diy solar

diy solar

SRNE 12kW IP65 HES and 10kW ASP

No, one is hybrid, the other is off grid.


Hybrid will require different hardware than off grid. You can not compare the 2.
Not sure would say they are completely different. 😁 I’d bet they are probably more similar then not for boards inside… be nice to see break down in format like below. Definitely different with IP casing and a difference with breakers. Sol-Ark like but way cheaper in price. They sent me the info for the 12kw SEI- versions only …. 🙂↕️. Never seen an ASP version in 12kW. So you are correct there. 😁☑️😎 i did find SRNE 10kw ASP for as little as $800-$900 but who knows did not contact. Figure it was cheese to draw me in. 😂😁 Was looking for Deye .
…. In this -12kw pdf it sources parts, test data, schematics and so on to including voltage testing per UL requirements. I can’t get the complete pdf to link or share it from their cloud server. They have it data protected. Got some pictures from it.

Wish we had a local USA Vendor like they had advertised…. On Alibaba for it being In Las Vegas. They said that place -USA warehouse was just batteries when asked repeatedly….. .😂🎶 another bait.

Wish they had sent the SEI-10kw and ASP-10kW spec test data like this too. These SRI look very decent for the money.

Samples from the 59 page SEI-12kw document. This is like an Engineering report where they included test voltages and part sourcing. Shame can’t get pdf off their cloud server.

Edit It is SEI not SRI
 

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Oh- 12k's x 2 would be ideal ...don't spend any money...dsam....be strong...
These would be way cheaper then sol-ark or midnite rosie. The DEYE bait and switch irks me. These products have their own merits to stand on and prices seem great. Not sure why they are doing business practices with advertising….on Alibaba.

Been having good experience on Aliexpress so far. Hope it maintains. Alibaba just does weird stuff
 

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So...funny things that can happen...sigh... went to connect new batteries and one of the terminals just falls off. All the rest of them were fine.
Any one out there had that happen to them? Just curious...
View attachment 220928
Place called Battery Plus can weld that back on for you. Have had them make up battery packs for things in the past. Might try them. They had local stores in some places. At least it didn’t come loose under load. I’d wiggle all of them. Just know With aluminum the weld joint is the weakest point. Different with steel where material in weld might be strongest point. Look for a place like Batteries Plus they should be able to weld that up.

I worry with time the steel stud inserts with normal battery process will do a weird dissimilar metal reaction. Time will tell.
Mine are like these.
IMG_6893.jpeg
 
I needed to get my 4 poles in, as my daughter is here from Texas to help. We keep getting non stop rain here. I would auger in the hole at 6 foot deep, then we would have to keep a shop vac sucking the constant water from flooding the hole. I did a test the day before and it got 2 feet of water in just a few minutes. Next morning the hole was full with water to almost the top. Usually by now we would be in a more dry time of the year, but not this year.
I waited 2 months before I could get this done due to weather. I did it last weekend and it did drizzle Saturday while I was drilling, then it cleared and the sun came out. I pumped water right away Monday morning and again right before the redi mix truck arrived.

I started last Friday afternoon, worked all day Saturday on it and all but 2 hours on Sunday to get it ready. Had to stop and go to nephew's high school grad party. It was getting close to dark before finishing conduit runs and making a pair of forms to pour some heat pump ground mount pads.

June always seems wet and humid. I remember in years past that one of my busiest times of the year for working on air conditioning was June. July just gets plain hot with less rain. August less rain.

The single pole mount is near the bottom of the hill, my guess is I won't drill and set it until August unless we get a nice long dry spell. I'm glad to finally have the pole installed, I can work at my leisure on the mount.
 
I waited 2 months before I could get this done due to weather. I did it last weekend and it did drizzle Saturday while I was drilling, then it cleared and the sun came out. I pumped water right away Monday morning and again right before the redi mix truck arrived.

I started last Friday afternoon, worked all day Saturday on it and all but 2 hours on Sunday to get it ready. Had to stop and go to nephew's high school grad party. It was getting close to dark before finishing conduit runs and making a pair of forms to pour some heat pump ground mount pads.

June always seems wet and humid. I remember in years past that one of my busiest times of the year for working on air conditioning was June. July just gets plain hot with less rain. August less rain.

The single pole mount is near the bottom of the hill, my guess is I won't drill and set it until August unless we get a nice long dry spell. I'm glad to finally have the pole installed, I can work at my leisure on the mount.
1000013274.jpg
Here is a picture of my test hole 12 hours after digging it, lol. Sometimes you just have to get things done when you can. With my daughter being here we just had to get it done.

