diy solar

diy solar

240 split phase vs 230v European inverter and US split phase devices

My 240v only loads are
3x heat pumps
Water heater
Well pump

And a 5kw 230v inverter would run all my heat pumps
I want to run my 240v us mini splits by themselves off grid,alone, what inverter did you use?
 
I want to run my 240v us mini splits by themselves off grid,alone, what inverter did you use?
Just double check, there are a few 240vac split-phase mini-splits that also use 120 vac to run their electronics power supply and relays like reversing valve. If it has a neutral wire connection it is a sign it also requires 120vac.
 
Just double check, there are a few 240vac split-phase mini-splits that also use 120 vac to run their electronics power supply and relays like reversing valve. If it has a neutral wire connection it is a sign it also requires 120vac.
The mini splits I use are Mr cool and home Depot types and there wiring is l1 ,l2, G no neutral connection, I just don't know if l1 and l2 need to be 180 degrees opposite phase wave or if that even matters on minisplits
 
I know of no air conditioners that use 120/240 volts. I saw some window units from the 60s that did, but I don't think that's what we're talking about here.

In an off grid setup, using a 230 volt L-N inverter and bonding the N to ground would work just fine for any 240 V-only appliances. But if you feed it with gride 240, you're most likely going to have a problem, depending on how the input connects to the output.
I’m working on an off grid setup for electrical equipment that runs solely on 240v. From what I’ve garnered I would have the L and N from the EU 230vac inverter into a 240v circuit breaker and bond N and G at the main panel?
 
I’m working on an off grid setup for electrical equipment that runs solely on 240v. From what I’ve garnered I would have the L and N from the EU 230vac inverter into a 240v circuit breaker and bond N and G at the main panel?
Yes, unless the N and G are bonded in the inverter. At any rate, you're going to have an odd ball system. You will have to use breakers with a "straight rating" of 240 volts. Your average run of the mill breaker has a rating of 120/240, which means that it is intended for use on a system with a maximum of 120 volts to ground. Your system will have a voltage of 240 to ground and therefore a standard breaker won't work.
 
I wonder if it’s better to do straight 240 or just use Euro-style breakers and consumer units.

Assuming using standard North America breakers… are you supposed to use single pole breakers?
 
On a breaker panel busbar, it would have to be single pole.
Many Square D QO breakers are only 120V per pole. The 2-pole 120/240V breakers are 120V per pole. The 3-pole breakers are all 277V, I think and some model number single pole and 2-pole breakers are.

DIN rail, many are. Like the Midnight CBI and Carling breakers. Some may have a Midnight sticker or web site listing that giving lower voltage, but the manufacturer sticker with part number and voltage is underneath.
 
I wonder if it’s better to do straight 240 or just use Euro-style breakers and consumer units.

Assuming using standard North America breakers… are you supposed to use single pole breakers?

On a breaker panel busbar, it would have to be single pole.
Many Square D QO breakers are only 120V per pole. The 2-pole 120/240V breakers are 120V per pole. The 3-pole breakers are all 277V, I think and some model number single pole and 2-pole breakers are.

DIN rail, many are. Like the Midnight CBI and Carling breakers. Some may have a Midnight sticker or web site listing that giving lower voltage, but the manufacturer sticker with part number and voltage is underneath.
There is no reason you couldn't use a double pole breaker and open the neutral with the hot. It just has to be a straight 240 volt breaker.
 
There is no reason you couldn't use a double pole breaker and open the neutral with the hot. It just has to be a straight 240 volt breaker.

If a double-pole breaker, it needs to be one where each pole individually is rated to 240V.

If you have 240V Line and 0V Neutral, two ganged 120V poles in series (one in Line, one in Neutral) will trip for an overload just fine.

However, if Line shorts to Ground (which is bonded to Neutral somewhere, only the pole on 240V line is available to break the arc. Because it is only rated for 120V (per pole), expect it to burn and fail to interrupt the arc.

If you are able to wire both 120V poles in series to interrupt Line, rather than having one open Neutral, then it would work.
 
If a double-pole breaker, it needs to be one where each pole individually is rated to 240V.

If you have 240V Line and 0V Neutral, two ganged 120V poles in series (one in Line, one in Neutral) will trip for an overload just fine.

