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diy solar

cheap Mppt any good ?

marbella

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Feb 11, 2022
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I found this cheap MppT on amazon https://amzn.eu/d/7DdsNbj does it serv me for 3s4p poly 230W 36V 8A
PowMr MPPT Charge Controller 60 amp 48V 36V 24V 12V Auto - Max 160VDC Input LCD Backlight Solar Charge for Vented Sealed Gel NiCd Lithium Battery【Software Update Version】(MPPT-60A)
it is ugly and only costs $101.00


My array of panels can produce 100V 32A and PowMr should be the secondary loader on a bank of 3 Pylontec US3000C 48V 10,5kWh

Color 60A MPPT 48V 36V 24V 12V
Brand PowMr
Voltage
Item Weight 1.3 Kilograms


About this item​


  • ❶【Software Update MPPT Design 】100% MPPT 60A solar charge controller Intelligent, Max efficiency ≥98.1%, PV utilization ≥99%. Built-in DSP controller with high performance Automatic battery voltage detection 12V/24V/36V/48V, Make sure batteries' voltage more than 12V to boost controller and make sure battery has enough power to Self-detection when connected to the controller.
  • ❷【Multiple Battery Adaptation】 Fit for USER(can be set Lithium, Lifepo4, Li(NiCoMn)O2)/Vented/Flooded/Sealed/Gel/NiCd battery. User programmable for absorption voltage/Floating voltage/Low voltage disconnect./Load Timer. Real-time energy recording. Two connectors for each pos and negs on solar and batteries connectors. copper wires:9AWG.
  • ❸【Full System Protection】Backlight LCD Dispaly PV voltage/output power/Battery voltage/charging current/working mode/Temperature. ☀ TROUBLESHOOTING function and LCD display and can help users not only check the whole system operating data and statuses but also quickly identify system faults and modify parameters.
  • ❹【Fan Heat Dissipation】Intelligence Fan-on temperature >45℃ and off < 40℃,Porous heat dissipation.and fan use BEARING technologies increase life UP TO 5000hrs in normal use. Suitable for RVs, Commercial Vehicles, Boats, Yachts, and Solar system.
  • ❺【Notiction】If you use sealed lead acid, vented gel battery, and etc, you donn't need to set any parameters, the controller can adjuste automaticly and work normally; but if you use lithium batteries, you need to properly adjuste parameters according to the actual voltage of the battery, becauese the voltage of lithium batteries is unstable, such as acid battery 12V is 12V, lithium battery 12V may be 11.1V or 14.8V.
 
Did you read the Amazon reviews on it yet by chance?

Also, check out this site for helping to calculate correct solar panel configuration:

(not sure how cold it gets over in your area, but should still use it to check, so you don't risk going over max PV input voltage rating of PV controller)
 
its never colder than plus 10 Celsius here and I am aware of the maximum voltage problem.
160 Volt input is good for 3 panels 72 cells in series, and nearly 60A should be produced by 4 Strings.
So theoretically ina a 3s4p configuratiion that would be >50 Amp >100V over 5000Watt, to good to be true!
 
It's a 60a controller so with a 48v battery you'll only get around 3000w not 5000w


Yeah, this is pasted right off that Amazon description (2800w hehe, so you were close):

"
Max PV Input Power
The maximum PV input power (The total power rated of PV can’t be over this watt that will break the controller ).

12V system (720W) / 24V system (1440W);
36V system (2100W) / 48V system (2800W);
"
 
well that still serves me pretty good to fill up my 3 pylontec 3000c battery bank ,
but why would multiple strings in parallel that exceed the 60A break the controller?
Doesn't it regulate its own current?
 
Plenty of info on the forum :


This thread sounds a bit scary :

 
Please note the maximum input voltage on the PowMr MPPT 30-60A is only 80 volts for a 12 volt battery system, and 105 volts for a 24 volt system.
 
Please note the maximum input voltage on the PowMr MPPT 30-60A is only 80 volts for a 12 volt battery system, and 105 volts for a 24 volt system.
That seems strange. Why would the input limit be different for different battery voltage?

If the components can handle 105v with a 24v system why can't they handle 105v with a 12v?
 
Read the instruction manual.
I saw the specs you are referring to but I am unable to find any explanation. I've never seen any other charge controller with different VOC limits depending on battery voltage. Trying to figure out if their specs are wrong or if there is something unique/strange about this specific controller.
 