We spent the past few days removing 42 panels from one end of my ground mount and putting new ones up in their place. Now we have to take those 42 panels we removed and re install them on the new addition to my ground mount. I decide it would look better with matching panels all in the same area. Man it is a lot of work! I don't want to even think how many times I climbed the various size ladders to do all this.
 
I needed to get my 4 poles in, as my daughter is here from Texas to help. We keep getting non stop rain here. I would auger in the hole at 6 foot deep, then we would have to keep a shop vac sucking the constant water from flooding the hole. I did a test the day before and it got 2 feet of water in just a few minutes. Next morning the hole was full with water to almost the top. Usually by now we would be in a more dry time of the year, but not this year.
just dump concrete in it and it'll displace the water. We do it at the bottom of the ocean as well lmao
 
Very nice Ground mount - I am working on the plans for my own, and since we share similar winter weather - can I ask how tall are the verticals in your ground mount array? look to be about 8feet above grade?
They are between 6 foot and 8 foot, all depends on grade of the land. My array is pushing 300'.
 
Place called Battery Plus can weld that back on for you. Have had them make up battery packs for things in the past. Might try them. They had local stores in some places. At least it didn’t come loose under load. I’d wiggle all of them. Just know With aluminum the weld joint is the weakest point. Different with steel where material in weld might be strongest point. Look for a place like Batteries Plus they should be able to weld that up.

I worry with time the steel stud inserts with normal battery process will do a weird dissimilar metal reaction. Time will tell.
Mine are like these.
View attachment 221993
You shouldn't have an issue with dissimilar metals, unless you get the batteries wet (where they remain wet for an extended period of time) or they are constantly exposed to very high humidity... other then that I wouldn't worry about it.

I called every welding shop in my city to see if anyone could laser weld it back on and as soon as I mentioned that it was on a lithium battery the only answers I got after that were "NO" or "HELL NO". Only one shop was willitg to attempt to TIG weld it, without success. Attempting a single tack weld created too much heat, was starting to melt the black plastic cover by the battery post so they stopped to prevent further damaging it. BTW, the seller was willing to pay for the welding job on warranty, unfortunately no success. Thus a new replacment is on the way....by boat of course...sigh...hurry up and wait yet again. At least it's covered by the warranty.
 
You shouldn't have an issue with dissimilar metals, unless you get the batteries wet (where they remain wet for an extended period of time) or they are constantly exposed to very high humidity... other then that I wouldn't worry about it.

I called every welding shop in my city to see if anyone could laser weld it back on and as soon as I mentioned that it was on a lithium battery the only answers I got after that were "NO" or "HELL NO". Only one shop was willitg to attempt to TIG weld it, without success. Attempting a single tack weld created too much heat, was starting to melt the black plastic cover by the battery post so they stopped to prevent further damaging it. BTW, the seller was willing to pay for the welding job on warranty, unfortunately no success. Thus a new replacment is on the way....by boat of course...sigh...hurry up and wait yet again. At least it's covered by the warranty.
Steel and aluminum do not get along. Usually galvanic corrosion. In aviation we went to great lengths to try separate them - dissimilar metals. Paints like zinc chromates, pressure sensitive tapes, and other coatings. Cadmium plating. The studs are most likely cadmium plated just as all steel should be when used in electrical clamping applications. The current carrying surface is that small area of aluminum on the battery…kind of wild thinking about that and some batteries should be limited for current because of that. Rut ro. The cadmium plate stud is just basically clamp pressure force the cadmium is however far superior to raw steel. Black steel bolts rust up when used with electrical then get loose.

I am 100% positive tig was the wrong process. They are indeed laser welded as you mentioned. Some resistance type welding is used for joining cells. I am amazed someone tried to tig it. 😁👀🙈 I’d like to have watched that from safety of a video. 😁


Somewhere on this forum read article on drilling and tapping terminals. The torques on these terminals are real light - fragile. I read somewhere no more then 4- 7 Nm….

IMG_6903.png

.
IMG_6904.jpeg
IMG_6905.jpeg


This tiny weld is your cross sectional. Hmmmm …. Ppl will probably get upset now. Why stay off these forums. Sorry. Some of these terminal types it is suggested keep battery currents low. Shhhsss my welded contact is probably not much better. Like to see one removed to verify. My batteries are intended for capacity vs higher current draw. When first seen that thought bolt might have bottomed out. But assumed it is still tight to bus bar. The D shown in picture above might be best process. Hmmm I wonder how well my studs are laser welded on….and how much contact area…. 👀😁 FUN. i would like to have seen more contact weld on battery side. Bad enough the terminal to bus bar area is small. Hmmm…… Q.C.


