saves some $ over the distributer. I bought a lynx distributer, but would have bought the power in if I had known.Can anyone explain what the difference is aside from the LED on the Distributor? Also, any hacks to get the LED's working without a Lynx Shunt?
Can anyone explain what the difference is aside from the LED on the Distributor? Also, any hacks to get the LED's working without a Lynx Shunt?
What width copper bar are you using? And would your disconnect switch really fit attaching directly to the Lynx?Another thing I really like about the Lynx system is that the layout makes it really easy to tie a battery switch and shunt right into the lynx bus bars. See pic below. This is just a bench test setup of the system before I install it my van and I'll be using to charge and load test my DIY batteries. You could actually skip the extra copper bar and just attach the switch and shunt direct to the lynx bus bars if your setup allowed. I'll have multiple battery feeds, so needed to make a little room around the switch. View attachment 38289
copper bar is 1" wide and 1/4" thick. Yes, you could directly connect the switch to the lynx positive bar. You would need to drill out the hole on the lynx bus bar since the battery switch post is bigger than the hole on the bar. One potential challenge is that it would be pretty hard (maybe impossible) to remove the switch or connect/disconnect battery cables from the switch without unmounting the entire lynx itself. Since the battery post connections are on the back of the switch, it would be very hard to get to the nuts to do any assembly/disassembly once the lynx is mounted.What width copper bar are you using? And would your disconnect switch really fit attaching directly to the Lynx?
They are not raw aluminum. Plated something, not sure what. It’s rated for 1000a continuous and the bus bars are really beefy.Are the Lynx busbars plated copper, aluminum, or something else?
Can anyone explain what the difference is aside from the LED on the Distributor? Also, any hacks to get the LED's working without a Lynx Shunt?