I saw the specs you are referring to but I am unable to find any explanation. I've never seen any other charge controller with different VOC limits depending on battery voltage. Trying to figure out if their specs are wrong or if there is something unique/strange about this specific controller.
Make Sky Blue also has the same max PV voltage increase with battery voltage. I notice that they note that Voc should be in a range of 1.5 to 2 times the battery voltage for best efficiency.
 
Make Sky Blue also has the same max PV voltage increase with battery voltage. I notice that they note that Voc should be in a range of 1.5 to 2 times the battery voltage for best efficiency.
So you think it's just for best performance not a hard voc limit like with most controllers?

I was under the impression voc limits are tied to voltage limit of the various components in the circuit, which would be the same regardless of what battery voltage is being used, hence the confusion. But if it's just a suggestion to get best performance that would make sense.
 
That seems strange. Why would the input limit be different for different battery voltage?

If the components can handle 105v with a 24v system why can't they handle 105v with a 12v?
Perhaps there are amperage limits in play too?
The charging amps between these 2 scenarios are double (or half).
So charging 24V at 60A becomes charging 12V at 120A; the wiring and fusing required for that difference is significant.

I was under the impression voc limits are tied to voltage limit of the various components in the circuit,
The voltage limits are clearly component limits.
 
So you think it's just for best performance not a hard voc limit like with most controllers?

I was under the impression voc limits are tied to voltage limit of the various components in the circuit, which would be the same regardless of what battery voltage is being used, hence the confusion. But if it's just a suggestion to get best performance that would make sense.
Considering that these units have multiple battery voltage charging auto detection (12,24,36&48v) with highest allowed Voc for 48v battery being 160v It would be a reasonable guess that too high of a PV voltage for a particular battery voltage charging ends up with poor MPPT tracking.

So you might not destroy these types of SCC from high voltage until you exceed 160v. But you also might get lousy watt production if you exceed the 1.5 to 2 times battery voltage that is recommended.


ETA: As a additional thought occurs to me it is also a possibility that the internal circutry that converts PV to batt voltages simply can not do it if the voltage is too high.
 
Last edited:
I have experience with dozens of both PowMr and MakeSkyBlue SCCs and overall they have been reliable
  • I have not used them at over 70% of there rated current (so I can't say what would happen if I did)
  • I always purchase the 60 amp models
  • MakeSkyBlue has a better interface (you don't have to multiple the charge voltage by 4)
  • The efficiency I measured was 85-87% (ok for the price and seems typical even though everyone advertises 97-99%))
  • They have been running for up to three years now (I don't know of any failures not caused by shorting or incorrect configuration)
  • I add a piece of tape to the metal by the wire terminals (because they can get shorted out with a screwdriver while tightening down the wires hot)
  • I would not mount it where it could burn my house down if it did catch fire (same as all solar equipment)
  • I would not expect them to run continuously for more than a few years but time will tell...
 
I have experience with dozens of both PowMr and MakeSkyBlue SCCs and overall they have been reliable
  • I have not used them at over 70% of there rated current (so I can't say what would happen if I did)
  • I always purchase the 60 amp models
  • MakeSkyBlue has a better interface (you don't have to multiple the charge voltage by 4)
  • The efficiency I measured was 85-87% (ok for the price and seems typical even though everyone advertises 97-99%))
  • They have been running for up to three years now (I don't know of any failures not caused by shorting or incorrect configuration)
  • I add a piece of tape to the metal by the wire terminals (because they can get shorted out with a screwdriver while tightening down the wires hot)
  • I would not mount it where it could burn my house down if it did catch fire (same as all solar equipment)
  • I would not expect them to run continuously for more than a few years but time will tell...
The price of these PowerMr MPPTs is unbelievable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TWK76X...RJ&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWw

$106 for 60A or $220 for 100A.

I’ve got a 60A Epever MPPT I’ve been very happy with but it costs over twice this much: https://www.amazon.com/EPEVER-Contr...t=&hvlocphy=9032082&hvtargid=pla-872104784298

One of the features I like about the Epever AN Series is their ability to communicate over and be configured over RS485 - do these PowerMr MPPTs include a data communication channel of some kind and is it based on an open standard like Midbus or proprietary / closed?

I’m going to need a second MPPT able to handle ~1600W / 60A of peak charging power and your experience with your PowerMr is causing me to consider trying them for the ~56% savings…
 
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