IMG_6906.jpeg
 
Steel and aluminum do not get along. Usually galvanic corrosion. In aviation we went to great lengths to try separate them - dissimilar metals. Paints like zinc chromates, pressure sensitive tapes, and other coatings. Cadmium plating. The studs are most likely cadmium plated just as all steel should be when used in electrical clamping applications. The current carrying surface is that small area of aluminum on the battery…kind of wild thinking about that and some batteries should be limited for current because of that. Rut ro. The cadmium plate stud is just basically clamp pressure force the cadmium is however far superior to raw steel. Black steel bolts rust up when used with electrical then get loose.

I am 100% positive tig was the wrong process. They are indeed laser welded as you mentioned. Some resistance type welding is used for joining cells. I am amazed someone tried to tig it. 😁👀🙈 I’d like to have watched that from safety of a video. 😁


Somewhere on this forum read article on drilling and tapping terminals. The torques on these terminals are real light - fragile. I read somewhere no more then 4- 7 Nm….

View attachment 222193

.
View attachment 222194
View attachment 222195


This tiny weld is your cross sectional. Hmmmm …. Ppl will probably get upset now. Why stay off these forums. Sorry. Some of these terminal types it is suggested keep battery currents low. Shhhsss my welded contact is probably not much better. Like to see one removed to verify. My batteries are intended for capacity vs higher current draw. When first seen that thought bolt might have bottomed out. But assumed it is still tight to bus bar. The D shown in picture above might be best process. Hmmm I wonder how well my studs are laser welded on….and how much contact area…. 👀😁 FUN. i would like to have seen more contact weld on battery side. Bad enough the terminal to bus bar area is small. Hmmm…… Q.C.


View attachment 222196
Great info. Thank you for that.

I agree with you that TIG was wrong process, but they were only ones willing to at least try something.
You can clearly see in my picture that the weld did not have good penetration and thus didn' bond well. I now worry about and question the quality and strength of all the other battery posts.
The specs I found specified 3.7 - 27 N-m for M6 bolts depending on their length.
I used a torque wrench set to 5 n-m when I was assembling the pack and the post let go before my torque wrench clicked... I think I'll reset it to 4 N-m when I reinstall it again, just to be on the safe side.

Maybe I should invest in a laser beam welder and start my own battery repair business locally....:unsure:... 💲💲💲
 
At least they offered to try,
I would think a 1/16 rod and low setting plus some kind of heat sink would have allowed the TIG to work, I am just learning TIG this year so I am no expert.
Laser welding equipment is pretty expensive - there must be a dedicated laser welder just for batteries out there somewhere - likely buying a new cell would be cheaper though!
If I remember you said the supplier is sending a replacement for free, but will take time to get,
I never did it myself, but many of the members here say they order cells in sets of 17 so they have a spare...maybe a good idea after all.
 
I'm confident I would have saved hours if I bought new steel instead of repurposing and using leftover stuff, but what fun is that...
Only boo boo was one blown up cut off wheel, oops, it's been a long time since I've done that.

My welds aren't pretty but they are strong, couldn't get the rods dialed in so I used wire. I must say the little Yes Welder Flux-135 is impressive and the ASF didn't care it was powering it.

It will hold 6 16s packs, 4 will be going on now and 1 or 2 by fall / winter.

Hopefully tomorrow the ASPs are online.
It's supposed to be a gorgeous day, must not get sidetracked ... Lol
 

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I'm confident I would have saved hours if I bought new steel instead of repurposing and using leftover stuff, but what fun is that...
Only boo boo was one blown up cut off wheel, oops, it's been a long time since I've done that.

My welds aren't pretty but they are strong, couldn't get the rods dialed in so I used wire. I must say the little Yes Welder Flux-135 is impressive and the ASF didn't care it was powering it.

It will hold 6 16s packs, 4 will be going on now and 1 or 2 by fall / winter.

Hopefully tomorrow the ASPs are online.
It's supposed to be a gorgeous day, must not get sidetracked ... Lol
Is that a stitch? Or just a beauty mark? Haha

I like the YES welders and products. One of the best bang for Bucks out there. Ive got a plasma cutter from them and a welding helmet.
Their welding helmet seems as good as my old miller helmet. Lot cheaper.
I think all diy should learn trades and welding is one of them.. Recycling and repurposing is key to diy and saving money. Good in all aspects.
Looks good.

Most welders swapped over from heavy transformers to inverters many years ago. YES makes very affordable products. Perfect for DIY.