However, if Line shorts to Ground (which is bonded to Neutral somewhere, only the pole on 240V line is available to break the arc. Because it is only rated for 120V (per pole), expect it to burn and fail to interrupt the arc.

If you are able to wire both 120V poles in series to interrupt Line, rather than having one open Neutral, then it would work.
Right, that's what's called a straight rated breaker, a breaker with a 240 volt only rating. They exist, you just have to find them.
 
QO has them for 3-phase panels, which often carry 277V (Hmm, finding 240V not 277/480V). Same form factor as the split-phase panels. Schneider's website details ratings of the different models.

240V:


240V:


I think these were the Midnight breakers that said 120/240V but were actually CBI breakers rated 277V


These I think are from Carling and are sold by Midnight as 277V, but are only "supplementary protectors", which may mean they don't provide a full 1" of isolation between input and output, possibly other differences.


 
QO has them for 3-phase panels, which often carry 277V (Hmm, finding 240V not 277/480V). Same form factor as the split-phase panels. Schneider's website details ratings of the different models.

240V:


240V:


I think these were the Midnight breakers that said 120/240V but were actually CBI breakers rated 277V


These I think are from Carling and are sold by Midnight as 277V, but are only "supplementary protectors", which may mean they don't provide a full 1" of isolation between input and output, possibly other differences.


Thanks for the information. Looks like Midnight Solar has great options.

This would also be a straight 240v breaker?
100A, 240V AC, 60V DC, 1 Pole, DIN Rail Mount Miniature Circuit Breaker, Trip Curve: C, UL1077 https://a.co/d/aPSy950

Trying to also conceptually understand why someone would use a DIN rail vs main panel box?

Do DIN rails have current ratings like a main panel box?

Are there applications where one would prefer one over the other?
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the information. Looks like Midnight Solar has great options.

This would also be a straight 240v breaker?

Yes.

Note that it is a UL 1077 "Supplementary Protector", not a UL 489 "Breaker", therefore not an isolating device that should be used for safety between utility grid and humans working on wiring.

Not that you would normally notice any difference. Only if there was a transient on the grid maybe?

100A, 240V AC, 60V DC, 1 Pole, DIN Rail Mount Miniature Circuit Breaker, Trip Curve: C, UL1077 https://a.co/d/aPSy950

Curve C. Note there are different curves, overload amount and time before trip.

Trying to also conceptually understand why someone would use a DIN rail vs main panel box?

Do DIN rails have current ratings like a main panel box?

Are there applications where one would prefer one over the other?

DIN rails are normally not current-carrying components, so wouldn't have ratings. Except I see them grounded by green wire connectors; maybe that is only to ground the box, not as a ground conductor.

There are a bunch of parts available DIN rail including relays, power supplies, fuse holders, etc. so it allows modular design of various functions.
If you want a busbar, that is an extra part mounted on the breakers, e.g. for a combiner.

I would choose based on what parts/functions I wanted. I'm using QO breaker panels exclusively, except I have DIN rail to hold load-shed relays and then put in Midnight magnetic-hydraulic breakers after finding paralleled QO breakers didn't share current evenly. Also, I can cut and mount a DIN rail where it fits, like inside a disconnect switch.
 
If I wanted an offgrid 240v breaker panel ONLY (in U.S.) for my two mini splits and well pump which are all two ungrounded conductors and a ground wire. In this example, the panel will be fed from a Victron EU 230/240v inverter and never connected to grid AC IN. 1) would this work and 2) where would the grounding take place?
 
If I wanted an offgrid 240v breaker panel ONLY (in U.S.) for my two mini splits and well pump which are all two ungrounded conductors and a ground wire. In this example, the panel will be fed from a Victron EU 230/240v inverter and never connected to grid AC IN. 1) would this work and 2) where would the grounding take place?
1) It would work
2) The N output would be grounded

This leads to the same problem discussed above: Technically, the breakers used would need to be straight rated for 240 volts instead of slash rated 120/240. I suppose a way around this would be to use fuses instead of breakers.
 
The reason why straight rated breakers are required by code is due to the available fault current from the grid during an asymmetrical fault, that is, a fault from line to ground. I suppose that an off grid inverter would never be able to provide those kinds of fault currents so a standard slash rated breaker will probably be fine. But the code doesn't make an exception for the power source.

If it were me, I'd probably just use regular breakers, but I'm not offering that as advice because it is a technical code violation.
 
Back
Top