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What wiring configuration do I need? First-time solar install.

chaostactics

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I'm trying to finalize supplies so I can get help installing, and I also want to learn more so I'm not useless during installation.

This is the diagram I'm following. I've also attached a pic of the inverter terminals.

The debate is if I need 10/3 or 10/2 and 6/3 or 6/2
X/3 = 3 load wires and ground, X/2 = 2 load, and ground.


Here is the wiring diagram, the inverter/charger (Victron 12|2000|80), and the wire they sold me at Lowes.

he black sheathed is the 6/2 I ended up with the orange sheathed is the 10/2. The inverter/charger will be chassis grounded via 2/0 cable through the Lynx bus

If I'm using 6/2 & 10/2 black to black, white to white, and paper insulated copper (aka bare copper) to green?
Or did I actually need 6/3 & 10/3?
Black, Green, and White to the respective and "bare copper? to...? The groundbottom of solar diagram.jpgzoomed in bottom solar diagram.jpgvery zoomed in inverter charger.jpgtempFileForShare_20230128-111423.jpgbottom of solar diagram.jpgzoomed in bottom solar diagram.jpgvery zoomed in inverter charger.jpgtempFileForShare_20230128-111423.jpgtempFileForShare_20230128-112036.jpgtempFileForShare_20230128-112048.jpg
 
I'm with MisterSandals, not completely sure of the question being asked. It sounds like it may just be a problem with terminology. The cable with the orange jacket appears to be type NM cable, AKA Romex, typically this product is for residential wiring and is sold as 10/2 (Black, White, copper ground) or 10/3 (Black, Red, White, copper ground) for some reason industry standard is to not count the ground wire. On the other hand with SOOW or marine cable the ground is usually green and is counted as one of the conductors for product description and ordering purposes.
Bottom line: The Victron is a single phase inverter with no center tap so there are 2 conductors and 1 earth ground, 3 wires. As long as the wire is chosen properly for the current and voltage it doesn't matter what weird, confusing descriptions are used.

Stranded wire is more flexible, easier to work with and is better at resisting vibration fatigue.
 
If this is for a mobile application, you should not be using solid core wiring.

I cannot follow where you are intending to use all the wires you mention.
It's on the wiring diagram. Do the wiring diagram pics not show up?

There's an AC in and an AC out on the inverter. Wiring diagram specified 6 AWG out to the main panel and 10 AWG in from shore power.
 
It's on the wiring diagram. Do the wiring diagram pics not show up?

There's an AC in and an AC out on the inverter. Wiring diagram specified 6 AWG out to the main panel and 10 AWG in from shore power.
With amps, volts and length you can find wire size here (keep voltage drop below 3%):


Let us know if you need any tips on using this calculator.
 
I won't know the total amperage until I hook anything up. The Victron says 50A for AC transfer capacity so 6 AWG should be fine for AC out. The RV is set up for 30 Amp so AC in should also be fine at 10 awg. As long as I'm using the calculator right...

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Looks right. .74% voltage drop is low so 30A easily handled for 50'.

TMI:
.89V drop x 30A = 26W of heat generated in the wire at 30A (probably not noticeable to the touch over 50' wire)
 
The debate is if I need 10/3 or 10/2 and 6/3 or 6/2
X/3 = 3 load wires and ground, X/2 = 2 load, and ground.
I think there's a misunderstanding on your/their nomenclature. "10/3" = 3 total conductors (one black/line, one white/neutral, one green/bare/ground). You make it sound like there are 3 load wires AND a ground. You just need X/3 to connect to the inverter AC input/output terminals.

And I agree, stranded conductors are easier to work with in an RV and will withstand road vibrations better. I ordered 10/3 stranded on Amazon.
 
10/3 or 6/3 would likely have black, white, red, and bare copper.
The current x/2 you have work be correct for a non-mobile install, as others have pointed out, you shouldn't use solid for an RV install.
 
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