I still prefer my old Lincoln 175 transformer mig. 😁😂👀 i used a 120vac mig to rework a bunch of cars….. i preferred the 120 volt migs for real thin automotive not so great thin metals with 75/25 gas. Lot of tack stitch welding. Grinding.

Best to use descent quality wheels and don’t cut all kinds of material with them. Stick to one metal type. Soft metals will clog them up then when use with hard metals will pop. Grinding stones -wheels are bad for that too. Most industry will mark big grinding wheels for material types for permanent placement grinders there are signs. Always stand to side as wheel is spinning up with stone grinders The Grinders are a must for cleaning up welds and preparing joints to be welded.

With cut off disc you can’t hog anything if you want them to last….best to walk them not do complete cut through. There was old youtube video where guy got a lot less cuts by going through - hogging vs skim cutting it slowly. He literally got 2x-4x service life out of quality disc. Norton were good. Good grinding wheels - disc are a must.

Glad you are alright. Hogging a full cut makes them pop with to many forces. The guards help to contain the wheels a must. Harder to see and more cumbersome but there for a reason - protect us. Goggles and safety glasses - full shields ….gloves . Keep gloves away from anything rotating will grab them. .

Small mini paint gun, air compressor, and good 2 part epoxy primer paint give best results. Tough paint. Wear good filter mask. More trouble but can get all of them cheap and once setup good for life too. Tractor paints with a hardener additive are good too. Painting gives it that finished new look. Powder coating is even better. 😁

Again glad you are okay. Looks good. Load test it. 😁🤪
 
For the past few months I've been running an EG4 6000XP, which has been very reliable except for one problem that EG4 could not resolve (tendency to trip ground fault on my ClipperCreek EVSE when switching from grid bypass to inverter output). I've been following @42OhmsPA with his experience with ASF and the ASP. If not for the detailed info on the purchase experience with Alibaba and Borick being legitimate seller, I would have never ordered one (never bought anything from Alibaba before), nor would I have known that contacting Borick directly gets better price, nor would I have known to request DDP air freight. Thanks!

Borick was very responsive and took initiative to ask about my EVSE model/manual and the specific fault. To their credit they were forthright (expressed surprised that the problem occurred with the 6000XP, thought that the ASP's auto N-PE bond might help but weren't confident, let me know that I wouldn't be able to return the unit just because it doesn't resolve the problem with my EVSE). I decided to take the risk and order. From payment to delivery was 6 days, and from shipment to delivery was only one day (!).

The physical mounting was easier with the ASP because the two top mounting holes allowed the screws to be put in first and then the unit just could be hanged on the screws. The 6000XP's mounting bracket is slightly offset from the back of the unit, resulting in a little airgap behind the unit, which is a nice touch.

The ASP has built-in breaker for only AC input; the 6000XP's built-in PV cut-off switch and battery/gen/output breakers and neutral/ground bars are nice and tidy. But I think the worst part about the ASP is the difficulty of installing the AC input/output wires. Despite the manual stating that 6AWG wires are supported, it was much, much harder installing the AC input/output wires. The space for the wire diameter is smaller (challenging to insert even under ideal condition), the insertion points are near the back of the unit, the vertical space is tighter, making it really difficult with the stiffness of 6AWG wires. I ended up unscrewing the AC input/output board to get better angle for wire insertion, but even then it took much longer than expected. Even after the wires are inserted, forcing the board back to the original position was challenging (thought maybe the board would break).

The good news is that with the auto N-PE bond enabled, the ASP is able to switch between inverter output mode to grid bypass mode and back without tripping fault on my EVSE (if auto N-PE bonding is disabled, then the EVSE is in continuous ground fault). Whereas with the 6000XP, the problem persisted regardless of whether the (non-auto) N-PE bond is enabled. This seems to be a situation that benefits from the auto N-PE bond even though N-PE already is bonded through my service panel. Another pleasant surprise is that closed-loop BMS communication worked with LifePower4 batteries directly (after setting ASP to use Pylontech BMS protocol) via standard Ethernet cable. I was anticipating needing to get the LifePower4 Communication Hub for protocol compatibility but it worked without the hub.

According to Borick (have not tested it myself yet), once the ASP switches to bypass mode due to overload, manual action (via changing setting 01) is required to switch back to inverter output mode. The 6000XP does automatically switch back to inverter output, which is a nice feature that I rely upon. But since the ASP's output capacity is greater than the 6000XP's maximum bypass capacity (9kW), the greater output capacity makes up for the lack of automatic overload bypass switchback.

