timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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If parallel batteries. The only way to truly protect the wire, is from both ends.
MRBF without fuse holder
- Thread starter Dadoftheturkeykids
- Start date
Dadoftheturkeykids
New Member
Thanks y'all, that clarifies why we should use the fuse holder. I can understand now that the current would just flow through the stud instead of flowing through the fuse in a catastrophic event.. It does make me wonder though, how that little bit of plastic prevents an arc from jumping from the base to the stud.
Dadoftheturkeykids
New Member
That makes sense, but that's a lot of extra contact points. But if battery A has fuse and battery B has fuse. Wouldn't that essentially be just like a fuse on both ends?
A(fuse)>>bussbar<<(fuse)B
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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With two, yes. All wiring would match the total available current.
But three or more, no.
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
What we worked out in your other thread was to fuse your 4 batteries at the bus bar and depend on the BMS to stop current at the battery. Or fuse at both ends.
The fuse is silver compound filament over ceremic. It isn't a little piece of plastic. The AIC is around 10,000 amps. The case is the only part that is plastic.
In the real Eaton (blue seas relabels these) fuse holders the insulator material is more like phenolic or bakalite type material.
The fuse is silver compound filament over ceremic. It isn't a little piece of plastic. The AIC is around 10,000 amps. The case is the only part that is plastic.
In the real Eaton (blue seas relabels these) fuse holders the insulator material is more like phenolic or bakalite type material.
Dadoftheturkeykids
New Member
So this is improper? It looks to me that all wires are protected.
A(fuse)>>b<<(fuse)B
u
s
C(fuse)>>s<<(fuse)D
b
a
E(fuse)>>r
Oh my, I might as well just start linking fuse together for conductor at this point.
A(fuse)>>(fuse)b(fuse)<<(fuse)B
u
s
C(fuse)>>(fuse)s(fuse)<<(fuse)D
b
a
E(fuse)>>(fuse)r
That's 20 contact points in fuses alone
Dadoftheturkeykids
New Member
Sorry I guess my spacing for the vertical "bussbar" got deleted upon posting
Dadoftheturkeykids
New Member
That is the bit of plastic I was referring to. Just that little bit there on the bottom of the post insulates the current from the base metal bar to the post
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
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Voltage is low enough not to jump a gap and start current flowing.
Current is high enough that if an arc was drawn, it could keep flowing.
I have trouble getting my stick welder started, fuses to workpiece or nothing happens.
But once I draw an arc it continues over a considerable gap. That's 80Vrms 125A.
Whatever is inside the fuse is sufficient to extinguish the arc.
"Interrupt Rating :10000 AMP @ 14Vdc 5000 AMP @ 32Vdc 2000 AMP @ 58Vdc"
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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I can't seem to follow this. Maybe it's too close to my bedtime. lolSo this is improper? It looks to me that all wires are protected.
A(fuse)>>b<<(fuse)B
u
s
C(fuse)>>s<<(fuse)D
b
a
E(fuse)>>r
Oh my, I might as well just start linking fuse together for conductor at this point.
A(fuse)>>(fuse)b(fuse)<<(fuse)B
u
s
C(fuse)>>(fuse)s(fuse)<<(fuse)D
b
a
E(fuse)>>(fuse)r
That's 20 contact points in fuses alone
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
The cheaper knock offs use plain ABS plastic or cheaper. That has a much lower melting point than the phenolic or bakealite and in a lot of cases it is colored with carbon so it will conduct at higher voltages. Even at 48v or less there is some small leakage current that can cause minor heating over time.
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