John Frum
Tell me your problems
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2019
- Messages
- 15,233
Here is the manual for your ac/dc distribution center https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/Support/manuals/110145-English.pdf
currently there is two sets of wires being routed to the battery positive and negative of the dc circuits , one set is from the SCC , but im going to rereoute that back down to the battery. It was installed this way by the RV dealer because it was seemingly easier for them to avoid having to wire the extra few feet to the battery compartmentOn the left side of the combined ac/dc distribution panel I can see there are many dc circuits.
I wonder if you are using any of them.
In order for you to use them they need to get power from somewhere.
They could be powered via the converter for from a battery.
Is there any voltage if you measure between pos(black) and gnd(white)?
I think what you are saying is the dc distribution panel is the aggregation point for your system.currently there is two sets of wires being routed to the battery positive and negative of the dc circuits , one set is from the SCC , but im going to rereoute that back down to the battery. It was installed this way by the RV dealer because it was seemingly easier for them to avoid having to wire the extra few feet to the battery compartment
i think the other two positive and negative wires come from the battery itself , but im going to take it apart and figure it out
yeah!!!! i think so !!!! and now im trying to add the dc-dc chargerI think what you are saying is the dc distribution panel is the aggregation point for your system.
The three system components I'm pretty sure you have are scc, batteries and inverter.
I believe the inverter is connected directly to the batteries.
I also think the dc distribution panel feeder wires are connected directly to the battery.
Finally it sounds like the system side of the scc is connected to the dc distribution panel.
Can you verify my assumptions?
Please do an orthodox system with high current busbars.yeah!!!! i think so !!!! and now im trying to add the dc-dc charger
and then just a few fuses to protect it all
i already got the busbars rated for 250ampsPlease do an orthodox system with high current busbars.
I can draw something for you but would not to get a bunch of requirements from you.
i already got the busbars rated for 250amps
that sounds awesome joey i would greatly appreciate it
thank you, you're the man !!! i owe you oneI get back to you later today with some questions.
And then do rev-001 of your drawing.
One day, and that day may never come...thank you, you're the man !!! i owe you one
the battery is about 3-5 feet of wire from the main distro panelHow far from the main system to the dc/distribution as the wire flies?
Closer is better if you have not yet decided where to put things.
i have the victron mppt 100/50 , the panels will be wired in series based on the calculation below , i will be under the 100voltsAre you really going to use a 100 amp solar charge controller?
i already purchased the 60a , im using a 250a high output altn on the f350Are you really going to use a 60 amp renogy dc2dc charger?
Does your alternator have 60 amps of spare capacity?
How far between the alternator and the main system as the wire flies?
4 studs rated to 250 ampsHow many studs on the busbars?
I'm going to draw it with the wire that I think is right.the battery is about 3-5 feet of wire from the main distro panel
i have the victron mppt 100/50 , the panels will be wired in series based on the calculation below , i will be under the 100volts
voltages for each panel = 20.4v + 20.4v + 16.77v + 16.77v + 17v = 91.34v * (lowest amps = 9.45a) = 863w. This would be 863w/940w (max) = 91.8% of the max."
i already purchased the 60a , im using a 250a high output altn on the f350
itll be approx 20-25 from vehicle battery to dc charger , and then less than 5 feet from dc charger to battery , i purchased wire and fuses based on this diagram
View attachment 68204
4 studs rated to 250 amps
Ok sureI'm going to draw it with the wire that I think is right.
Probably going to be different than what you have .Maybe you can return or sell on the bits that don't match.
Since you have a smart bms you don't really need that victron battery monitor, is it there for a specific reason?
I got it for $30 on Amazon unlesss I bought the wrong one. I added it bc i saw everyone else had one and it seemed like it would make sense to have a safety cutoff switch to the positive batteryThat bluesea remote battery switch is going to be stupid expensive.
Suggest we go with a breaker and and 5x 150 amp mrbf fuse unless you have a specific need for a remote control switch.
I’ll take a look at these , thanks JoeyMechanical Products 174-S0-150-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker | Waytek
Mechanical Products 174-S0-150-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 1/4" Stud, 150A is in stock and ready to ship. Order today!www.waytekwire.comEaton's Bussmann Series MRBF-150 Marine Rated Battery Fuse | Waytek
Eaton's Bussmann Series MRBF-150 Marine Rated Battery Fuse, rated at 150A for 58VDC systems with bolt-down design are available at Waytek today. In stock, order today!www.waytekwire.com
One of these for the positive busbar
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/45546/Littelfuse-0FHZ0007Z-FHZ-Series-ZCASE-Fuse-Holder-/
Yes I have itIs that Onan generator part of you setup?
What is the continuous rating in watts for the generator?Yes I have it
It’s the Onan LP 2500 , 2500 wattsWhat is the continuous rating in watts for the generator?
Does your rig also have a shore power inlet?
If yes it probably has an automatic transfer switch as well.
The box will have 3 wires connected to it.
1. in from generator
I do have a 30amp shore power inlet , and I do have a transfer switch near the generator2. in from shore power inlet
3. out to ac distribution panel
Please confirm my assumption.