By the time I finished installation, it was late at night, so no PV generation yet. In the end, it's cheaper than the 6000XP, larger capacity, and fixed the EVSE ground fault issue for me. If it's as reliable as the 6000XP (which never exhibited any problem other than the EVSE ground fault), the pros would outweigh the cons of the difficult installation and not having the additional built-in breakers.
 
For the past few months I've been running an EG4 6000XP, which has been very reliable except for one problem that EG4 could not resolve (tendency to trip ground fault on my ClipperCreek EVSE when switching from grid bypass to inverter output). I've been following @42OhmsPA with his experience with ASF and the ASP. If not for the detailed info on the purchase experience with Alibaba and Borick being legitimate seller, I would have never ordered one (never bought anything from Alibaba before), nor would I have known that contacting Borick directly gets better price, nor would I have known to request DDP air freight. Thanks!

Borick was very responsive and took initiative to ask about my EVSE model/manual and the specific fault. To their credit they were forthright (expressed surprised that the problem occurred with the 6000XP, thought that the ASP's auto N-PE bond might help but weren't confident, let me know that I wouldn't be able to return the unit just because it doesn't resolve the problem with my EVSE). I decided to take the risk and order. From payment to delivery was 6 days, and from shipment to delivery was only one day (!).

The physical mounting was easier with the ASP because the two top mounting holes allowed the screws to be put in first and then the unit just could be hanged on the screws. The 6000XP's mounting bracket is slightly offset from the back of the unit, resulting in a little airgap behind the unit, which is a nice touch.

The ASP has built-in breaker for only AC input; the 6000XP's built-in PV cut-off switch and battery/gen/output breakers and neutral/ground bars are nice and tidy. But I think the worst part about the ASP is the difficulty of installing the AC input/output wires. Despite the manual stating that 6AWG wires are supported, it was much, much harder installing the AC input/output wires. The space for the wire diameter is smaller (challenging to insert even under ideal condition), the insertion points are near the back of the unit, the vertical space is tighter, making it really difficult with the stiffness of 6AWG wires. I ended up unscrewing the AC input/output board to get better angle for wire insertion, but even then it took much longer than expected. Even after the wires are inserted, forcing the board back to the original position was challenging (thought maybe the board would break).

The good news is that with the auto N-PE bond enabled, the ASP is able to switch between inverter output mode to grid bypass mode and back without tripping fault on my EVSE (if auto N-PE bonding is disabled, then the EVSE is in continuous ground fault). Whereas with the 6000XP, the problem persisted regardless of whether the (non-auto) N-PE bond is enabled. This seems to be a situation that benefits from the auto N-PE bond even though N-PE already is bonded through my service panel. Another pleasant surprise is that closed-loop BMS communication worked with LifePower4 batteries directly (after setting ASP to use Pylontech BMS protocol) via standard Ethernet cable. I was anticipating needing to get the LifePower4 Communication Hub for protocol compatibility but it worked without the hub.

According to Borick (have not tested it myself yet), once the ASP switches to bypass mode due to overload, manual action (via changing setting 01) is required to switch back to inverter output mode. The 6000XP does automatically switch back to inverter output, which is a nice feature that I rely upon. But since the ASP's output capacity is greater than the 6000XP's maximum bypass capacity (9kW), the greater output capacity makes up for the lack of automatic overload bypass switchback.

By the time I finished installation, it was late at night, so no PV generation yet. In the end, it's cheaper than the 6000XP, larger capacity, and fixed the EVSE ground fault issue for me. If it's as reliable as the 6000XP (which never exhibited any problem other than the EVSE ground fault), the pros would outweigh the cons of the difficult installation and not having the additional built-in breakers.
Wow! Appreciate the detailed review!
 
For the past few months I've been running an EG4 6000XP, which has been very reliable except for one problem that EG4 could not resolve (tendency to trip ground fault on my ClipperCreek EVSE when switching from grid bypass to inverter output). I've been following @42OhmsPA with his experience with ASF and the ASP. If not for the detailed info on the purchase experience with Alibaba and Borick being legitimate seller, I would have never ordered one (never bought anything from Alibaba before), nor would I have known that contacting Borick directly gets better price, nor would I have known to request DDP air freight. Thanks!

Borick was very responsive and took initiative to ask about my EVSE model/manual and the specific fault. To their credit they were forthright (expressed surprised that the problem occurred with the 6000XP, thought that the ASP's auto N-PE bond might help but weren't confident, let me know that I wouldn't be able to return the unit just because it doesn't resolve the problem with my EVSE). I decided to take the risk and order. From payment to delivery was 6 days, and from shipment to delivery was only one day (!).

