At full speed the motor will take 1500W from a 52V 16S battery pack. That would be around 35mph. That is constant when riding at top speed on pavement. For off road then the speed varies a lot.
I have been trying to measure the internal resistance with what I could rig together. I got a new model
coulometer that I got a discount on (I posted the discount for others in another thread) and I was excited to hook it up but at 3.2V with a tiny load was all I could rig together. This meter tells me the internal resistance of the battery automatically. Need to wait for spot welder to arrive, in the meantime I will also order some alligator clips so I can at least get up to 12v so I can find a compatible automotive load. I had no idea that is how you measured the internal resistance, I thought you just check the ohms between + / -
I am excited that these seem to be new cells. I was thinking ALL the cells on aliexpress were heavily used and had downgraded capacity.
I also ordered some
14 ah rectangular cells. from a seller with a similar name but ppl are reporting only 12ah capacity (used?) and the same price with much slower shipping. The 33140 definitely seem the be the better choice and there are nice
modular battery brackets.
Sorry to put you out, doggy, you have shown your thorough knowledge about these cells, may I ask you a direct Q? I wasn't able to find any 52V fuse for the 52V 30amp ebike system. So I went with a
12V automotive fuse I see ppl using for RV solar builds. I ordered a 12V 40amp for the job, and I have a 60amp version onhand already. Do you think these will be able to stop the 52V arcing over the broken fuse conductor? I have a cheap hardware Daly BMS that will be installed but I would like to use the fuse as on ON/OFF battery switch. Also, since FETS on the BMS fail in a closed state, this will protect the battery from a short circuit caused by some crazy vibration water bike trail situation.