diy solar

diy solar

Victron is Over-priced Eurotrash. Why would anybody buy Victron over an AiO?

You misunderestimated.
A few other comments haven't aged well either, including one asking how many lifetimes would it take for a Victron 24v system to pay for itself.

The answer is: a couple years. For my extremely limited demand a Phoenix 24/1200 for around $300 has 900w and a long surge to 1500w. A Victron 100/30 SCC on eBay is $130. So about the price of a generic low end AIO with admittedly less solar charging available though I can't imagine the average 3000w AIO user utilizing 4000w of input. But this is about my usage for which this is totally adequate. The generics also reportedly use at least 20% of available power to run themselves while the Victron uses about 11%.

Multiplus 3000w costs around $1200, comparing favorably with a Midnite Solar 3000w rebadged Chinese higher-than-low-range generic at $800, though admittedly without a SCC.

Given all the horror stories about AIO including people buying two for when the inevitable failure happens, Victron looks well positioned at not insurmountable price difference.
Misunderestimated! Lmao šŸ¤£ I love that word.

I said here that I thought victron wouldn't survive if they didn't lower their prices. Now they've done that i think one can make a strong case for them.
 
Thanks. These ones are super recessed so that's not possible.

If it is recessed that deep to tell, just try sizes, and rotate back and forth lightly, to get a feel for how much slack is in the fit, find the one that has least slop. And if I think the engagement is questionable, push firmly (maintain good pressure the whole time you're applying torque) as you crack it loose so it doesn't have as good of chance at slipping/stripping. See if you can just get at least one screw out first so it is in the open, then you can check and confirm driver fit before doing all the other screws.
 
Old Honda motorcycles came with Philips (maybe Reed & Prince) screws on the case, and screwdriver would cam out.
Impact screw driver was the only way to remove them.

1708108195398.png

Very convenient upgrade is socket head cap screws. These days, also consider Torx.

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Just a regular #1 Philips screwdriver for all the screws.

You'll have a hard time getting in the recess if using in one that has interchangeable bits as the shaft will be too large of a diameter to go down into the hole.
 
Where did you get the copper stubbies?

I just drilled out the bus bar for the blue seas diameter 3/8. Gonna have to bore it a bit more for the m10 of the shunt.
 
Just a regular #1 Philips screwdriver for all the screws.

You'll have a hard time getting in the recess if using in one that has interchangeable bits as the shaft will be too large of a diameter to go down into the hole.
My premium harbor freight interchangeable just squeezed in there. A short stubby one prob wouldn't.
 
I do not know if it matters to you but you can drill out the power in terminals and direct mount the switch and shunt. less connections is always better.
That's what I did but the Lynx Power In requires a shim behind it so that both the shunt and Powerin can be mounted flush to the wall/board. I used a piece of fibre board.

7xDE2Qu.jpg


Also the shunt bolt is a little short to be able to use both a washer and lock washer due to the thickness of the busbar. So you either need a longer bolt or as I did, lose the lock washer, which perhaps isn't ideal. A longer bolt would be better. I don't know the specs of the bolt.
 
That's what I did but the Lynx Power In requires a shim behind it so that both the shunt and Powerin can be mounted flush to the wall/board. I used a piece of fibre board.

7xDE2Qu.jpg


Also the shunt bolt is a little short to be able to use both a washer and lock washer due to the thickness of the busbar. So you either need a longer bolt or as I did, lose the lock washer, which perhaps isn't ideal. A longer bolt would be better. I don't know the specs of the bolt.
Yes. I used a longer bolt and washers to shim. but I also turned my power in into a distributor less coms and LED's
 
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Current Connected sells them for $128 and much less risky to purchase from ;)
Edit: at least if you are in the USA that would be better option then relying on eBay.

I placed an order with current connected on Feb 10 (Saturday so weekend, and late at night). It was shipped Monday and arrived at my us address today.

Canā€™t say enough good things about them! My sok rack battery was also purchased from them. Their,customer service canā€™t be beat
 
I placed an order with current connected on Feb 10 (Saturday so weekend, and late at night). It was shipped Monday and arrived at my us address today.

Canā€™t say enough good things about them! My sok rack battery was also purchased from them. Their,customer service canā€™t be beat

It's like I always say...


@HighTechLab doesn't suck!
 
What a thread...

But I can sort of relate. Recently I had got a 100/20 and the terminal connectors were god-awful! I immediately went back to my aging PWM controllers since they use ring terminals for their connectors. While Victron has some nice and flashy devices, cheap terminal connectors is just a spark or fire waiting to happen.
 
Video demonstrating Pluck Of Victron. 4 minute duration. I use the parabolic personal heater for maybe 10 minutes or more in the cloudy cold mornings. We have cooked on medium high numerous dishes with that discontinued induction cooktop with the ~55VA standby consumption.

Victron 24V 1200VA Inverter Induction Cooktop (With Titanium Pot) And Parabolic Personal Heater
 
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One thing. I bet the guys that designed the Pontiac Aztek get together every now and again and probably have a few and mention, ā€œYeah, we could have done betterā€¦ā€ I wonder if they guys that designed the VeDirect cable connector conclude they could have made that assembly more robust, as itā€™s pretty much trash. One of the worst electronic connectors Iā€™ve ever had to use. It makes pretty much every USB connector ever, look nukeproof in comparison.
 
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