The physical mounting was easier with the ASP because the two top mounting holes allowed the screws to be put in first and then the unit just could be hanged on the screws. The 6000XP's mounting bracket is slightly offset from the back of the unit, resulting in a little airgap behind the unit, which is a nice touch.

The ASP has built-in breaker for only AC input; the 6000XP's built-in PV cut-off switch and battery/gen/output breakers and neutral/ground bars are nice and tidy. But I think the worst part about the ASP is the difficulty of installing the AC input/output wires. Despite the manual stating that 6AWG wires are supported, it was much, much harder installing the AC input/output wires. The space for the wire diameter is smaller (challenging to insert even under ideal condition), the insertion points are near the back of the unit, the vertical space is tighter, making it really difficult with the stiffness of 6AWG wires. I ended up unscrewing the AC input/output board to get better angle for wire insertion, but even then it took much longer than expected. Even after the wires are inserted, forcing the board back to the original position was challenging (thought maybe the board would break).

The good news is that with the auto N-PE bond enabled, the ASP is able to switch between inverter output mode to grid bypass mode and back without tripping fault on my EVSE (if auto N-PE bonding is disabled, then the EVSE is in continuous ground fault). Whereas with the 6000XP, the problem persisted regardless of whether the (non-auto) N-PE bond is enabled. This seems to be a situation that benefits from the auto N-PE bond even though N-PE already is bonded through my service panel. Another pleasant surprise is that closed-loop BMS communication worked with LifePower4 batteries directly (after setting ASP to use Pylontech BMS protocol) via standard Ethernet cable. I was anticipating needing to get the LifePower4 Communication Hub for protocol compatibility but it worked without the hub.

According to Borick (have not tested it myself yet), once the ASP switches to bypass mode due to overload, manual action (via changing setting 01) is required to switch back to inverter output mode. The 6000XP does automatically switch back to inverter output, which is a nice feature that I rely upon. But since the ASP's output capacity is greater than the 6000XP's maximum bypass capacity (9kW), the greater output capacity makes up for the lack of automatic overload bypass switchback.

By the time I finished installation, it was late at night, so no PV generation yet. In the end, it's cheaper than the 6000XP, larger capacity, and fixed the EVSE ground fault issue for me. If it's as reliable as the 6000XP (which never exhibited any problem other than the EVSE ground fault), the pros would outweigh the cons of the difficult installation and not having the additional built-in breakers.
Do you have the alibaba link to this new found candy or is it a secret?

Thanks.
 
Is that a stitch? Or just a beauty mark? Haha
Just a beauty mark, that was a chunk of the wheel that ended up in my arm. (I don't run the guard on my grinder...)
I like the YES welders and products. One of the best bang for Bucks out there. Ive got a plasma cutter from them and a welding helmet.
Their welding helmet seems as good as my old miller helmet. Lot cheaper.
I've been eyeing up the plasma cutters.
I picked up one of their helmets, it wasn't the speedglass I've used in the past but it was really good for the price.
I think all diy should learn trades and welding is one of them.. Recycling and repurposing is key to diy and saving money. Good in all aspects.
Looks good.
Agreed. Thanks.
Most welders swapped over from heavy transformers to inverters many years ago. YES makes very affordable products. Perfect for DIY.

I still prefer my old Lincoln 175 transformer mig. 😁😂👀 i used a 120vac mig to rework a bunch of cars….. i preferred the 120 volt migs for real thin automotive not so great thin metals with 75/25 gas. Lot of tack stitch welding. Grinding.
I still kick myself for letting my brother get rid of an old Lincoln tombstone he had, I was pretty good with that.
Best to use descent quality wheels and don’t cut all kinds of material with them. Stick to one metal type. Soft metals will clog them up then when use with hard metals will pop. Grinding stones -wheels are bad for that too. Most industry will mark big grinding wheels for material types for permanent placement grinders there are signs. Always stand to side as wheel is spinning up with stone grinders The Grinders are a must for cleaning up welds and preparing joints to be welded.

