wood screws

[John Frum]

I want to connect https://www.littelfuse.com/5studzcase# to https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/ivar-shelf-pine-80318165/
The mounting holes are m8(5/16"), flanges are ~3/8" and the pine shelf is 3/4".

I'm usually a VHB tape and industrial Velcro kinda guy.
I know this is very basic question but I want to do this properly.
It will bug me if I don't.

So my best guess is pilot holes and flat head #10-5/8".
The reason I thought to use flat heads is that the shape will make them "centre" in the hole.
What would you use?

General question I have a bunch of other components to mount https://powermaxconverters.com/product/pm3-24v-series/
Is it best practice to use pan heads, flat or something else?

Way out of my element here.

 

[snoobler]

If item to be mounted has countersinks, then flat head with countersinks.

For something like the PM3 and that fuse holder, use pan head.

Fully threaded.

Always drill pilot holes that are under the minor diameter of the screw helix.

The "centre" in the hole thing sounds good, but in practice, it's not always the most practical, and it also depends on your skills. When there's no countersink, a pan head gives a stronger mount because you're squeezing the faces together rather than squeezing a chamfer against a sharp corner.

 

[John Frum]

For something like the PM3 and that fuse holder, use pan head.

So I need something with a shaft of 5/16" diameter so that it doesn't wobble and ~3/4 to 1" long?

 

[snoobler]

You don't need the thread to fill the gap - just the head to cover the opening. Looking at my PM4, I'd try 3/16 to 1/4.

If you tighten it, it shouldn't wobble.

 

[John Frum]

You don't need the thread to fill the gap - just the head to cover the opening. Looking at my PM4, I'd try 3/16 to 1/4.

If you tighten it, it shouldn't wobble.

I mean for this https://www.littelfuse.com/5studzcase#

 

[snoobler]

5/16" would have to be nearly perfectly drilled. 1/4" at the largest.

 

[John Frum]

5/16" would have to be nearly perfectly drilled. 1/4" at the largest.

I've totally lost the plot.
I'm talking about the dimensions of the screws to get.

 

[snoobler]

Huh?

My "balance" of precision and speed usually favors speed at the expense of precision, so I look for more wiggle room. I'm not going to print out template, carefully put it in place, drill, test fit, etc. I'm going to drill one hole, level it, mark the second hole, drill it, install the two screws, drill the remaining two and install. Level and fully tighten. My mount is quickly done, level, but my screws aren't necessarily perfectly centered in the holes.

If you want to follow the mounting instructions, you have a 9mm hole for an 8mm screw. 5/16 is closest to 8mm.

 

[HRTKD]

Too much overthinking in this thread. The fuse holder isn't going to be moving around much.

Maximum screw length: 3/4" (overkill at that length)
Screw pilot hole: Take a drill bit and hold it behind the screw. Can you see the bit? If so, that's too big. The pilot hole is there to ensure that you don't split the wood. As long as the bit isn't a small fraction of the size of the body of the screw, you're good.
Screw head: Keep it simple, get a pan head. Otherwise, anything will do as long as it isn't beveled or countersunk. That would split the base of the fuse holder if you accidentally over tightened it.

My go to screw for just about everything is a drywall screw. If I didn't have the "right" screw for this job, using a drywall screw wouldn't bother me in the least.

 

[John Frum]

Mounted everything last night.

14x1" for the busbars
10x1/2" for the charger and battery protect
6x1/2" for the inverter

All screws are pan head.
Thanks to all.