grizzzman
Photon Vampire
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2019
- Messages
- 2,757
Well... They say we lack minerals in our diet so.......If you lick the bus bars you can taste the purity of the tinning
Well... They say we lack minerals in our diet so.......If you lick the bus bars you can taste the purity of the tinning
I do not know if it matters to you but you can drill out the power in terminals and direct mount the switch and shunt. less connections is always better.
Misunderestimated! Lmao I love that word.You misunderestimated.
A few other comments haven't aged well either, including one asking how many lifetimes would it take for a Victron 24v system to pay for itself.
The answer is: a couple years. For my extremely limited demand a Phoenix 24/1200 for around $300 has 900w and a long surge to 1500w. A Victron 100/30 SCC on eBay is $130. So about the price of a generic low end AIO with admittedly less solar charging available though I can't imagine the average 3000w AIO user utilizing 4000w of input. But this is about my usage for which this is totally adequate. The generics also reportedly use at least 20% of available power to run themselves while the Victron uses about 11%.
Multiplus 3000w costs around $1200, comparing favorably with a Midnite Solar 3000w rebadged Chinese higher-than-low-range generic at $800, though admittedly without a SCC.
Given all the horror stories about AIO including people buying two for when the inevitable failure happens, Victron looks well positioned at not insurmountable price difference.
Thanks. These ones are super recessed so that's not possible.
Where did you get the copper stubbies?
My Klein 5 in 1 had no issues removing the screws. I just apply twice the downward pressure via rotational to keep it from camming out.Thanks. These ones are super recessed so that's not possible.
Where did you get the copper stubbies?
I just drilled out the bus bar for the blue seas diameter 3/8. Gonna have to bore it a bit more for the m10 of the shunt.
My premium harbor freight interchangeable just squeezed in there. A short stubby one prob wouldn't.Just a regular #1 Philips screwdriver for all the screws.
You'll have a hard time getting in the recess if using in one that has interchangeable bits as the shaft will be too large of a diameter to go down into the hole.
That's what I did but the Lynx Power In requires a shim behind it so that both the shunt and Powerin can be mounted flush to the wall/board. I used a piece of fibre board.I do not know if it matters to you but you can drill out the power in terminals and direct mount the switch and shunt. less connections is always better.
Yes. I used a longer bolt and washers to shim. but I also turned my power in into a distributor less coms and LED'sThat's what I did but the Lynx Power In requires a shim behind it so that both the shunt and Powerin can be mounted flush to the wall/board. I used a piece of fibre board.
Also the shunt bolt is a little short to be able to use both a washer and lock washer due to the thickness of the busbar. So you either need a longer bolt or as I did, lose the lock washer, which perhaps isn't ideal. A longer bolt would be better. I don't know the specs of the bolt.
Current Connected sells them for $128 and much less risky to purchase from
Edit: at least if you are in the USA that would be better option then relying on eBay.
I placed an order with current connected on Feb 10 (Saturday so weekend, and late at night). It was shipped Monday and arrived at my us address today.
Canāt say enough good things about them! My sok rack battery was also purchased from them. Their,customer service canāt be beat
Iāll have to post a picture of our new āDoesnāt suckā wall. Letās just say I went crazy with a stapler.It's like I always say...
Search results for query: "doesn't suck"
diysolarforum.com
@HighTechLab doesn't suck!
It's like I always say...
Search results for query: "doesn't suck"
diysolarforum.com
@HighTechLab doesn't suck!