With cut off disc you can’t hog anything if you want them to last….best to walk them not do complete cut through. There was old youtube video where guy got a lot less cuts by going through - hogging vs skim cutting it slowly. He literally got 2x-4x service life out of quality disc. Norton were good. Good grinding wheels - disc are a must.
Agreed and good advice. It was a fresh Norton (saint gobain) from my last zoro order, I stopped using the HF ones years ago.
This one was my own fault, I broke through the top layer, it grabbed and ran; I wasn't ready for it
Glad you are alright. Hogging a full cut makes them pop with to many forces. The guards help to contain the wheels a must. Harder to see and more cumbersome but there for a reason - protect us. Goggles and safety glasses - full shields ….gloves . Keep gloves away from anything rotating will grab them.
I wear the PPE when I'm grinding but hate the guards. Back in HS shop class a kid caught his glove in a bench grinder and ripped his fingernail clean off, I don't like gloves on the bench grinder because of that but realize now the tool guard gap was way to large (learned that in an OSHA class for work)
Small mini paint gun, air compressor, and good 2 part epoxy primer paint give best results. Tough paint. Wear good filter mask. More trouble but can get all of them cheap and once setup good for life too. Tractor paints with a hardener additive are good too. Painting gives it that finished new look. Powder coating is even better. 😁
Someday I'll get into real painting, rattle can ftw on this one...
Again glad you are okay. Looks good. Load test it. 😁🤪
Oh I plan to. 😁
 
For the past few months I've been running an EG4 6000XP, which has been very reliable except for one problem that EG4 could not resolve (tendency to trip ground fault on my ClipperCreek EVSE when switching from grid bypass to inverter output). I've been following @42OhmsPA with his experience with ASF and the ASP. If not for the detailed info on the purchase experience with Alibaba and Borick being legitimate seller, I would have never ordered one (never bought anything from Alibaba before), nor would I have known that contacting Borick directly gets better price, nor would I have known to request DDP air freight. Thanks!

Borick was very responsive and took initiative to ask about my EVSE model/manual and the specific fault. To their credit they were forthright (expressed surprised that the problem occurred with the 6000XP, thought that the ASP's auto N-PE bond might help but weren't confident, let me know that I wouldn't be able to return the unit just because it doesn't resolve the problem with my EVSE). I decided to take the risk and order. From payment to delivery was 6 days, and from shipment to delivery was only one day (!).

The physical mounting was easier with the ASP because the two top mounting holes allowed the screws to be put in first and then the unit just could be hanged on the screws. The 6000XP's mounting bracket is slightly offset from the back of the unit, resulting in a little airgap behind the unit, which is a nice touch.

The ASP has built-in breaker for only AC input; the 6000XP's built-in PV cut-off switch and battery/gen/output breakers and neutral/ground bars are nice and tidy. But I think the worst part about the ASP is the difficulty of installing the AC input/output wires. Despite the manual stating that 6AWG wires are supported, it was much, much harder installing the AC input/output wires. The space for the wire diameter is smaller (challenging to insert even under ideal condition), the insertion points are near the back of the unit, the vertical space is tighter, making it really difficult with the stiffness of 6AWG wires. I ended up unscrewing the AC input/output board to get better angle for wire insertion, but even then it took much longer than expected. Even after the wires are inserted, forcing the board back to the original position was challenging (thought maybe the board would break).

The good news is that with the auto N-PE bond enabled, the ASP is able to switch between inverter output mode to grid bypass mode and back without tripping fault on my EVSE (if auto N-PE bonding is disabled, then the EVSE is in continuous ground fault). Whereas with the 6000XP, the problem persisted regardless of whether the (non-auto) N-PE bond is enabled. This seems to be a situation that benefits from the auto N-PE bond even though N-PE already is bonded through my service panel. Another pleasant surprise is that closed-loop BMS communication worked with LifePower4 batteries directly (after setting ASP to use Pylontech BMS protocol) via standard Ethernet cable. I was anticipating needing to get the LifePower4 Communication Hub for protocol compatibility but it worked without the hub.

According to Borick (have not tested it myself yet), once the ASP switches to bypass mode due to overload, manual action (via changing setting 01) is required to switch back to inverter output mode. The 6000XP does automatically switch back to inverter output, which is a nice feature that I rely upon. But since the ASP's output capacity is greater than the 6000XP's maximum bypass capacity (9kW), the greater output capacity makes up for the lack of automatic overload bypass switchback.

By the time I finished installation, it was late at night, so no PV generation yet. In the end, it's cheaper than the 6000XP, larger capacity, and fixed the EVSE ground fault issue for me. If it's as reliable as the 6000XP (which never exhibited any problem other than the EVSE ground fault), the pros would outweigh the cons of the difficult installation and not having the additional built-in breakers.
Great comparison, thank you.
I'm glad all my info was helpful.

I completely agree the AC wiring is a bit of a pain. I found it much easier on the ASPs, probably because I already wired the ASF, I used a set of my long needle nose to grip the insulation and move them into place.

Hope your PV generation is excellent today.
 
I must say the little Yes Welder Flux-135 is impressive and the ASF didn't care it was powering it.
The first time I ran the welders off of my solar I walked around with a huge stupid grin all day - my wife thought I lost my marbles or something...
Great job on scoring the racking for free and re-build to suit your need. It may have been more work, but I bet the steel is thicker than a purchased item would have given you. Besides, every time you see it from now on, you will remember you built it yourself...and then you will remember the piece of disc stuck in your arm too! :ROFLMAO:

There are some quality 'direct to metal' paints - I've been meaning to try some out.
 
Where things get interesting is the SPI-10K-U is offered by many sellers under many different names.
So many re-lables...

SRNE - original manufacture
SunGold (blue varient)
PowMr (orange/grey varient)
Socreat (white)
No label (plain white on ebay)
Anenji (white with blue lettering)
EaSun (white with blue lettering)
Y&H (white with generic lettering)

Thankfully we can purchase from the original manufacture
 
Thanks, I checked the PV generation at different times today. Earlier in the morning, the ASP generated about the same power as did the 6000XP, maybe a bit less. But early afternoon at peak daylight, the ASP generated about 10% higher than the 6000XP typically did. But today it was both sunny and with slight clouds, and the clouds might have accounted for the higher PV generation. More observations are needed to tell if there really is a difference, but for now the ASP PV generation seems to be at least in the same ballpark as 6000XP.

Today I ended up unintentionally testing the overload bypass (running large loads and then a vacuum cleaner was turned on, pushing one leg to 5.3-5.5 kW for a while). I heard warning beeps and a relay click, but power was not interrupted. A few minutes later I decided to double check whether it's still running on inverter output or in bypass, and the unit was in bypass mode. Going by what Borick told me, I went to setting 01, expecting that I'll have to change its value back to SBU to revert to inverter output mode. I found that setting 01 still was in SBU (didn't change), even though the displayed showed bypass mode from grid. While looking at setting 01 and wondering how to force the unit back to inverter output, a relay clicked again, the fan speed increased, and the unit switched back to inverter output. So contrary to what Borick indicated, the ASP does seem to automatically switch back from bypass mode to inverter output mode after overload has stopped, which is great. But I can't find any information in the manual about this nor how/when the inverter decides to switch back to inverter output mode. I'll have to ask Borick about this.

The ASP's fan noise has less high-frequency whine than that of the 6000XP. I find the ASP's fan noise preferable and less annoying. It is amazing how quickly the lower-cost off-grid inverters have improved. I went with the 6000XP just a few months ago because it was The One (sorry, I meant, the one) for the price segment. And really it did work well except for the EVSE issue. I wouldn't say that the ASP has surpassed the 6000XP (which still has some areas stronger than the ASP), but the ASP is offering some real advantages at a lower price point.

@D71 There is no secret link. I emailed info@boricksolar.com and requested a price quote for SRNE ASP48100U200-H to my ZIP code. If you want them to handle all the customs fees and logistics, specify DDP air freight. If you want the Wi-Fi module (using Solarman), specify that too. The quote was lower than what Borick listed on Alibaba. You will need an Alibaba account to receive and pay for the invoice; Alibaba accepts PayPal and credit cards but will add 3% fee.
 
The first time I ran the welders off of my solar I walked around with a huge stupid grin all day - my wife thought I lost my marbles or something...
I had to get the tractor out this weekend, but noticed my front tires were low, so I drove up to my shed where my air compressor is. I had recently wired the shed to run off the inverter, so I was curious as to whether it could handle the surge/load. Granted, the compressor is a 6 gallon pancake variety, but it's still a decent load.

Plugged it in, and turned it on with no problems. I think it was pulling about 1.2KW, but it ran about ten minutes until I turned it off. Ran my Metabo miter saw last weekend with no issues, either. Pretty geeked about that.
 
Just a beauty mark, that was a chunk of the wheel that ended up in my arm. (I don't run the guard on my grinder...)

I've been eyeing up the plasma cutters.
I picked up one of their helmets, it wasn't the speedglass I've used in the past but it was really good for the price.

Agreed. Thanks.

I still kick myself for letting my brother get rid of an old Lincoln tombstone he had, I was pretty good with that.

Agreed and good advice. It was a fresh Norton (saint gobain) from my last zoro order, I stopped using the HF ones years ago.
This one was my own fault, I broke through the top layer, it grabbed and ran; I wasn't ready for it

I wear the PPE when I'm grinding but hate the guards. Back in HS shop class a kid caught his glove in a bench grinder and ripped his fingernail clean off, I don't like gloves on the bench grinder because of that but realize now the tool guard gap was way to large (learned that in an OSHA class for work)

Someday I'll get into real painting, rattle can ftw on this one...

Oh I plan to. 😁
Well, any initial testing news?

Enquiring (nosey) minds need to know..
 

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